With the arrival of spring, the time comes for pruning the green inhabitants of our gardens: we need to thin out their crowns and shorten the branches. However, gardeners often go to extremes and trim during this period even those plants with pruning that are better to wait until summer or autumn, for example early flowering shrubs. Therefore, pruning must be approached competently.
You can learn the basic rules of pruning from the article Pruning trees and shrubs, but ornamental trees and shrubs have certain specific care.
When pruning ornamental trees, we, first of all, We strive to give their crowns the appropriate shape and maintain it longer . We trim plants in hedges so that the foliage is dense and there are no holes in the crowns. Thanks to the regular use of pruning shears, we achieve especially rich harvests from fruit trees and berry bushes. Ornamental shrubs. And also curly and container plants cut first for lush flowering. If the plant has decorative bark, then with the help of pruning you can once again emphasize the beauty of young shoots, because over time the color of the bark of old branches becomes faded.
In addition, pruning is intended maintain the natural shape of the crown of the green inhabitants of the garden and regulate their size . But in any case, it is necessary to clearly understand that the bush is too large or already mature tree even after very heavy pruning it will not turn into an attractive dwarf plant! And, of course, do not forget that regular – especially spring pruning plants promotes more intensive emergence of new shoots.
The use of a saw and pruning shears helps to rejuvenate plants; thanks to pruning, they can regain lost strength. In rare cases, trees and shrubs need to be pruned radically, cutting out all the stems at the very base. This method is applicable, but with good shoot formation for hazel or forsythia bushes. For most plants, anti-aging pruning is carried out in stages.
It should be clarified! Annual growth - this is last year's growth with numerous vegetative and generative buds. The bark may be lighter than other shoots or radically different in color(for example, Derena white).
The cut must be made at an angle so that water does not stagnate on its plane, causing rotting of the wood. In addition, the distance between the cut and the bud located below is important; there is a danger that it will dry out or freeze. If, on the contrary, you retreat too far from it, a stump forms, where infection can quickly penetrate.
Pruning of ornamental trees.
Some representatives of the green kingdom become more and more picturesque over the years, so they do not need crown correction (for example, magnolia and palmate maple). But to many ornamental trees and shrubs, so that they bloom or their crowns do not lose their shape, require periodic pruning.
Decorative apple tree, for example every 2-3 years only needs regulatory pruning . At the same time, old, damaged branches that thicken the crown are removed. Regular heavy pruning is necessary only for those trees and shrubs that must preserve a certain form CZK The same applies to plants whose flowers appear on young, newly formed shoots, for example, three-lobed almonds. Very strong pruning after flowering contributes to the fact that this year they have numerous shoots with flower buds. Many people can withstand such a radical haircut deciduous trees: white acacia Umbraculifera and goat willow Pendula , after pruning, they quickly become overgrown with new shoots emerging from the buds on the remaining part of the pruned branch.
For small gardens, trees with a spherical crown that can withstand heavy pruning are suitable, for example catalpa bignonia. Nana . Regular pruning helps control the tree's growth. Such trees even tolerate heavy pruning, almost to the base of the skeletal branches.
Trees with a spherical crown.
Thanks to the dense crown, harmonious spherical and bright green foliage of Robinia pseudoacacia or white acacia (Robinia pseudoacacia) Umbraculifera ideal for planting in small garden: this tree withstands even very heavy pruning extremely well; its crown can be reduced to any size without losing its presentability.
Without pruning, the diameter of the spherical crown of pseudoacacia Umbraculifera over time can reach 4-5 m. This can be prevented if every 2-3 years completely trim all branches almost to the base, leaving only short stumps . Best time For such pruning, a frost-free day is in early March. Slow growing species, e.g. Ginkgo biloba Mariken pruning is necessary only many years after planting, and in this case, you can limit yourself to only weak correction of the crown. Liquidambar resiniferous Gum Ball It is also distinguished by a beautiful spherical crown, which, as a rule, does not need pruning.
Light pruning of white locust can be done at any time of the year . But it's better in early spring. Then the young shoots will quickly hide the unsightly places in the crown that appeared after pruning.
Also trimmed:
- common ash Fraxinus excelsior,
- white acacia Umbraculifera,
- catalpa bignoniiformes Nana.
Standard bushes are pruned according to the same principle. Three-lobed almonds with delicate pink, like airy flowers looks incredibly elegant. For this plant annual heavy pruning is advisable . If immediately after flowering the branches almonds shorten the three-lobed one to 10 cm, then next year it is guaranteed to have long, lush flowering branches.
In early spring, trim the standard Syrian hibiscus: depending on the size of the crown you want to see, the stems can be shortened, leaving only 2-3 buds. The upper kidney should be directed outward.
Willow wholeleaf Hakuro Nishiki The first time is pruned at the end of March. Additionally, branches can also be shortened in May and at the end of June. After each pruning, the tree produces new shoots with beautiful foliage.
Willows with a bushy crown are usually pruned in early spring. If you want to admire the flowers, you can wait to prune until the plant has finished blooming.
Globe maple holly is not pruned as much as white acacia Umbraculifera or not cut at all. Important: branches are shortened only from August to December, no later, otherwise the tree will cry.
In grafted standard plants, wild growth may appear on the rootstock. Her the same as root shoots are cut off at the base without leaving any stumps.
Plants with drooping crown.
Standard plants with romantically hanging branches invariably attract the eye. A similar weeping crown shape is found in many trees and shrubs, for example goat willow (Salix caprea) Pendula.
This tree grows quickly, so branches are shortened every year , leaving stumps about 10 cm long. Trees that have not been pruned for a long time can also be rejuvenated by heavy pruning.
If we are talking about grafted trees and shrubs, it is necessary to completely remove the game , formed on the supply below the grafting site.
Do not trim:
- European beech (Fagus sylvatica) Purpurea pendula,
- rough elm (Úlmus glábra) camperdownii,
- warty birch (Betula pendula) Youngii,
- white mulberry (Mórus álba) Penaula .
These plants with drooping crowns grow more slowly than their upright relatives. The crowns of the listed trees form on their own and do not need adjustment. Is it just damaged branches? you can cut off at the very base or shorten the branches that seem too big or long. The last procedure must be carried out in stages so that the plant does not lose its beautiful appearance.
Decorative apple trees.
While fruit trees should primarily please with a bountiful harvest, decorative types are valued, first of all, for their beautiful appearance. Decorative apple tree (Malus) It is especially popular due to its compact crown, brightly colored autumn foliage and fruits remaining on the branches even in winter. This tree is pruned only when necessary and always in order to preserve the harmonious appearance of the plant. To do this, in early spring, crowns growing inward and crossing, as well as dry and damaged branches are removed.
To transform a bush-like tree into a standard one, in addition to the above-mentioned branches, every year it is necessary to remove the lower lateral branches , leaving one, the longest, as the central conductor, until the desired height is reached. If it is necessary to slow down the growth of an apple tree on a vigorous rootstock, summer pruning is carried out, although then the structure of the plant is less visible.
Decorative cherry can be called a real beauty - sakura, reaching the zenith of flowering in April - May. By old trees it is enough to limit yourself to only weak thinning of the crown . And if decorative apple trees If they are pruned in early spring, it is better to prune sakura in the summer, when the sap flow of these plants slows down and the cuts heal faster.
For vertically growing ornamental cherries, for example cherry (Prunus serrulata) Amanogawa , there is a place even in small gardens and front gardens. Their crown is good even without pruning.
Columnar yews, for example yew berry (Táxus baccáta) varieties Fastigiata Aurea , tolerates haircuts well. However only old plants are pruned or in the case when a slender shape is preferred, and the columnar crown grows in breadth.
Beautiful without trimming
While some trees and large shrubs have a naturally beautiful crown shape or acquire it through adjustments, there are a group of plants that do not benefit from pruning : many slow growing trees such as magnolia, maple (Acer palmatum) They look better with a natural shaped crown. Unless they can be slightly thinned out.
Since in slow-growing trees and shrubs, new shoots no longer appear on old wood, every step must be carefully thought out, because due to improper pruning, a beautiful tree can be destroyed. for a long time disfigure. If you don’t have pruning skills, It is best to remove branches in early spring , when even a beginner can clearly see the structure of the plant crown.
Also trimmed:
- maple (Acer palmatum),
- womanizer (Laburnum),
- cersis (Cercis), magnolia (Magnolia),
- corylopsis (Corylopsis),
- witch hazel (Hamamelis),
- common wolfberry
- boletus.
Pruning spring flowering shrubs.
Many shrubs that, like forsythia, bloom in the spring, flower buds appear primarily on last year's growth. If the bushes are not pruned, they age and the number of new shoots decreases. To stimulate the formation of new shoots, these Plants should be thinned out every year after flowering. . To do this, individual old branches are cut off at the soil surface. In addition, it is necessary to remove or shorten faded branches. Additionally, you can trim individual side branches directed towards the middle of the bush.
Also trimmed:
- bladderwort (Physocarpus),
- blood red currant (Ribes sanguineum),
- deutzia, mock orange (Philadélphus),
- forsythia (Forsythia),
- viburnum (Viburnum opulus),
- Kolkwitzia,
- spirea Vanhouttei (Spiraea x vanhouttei),
- Kerria,
- weigela.
Pruning summer flowering shrubs.
Pruning is carried out primarily so that they bloom profusely. . In addition, thanks to regular pruning, plants acquire a beautiful compact shape.
Many shrubs blooming in summer, flower buds are formed on young shoots that appear in the spring. A typical example of buddleia. In order for the plant to produce as many young shoots with flower buds as possible in the spring, buddleia is pruned in the fall or early spring.
But in most early flowering plants, for example forsythia, flower buds are formed on last year's growths. If the shrub is pruned, like buddleia, in early spring, there will be very few flowers. That's why Early flowering shrubs are pruned immediately after flowering . Then the plants will again give new shoots, lay good foundation for flowering next year. The only exception is shrubs with beautiful fruits, for example, beautiful carp (Callicarpa) and European euonymus. Although they bloom in the spring, if you shorten the branches immediately after flowering, you will also cut off the fruits. Such shrubs should only be rejuvenated once every 5 years, completely removing old branches in late autumn.
Some shrubs also have flowers on perennial branches. Such shrubs include irga And lilac. They do not need to be trimmed regularly, It is enough to thin out the bushes every few years . And pruning is generally contraindicated for dogwood.
When pruning a plant, many gardeners make the same mistake error:They trim overgrown bushes with hedge shears only from the top, leveling the bushes at the same height. This, in turn, can lead to plants not blooming at all or losing their attractiveness. As a result, a new root growth and the plant rejuvenates. Function old branch can be delegated to a younger lateral process.
To do this, cut the branch above the shoot selected by the side branch. The branch continues to grow, but the role of the top is now played by a young shoot. By removing only individual branches, you will help the bush preserve natural form, and in winter even without leaves it will look beautiful. In general, the more radical the pruning, the more young shoots appear on the bush. In summer they also need to be thinned out well, otherwise the bush will soon grow to the same size.
At all Strong thickening on grafted shrubs is not allowed . Otherwise, wild growth from the rootstock will quickly displace the cultivated scion.
There are shrubs, such as white and silky dera, which are not particularly distinguished by the splendor of their flowers or the color of their leaves, but they do have bright branches.
This advantage is especially noticeable in winter. However, only young shoots have a striking color; after 3-4 years, the color of the bark becomes faded. Therefore, the purpose of pruning such shrubs is to form new shoots. Plant must be thinned out every year in early spring shortly before shoots appear , cutting off all branches older than three years at the soil surface. Neglected derain bushes can be thinned out throughout the season.
They also cut:
- silky turf (Cornus sericea),
- willow (Salix daphnoides),
- Cockburn raspberry (Rubus cockbur-nianus),
- white dogwood (Cornus alba)
Beautiful with or without pruning:
- flowering turf (Cornus florida)
- derain kousa (Cornus kousa),
- viburnum viburnum (Viburnum plicatum) Mariesii,
- fothergilla,
- controversa (Cornus controversa),
- corylopsis (Corylopsis spicata).
In order for lavender to smell fully fragrant in the summer, and for its bush to have a harmonious appearance, the plant must be trimmed 2 times a year, using hedge shears.
The first time in the spring, when the temperature begins to gradually rise, the tops of the shoots are shortened by a third, giving the bush a semicircular shape.
The second time is in the fall, when the inflorescences have already dried up. This time, the peduncles are removed along with the top 2-3 pairs of leaves.
Young plants are also pruned in the same way in the first year after planting. Then the lavender grows, creating a dense carpet. If lavender is not pruned, the shoots become woody to the very tips. In this case, the plant will lose its compact shape and will not tolerate more severe spring pruning.
Some gardeners trim lavender with pruning shears, but it is better to use hedge shears; they are easier to give the bush a uniform cushion shape. Make sure that the bush takes on the shape of a hemisphere. Dry branches can be used to scent a room.
Pruning hydrangeas
Depending on the type, hydrangeas lay flower buds in different time year, the care of each specific species depends on this. For example, large-leaved hydrangea flowers appear on last year's growths. This means that flower buds are laid on them in the summer of last year, so the plant cannot be pruned in the spring.
But paniculate hydrangea blooms on young shoots current year, so its bushes can be pruned quite radically. In shade-tolerant tree hydrangea spherical inflorescences also appear on annual growths. However, in any case, hydrangeas of all types need thorough anti-aging pruning every 3-4 years, then the bushes will always have a beautiful compact shape.
Just like every rule has its own exceptions, and here: Almost every type of hydrangea has at least one variety whose flowers are laid differently than other relatives. Therefore, it is best to learn about the characteristics of each species and variety from specialized reference books, even before purchasing a new green pet.
G Ortensia macrophylla Otrim slightly . Hydrangea grandifolia, hydrangea pollenum and hydrangea oakleaf have flowers on biennial branches. So that the bushes grow evenly and take on a beautiful shape in the first year after planting they are not cut at all . Late winter or early spring Only dry inflorescences should be removed , carefully cutting them off above the first pair of buds, but not below. Otherwise, you will remove already formed flower buds, and the plant will not bloom. And so that young shoots constantly form on the hydrangea, the bush must be thinned out every 3-4 years . To do this, cut off old branches that have begun to bloom weakly, flush with the soil surface.
Hydrangea paniculata Medium pruning is required. Hydrangea paniculata significantly different from other types of hydrangeas, with cone-shaped inflorescences. Since its flower buds form on annual branches and shoots of the current year, this plant blooms profusely, even if it has suffered from severe frosts. In the spring, during the first three years after planting, all strong skeletal branches should be shortened by a third, weaker ones by half. In an adult plant remove old branches growing in the middle of the bush, and also trim annual ones with dried inflorescences , up to four kidneys. Young shoots with flower buds appear from them. Without pruning, the bush grows greatly, in which case it will need to be thinned out as quickly as possible. Exceptions for varieties Pgaecoh And Dharuma buds appear on last year's branches (growths), so they are not pruned. Only at the end of summer can the wilting of the inflorescence be removed.
Hydrangea It is characterized by frost resistance and abundant flowering. Thanks to its bright white, pom-pom-like inflorescences - balls, it will fit perfectly into both rustic and modern style garden Most hardy variety hydrangea tree Annabelle , the flowers of which are initially painted in a soft green color, blooming, gradually turning white. This and lesser known varieties Grandiflora And White Dome , flowers appear on the shoots of the current year. Therefore, in early spring it can be done without remorse. shorten, leaving 15-20 cm above the soil surface. Thanks to such radical pruning, the bush will appear more inflorescences, and they will be larger. Young plants should be handled more carefully and pruned more sparingly. In May, After the leaves appear, the plant is usually no longer pruned . Since these hydrangeas very heavy and large inflorescences, they need support. Advice: shorten some of the stems again in mid-June, then later the bush will begin to bloom again and this will last until autumn.
Depending on the time it takes place, they are distinguished autumn, spring and summer pruning , of which spring is considered the main one. At the same time, for each group of roses, from small flower beds to tall climbing ones, there are its own pruning rules.
Most suitable the time for spring pruning of roses comes in April , namely when forsythia flowers bloom. As a rule, this means that the threat of severe frost has already passed and the queen of flowers will soon have new shoots. However, if the rose needs to be greatly thinned out or individual old branches need to be removed, then this can be done in the fall.
Cut branches should not be left in the garden or put into compost. Then it will be possible to prevent the spread of pathogenic microbes and fungi that cause black spot and powdery mildew to other plants.
Shrub roses (remontant) single-flowering and repeat-blooming ones are pruned differently. The latter include all modern varieties, park roses, as well as many English roses that bloom magnificently all summer. Early they need to be thinned out in the spring , removing first of all dry and damaged branches. Shorten the side shoots on the outside of the bush by about 5 buds. This promotes more abundant flowering.
If desired, you can shorten the bush in height by one and two thirds of the length. Many old varieties are considered to bloom once. They bloom profusely on last year's growths. In order for shoots with flower buds to form on the plants next year, such roses should be pruned immediately after flowering.
Floribunda, hybrid tea and miniature roses.
First, dead, dry and damaged branches are removed , then the stems growing inside the bush, and trimmed to healthy tissue. Then 3-5 of the youngest and strongest stems are shortened, taking into account the growth strength and varietal characteristics each plant. In roses from the Floribunda and hybrid tea groups, 3-4 lower, well-developed buds are left on each stem; in vigorous varieties there are more. Miniature and ground cover roses Don't prune at all in spring , and in summer, faded inflorescences with 1-2 leaves are removed.
Climbing roses.
In remontant climbing roses in spring cut out all the old stems , leaving 5-6 strong annual growths, and if there are few of them, then several biennials, and shorten the side branches to 3-5 buds. After pruning, the stems are carefully tied to the support, if possible, directing the stems at the top horizontally or at an angle, which stimulates flowering. In summer wilted flowers removed along with 2-3 leaves, after which the roses quickly bloom again.
Single-flowering ramblers, such as cultivars Veilchenblau , do not cause much trouble. They flower along the entire length of the overwintered stems of last year's growth, so pruning comes down to removing all old stems and shortening the side shoots to 20-25 cm.
Standard roses.
When pruning standard roses, it is important to know which group the variety grafted onto the standard belongs to. . If he belongs to hybrid tea, floribunda or shrub roses, the compact form is formed mainly by upright growing branches. To give the crown of a standard rose a rounded shape, the scion branches of such plants are shortened to 20-30 cm in early spring.
If the crown standard rose present varietal miniature roses , then they are cut off just as much. Things are different with roses with drooping stems, the so-called weeping or cascading standard roses. They serve as a graft climbing roses, including ramblers, as well as miniature roses with drooping stems. In cascading roses, only branches that are too long are shortened. However, in order for the rose to remain beautiful and bloom profusely from year to year, it is still necessary to remove too old branches from time to time, thereby freeing up space for the formation of young growths.
Important: Before you start pruning the queen of flowers, sharpen your pruning shears thoroughly. Then the cut will be even, and besides, you will spend less time on cutting.
In this article we will talk about how to properly form trees and shrubs. How to avoid uprooting fruit trees by rejuvenation: pruning, thinning and shortening the crown.
Looking at beautiful strong trees, without a single leaf on the ground, many believe that the owner was lucky with the choice of variety or he uses some special preparations that allow him to grow healthy harvest. In fact, important point in garden care is correct processing soil and annual pruning. Her goals:
- provide access to light and air to all branches, which will allow the tree to resist diseases and insects;
- promptly remove old branches that will break under the weight of the fruit, and weak, fruitless stems;
- achieve an annual harvest, taking into account that pome-bearing trees (pears and apple trees) bear fruit in a year if not pruned correctly.
Timely pruning is the key to a rich harvest
According to the seasons, there are two types of pruning: summer and winter.
Winter pruning is done with the onset of cold weather (but not frost), when sap flow stops, and in early spring, while the trees are still dormant. All major pruning procedures occur during this period.
Summer pruning is done during the growing season of plants. This is the removal of excess green shoots and tops, which is carried out without harm to the plant.
In the photo above we see new branches that began to stretch in the spring. They can be removed in the summer, as they will not bear fruit. This pruning technique can solve specific task— free the tree from unnecessary work, without harm to the plant.
Basic pruning techniques
The formation of the crown begins with the removal of all branches that have stretched inward, up and down over the summer.
In the photo we see that the branches are intertwined with each other, the skeletal trunk consists of two parts. This tree should have been pruned in winter.
The more “ruthlessly” we cut off the extra branches, the more quality fruits we will receive at harvest. This is an important component when pruning a tree.
The main purpose of pruning (shortening) branches that are, at first glance, considered unnecessary, can be seen in the next photo.
Branches with well-developed buds needed to be shortened by half. In this case, the fruits pull the stems down and fall off, and the supply of nutrients to the entire tree is disrupted.
How to cut branches correctly
Experienced gardeners identify three main cutting techniques.
Large branches are cut down with a garden saw, exactly along the annular flow.
Small branches are cut with pruning shears, determining the correct place for the cut - on the ring.
The cutting line for branches that do not have an annular bead is determined visually by dividing the trunk into two lines - parallel to the trunk and perpendicular to the axis of the branch that needs to be cut. The cut should be made along the bisector of the resulting angle.
Breaking out shoots and removing buds is also referred to as cutting. The procedure is carried out in the spring, when the buds begin to fill. Then you can see which of them will thicken the crown without benefit. These also include tops - buds growing from the trunk. They can be removed by hand along with pieces of wood. Minor wounds formed during this process “heal” without additional treatment.
Basal shoots slow down the development activity of the tree. It must be removed several times a season. Above-ground pruning is ineffective, since the shortened shoots, supplied with moisture and warmed by the sun, begin to stretch again. Its growth will stop for a long time if you remove the top layer of soil above the root system and cut the plant from the root.
How to prune trees correctly
Trimming trees is the same pruning, divided into several techniques:
- bud pruning
- stump trimming
- trimming "for translation"
- pinching
Bud pruning- this is shortening the stem in a place where there is a healthy bud, in order to change the direction of growth of the branch. It should be located on the part of the stem where the future branch needs to be directed. The cut is made with a sharp pruner. It's important to choose right direction cut.
Pinching or removing excess shoots is used in the summer. After removing the green tip, the growth of the branch stops, and the remaining part of the branch turns into a skeletal branch, which will subsequently bear fruit.
Shortening the branch to “translation” means cutting off part of the sprouts on a branched branch, leaving only those that will “translate” the new trunk in the desired direction.
Trimming to stump used for rejuvenating shrubs or “dwarf” trees. For fruit trees, such shortening “to the stump” is unacceptable, except in cases where it is necessary to regraft onto healthy tree, which does not bear high-quality fruits, cuttings of another or several varieties.
The grafting site should be lubricated with garden varnish, tied with electrical tape and wrapped woolen fabric. Most the right time for grafting another variety in spring, summer, early autumn, while sap flow continues.
Pruning young trees from 1 to 3 years
In young seedlings, it is necessary to prune new shoots until the trunk reaches a meter in length.
The process of pruning young trees is to allow the trunk to grow stronger and form. During the first 2 years, only 2-3 skeletal branches form, growing at an angle of 40 degrees relative to the leading trunk. The procedure is repeated in autumn and spring. Shoots should not exceed 50-70 cm. In the third year, the tree begins to form according to the same pattern as adults.
Pruning and shaping shrubs for rejuvenation
Trimming technology fruit bushes individual for each plant.
Evergreens are shortened as the shoots grow, giving the bushes a certain shape.
Fruit and berry bushes - according to a specially developed scheme. Many species must be cut out in the fall “on the stump” and wrapped on winter period, and some are cut to specific sizes. The main procedure for rejuvenating shrubs is spring pruning. It is aimed at freeing the bush from excess shoots that intersect with the main branches, thinning the stems to allow light to enter and ensure oxygen access.
Soil treatment after pruning
A properly treated plant requires additional feeding. In autumn, the soil in the garden is mulched with compost or manure. Nitrogen fertilizers are required in spring. In summer - potassium-phosphorus supplements.
A well-kept garden increases the duration of fruiting for a long time, and correct pruning promotes the development of strong and juicy fruits.
Pruning apple trees is a technique that every gardener needs to know.
By using pruning at random, without knowing the rules, gardeners can cause irreparable damage to fruit trees.
Proper pruning - important element in the formation of a well-groomed, consistently fruit-bearing apple orchard.
Before properly pruning an apple tree, It is necessary to carefully study pruning methods and their types.
Types of pruning
Pruning can be formative, sanitary, rejuvenating and regulating. Formative pruning creates a strong skeleton for the tree, on which only strong, fruit-bearing branches remain. Sanitary pruning is designed to clean the tree from damaged and incorrectly growing branches.
Rejuvenation - removal of old fruit branches. By using regulating pruning The height of the apple tree is restrained, the crown is thinned out, and fruiting is regulated.
Based on intensity, pruning methods are divided into pinching, weak, medium and strong.
- Pinching is used during the active development of annual green growths.
- With light pruning on young trees, the growth of new shoots is stimulated; skeletal branches are cut by one quarter.
- With medium pruning, the branches are cut off by one third. This method is used on mature apple trees that are more than five years old.
- Heavy pruning involves complete removal large quantity branches. This is how the crowns of mature trees are thinned out.
Basic Techniques
Trimming to ring
This technique is used when you want to completely delete a branch. At the point of growth, each branch has a ring-shaped growth.
In this place, tissue cells are able to actively divide, so a cut made into a ring heals quickly. It is important to make an even, clean cut so that approximately half of the ring remains on the branch, and half on the base.
You cannot cut too far from the base - a stump will remain. The consequence of such pruning is that the stump dries out, falls out and forms a hollow. You cannot completely cut off the ring from the base, going deeper into the cambium - this will injure the tree.
Bud pruning
When branches are partially removed, pruning to the outer bud allows you to expand the crown and reduce its density.
A cut to a bud looking inside the crown is used to the shoots began to grow inward and the crown became dense.
The correct cutting distance is no more than 50mm from the selected bud. Exceed this distance and a stump will remain; if it is too low, there is a risk of kidney damage.
Cuts should be immediately cover with garden varnish, oil paint or drying oil so that the wound is not damaged by infection.
An example of correct pruning for a bud.
Large ring sections It is better to pre-disinfect with antifungal drugs, for example, a solution copper sulfate or iron sulfate(three or five% respectively).
Terms of work
The timing of pruning is determined by the needs of the trees, not the gardener. The best time to carry out work is the very beginning of sap flow. Tree pruning begins in the spring from mid-April and continues until the buds break..
Advice! Early summer convenient to produce sanitary pruning, since it becomes clearly visible which shoot survived the winter and which froze.
During this period, it is easy to identify branches infected with infection or pests. In August, pruning can be done in areas where spring return frosts are common. This will slow down the beginning of the tree’s growing season for the next season and will preserve the fruit buds.
A good time to prune apple trees is autumn, when the leaves and fruits have already been dropped. The main thing that for the next two to three weeks the air temperature did not drop below ten degrees. In the south, in a climate with warm winters The pruning period can last until February.
Based on the timing of work, methods and types of pruning, you can draw up work plans for different seasons.
Apple tree pruning diagram for beginners
How to properly trim apple tree branches in spring?
in spring main tasks of a gardener– eliminating the consequences of wintering apple trees, preparing them for the new season. Sanitary pruning is carried out, young apple trees form:
- All broken, burned and frostbitten branches are removed;
- Branches severely damaged by infections or pests are completely destroyed;
- Branches that grow inside the crown and form sharp corner with barrel;
- Old trees can be rejuvenated;
- Strong or medium regulatory pruning is carried out if necessary.
By carrying out regulatory pruning in the spring, you can control the amount of harvest. If the previous year the tree gave big harvest, it laid some flower buds. In this case, spring regulatory pruning will not be necessary.
If the previous year was not rich in harvest, then in the spring the tree must be pruned quite strongly. This way the apple tree will have as many fruits as it can grow without spending excessive effort.
How to prune apple trees in summer?
Drastic pruning is possible only as a reaction to negative natural phenomena.
- Early summer– time to remove diseased branches if the extent of their damage was not visible in the spring;
- End of June– pinch rapidly growing green shoots so that they do not take away nutrition from the main skeleton of the plant and do not shade the crown;
- Anytime those branches that have broken or cracked under the influence of natural factors or the severity of the harvest are pruned;
- End of summer— old branches of adult plants on which few apples have formed and those that shade young fruit-bearing branches are removed;
- End of summer– prune fruit-bearing trees to slow down the start of the growing season next season, if necessary.
If there are no sick or broken branches on the apple trees, in the summer you can limit yourself to only pruning that regulates the density of the crown. Knowing how to prune an apple tree during the summer months will help you achieve a successful harvest.
How to prune apple trees in the fall?
You can do all the pruning work that you didn’t have time for in spring and summer:
- Branches broken by the wind are removed;
- Branches that have broken or cracked under the weight of fruit are removed;
- After fruiting, sanitary pruning is carried out to get rid of the consequences of harvesting;
- Rejuvenating pruning of old apple trees is carried out;
- If, during the fruiting period, branches were noticed on adult apple trees on which there was practically no harvest, they should be removed;
- The branches on which small and deformed fruits have grown are removed;
- Branches that shade the main fruit-bearing shoots are removed;
- Branches that are heavily damaged by pests, bacterial or fungal infections are removed.
Advice! Universal scheme There is no pruning, focus on the individual needs of each apple tree.
The need for pruning depends on many factors. One of them is the age of the orchard.
How to properly saw down apple trees of different ages?
Having decided to prune a young apple tree, the gardener sets himself the goal of laying a good foundation for its further development. An old fruit tree is pruned to enhance fruiting, remove crown defects, and preserve vitality For further growth. Most of the work involved in pruning mature apple trees is aimed at getting rid of diseases and pests.
Although the methods and types of work for pruning young and mature trees are the same, the technology of work is different. Let's look further at how to prune an apple tree by year.
annual apple tree
The gardener has two tasks at this stage: to restrain the growth height of the central shoot so that the skeletal side branches develop well, and to form a trunk. Formative pruning of young apple trees should begin one year after landing.
At the age of one year, the seedling consists of a trunk and 2 - 3 branches. If the central trunk is cut at a height of 0.8 - 1 meter, the growth of side shoots will increase. Long skeletal branches need to be shortened. Each of them should be 16-20 cm shorter than the height of the trunk, and have from three to five buds.
To form the correct trunk, the shoots that grow on the seedling at a distance of 40-50 cm from the ground must be removed. Branches that have an angle of up to 60 degrees at the point of growth will not be able to form a good backbone on their own. You can deal with them in two ways: remove or try to give them a horizontal position.
Two year old apple tree
If you are wondering how to prune a 2-year-old apple tree, then you should know that pruning helps to properly lay the tiers of skeletal branches.
The crown shape - any, except cup-shaped, requires the presence of two to five large branches on each tier. The interval between the formed levels is approximately 40 - 60 cm and depends on the expected height of the tree.
The branches of each level should be located at approximately equal distances from each other relative to the circumference of the tier. In a two-year-old seedling, the skeletal branches are shortened.
If a decision is made to form an apple tree in the form of a bowl, then in the second year of life the seedling completely remove the central trunk. The cut is made above the first fork of the branches.
In the absence of a center, its role will be taken over by the side branches. An apple tree will form, consisting of 2-4 trunks, depending on the number of skeletal branches on the first tier.
Until the age of five, the crown continues to form.
Mature apple tree
Starting from the age of five, the main pruning is carried out on fruit trees. Before starting it, sanitary pruning is carried out. When the apple tree is cleaned, they begin rejuvenation:
- Cut off all old branches that are no longer capable of producing apples of varietal size and quality;
- Some of the tops are cut out;
- Crossing branches are cut into the ring;
- All branches directed into the crown and downwards are removed;
- The root shoots and growth growing near the trunk are destroyed;
The last stage of anti-aging procedures is shortening the trunk. Tall trees can be pruned to 3.5 - 2.5 meters without harming the intensity of fruiting. Removing the top allows light to enter the crown, helps increase the quality of fruits and their quantity.
Important! If the apple tree is more than eight years old, you cannot do anti-aging pruning at one time. Losing a large volume of vegetative mass at the same time is a big stress for an old tree. It is better to distribute the work over several years.
Pruning apple trees on dwarf and columnar rootstocks has its own peculiarities.
How to prune a dwarf apple tree?
On a dwarf apple tree rootstock they produce bountiful harvests, begin to bear fruit earlier. If dwarf fruit trees are not pruned, their total fruiting period may be reduced to 3 to 5 years.
In the first year of life, the crown skeleton is formed by trimming the trunk. The cutting height depends on the variety and is 40-70 cm. Side shoots trimmed so that the crown visually looks like ball, hat or triangle.
The closer to the top of the apple tree, the stronger the branches develop. Strong upper branches are shortened, which stimulates the growth and development of shoots in the center of the crown. Tree branches on dwarf rootstocks, if they are healthy, rarely cut out completely. Most often, two to four buds are left on them.
As soon as the apple tree begins to bear fruit, the number of flower buds should be regulated so as not to overload the apple tree with fruits. Under the weight of fruits dwarf varieties It may not only be the branches that are broken. A tree can uproot itself from the ground.
How to properly prune a columnar apple tree
The crown shape of columnar apple trees is special. The width of such a tree does not exceed 50 cm; it has no long side branches. Regular trimming columns are not required. But sometimes the apple tree needs pruning.
Damage to the top of the trunk
Damage to the top - one of the most common problems columnar apple tree. Damage is usually caused by frost and pests, then by the beginning of the season the apical part of the trunk dries out and dies. These processes force gardeners to trim the top.
The peculiarity of pruning shoots at the crown is that it is necessary not only to cut off the central shoot, but also to find a replacement for it. If this is not done, the apple tree will form several trunks at the top, will lose its column shape. To create a new crown, choose the strongest shoot that grows vertically.
The remaining vertical branches are cut off, leaving two to three buds from the base. The former crown is removed at the point of contact with the selected leader.
To avoid the need for pruning, the top of the columns should be wrapped for the winter.
How to trim an apple tree while maintaining the shape of the crown?
In the first year of growth, columnar varieties, as a rule, do not require gardener intervention in the process of crown formation. Starting from the age of two, young growths begin to compete with fruiting branches, take food from them.
It is during this period that the gardener must intervene and adjust the ratio of the growth of the main branches and increments:
- All shoots that the apple tree has formed are pinched at the same distance from the trunk, which is 25-30 cm;
- In the third and subsequent years, pinching is carried out at a distance of 30-40 cm;
- Starting from the fourth year, three-year-old branches are partially removed.
The peculiarity of pruning side shoots is that with systematic pinching, the columnar apple tree will not need pruning. Since pinching is a more gentle procedure, The apple tree is not injured and does not experience stress.
Attention! It is recommended to completely wrap columnar apple trees with covering material in several layers for the winter. Thus, during periods of severe frosts and sharp temperature fluctuations, the flower buds, trunk and, most importantly, the bark of the apple tree will not be damaged.
Any apple tree needs special maintenance care after pruning.
How to prune an apple tree: video of the correct technique
If you don’t know how to properly prune an apple tree, we recommend watching this video:
And in this video, see the details and subtleties of spring pruning of apple trees:
Apple tree care after pruning
After pruning, fruit trees need watering and fertilizing. If pruning was carried out in the spring, it is necessary to add to the soil trunk circle fertilizers that contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in equal parts.
After autumn pruning, fertilizers are applied, which contain potassium and phosphorus - they stimulate wound healing and strengthen the bark of the apple tree. Nitrogen fertilizers V autumn period should be avoided.
Adding nitrogen in the fall will give impetus to the development of new shoots; as a result, the wood of annual growths will not have time to fully ripen, and the apple tree will not prepare for wintering. As a result, the cuts made in the fall may be susceptible to frostbite.
When fertilizing, you should strictly follow the norms for applying fertilizers. Overfertilization apple trees will do more harm than good.
Apple tree pruning diagram.
How to prune an apple tree by year.
How to prune an apple tree in the fall.
How to prune apple trees to form a tree crown.
Instead of a conclusion
When preparing to prune an apple tree, you must remember that when cutting each branch, you should answer the question “why?” There is an answer - cut. There is no answer, which means this branch can remain on the apple tree.
If a bacterial or fungal infection is raging in the area - garden pruning should be postponed. Every cut is a potential entry point for microbes.
Proper pruning is the key to the health and fertility of an orchard.
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Fruit tree pruning- a complex event that takes place in the garden in November. Sometimes it is very difficult to understand, especially for a beginner, how to prune fruit trees correctly and when to prune.
Let's take a closer look: how to properly prune fruit trees for beginners, where to start, when and how to prune trees, step-by-step description with photos and videos.
At the end of October - beginning of November, all work in the garden should already be completed: perennial flowers and shrubs should be pruned and covered for the winter, the water should be turned off, the equipment should be put away for storage - you can calmly wait for the next season.
But this is not so, because autumn is the time for pruning fruit trees and shrubs, and is usually carried out before the first night frosts, when the foliage begins to turn yellow.
Firstly, the growing season is over, and pruning will not provoke the growth of new shoots; juice will not leak through the wounds, since sap flow has ended. Compared to winter pruning of trees, the wounds left from autumn pruning will not freeze, and the bark will not peel off at the cut sites.
Properly pruned trees After winter they begin to bear fruit very well. In the spring, you simply may not have time to prune before the sap begins to flow; it happens that spring comes quickly.
Attention: Pruning of fruit trees in the fall (late October - November) is carried out in regions with moderate climatic conditions. It is not recommended to do this in the northern regions; the plants will not have time to recover before the onset of cold weather, and the bark at the cut site may freeze. From such damage, the bark dries out and cracks, which leads to the death of plants.
IN northern regions It is better to prune trees and shrubs in September - early October.
Tree pruning– it’s not a simple matter, it has many nuances. Let's consider simple recommendations tree pruning that anyone can handle.
Pruning is necessary to form a balanced, beautiful tree, each branch of which will have the strength to bear fruit.
Crown thinning is a creation the best conditions for the formation of not only fruits, but the largest, healthiest and most beautiful ones.
Sanitary pruning – preventive measure aimed at forming good health plants. By systematically pruning, you give your tree the opportunity to become long-lived.
In the pruning in the pictures, everything seems to be clear, but when you approach the tree, you are simply lost in the sight of a huge number of branches sticking out in all directions in front of you.
For pruning we need the following tools: hacksaw, regular and long-handled pruning shears, sharp garden knife, oil paint- if pruning in the fall, and garden varnish - if pruning in the spring.
Attention: Make any cuts strictly to the ring; the health and even life of the tree depends on this.
If you cut a branch with a hole– the layers of the trunk through which the juice flows are damaged. If you leave the stump, the bark will peel off and the wood will begin to rot. Over time, such a cut will turn into a hollow with a bunch of diseases that can spread to the entire tree.
Proper pruning It is carried out in an annular flow; it promotes rapid healing of the wound and healthy bark around the cut. Only the part of the cut branch located near the trunk is scarred.
Slice definitely need to be treated with oil paint - in the autumn. This treatment is carried out annually.
Large branches are cut in 3 stages.
They start cutting a thick branch from the bottom, making an undercut, otherwise the branch may break under its own weight and the bark will tear.
Then the branch is cut down above the bottom cut.
And the final stage, when the branch is removed and nothing is in the way, a leveling cut is made onto the ring. Use a sharp knife to clean out all the irregularities and paint.
After autumn pruning of young seedlings, it is recommended to water them immediately after completion of the procedure. You can also fertilize with mineral fertilizers, which will help young plant cope better with stress.
Correct tree crown shaping it is necessary to start from the moment the seedling is planted. The very first thing to do is to form the correct standard (the lower branches must grow at a certain height from the ground). All branches and buds at a height from the ground to 40 cm are removed.
If on young seedling If there are no branches yet, it is recommended to trim the crown; in the spring, young branches will begin to grow from all the buds, from which you will need to choose the strongest ones.
Video – Master class on pruning fruit trees
At this stage of pruning, the crown of the tree is formed. Basic Rule– skeletal branches should diverge in different directions and form a large angle with the trunk.
The more horizontal the branch is, the better it bears fruit and holds the weight of the fruit. Vertical branches bear fruit poorly and often break.
Trim off all unnecessary and weak branches, leaving 3-4 skeletal. If another tier of branches is formed on the tree, then we do the same.
Now let's take care of getting a quick harvest, for this we need shorten long branches to a bud. The weaker the branch, the shorter we cut it, this will encourage stronger growth next year.
If the frame branches grow incorrectly, they should not be pruned, otherwise you will not get a harvest. It is better to stretch them, giving them the desired direction of growth.
Pruning apple trees is done to create a crown that will be well ventilated and lit, and will also ensure convenient harvesting. This procedure should be performed several times a year, taking into account the characteristics of a particular tree, observing the deadlines and basic rules for carrying out the work.
Pruning apple trees: when to do?
There is no definitive answer as to when to prune apple trees. Best results can be obtained if such work is carried out throughout the year. With the help of pruning, not only the “correct” crown is created, but also reliable prevention of the tree from being damaged by diseases and pests is ensured, its productivity increases, and winter hardiness increases.
Pruning carried out at the very beginning of spring promotes growth and development, summer cleaning allows you to get rid of damaged and dried branches, and during autumn pruning the tree is prepared for the coming winter. The frequency of pruning depends on the age of the apple tree - the younger it is, the more it needs timely formation of the crown.
If we talk about specific dates, then in the spring it is recommended to prune the apple tree before the buds begin to develop, and in the fall - after the leaves have completely fallen, but before the first frost.
How to prune correctly
Despite an individual approach to each process of pruning an apple tree, in each case it is necessary to follow the basic rules for performing such work.
Rule #1 . The entire tool must be very sharp so that the cut is smooth, without protruding bark scraps. This will ensure its quick and painless healing.
Rule #2 . It is necessary to use only high-quality garden varnish. Instead, you can use oil paint, but only on drying oil.
Rule #3. If the branch is completely removed, the cut should be strictly along the “ring” (the bulge at the base of the branch growing at an angle of more than 30°). If you cut out this ring or leave a piece of the branch after it, it will not heal for a long time and may dry out and die.
If there is no such overflow (usually in branches growing at an angle of less than 30°), experts recommend mentally drawing a line running at right angles to the main branch and making a cut in the middle of this angle (red line in the figure).
Rule #4. Partial pruning of a branch can be done on the outer or inner bud. In the first case, the bud, above which the cut is made, “looks” outward, in the second, it is directed towards the trunk. The outer bud contributes to the expansion of the crown and its thinning, the inner one will strengthen the central part.
Rule #5 . If the cut is made with a saw, you need to finish the edges sharp knife so that the bark does not have a “shaggy” appearance.
Rule #6. When pruning on a bud, the knife is installed just below the bud on the opposite side of the branch and sudden movement is drawn upward at an angle of 45° so that the end of the cut is 2 mm above the kidney.
Pruning apple trees in spring
Traditionally, spring pruning of apple trees is the most common among gardeners. It is performed in March - early April, until kidney development begins. Such work must be carried out in compliance with some recommendations:
- to provide the crown with free access to light and air, you need to remove shoots growing inward;
- to prevent the growth of touching branches, which will subsequently damage the bark through friction, all intersecting shoots should be cut off;
- to improve the health of the tree and thin out the crown, you need to trim off the weak internal shoots and damaged branches.
All spring work apple tree pruning is aimed at creating a healthy crown and increasing productivity. This procedure is well tolerated by the tree, and the period itself is very favorable for this, since all branches damaged in winter are clearly visible. If removed in a timely manner, the apple tree will not waste energy restoring them, and the nutrients accumulated over the winter will help the cuts to quickly overgrow.
Post-planting pruning of seedlings
The first pruning is performed immediately during planting. Its goal is to balance the needs of the above-ground part of the tree with the capabilities of the root system damaged by transplantation. To do this, it is necessary to prune the seedling at a height of 1 m. If it already has branches, remove all those located half a meter from the ground, as well as those that grow at an angle of less than 30 °. The rest are pruned to 3-5 buds, including the conductor, while it must remain at least 15 cm higher than the other shoots.
When shortening branches, it is also necessary to determine their future purpose. So, if carried out classic trimming apple trees in spring, the diagram may look like this
The competitive branch (b) must be cut out completely along the ring so that the buds do not wake up in this place and the tops do not begin to grow. Main branches (c) of an apple tree pyramidal shape should be cut to the outer bud, and for a spreading one - to the inner bud.
The forming branches (d) need to be bent, hanging weights on them and giving them a horizontal position.
You can minimize pruning and enhance branch growth by vertical installation weak thin shoots by tying them to a conductor:
The main branches should be bent and positioned horizontally in the same way as in the previous case.
If the lower branches of the seedling are located much higher than half a meter, then with the classical pruning scheme indicated above, a high stepladder will be required to care for the apple tree and harvest. To avoid this, you should use a slightly different post-planting pruning scheme, leaving only a bare trunk 75 cm high. When buds appear on it, new branches will grow vertically. It will be necessary to bend them in the manner indicated above, select the central conductor and remove competitive shoots.
If buds appear on the conductor and new shoots form, the main branches will grow poorly. In this case, you will need to lay another conductor and cut off the branches located above it:
With any post-planting pruning, the future “skeleton” of the crown must be determined. To do this it is necessary that:
- the central conductor was dominant;
- all its competitors were removed;
- the main branches were located evenly around it and were equal in strength.
Pruning apple trees in autumn
At this time, pruning is aimed at sanitary cleaning and rejuvenation of apple trees. It must be carried out before the onset of frost so that the cuts have time to heal and do not cause harm to the trees.
First of all, proper pruning of apple trees in the fall involves removing:
- damaged and dried branches;
- competitors growing close and rubbing against each other;
- shoots extending at an angle of less than 30°.
After the work, all cuts and damaged areas must be treated with garden varnish. On old apple trees, this treatment should be carried out immediately, but on young apple trees only after a day, so that the surface dries out a little.
Autumn pruning apple trees can be weak, medium or strong. Weak applies to young trees. In this case, the branches are shortened by a quarter of the length acquired in the spring. Medium pruning is used on apple trees for 5-6 years, removing a third of the length of the branches. Heavy pruning involves shortening branches by half and is a radical way to thin out the crown.
Pruning before fruiting
When pruning a year after planting the apple tree, it is necessary to leave 4-5 branches that grow at the greatest angle to the conductor. These branches will later form the frame of the tree. Additional shoots are removed and the remaining ones are shortened. Maximum length the lower branches should not exceed 3 meters, and those located higher should be somewhat shorter.
For the next few years, pruning should be minimal. It is necessary to cut or shorten only those that violate general scheme branches.
It is imperative to remove damaged branches, as well as cut off overgrown conductor. But he should always be the tallest. When the apple tree reaches required height(3-4 m), the top of the central conductor is cut off, after which one of the upper branches (main or side) begins to play its role.
Pruning fruiting apple trees
When an apple tree ages, its growth practically stops. At the same time, the yield also decreases, since the apples become smaller and fruiting becomes periodic. To rejuvenate a tree, you need to carry out the so-called chasing - trimming the ends of all branches.
For such pruning, it is very important to observe the regularity and timing of the work. If you skip even a year, you will need to shorten large branches, which will lead to active growth of the rest. And if you do not follow the deadlines for pruning apple trees in the fall, then at this age the apple tree may die with the onset of frost, since the cuts on it will be overgrown for quite a long time.
It is also not recommended to cut off the old one too much. neglected apple tree at once. It is necessary to extend this process over several years. Every year it is advisable to remove no more than 1-2 thick branches that have already stopped bearing fruit. In this case, it is important to follow the same scheme as with any other pruning: highlight the central conductor and the main branches. After this, you can gradually thin out the crown, annually cutting off “unnecessary” branches into a ring and leaving a few tops for rejuvenation.
To provide optimal care to take care of your garden and get the maximum yield, you need to know how to properly prune apple trees, when is the best time to do it and what tools to use. The main thing here is not only to follow the recommendations of experts, but also to rely on your own intuition, which every gardener has who puts his soul into his garden.
