How to make a panel house yourself. How to build a panel house with your own hands

New technologies are helping to solve the housing problem that is acutely facing the population. One of them is the technology of frame-panel construction. It is possible to build a frame-panel house in a short time and cheaper than houses made of other materials - bricks, blocks.

Features, pros and cons of wooden construction

Houses based on the construction of a frame and the installation of insulated panels have become popular for a long time. Over the course of four centuries, technology has been improved; natural materials have been replaced by more modern, synthetic ones that are not subject to rotting or deterioration. In Finland and Canada, the advantages of frame-panel houses have long been appreciated, and in our country the spread of such buildings is proceeding quite quickly.

How does construction happen?

Construction begins with soil testing. This is necessary in order to choose the right foundation. It is best if the soil consists of a sand-stone mixture. A house built on such a site practically does not shrink, and a simple foundation is suitable for it. It can be columnar, piled or jagged, not buried.

If the soil is clayey or fine sandstone, the foundation must be made more reliable - preferably a strip one, backed with a sand cushion and installed reinforcement.

After the foundation has been made and some time has passed for settling, the floor or walls can be erected. What you will build first is up to you. The floor can be made of wood or cast.

We build a frame from dry timber, taking a step of no more than 1 meter. We strengthen the corners, install vertical posts, and horizontal spacers between them. We strengthen the entire structure with slopes. Mark in advance the place in the frame where the windows and doors will be, and go around these places.

We fasten all the beams together with a screwdriver using self-tapping screws. Use metal corners and plates, which will make the structure more reliable.

The frame is installed on a frame, which is a beam or board fixed to the foundation using anchor bolts. Bolts must be installed when pouring the foundation.

Between the foundation and the piping it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer - at least roofing felt.

After the wall frame is ready, we make the top frame, connecting all the walls into a single structure. And we begin to create the roof frame. The roof frame is made based on the type of roof (single, gable, gable) and the type of rafter system.

The panels are a structure made of OSB boards, between which there is insulation, a vapor barrier, and a waterproofing material. You can make such slabs yourself using OSB boards, insulation materials and timber from which the slab walls are made. The beam also provides ventilation to the house.

If you want to find out how much it costs to build a panel house, read ours.

Advantages of wooden construction

Frame panel house with brick finishing

You will find reviews from real home owners.

Disadvantages of frame frames that are not talked about...

Any construction can have its drawbacks, and frame-panel houses are no exception. Brick houses are expensive, block houses are expensive to operate and build. What are the disadvantages of panel houses?

  1. Failure to comply with technology. Unfortunately, the biggest disadvantage of building frame houses is the widespread non-compliance with construction technology. In pursuit of profit, companies simply skip some stages of construction. I have seen houses in which the frame was installed without strapping - directly on the foundation, without insulation - as a result of which the wood began to rot after a couple of seasons. Also, developers often do not pay attention to the ventilation of the walls, which leads to the creation of a steamy effect in the house. The house becomes like a thermos in which there is no air movement. It’s hard to breathe in such a house; it’s too stuffy in the summer. In addition, condensation settles on the walls and insulation, causing destruction of the walls from the inside. Fungus and mold appear. To save money, wet boards or timber are used, which begin to twist, losing moisture, after the frame is erected. If the interior decoration has already been done, there are cracks along the walls.
  2. The second disadvantage is the short lifespan of a house compared to a brick or block one. Of course, such houses, if built using all technologies, can last 100 years, but the service life of thermal insulation is on average 30 years. And after this period the house rapidly loses quality.

Important: the quality of a house also depends on environmental conditions, and they must be taken into account during construction. If your area experiences heavy snowfall, the roof should be sharper and more reinforced; If there is frequent rain 0, pay attention to additional protection of the walls and roof.

How to decide on a project

So, you are already ready to buy or build a frame panel house, and the first thing you need to start with is choosing a project. Of course, I would like to say that you can choose any project to your taste, but the reality is that initially we determine how much money we can allocate for construction or how much money the bank will give us on credit. You can calculate the cost of your panel house by reading our article. Based on the amount received, we will select the project. If the amount is very small, pay attention to standard economy class projects.

Important: when choosing a house project, pay attention to the neighboring houses. Your frame panel house will look much better if it harmonizes with the already built houses in the neighborhood.

Economy class panel houses are most often small one-story houses that can accommodate 2-4 people. Despite the fact that such houses are considered simple and inexpensive, engineers are trying to make them more diverse, offering options with verandas, small balconies and other architectural solutions.

What should you pay attention to when choosing a panel house project?

  1. Number of future residents and rooms. Everyone should be comfortable, so it would be ideal to have one room per person.
  2. If the house is two-story, it is better to have two separate bathrooms. node.
  3. If you often have guests, think about a guest room.
  4. Do you need a veranda, garage, bathhouse or other extension?
  5. How will the house be heated? Will it be convenient to lay pipes to the well? Where will the septic tank be located in the yard?

When choosing a project, it is better to consult with professional architects, who will offer the ideal solution just for you.

Since prices for home installation are rising, it is much more profitable to do the installation yourself. This is especially true for buildings such as prefabricated panel houses. They are suitable for both temporary seasonal residence and permanent residence. Prefabricated frame buildings have reached the peak of their popularity today. The main reason for this is the relatively low cost and ease of self-construction of a frame-panel building. At the same time, a building can be built in 10 weeks.

Start of construction: preparation

So, before you start building a frame-panel cottage, you must correlate three things:

  1. Real construction conditions.
  2. Your preferences.
  3. Financial stock.

Real construction conditions include the features of the site where construction will take place, climate features, location of the sun and shade, abundance of precipitation or constantly blowing wind, and other objective data that will help determine the future home.

The preferences of the future owner include the size of the frame-panel building, the number of storeys, the presence of a veranda, balcony, type of roof, preferences in the use of material options, and how quickly you want to build.

Having a certain financial amount allows you to determine the higher priority qualities of the house, and less priority ones, which can be changed or even preserved. For example, the owner prefers a two-story mansion, but there is not enough money, and then it is more rational to change the full second floor into a residential attic.

When you have more or less decided on your future frame-panel house, it is advisable to draw up a detailed plan. It must include an external description of the building with a sketch, an internal description, as well as a plan of communications and engineering systems (plan of plumbing, electrical wiring, ventilation system, etc.).

If you really want to do everything wisely, it is better to come to the site with an architect and draw up a plan on the spot. Then the design will be tied to the environment, and the room itself will be much more comfortable. For example, it is better to make a bedroom on the north side of the site, then you will be much more comfortable sleeping, and a large, bright living room in the south. It is good to place children's rooms with windows facing west or east, and preferably on the leeward side. Taking into account all these factors, you can make your panel house very cozy and comfortable.

In addition, the plan must indicate all dimensions, internal partitions, passages, doors, windows, built-in niches and more.

Don't forget to also check the soil of the site and find out which foundation will suit your project. The greater the load on the foundation, the more thoroughly the foundation is made.

First steps at a construction site

Construction always begins with markings. At this point, it is already necessary to decide in which place on the site your frame panel house will be located.

Foundation

It is necessary to make markings for the future foundation using rope and pegs. To build formwork, you need to dig a trench along marked lines (using a small excavator), and use a board or other material to make walls that need to be lined with film.

The film will protect the cement mortar from pouring into the cracks between the formwork boards. In order for the boards to be securely fixed, it is necessary to place spacers between the walls of the formwork. When everything is ready, pour the solution and drown the reinforcement or mesh in it - this will allow you to make a more rigid foundation. We also heat the anchor bolts, on which we will install the harness after some time.

Harness

After the cement has hardened, you can make the bottom trim. We use roofing felt (or other waterproofing material), which we lay on the surface of the foundation. The surface must be flat, the geometry must be checked - differences are no more than 1 cm.

We lay the harness and fix it to the anchor bolts. Pays special attention to connections in corners. There are several clutch options; the diagrams show the most popular ones. All of them can be done with your own hands using an electric saw.

Frame

Panel-frame houses have a base - a frame. It is a wooden frame made of timber with a pitch of about 100 cm. The house is assembled with your own hands from the corners, the corner posts are securely attached to the frame. We skip the step between the racks, bypassing the door or window openings. The places of such openings should be additionally reinforced with crossbars.

Frame - the basis of a panel house

For a more rigid structure, we use horizontal jumpers between the vertical posts and struts. It is advisable to install the braces yourself, at least in the corners.

When the wall frame is erected, we move on to the roof frame. To do this, we make a rafter system and sheathing. Simplicity is one of the advantages of frame houses.

Walls of future construction

After completing the installation of the frame, you can begin to form the actual walls. A wall in a frame house is a multilayer structure consisting of specific films, insulation and OSB-3 in the form of panels that cover the entire structure.

Insulation

The formation of a wall begins with insulation. In terms of insulation of a frame house, the following materials can be used:

  • mineral wool
  • glass wool
  • ecowool
  • Styrofoam
  • expanded polystyrene
  • natural insulation (straw, shavings, etc.)

Insulation with mineral wool is considered the most successful solution. Mineral wool is presented in the form of mats or rolls; everyone chooses the type that is more convenient for him to lay with his own hands. Most often these are mats that are installed from the bottom up.

Important: any insulation in the form of cotton wool must be well secured, since over time it cakes and cracks appear. Use glue or simply nail the insulation.

If the insulation is presented in the form of rolls, its end is fixed at the very top of the wall and the roll is unwound downwards, after which it is cut along the lower level of the wall. We do it ourselves to save money. The width of the insulation should be equal to the pitch between the risers, so even at the stage of constructing the frame, decide on the type of insulation. The thickness of the insulation is equal to the thickness of the timber used in construction.

If we talk about polystyrene foam, its strengths are price and moisture resistance, so polystyrene foam is used for additional external insulation. It is easily installed on a mounting rail with your own hands, which is nailed to the bottom of the frame and serves as the basis for the insulation boards. However, polystyrene foam burns quite well, which is its disadvantage when used for wooden frame houses. However, it is still possible to build a house with foam plastic.

Glass wool is rarely used, since working with it requires special care and equipment, and its biggest advantage is that mice, which are a real scourge of wooden frame houses, do not like it.

You can read about the service life of a frame house.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing the wall is the most important step. Its role is played by either modern membranes or film. Waterproofing is laid directly from the insulation side and does not allow moisture from the outside to get into the wall.

During installation, the waterproofing material must be free of cracks so that moisture does not have the opportunity to get to the insulation. Many types of insulation, especially wool, do not tolerate moisture and lose their thermal characteristics literally in one rainy season. Therefore, we overlap the waterproofing film by 25-20 cm, and glue the film with special tape, connecting the two films into one.

Vapor barrier

No matter how hard we try to protect the insulation from moisture, sometimes it cannot be avoided. Since the dew point is located in the center of the wall, steam condensate often forms on the insulation. Some of the moisture enters the wall during installation. Therefore, such excess moisture must be removed somewhere. Diffuse vapor barrier membranes help solve this problem.

Membranes are modern films that prevent moisture from entering the wall, but at the same time remove moisture from the wall to the outside. Thus, the insulation always remains dry and lasts much longer.

You will find detailed information about the technology of building a frame house.

Panels for forming walls

When the filling of the wall is ready, the wall is covered on both sides with OSB sheets. They actually form the wall, and in addition, external and internal decoration can be easily attached to the panels. Interior finishing usually requires additional installation of plasterboard boards.

Boards should be chosen only those that have a certificate, since in our market there have been increasing cases of poisoning of residents by formaldehyde, which is contained in the glue of this board of Chinese origin. During operation, poisons are gradually released and enter the human body, where they accumulate and cause various diseases. Therefore, pay attention to European manufacturers with safety certificates.

To fix OSB boards, use a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. Read why people choose frame houses today.

It is quite possible to build a panel house with your own hands, but you should remember that all steps must be followed and completed in stages. Panel construction does not take much time, since the frame is assembled from ready-made panels (SIP panels), into which windows and doors are already built, and involves the following steps.

The first thing you should think about is a reliable and solid foundation. A solid foundation is not required for panel construction; a regular pile foundation will do. Under the piles you need to mark places at intervals of 1 meter and you can start digging a trench. A trench is dug along the entire perimeter of the future house, as well as where load-bearing elements are supposed to be placed. After applying the markings, wells are made and piles are installed - any anti-corrosion pipes. The entire space near the pipes is filled with sand and compacted, and a solution based on cement and crushed stone is poured into the pipes themselves.

Also, panel houses can be built on the basis of a reinforced concrete foundation (slab platform). In this case, first a layer of sand and crushed stone is poured, then a thin layer of concrete is added, and only then reinforcement is made with rods. Next, the formwork is attached and the entire foundation is filled with cement.

As an option, you can consider a columnar or shallow strip foundation. In any case, its type and parameters depend on the presence of groundwater and its level, the soil itself and its resistance to temperature changes, and the expected total weight of the house.

The panels are assembled together quite simply, you just need to decide on the fastening methods; tongue-and-groove connections and cutting are considered one of the most reliable; staples and screws are also used. In addition, seams and joints are additionally secured with special plates, corners and connectors. Such fastenings can be secured with nails, anchors or bolts. The walls are mounted on a flat, level surface (to avoid shifts and distortions), and then installed in finished form. At this stage, it is very important to take into account the future height of the ceiling - a wall height above 2.5 m would be a good choice. If you take a smaller distance, then there is a high probability that after all the decorative and finishing work, the ceiling will seem very low and create a feeling of pressure.

Before installing the joists on the floor, it is better to lay some insulating material such as roofing felt. After the logs are installed, the floor is covered with prepared rough unedged boards, and additional timber is attached along the entire perimeter of the house - it will serve as the basis for the future floor covering. To prevent premature damage to the front part of the floor, you can turn the boards over to the reverse side during construction - this way you will preserve their presentation, and to avoid shifts, grab them a little with nails. After completing the main rough work, the floor can be covered with finishing boards, which it is advisable to pre-treat with special antiseptic solutions that prevent mold, mildew and rot.

After installing the frame, the walls must be sheathed. For example, this can be done inside with OSV slabs - this material does an excellent job of supporting walls and helps avoid the use of additional beams in the structure. It is necessary to start the sheathing from the corner and move towards the center; the sheathing boards are often fastened with screws. You can cover the inside of the house with either plasterboard or wooden clapboard - both will look aesthetically pleasing and quite organic.

For exterior wall cladding, you can use siding or block house, finishing plaster and facade tiles. To prevent the dew point from shifting towards the residential premises after completion of work, it is necessary to correctly calculate its shift, otherwise the appearance of condensation and, as a consequence, mold and mildew in the house will be inevitable.

If the construction is carried out with your own hands, then it would be better to limit the number of roof slopes to a maximum of two. The rafters can be attached directly to the frame of the house itself, and if additional insulation of the attic is planned, then they will need to be placed in increments whose width will correspond to the thickness of the insulation. It is better to choose the standard thickness of the beams for the rafters: 150x50 or 70 mm. After this, the next layers will be:

– vapor barrier layer;

– counter-lattice and sheathing;

– waterproofing layer;

– directly roofing material.

In particular, thanks to the counter-lattice, free air circulation is ensured between the lathing and the rafters. As a roofing material, you can choose bitumen shingles, slate or any other material to your taste.

For insulation, the use of basalt or mineral slabs, as well as expanded polystyrene, is very popular. In the walls, insulation is laid from the inside of the house between the vertical beams and covered with a vapor barrier layer, and then with OSV boards or plasterboard (which is sometimes considered as a finished wall covering). You can use several options at once - first lay mineral wool, and lay expanded polystyrene on top of it. All cracks are sealed with mounting foam to avoid heat loss.

Roof insulation occurs in almost the same way - thermal insulation material is laid between the rafters or ceilings and covered with the selected vapor barrier material.

Separately, it should be noted that for high-quality insulation it is necessary to give preference to slabs, since this form of laying insulation materials is quite rigid and less susceptible to deformation.

It is not recommended to use homemade materials and polyethylene films for vapor barrier; it would be better to spend a little money and purchase a special factory-made vapor barrier film - it has a slightly different structure and more layers. It is also necessary to remember that vapor barrier is carried out only on the inside of the panel house and only on the insulating layer.

If you plan to work with the basement space, then you will need to worry about building a blind area, which will later become the basis for the walls of the basement. The dimensions of the base will depend on the length of the piles laid when pouring the foundation; sometimes this distance can be only 30-40 cm.

To build a blind area, the surface ball of soil is removed within 25 cm. The width of the blind area is planned independently, the only condition is that it covers all the piles that stand at the edges. Formwork is installed outside and inside - outside it is assembled from boards, inside its role can be played by previously dug earth.

At the very bottom of the resulting ditch, small crushed stone is laid out, which is filled with hot bitumen. The waterproofing layer is ready. You can pour cement mortar on top of it - the same one that was used to fill the foundation.

After 12-15 days, you can begin building the brick base itself. When laying walls, we must not forget about ventilation holes with a diameter of 15x15 cm - after finishing the work, it will be necessary to install a mesh or fine metal grate in them.

Since the windows are already pre-installed into the panel panels, all you have to do is choose the right double-glazed windows. And if you plan to use a frame-panel house for permanent residence, then it would be better to choose reliable and durable triple-glazed windows with additional sealing.

External decorative finishing of the walls of a panel house can be done with lining, unusual siding or exclusive sandwich panels. Vinyl decorative plasterboard is suitable for interior decoration. Important - all finishing work should be carried out after completion of the main processes, in particular, after laying and fastening insulation, hydro- and vapor barrier materials.

Special attention should be paid to electrical wiring. If it is planned to be laid openly, then this issue can be addressed after the completion of construction work, but if it is closed, then the laying of such communications should be thought out already at the stage of arranging the foundation of the house. Let us note, however, that skillfully laid open electrical wiring (possibly in boxes) will always cost less and be a safer option.

What is useful for panel construction?

Before starting work, it would be better to make a rough list of materials and tools that you will use during the construction of the house. It might look like this:

– edged and unedged boards;

– concrete mixer;

– lining/siding/other finishing material for external walls;

– slate/tile/ondulin/other roofing material;

– panel panels;

– mineral/basalt wool or polystyrene foam or any other insulation;

– waterproofing materials;

– antiseptic solutions;

– nails, screws, channel, pipes, angles;

– jigsaw and circular saw;

- building level;

– pliers, screwdriver, hammer, nail puller, hacksaw, axe;

- roulette.

Of course, the list can be lengthened, modified and adjusted to your tastes and needs.

For a little more information about how to build a panel house, watch the video.

Starting the story about the experience of building a frame-panel house with my own hands, I would immediately like to warn that this is not an ode of laudatory or a story about a fun pastime, but real work on the mistakes that I made, as experience shows, at almost all stages of construction.

How to build a frame-panel house inexpensively, the main mistakes

The task before the start of construction was quite simple: to build a frame-panel house inexpensively, at the lowest cost and at the highest pace. For construction, a project with a gable roof of 8x8 meters was chosen. Based on it, I drew my project - simply adding 1 more floor.

The foundation was poured in early September, a simple strip foundation 0.4 meters wide, buried 0.4 meters. A cushion of sand and crushed stone is poured under the foundation.

The frame of the building should be constructed from pine beams and boards. The thickness of the walls was planned to be 200 mm. The house itself was planned for living from spring to winter, but with the possibility of further equipment for living all year round.

Communications were planned to be connected as needed, electricity was connected to the site immediately, sewerage and water supply a little later.

It would seem that this is all, but, looking at the other frame-panel houses built in the village, I did not want to look typical and standard, so the decision was made to increase the structure by one floor.

To reduce the cost of work, a schedule and approximate list of operations were drawn up, regarding logistics and the work itself. And although it is said too arrogantly, the plan was almost perfect. Ideal, until I encountered the reality of problems.

The first mistake made in the debut was completely ignoring the option of purchasing a ready-made house kit for self-assembly. My arguments that you can order the material yourself, it’s cheaper to negotiate at a sawmill, people also make frame houses, turned out to be more significant than common sense. Then, during the work process, due to non-standard lengths and non-grade material, the material actually unraveled at the local sawmill and could have deviations in thickness of up to 1 cm, and this was for boards 25 mm thick. In addition, some of the boards were never put into use because they had waves when disbanded.

The second surprise was that the sawmill had restrictions on the length of logs of 6 meters, that is, 5.8 meters can be cut, but 8 meters cannot be cut.

The third mistake was logistics, it was lame according to all the rules, then there is no car, then it takes a long detour, then you definitely need to take the full quota, but what if you only need 16 m3 for a 72 m3 truck?

The main stages of work on the construction of a frame-panel house

A strip foundation was chosen for the construction of the house; in principle, during construction, a strip foundation buried 40-50 centimeters will fully withstand the load from the house. I made a cushion under the base from crushed stone and sand; for a more durable base, I also poured crushed stone with a liquid solution of 1 part cement to 10 parts sand. True, it turned out to be in vain, I just wasted material.

The foundation was poured at the end of August - beginning of September, so by the first frost the formwork had already been removed. In advance, pipes were inserted under the foundation to bring water supply and sewerage into the house.

The work went quickly and in the euphoria they somehow forgot about installing the studs in the foundation; later, when they were laying the first crown, they had to drill and install the studs with a hammer drill, which delayed the schedule by two days.

The waterproofing under the wooden base was made from ordinary roofing material. The material is beautiful, unpretentious and does not require special processing.

The rush and euphoria when pouring the foundation also emerged in the form of uneven surfaces. I had to level it to almost perfect condition with concrete mortar.

The first crown was attached to studs, although later I realized that it was possible to use anchor bolts, easier and faster. The construction of the frame began by setting up the corners - here you can see that two 200x50 mm boards were placed on the corner, and secured with diagonal boards for stability.

We spent three days fiddling with the corners, first checking the vertical, then another day measuring the diagonals of the house. In the future, such thoroughness and painstaking work allowed us to avoid many mistakes.

We temporarily reinforced the frame with diagonal boards from the inside, it’s easier, you don’t need to jump inside the foundation, besides, the material that was brought in was stored outside the frame. Speaking of materials and storage methods. The first batch of material was purchased in the fall, after the foundation had been poured and the decision was made to store the boards and timber on. In the spring, with the start of construction, I had to move all the boards again to free up the foundation, so I advise you to immediately determine a place for storage, so as not to carry it around the site.

After installing the corners, we went to attach the vertical posts of the frame.

It is immediately necessary to make a reservation that when fastening the racks it is necessary to take into account the size of the windows, in my case I was lucky, the windows, like the doors, turned out to be the right size and fell into place without problems, but if I had missed by 2-3 centimeters, I would have had to order windows in a new way.

Having installed the racks, I dulled the timber for the floor. And here my arrogance surfaced: having ordered a ready-made kit, I wouldn’t have to be tricky about arranging the joints of the beams. Considering that my beams were 6 meters long, I had to make splices, unfortunately, here I had to think about saving more than usual, it was a pity, of course, because it turns out that I overpaid for the material and, moreover, punished myself.

It was decided to make the outer sheathing diagonal, in addition to the fact that the frame itself receives additional rigidity, and the desire to do it differently from others aroused undoubted interest among other construction teams, so I had to be distracted by master classes on diagonal sheathing.

Three weeks later the structure looked like this:

Things went faster when “for a couple of days” we managed to persuade a competing crew to borrow scaffolding, a wonderful thing, light and reliable, the most important thing is that the sheathing and the entire second floor were installed in 5 days.

The erection of the roof, the installation of the rafters and their fastening were the result of a small act of industrial espionage. After spending a day carefully observing the neighboring area, simulating concentrated work at their own site, all the intricacies of the technology were clarified - the assembly of the rafters was carried out on the ground, according to one template. The rafters were bolted together and reinforced with a crossbar (such a jumper at the top parallel to the floor of the attic).

For a more rigid connection with the beams, the junctions of the rafters and beams were additionally reinforced with a metal plate on self-tapping screws on both sides.

For peace of mind, additional supports were installed under the rafters.

The insulation of the walls was carried out by constructing a pie - the outer layer of insulation is 100 mm polystyrene foam with a density of 30, mineral wool is attached to it from the inside.

Polystyrene foam is glued together with mounting adhesive or foam, but cotton wool requires special treatment. The process of attaching the cotton wool itself looks like this - a layer of cotton wool is placed on the foam plastic and carefully stapled along the sides to the posts with a light tension. The wool itself is laid from bottom to top in two layers, so that the joints overlap.

The floor of the first floor was arranged in a similar way, except that the cotton wool was not stapled, it was simply laid on top.

The final step for this year of construction was covering the frame with siding and laying metal tiles.

Having hoisted the ridge on the roof as a banner of victory, the main construction work of the spring-summer season was completed. Internal work ahead - laying communications, and final finishing.

Is it worth building a frame-panel house yourself?

The question of whether it is worth building a frame-panel house myself has not left me since the installation of the first peg to mark the foundation. Actually, the question of whether or not to build faded into the background, the main violin was played by the dilemma of how to build a frame-panel house with your own hands inexpensively, without high costs. After all, in fact, construction technology can be learned by watching a training video or reading an article on the website. And the option of buying materials yourself seemed much cheaper. Today, having calculated all the construction costs, I can say that in terms of the cost of building materials and labor costs, the construction of my house is quite comparable in price to that of a specialized company, albeit of a slightly smaller size - 6x8 with an attic.

To create a full-fledged image of a summer cottage, you need to build a house that you will happily come to on weekends in the summer to take a break from the endless bustle of the city. However, many summer residents face a problem - construction time. This often takes from 4 to 6 months, which does not suit everyone. In this case, the construction of a turnkey frame-panel house is an excellent solution. In our company you can order this service on favorable terms. Over many years on the market, we have developed inexpensive projects of frame-panel houses that can be purchased and installed on your site in the shortest possible time.

Construction of frame-panel houses

In accordance with the project, the frame of such a house is created from boards with a minimum cross-section of 50×100 cm. At the bottom, along the entire perimeter of the building, a crown of timber is installed, the minimum cross-section of which is 150×150 cm, then vertical posts (50×100 cm) are installed. Subsequently, during construction, floor joists will be laid on the lower crown, and ceiling joists - on the upper one.

Advantages of frame-panel houses

Price. In our catalog, prices for frame-panel houses are relatively low, the reason is the fact that the panels and frame structural elements are manufactured in our own production. Thus, due to the low cost of our own materials, but with their high quality, we provide relatively inexpensive turnkey construction of frame-panel houses according to our projects.

High speed of construction. Manufacturing and construction take place in just a few days thanks to the simplicity of the technology and the availability of our own projects of frame-panel houses. Foundations are often created within a few hours and a building can be erected on them almost immediately. Due to the fact that all parts are manufactured by one manufacturer at the factory, they fit perfectly together, which increases the speed of installation.

Landscape conservation. When building the foundation of a frame-panel house, which you can buy from our company, large-scale excavation work is not required. Installation is also not accompanied by the formation of large amounts of debris and waste after construction.

High quality. All buildings are designed by professional architects who carry out many calculations to ensure the required strength and rigidity of the structure. When constructing frame-panel houses, only high-quality lumber, insulation, moisture and vapor protection, and modern roofing materials are used.

Environmental friendliness of the project. When constructing a house, environmentally friendly building materials are used that have appropriate certificates.

Durability. If you properly care for a frame-panel house, it will delight you for 50-80 years. Our company has extensive experience in constructing such buildings. Specially designed structures, high-quality protective materials, and the work of professional builders are the guarantee that a beautiful and durable house will stand on your site.



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