How to build a cinder block house with your own hands. Types of blocks, their fillers and binding elements

Much easier than brick, since this material is larger in size and easier to lay. Below you will find information on how to build a cinder block house with your own hands, what materials and tools will be needed for this, how to choose a foundation, build walls and mount a roof.

For construction you need to prepare:

cinder blocks in the required quantity;
cement, sand and crushed stone;
concrete mixer, vibrator, shovels and buckets;
boards for formwork;
metal channel;
floor beams and rafter boards;
roofing material;
reinforcement 10-12 mm thick for the frame;
buckets, shovels, trowel, grater.

Building a house with your own hands

How to build a house with your own hands? First you need to choose the type of foundation for the house.

If you are building a small country house without a basement, you can build a strip foundation, making it shallow. It should be noted that such a foundation can only be built on non-heaving soil.

If the soil on the site is poor, you need to consider the option of constructing a pile foundation. You can use both ordinary reinforced concrete piles and screw ones, which are easier to install.

Schemes for building a house may vary, but it should be noted that it is recommended to build only one-story houses on shallow and pile foundations.

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Construction of a strip foundation

The area where the house will stand is leveled and all large stones are removed. Then they mark it using a thick fishing line with stakes. This type of foundation is called a strip foundation because it is a concrete strip that is located under the walls of the future structure.

According to the markings, a trench is dug to a depth of 80-100 cm. Crushed stone is poured into the trench and compacted. For tamping, it is best to use a simple device that can be easily made yourself from a piece of log, attaching a cross handle to it. A sand cushion is poured onto the crushed stone and also compacted.

After this, formwork from boards is installed. It should rise above ground level by at least 50 cm. Then a power frame should be built from reinforcement 10-12 cm thick. The reinforcement is tied in the form of lattices with cells of 25-30 cm. For fastening, a special knitting wire should be used. The frame is installed inside the formwork. It will give the concrete base additional strength. When everything is ready, the formwork is laid with polyethylene so that water from the concrete mixture does not go into the soil. After this, you can begin making concrete mortar for pouring the foundation.

To prepare concrete you will need:

cement grade M400-M500;
sifted coarse sand;
medium-sized crushed stone;
water;
mixing container or concrete mixer;
buckets, shovels.

Cement is mixed with sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:3:5. The solution should not be too thick or thin. It is necessary to take into account that the foundation must be poured in one go so that there are no seams on it. The presence of seams affects the strength of the concrete strip. Therefore, it is recommended to use a concrete mixer. If this is not possible, then the help of 2-3 people is needed to quickly mix the required amount of mortar and quickly pour it into the formwork.

As the solution is poured, it should be compacted so that it disperses between the rods of the load-bearing frame. If it is possible to use a vibrator, then it is immersed in the concrete as it is poured. If there is no vibrator, then the solution is pierced with a shovel bayonet, doing this many times.

When the solution is poured into the formwork, the drying process begins. The concrete mixture dries and gains the necessary strength within 4-6 weeks, and during this time the foundation should not be left abandoned. It can become dry from the sun or wet from the rain. This will make the concrete less strong. Therefore, in hot weather it is covered with wet rags, and in rain - with plastic wrap. As soon as the concrete gains strength, you can begin directly building a house from cinder blocks, that is, building walls.

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Cinder block house: building walls

Before laying the first row, waterproofing is laid on the concrete strip (Fig. 3). You can lay 2 layers of roofing felt or use some other waterproofing material. A cement mortar is prepared from 1 part cement and 3 parts fine-grained, well-sifted sand. First, cinder blocks are placed along the edges of the future row and a rope is pulled between them. This will allow the row to lay flat. It must be taken into account that the location of all other rows of masonry depends on the first row, so it must be laid out as carefully as possible.

You should determine in advance where the windows and doors will be located. For above door or window openings, use a metal channel placed on the wall. Having raised the walls of the house to the required height, you need to prepare for the construction of the ceiling. To do this, scraps of wire are implanted into the penultimate row of masonry, to which the beams will be attached.

Appearing less than 50 years ago, the method of constructing structures from cinder blocks has gained wide popularity. All thanks to the simplicity and high speed of installation. To make construction even more economical, many decide to build a cinder block house with their own hands. With a minimum of tools, following technology, you can build a warm, reliable, durable structure.

Construction will require a certain number of cinder blocks. You can make them yourself. This will require special forms in large quantities, since drying will take place directly in them. Using filler, water and cement, a mixture is created that is distributed into molds. To form voids in the blocks, you can use glass bottles or metal and wooden blanks.

The entire manufacturing process will take about a month. Therefore, if the speed of construction is important to you, and you also have the necessary funds, then it is better to purchase ready-made material. It must be certified and have the appropriate documents. Experts recommend paying attention to the following points:

Use of environmentally friendly fillers in the production.
These include shell rock, shavings and crushed stone. All bundles with cinder blocks must be identical and without defects.
You should carefully study the quality characteristics, such as resistance to low temperatures, strength, thermal conductivity, so that building a house from a cinder block with your own hands will bring maximum results.
Take an interest in the manufacturing technology. When purchasing material for the construction of a residential structure, pay attention to the use of a vibration compacting machine. If other devices were used during production, then such cinder blocks are suitable only for outbuildings.
Pay attention to the color of the blocks. Gray indicates a large amount of cement. If a different shade predominates, then this is a sign of using a large amount of filler, which is unacceptable for such a building material.

Construction experts advise checking the quality before building a cinder block house with your own hands. This can be done using a regular 1.5 cm nail. If it goes into the bottom of the block, then its quality is in doubt. You can also drop it from a height of 1.5 meters. A reliable cinder block will remain intact or its corners will be slightly knocked off. If the material has crumbled or broken, then it should not be used for construction.

Calculation of the number of blocks

The result of building a house from slag concrete with your own hands from scratch largely depends on the correct calculation of building materials. It should be borne in mind that masonry can take place using different technologies:

to the floor of a stone (20cm);
in one (40 cm);
in two (80 cm);
one and a half (60 cm).

This choice will depend on the climate zone. In a temperate climate, half a stone may be sufficient, but in regions with harsh winters a thickness of at least 60 cm will be required.

The required number of cinder blocks is calculated using the following algorithm:

First you need to calculate the cost of building materials per meter of wall. The standard area of one cinder block is 0.08 m². That is, 12.5 blocks are required per 1 m. If you lay a cinder block house with your own hands in two rows, then we multiply the resulting figure by half.
Next you need to calculate the area of the entire building. To do this, its perimeter must be multiplied by its height.
To find out the final number of cinder blocks, you need to multiply the number for one meter by the resulting area.

When making calculations, you should not take into account window and door openings. This will be a reserve, since rejection or damage to building materials is possible.

Laying the foundation

When building a cinder block house with your own hands, it is worth laying a fairly high foundation. This is due to the fact that under the influence of moisture the blocks can collapse, resulting in damage to the entire structure. The minimum height should be 70 cm. The best option is a strip foundation.

The main stages of laying the foundation:

A pit is being dug out. In cases where a basement is planned, it should be deep.
A cushion of gravel and sand half a meter thick is laid.
The sheathing and metal frame are installed.
Cement mortar is poured.

If you plan to build a basement, you can start it a week after pouring. The house itself is erected after complete drying. This may take about a month. Important! It is necessary to take care of waterproofing between the plinth and cinder blocks to prevent their damage from moisture.

Walling

At this stage, the most important nuance is alignment. Therefore, after laying the first row, it is necessary to carefully check this point using a level.

As for laying cinder blocks, it is done quite quickly. You should have a mallet on hand for tamping, a trowel for removing excess mortar, and a spatula.

It is necessary to monitor the thickness of the applied solution. It should not exceed 1.5 cm. Otherwise, the thermal characteristics of a cinder block house built with your own hands will deteriorate. To increase the strength of the mixture, a plasticizer is added to it. It will also help slow down drying, resulting in new mortar needing to be mixed less frequently.

The blocks must be laid at a temperature not lower than 15°C in dry weather.

The rows are laid offset to the floor of the block. To increase the strength of the structure, you can use reinforcement that is inserted into specially prepared recesses in cinder blocks every 4 rows.

How to insulate a house?

Since external insulation is much more effective than internal insulation, it is worth taking care of this already at the construction stage. In addition, installation of insulation will create reliable protection for cinder blocks. The most economical and fairly effective option is foam insulation. If you carry out internal insulation using this material, a vapor barrier will be required. It is not needed for external thermal insulation.

You need to do the following:

Putty the walls.
Secure the insulation. This can be done on a metal strip, the role of which can be played by drywall profiles. The foam should be laid tightly so that there are no gaps between the seams.
Apply a reinforcing mesh to prevent the appearance of defects due to mechanical stress.
Level the surface and finish. Finishing work is carried out using bark beetle or decorative plaster.
Paint the walls.

It is also possible to insulate with mineral wool. In this case, you can cover the house with siding. If financial capabilities allow, you can purchase polyurethane foam. This insulation is applied by spraying, as a result of which there are no joints, therefore, the thermal insulation characteristics are improved.

Roof

You need to install a roof on the finished frame of a cinder block house with your own hands in a short time. This is necessary to protect cinder blocks from negative atmospheric phenomena. This process can be carried out simultaneously with insulation.

The most common roofing option is the gable roof. The installation process includes the following steps:

To begin with, a mauerlat is mounted, the so-called base, on which the rafter system will rest. Here you should think about waterproofing to prevent wood from rotting from rain and snow.
The rafter system is being assembled. This process is standard. The rafters form the shape of the letter A. But in the case of cinder block houses, it is necessary to use additional posts and beams so that the walls are not under constant tension.
Next, the ceiling beams are installed.
Then the trusses are installed. It is important to choose the right size so that they can withstand the roofing material. It is also necessary to ensure that they are identical.
After this, the hydraulic barrier is tightened. A special membrane is used for this.
The sheathing is installed and covered with roofing material.
The final stage is insulation. It will help reduce heat loss by another 15-20%.

Advantages and disadvantages of cinder block houses

Cinder block housing is very attractive due to its features:

It is quickly erected, while the costs are minimal when compared with other materials.
There is no need to lay a massive foundation.
The material used for construction is easy to store and transport.
The quality of the constructed house is in no way inferior to structures made from other materials, if the technology is followed correctly.

But with all the advantages, there are also disadvantages:

Moisture is harmful to cinder blocks.
This material does not provide an adequate level of sound and heat insulation.
The material is not as attractive as, for example, wood.

It is worth noting that these disadvantages are easily compensated for. Proper laying of the foundation and construction in dry weather will help solve the moisture problem. At the construction stage, you can use mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, which will help achieve the required level of heat and sound insulation. And modern finishing materials will give your home an attractive appearance.

A do-it-yourself cinder block house is an excellent alternative to buildings made from other materials, which helps you save money and get quality housing in a short time.

When you start construction, you want everything to be done as quickly, cheaply and reliably as possible. All these factors can be satisfied by a do-it-yourself cinder block house. This building material can be made independently. We will consider both the technology of its production and the construction process from marking to installation of the roof.

Advantages and disadvantages

cinder block

At a certain point in time, cinder block became very popular. This is explained by the fact that the waste material that remained after smelting the metal had to be used somewhere. They decided to use it as a filler for construction components. This is how this artificial stone appeared. But then it was not distinguished by the best qualities, because from an environmental point of view it had certain shortcomings. It had to be kept outside for about a year and only then put into work. Today the situation is a little different and it seems that it is the most popular material for the construction of low-rise buildings. Its strengths are:

Long service life. With the right approach, the stone will last about 100 years.
Good thermal insulation. Thanks to the manufacturing method with air chambers, the material retains heat perfectly.
High construction speed. Thanks to the large dimensions, walls can be built much faster than with conventional brick.
Resistance to the development of fungus and mold.
Possibility of an individual approach to sizes.
The material is unloved by rodents and other pests.
A house made of such material is easy to repair.

Lightweight blocks with decorative finishes

Flaws:

Absorbs moisture well, which leads to loss of heat capacity.
Poor adhesion of plaster to this building block.
Impossibility of constructing a building of more than 2 floors.
The need to quickly erect a roof. The fact is that exposed walls cannot be left uncovered for a long time, as this will lead to their rapid destruction.
The importance of strict adherence to masonry technology.
The need for a high foundation.
It is important to carry out construction work in dry weather.
Poor tolerance to building shrinkage. In this case, splitting is possible not at the seams, but at the blocks themselves.

Standard blocks

If you decide to purchase cinder blocks, there are several nuances that are worth paying attention to. It’s good if it is possible to take measurements with a dosimeter. Thanks to this, you can determine how environmentally friendly the material is. Look at the conditions in which it was stored. It is important that it is not an open space where it is exposed to precipitation. There should be no chips or cracks on it. Using a tape measure, you need to check its dimensions. The parallel sides must match.

Machine for making cinder blocks

The manufacturing technology is quite simple. To successfully advance in this direction, it will be necessary to acquire some equipment, as well as accurately observe the proportions. So, the first step is to design a vibratory rammer. For this you will need:

sheet metal 3 mm thick;
pipe with a diameter of 75–80 mm;
Bulgarian;
welding machine;
roulette;
electric motor to create vibration.

The motor from the washing machine is attached

The motor can be used from an old washing machine or from a sharpening machine. No more power required. The main thing is to correctly place the weight, which will shift the center of gravity.

The sequence of work will be as follows:

Blanks are cut from metal. Two of them have dimensions of 200x400 mm, the other two have dimensions of 200x200 mm.
They need to be welded together to form a small box.
Three pipe sections of 170 mm each are cut. The length is smaller so that the thickness of the bottom wall is at least 30 mm.
Cuts are made along the end of the sleeves to a depth of 50 mm. One of the sides is given the appearance of a truncated cone.
At the other end, cuts are made to a depth of 50 mm. They contain a strip of metal 400 mm long. It connects all three elements to each other.
The ends of the pipes are closed with plugs.
This structure is placed in a box and secured to the walls.
A side is welded onto the upper end of the container to make it more convenient to fill and compact the solution.
Additionally, you can make a mechanism with which the box will lift up. To do this, you can use a profile square pipe. If you don’t want to complicate things, then it’s enough to weld two handles on the sides of the box.
The motor is attached to the larger side. To do this, four bolts are welded to the wall so that their location coincides with the holes on the body of the device. It is pressed using washers and nuts of suitable diameter.
Additionally, a cover is made that improves compaction. It will require a sheet of metal 195×395 mm. It is necessary to make holes in it for the pipes (they should be 5 mm larger than the diameter of the sleeves) and cut into two parts lengthwise. This must be done so that it sinks quietly and does not rest against the partition that secures the hollows. The parts are connected to each other using brackets made from reinforcement. It is also necessary to make a depth limiter that will prevent it from immersing deeper than 5 cm.
In order to speed up work, you can combine several of these containers with each other.
Two bolts are welded onto the motor shaft on both sides. This must be done symmetrically. In the future, to adjust the frequency and strength of vibrations, it will be enough to tighten the required number of nuts.
The final touch will be careful polishing and painting. It is necessary to do this so that the solution subsequently lags behind better.

Machines for the production of various cinder blocks

Today there are many options for ready-made machines on sale. If you do not want to waste time and energy, then you can simply buy or rent it.

Making cinder block

The key to durable and resistant to various influences is a properly prepared solution. If using a tamping machine, it must be sufficiently dry. If you incorrectly calculate the proportions of water, then after lifting the container it will simply disintegrate. As a filler, you can use ash from burnt coal, broken bricks, small crushed stone, slag, etc. To provide additional resistance to moisture, plasticizers are used. The first version of the mixture will be like this:

9:1 - cement and slag, which is well sifted so that there are no unnecessary inclusions;
water should make up about half of the cement.

Second cooking method:

4:4:1 - industrial granulated slag, fine crushed stone, cement;
water the same ratio as for the first option.

The best consistency can be roughly determined as follows: you need to take the prepared solution and squeeze it in your hand. It must keep its shape. If you then throw it on the ground, it should spread. Once you squeeze it again, it should hold its shape again.

The best place for work will be open air. Under such conditions, the solution will dry and set faster, which will increase productivity. It is advisable that the place be level. This could be a concrete path or a lining made from sheet metal, boards knocked together into panels, etc. The block preparation process will be as follows:

The unit is installed in the place from which the laying will begin.
The prepared mixture is poured inside. Its quantity should be greater than the actual capacity.
The vibrator motor turns on for a few seconds. Some of the solution shrinks, so you need to add more.
The vibrator starts again for a few seconds. A finishing bedding is made and the upper end is closed with a lid.
Compaction is being done. If the lid has reached the stops, you can lift the container.
Complete setting takes a period of 4 to 9 days.
Finished products can be stored indoors. You need to move them there after a day of drying outside. If the composition contains a plasticizer, then after 6 hours.
For greater convenience, they can be stacked on top of each other.
They will be ready for the construction process in 1–2 months.

Partition cinder block

Often partition walls are laid out from blocks that are smaller in size. To make them, it will be necessary to make a mold according to a similar principle, as described above, but its dimensions will be 120x400x200 mm. It is better to use rectangular inserts as void formers. They should be of such a size that the walls are at least 3 cm.

Calculation of the number of blocks

When calculating blocks, you need to take into account doors and windows

Projects must be approached rationally. There is no point in being overly economical, as this will affect the quality of the future building. There is also no reason for excessive wastefulness. This is especially true for the number of blocks. You should start your calculations by deciding on the thickness of the wall. This size is determined by several factors, such as climatic conditions and soil conditions. If in winter the temperature drops too low, then it may be necessary to make a wall of 40-60 cm. In other areas, 20 cm will be enough, which will also be insulated with polystyrene foam or penoplex. Laying can be done in several ways:

Half a stone. This does not mean that the block will need to be cut into two parts. This means that it lies lengthwise. That is, in the case described, this is a thickness of 20 cm.
A whole stone. This is the one that lies across, and the wall is 40 cm.
One and a half stones. By simple addition we find out that it is 60 cm.
Two stones - 80 cm.

Let's assume that a project has been chosen for a future house with dimensions of 10x12 m, one-story with a wall height of 3 m. The first step is to calculate the total area of the walls. To do this, multiply the length by the width. 3×10=30 m2, 12×3=36 m2, now we double and add these results, since there are two identical planes. 30×2+36×2=132 m2. So the final result is 132 m2. We determine the area of one block - 0.2×0.4=0.08 m2. Let's divide the total area of the walls by the area of the block - 132:0.08=1650. But this figure is valid if the wall is planned to be made of one stone. If it is two, then the final result will be 3300 blocks.

These calculations deliberately do not take into account the openings that will be made for windows and doors. This is done so that there is a small margin. While working with material, there may be rejection, and our surplus compensates for this.

The amount of stone for partition walls is calculated in the same way. In fact, the final figure will be the sum of the blocks for the main walls and internal ones.

Laying the foundation

Recessed strip foundation

As mentioned above, a structure of this type requires a high foundation. In addition, it must be very durable so that cracks do not begin to form, which will certainly pass through the entire wall. The work will be carried out in the following order:

The area selected for construction is carefully inspected. It is better to find out in advance in which part of the site the groundwater is at a lower level. That's exactly what she'll do.
Everything that clutters it is tidied up, the grass is mowed to the minimum possible level. This is necessary to assess the overall slope and make markings.
According to the drawing, guidelines for the size of the future building are transferred to the area.

Site marking

One peg is driven into each corner.
The correct dimensions are checked. In addition to length and width, diagonals are also measured - they must match so that the shape is regular and not trapezoidal (if this is not provided for by the project).
Holders for the guide line are made. To do this, you will need 16 wooden blocks of arbitrary size, but with a length of at least 90-100 cm. You will need 8 more small boards. Their length should be 10–15 cm greater than the width of the foundation. A crossbar for two bars is made from boards. The result should be a P-shaped design.
Two self-tapping screws are screwed onto each crossbar. The distance between them should be equal to the width of the foundation.
All elements must be driven into the ground. It is important to do this at such a level that the screws are at a height of 70 cm above the surface. The order of the stands is two at each corner so that they are opposite each other in pairs.
A fishing line or twine is stretched between the elements. It is more convenient to use fishing line that has a bright color. It does not get lost against the background of surrounding objects.
At this stage, it is necessary to once again check the diagonals between the corners formed by the stretched thread.
A trench is dug. Its depth should be 50 cm below soil freezing.
Sand is poured to a height of 25 cm. It is leveled and compacted well. After this, you need to wet it with water and let it dry. If necessary, you need to supplement the level.
Another 25 cm is filled with crushed stone. This layer also compacts well. Tamping is best done using a special electric or gasoline tool.

Foundation reinforcement

Next, a metal grate is made. For a foundation of the planned height, two or three elements will be required. To work, you will need ribbed reinforcement with a diameter of 10–12 mm. It is better to assemble the structure on the surface. Its dimensions should be such that it is immersed in concrete by 5 cm on each side. That is, the total length and height must be at least 10 cm less than the length and height of the foundation. Several rods are laid out over the total length. The distance between the horizontal components should not exceed 30 cm. If there are no strips of the required length, then you can get from several. In this case, the binding between them must be at least 1 m. Staples are made from smaller rods. Their height should be equal to the size of the planned sheathing, and the folded elements should be the width of the structure. They are attached to the laid out elements every 30-40 cm. Instead of brackets, you can make ordinary vertical jumpers. They are fixed to each other with knitting wire. The same number of longitudinal rods is attached to the inside from above as from below.
Typically, the height of one such structure is 40–50 cm.
Stands are laid at the bottom of the pit, which will allow the concrete to cover the reinforced base from below. For these purposes, you can use bricks or other homogeneous elements. Minimum height - 5 cm.
Formwork is made from edged boards knocked into panels, plywood or other durable material. It must be strong enough to withstand the pressure that the concrete will exert. Be sure to install jibs that will be stops on the outside. The distance between the panels must be the same so that the foundation is formed without sagging.
After the preparatory work, you need to prepare a solution for pouring. You need to make sure in advance that you have an assistant and a productive concrete mixer; you can use several. This is very important because it is necessary to ensure good volume. Thanks to this, the structure will turn out to be monolithic and not layered, which will reduce strength. The composition of the mixture will be 3:1:3 - crushed stone, Portland cement, sand. Portland cement is perfect for such purposes. The fact is that it contains calcium silicate and gypsum additives. Thanks to this, quick setting occurs and strength is ensured. Be sure to add a plasticizer, this will improve the fluidity and filling of voids, increase frost resistance, and also moisture resistance.

Compacting concrete with a vibrator

Periodically during pouring it is necessary to perform treatment with a vibrator. This way the concrete is better compacted and the structure subsequently gains maximum strength.
During pouring, you must also try to distribute all the concrete level. Subsequently, this will help you cope with the walls faster.
If the weather is hot enough, then it is necessary to moisten the surface generously with water; it would also be good to cover the foundation with construction film or pieces of roofing felt.
With a high rate of hardening, the formwork can be removed within a week.
It is better to continue further work after a month. This is exactly the period of time required for the cement-sand mixture to gain all its strength.

If you decide not to pour such a high foundation, as described earlier, then you need to take care of constructing the base. This is a continuation of the foundation that protrudes above the surface of the earth. It is important to remember that before you start laying it, it is necessary to provide waterproofing. To do this, roofing material or bicrost is laid on the foundation. The height of such a structure should reach 70 cm or more. Next, a layer of waterproofing is laid on it again and only after that the construction of walls begins.

Walling

When erecting walls, the main task is to ensure that they turn out smooth, without protrusions. The first step towards this result is to determine the highest corner of the foundation. The fact is that during pouring it is difficult to derive the ideal value. This measurement is made using a water level. You need to make sure in advance that its length is enough to cover the length of the foundation.

An arbitrary angle is selected. One flask of the device is installed on it. The other part moves to different ends. Thanks to the difference in the position of the water, you can determine where the highest point is. Laying and leveling should begin from here. It is very important to do this, because if you start construction from the lowest point, you will have to subsequently trim the stones. If you do this with the highest one, it will be enough to simply make the seam a little larger.
Having set the starting point, you can do the same for the remaining corners. For this you will need the same hydraulic level. The task will be to place 4 more stones so that in all planes they coincide with the reference one. Additionally, you can check the diagonals.

There is a fishing line stretched along the outer edge of the wall

A fishing line or twine is stretched along the outer edge of the wall. It will help make the wall level in the horizontal plane. It must be raised to the height of one row and after each new one rearranged to the same level. During work, you must ensure that the landmark is not pressed or touched by anything, otherwise it will be of no use.
To maintain the verticality of the wall, you can use several tools. For example, after laying each row, check the level using a building level. An ordinary plumb line will also serve as a guide. If you don’t want to tinker with such devices, then you can build stationary support points. To do this, metal pipes are buried in the ground and come close to the wall. They are aligned in planes and fixed. Thanks to them it will be possible to control the process.
The solution has good thermal conductivity, so it can cause significant heat loss. To reduce this value, it will be enough to control its layer. It is better if it does not exceed 1.5 cm.

Adding a plasticizer to the solution

If you do not have much experience in masonry, then add a special plasticizer to the cement-sand mixture, which will slow down its setting. This will help you calmly display each element without having to redo it later.
Do not try to fill cavities in the stone with mortar, this will only worsen its properties. If desired, they can be filled with loose insulation.
Every 3-5 rows it is necessary to insert a metal mesh. It will increase the rigidity of the entire structure.

When laying the last few rows, you must remember to wall up the studs. It will be good if you can bend them and tie them with the seam of one of the rows. They should protrude above the surface to a distance exceeding 4 cm the height of the mauerlat beam. The step can be kept at 1 m or less. Rolled wire can be used instead of pins. Another option would be to fill the armored belt and install studs in it.

Roofing production

Installation of the rafter system and laying of the flooring should be started as soon as possible after finishing the walls. Before choosing the desired shape of the future roof, it is necessary to analyze what the maximum amount of precipitation can fall and what gusts of wind there are. You also need to take into account what buildings or trees are nearby. Usually all data can be obtained from the relevant services. This information will affect what angle you need to maintain.

If the area is famous for the presence of strong gusts of wind, then the roof slope must be maintained in the region of 15–20°. Even with fairly heavy snow drifts, the layer will not remain, it will simply blow up. In the case where the area is quiet, but there is a lot of precipitation, then the optimal solution would be a spread of 35–40°. With such a slope, snow will not be able to be retained in large layers.

On private houses, a gable roof or all sorts of variations of multi-pitched roofs look great. We will look at an example of the construction of the first option. If the principle is well understood, then you can move on to more complex designs.

The installation begins with the installation of the base - the Mauerlat. They can be used to tie the longitudinal walls on which the rafters will rest. Or install it around the entire perimeter, which will facilitate the construction of the pediment if it is wooden and not brick. To do this, you will need a beam with a cross-section from 50×150 mm to 200×200 mm. It should be placed in the middle or no closer than 5 cm to the edge. A layer of waterproofing must be laid underneath it, which will prevent the accumulation of moisture and rotting of the wood. Holes are drilled at the locations of the studs. The boards are secured with nuts and washers or knots using wire.
At its core, a rafter system is a construction kit that includes a large number of parts. In shape, it resembles the letter A. In this case, the beams act in tension, that is, the force is applied in such a way that the walls are under constant tension. This option is not very good for a cinder block house, so it is advisable to use additional connecting elements. They are racks and beds.
The first step is to install the ceiling beams. After this, the entire area can be covered with film to prevent rainwater from entering the building.
Next, lay the beds on which the racks will rest. They must run parallel to the Mauerlat. The distance between them will depend on how the attic space will be used. They can be made from the same timber as the base.

Rafter structure

The rafter legs are connected to each other using nails or nail plates. In some cases, metal staples are additionally used. If they need to be lengthened, it is better to do this with an overlap; it should be about 1 m.
There can be two or more crossbars. It is important to remember that the distance between them should be no more than 50 cm.
The trusses must be the same size to support the roof plane. You can collect them both on the building and below. In most cases, the second option turns out to be safer and more reliable.
Two finished elements rise to the top. They are installed along the ends of the roof and secured with temporary spacers.
Three fishing lines are stretched between them. One goes along the upper corner, the other two - from the middle of each side. These will serve as guidelines for how the next trusses will be installed. Instead of fishing line, you can use a ridge board. It is important to place it on temporary supports and check that it is level in the plane.
All other trusses are installed. To prevent them from moving, jumpers are installed, which will then be removed. The pitch between the rafter legs must be maintained in such a way that will facilitate easy installation of the insulation.
The entire area on top is covered with a hydrobarrier membrane.
What material needs to be used for the sheathing is usually indicated in the recommendations for the flooring that you plan to use.
The last step will be insulating the roof. This is usually done using mineral wool. This is a very important stage, because it will reduce heat loss and reduce costs for various types of fuel.

It is better to close the gables as quickly as possible. This must be done to prevent the wind from blowing precipitation inside. This way moisture will not accumulate and destroy the building material.

Interior and exterior finishing

Exterior finishing

It is advisable not to leave the walls bare for a long period. Their finishing can be carried out in parallel with roofing work. For the outside, the ideal solution would be insulation using polystyrene foam. It is attached using special umbrella dowels. It's better to start from the bottom. The first step is to install the metal starting bar. Its role can be a profile for drywall. It needs to be set according to the level, which will simplify the task in the future. A hole is drilled in the wall through a sheet of insulation using a hammer drill. Glue is applied to the back of the insulation; ordinary polyurethane foam with low expansion can act as it. Each element should fit tightly to the previous one. During installation, it is advisable to check the evenness of the surface using a level. After this, the entire surface is covered with glue intended for this purpose. Along with its application, a reinforcing mesh is laid, which will prevent the appearance of dents from impacts. The last layer will be the decorative finish. It could be bark beetle or relief plaster.

Covering a house with siding

The house can be covered with siding. In this case, mineral wool can also be used for insulation. A product with a high density, such as polystyrene foam, is suitable. First, the sheathing is installed under the cladding. After this, insulation is placed in the space between the beams. You can attach it to the wall in the same way as polystyrene foam.

As noted above, it will be almost impossible to use plaster for interior decoration. But this is not a problem, because You can sheathe rooms using plasterboard. This will allow you to compensate for any unevenness and also apply the desired finish to it. It is important to take care of the vapor barrier so that moisture does not seep into the cinder block.

To complete all this work it will take a sufficient amount of time. But with good organization and planning, you can meet a reasonable deadline. It's always interesting to look at finished projects. Share your observations and suggestions in the comments to this article.

In this video you will see how you can make a cinder block at home:

Watch the process of laying cinder blocks:

cinder block house

Cinder block house and garage

The house is built from blocks with decorative finishing

House with extension

Two-story cinder block house

This house will have a ventilated facade

This cinder block house is many years old.

Houses made from cinder blocks are becoming more and more popular every year. The cinder block method was developed in the 70s of the 20th century and became famous due to its simple and fast construction process. Building a house from cinder blocks with your own hands is an opportunity to save money and become the owner of a reliable and warm home.

To build a house from cinder blocks, it is not necessary to turn to professional builders; you can study the cinder block construction method and do everything yourself. First, develop a project, calculate how much material you will need, and you can get to work.

Advantages and disadvantages

Before you start creating a project and building a house, you need to learn about the pros and cons of buildings made from cinder blocks.

Advantages of cinder block houses:

Saving money. This material is much cheaper than brick and wood, especially if you produce it yourself.
A cinder block house does not require a massive foundation.
The material does not impose any special requirements for storage and transportation.
The construction is reliable and does not differ in quality from houses built from other materials.

But there is also two significant drawbacks:

The material is afraid of water, so you can build a house only in dry weather, and then plaster the walls well.
To ensure the required level of noise and heat insulation, it is necessary to responsibly select materials. If this stage of construction is not done correctly, moisture will seep into the cinder block.

Foundation for a cinder block house

Main requirements for the foundation: it must be high to protect the house from moisture, which cinder block is so afraid of, and well insulated. If the house is one-story and without reinforced concrete floors, then the foundation does not have to be made super strong.

To build the foundation for a cinder block house you will need: crushed stone, cement, gravel, reinforcement, sand, concrete mixer, cinder blocks, opata, level, hydro- and vapor barrier material.

This process is carried out in several stages:

Dig a trench and make a bed of sand and gravel about 50cm high.
Install the formwork and make a reinforced frame.
Prepare a concrete solution: mix 3 parts sand and crushed stone and 1 part cement. Fill the prepared structure with it.

Construction of the base, if provided, can begin after 7 days, and the construction of walls can only be done after complete drying (after approximately 1 month).

Walling

First, the corners are set so that the walls are perfectly even. One cinder block is placed in each corner, then it is leveled with a building level. Stretch the twine along which you will lay out the walls. Before starting work, prepare:

a mallet for hammering cinder blocks;
trowel for removing excess mortar on seams;
plasticizer (this material is added to the solution to increase its strength and ductility);
circular saw or hacksaw for cutting cinder blocks;
orders, plumb lines and spatulas.

Cinder block is laid using one of the traditional methods:

tychkovy (one stone);
spoon (half a stone);
one and a half stones;
two stones.

Important to remember, that laying cinder blocks can only be done at temperatures above 15 degrees. After the preparatory work, build the first row of blocks. The height of the seam should not be more than 1.5 cm, otherwise it will lead to a deterioration in the thermal insulation properties. Do not fill cinder block voids with cement!

When erecting the first three rows, check the wall with a level as often as possible; it must be strictly vertical. Cinder blocks are laid offset by ½ block.

To avoid cracks and make the structure stronger, builders advise using reinforcement. To do this you will need fittings and electric cutters or wall chasers. Using electric milling machines, recesses are made in cinder blocks, reinforcement is inserted into them and cement mortar is poured. This procedure is repeated every fourth row.

Video of building a house from cinder blocks, masonry.

Once the walls are erected, you can begin building the roof. This process cannot be delayed for a long time, so as not to expose the cinder blocks to the harmful effects of precipitation. The same applies to external and internal finishing works.

How to insulate a house?

To make your home comfortable in cold weather, you need take care of the insulation of buildings And. Experts say that it is better to insulate a building from the outside, as this guarantees 70% of the effect; sometimes internal insulation is not even required.

Before internal insulation, a vapor barrier layer is installed on the walls and ceiling of the building, after which mineral wool or expanded polystyrene can be used. Vapor barrier is not needed for finishing external walls.

If you want to save on insulation, then use polystyrene foam. This is the cheapest material; later it is plastered and painted. You can also buy expanded polystyrene, which has a low level of water absorption, so there is no need to install a vapor barrier layer.

Insulation of walls with foam plastic and decorative work are carried out in 5 stages:

The walls are being plastered.
Styrofoam is attached.
Reinforced mesh is being installed.
Work is underway to level and finish the walls.
The building is being painted.

For painting, it is better to choose acrylic or silicone plaster. And if you are not limited in finances, then for insulation it is better to purchase polyurethane foam - a modern material that is applied to the walls by pouring or spraying. The result is a coating without seams; it does not allow cold air and moisture to pass through.

How to calculate the number of cinder blocks per house?

If you are building a house from cinder blocks, then first you need to calculate the amount of material. Those who produce the building material themselves can make the missing amount at any time, it is only important to remember that the blocks will take time to become strong.

To calculate the number of cinder blocks you need to know the thickness of the wall. It may differ depending on the climatic conditions of the region where the house is being built. In the middle zone, a thickness of 20-40 cm is sufficient, and in order for the house to retain heat in harsh winters, the size must be at least 60 cm.

When calculating remember basic construction terms: half a stone (20 cm), a stone (40 cm), one and a half stones (60 cm), two stones (80 cm).

Let's carry out calculations based on the most common parameters that are used when building a house from cinder blocks. For example, you need to build a 9x7 building, the height of the walls is 3 meters. The area of one cinder block is 0.08 m (0.4x0.2).

The first thing to do is calculate the number of blocks per 1 meter of wall. For this, 1/0.08 sq.m., it turns out 12.5 pieces. The wall will be built from two rows, so 12.5x2=25 cinder blocks. Now let’s calculate the area of the house: (9+9+7+7)x3=96 sq.m. 9 and 7 are the length of the walls, and 3 is the height. For each square meter you need 25 cinder blocks, which means for the construction of the entire house: 25x96 = 2400 pieces.

The calculations do not take into account openings, but this is not necessary. Cinder block is a fragile material, so you need to take it with a reserve.

House construction price

How much does it cost to build a cinder block house? You can build a house from cinder blocks with your own hands, but do not forget about developing the project. You can do this yourself or entrust it to professionals. The main thing is to take into account climatic conditions and soil characteristics, as well as the stability of the building.

The average cost of one cinder block is 35 rubles. For a 9x7 house you will need 2400 pieces, that is, this material will cost 84 thousand rubles. But this is only the construction of walls; we should also not forget about the construction of the foundation, roofing, sound and heat insulation, and finishing work.

Is it worth building?

Many of them are satisfied with the construction process, because the house can be built during the holidays. Save on the material itself and mortar, which costs half as much as brickwork. Houses made from this material look original, are warm in winter and cool in summer.

Cinder block houses- These are reliable and durable buildings. Their construction will not require a lot of time and financial expenses, especially if you produce cinder blocks yourself. But in order for the building to last a long time, and to live in it comfortably, you need to choose the right materials for insulation and finishing.

Building a house from cinder blocks (wall blocks) made by yourself is quite possible. In addition, this is a quick and cost-effective option for constructing a low-rise building.

How to make a cinder block with your own hands at home?

We will need:

special molds for filling, made of wood or metal. There should be a lot of them, since we will dry the blocks directly in them;
cement grade 400 or 500. The strength of cement will depend only on you, because when creating a house project, you calculated all the loads on the walls, roof and ceilings;
plain water;
fillers (expanded clay, sawdust, sand, furnace slag or perlite, etc.),
any devices (these can be special blanks made of wood, metal or ordinary glass bottles), with the help of which we will create voids in the wall blocks.

Mix the solution for filling molds in the following proportions: sand-cement-filler 3:1:5. We place bottles or blanks in the molds where we planned to get the voids and fill them with the prepared solution. When the mixture has set sufficiently (after 5-6 hours), the blanks (bottles) can be removed.

Leave the mold in this form for 24 hours for the mixture to set. After the specified period of time, we release the blocks from the molds and again pour the slag concrete solution into them.

We stack the finished blocks to dry so that they acquire the strength of concrete (dry for 28-30 days). And only after all this will we use cinder blocks to build a house.

Building a house with your own hands from cinder blocks - the main stages

Foundation preparation

The foundation of the house should be high (75 cm above the ground), treated with coating liquid waterproofing quite well, and it does not have to be made of reinforced monolithic concrete (provided that you have not planned several floors).

The first stage of our construction looks like this: we install formwork on a cushion (about 50 cm high) of crushed stone and sand and fill everything with concrete mixture.

The foundation concrete will set in about 7 days. Then you can make the basement of the house, but we begin to build the walls only after the concrete has completely hardened, after about 30 days.

It should be noted that it is imperative to make high-quality horizontal waterproofing between the plinth and cinder blocks.

Walling

In order for the walls to be guaranteed smooth, it is necessary to set the corners. Therefore, we lay a cinder block in each corner and level the corner with a building level. Then we stretch twine around the perimeter, along which we will lay out the walls.

A plasticizer should be added to the masonry mortar; this will increase the strength of the structure being erected, and will also extend the life of the mortar before it begins to harden, thus, new portions will be mixed less frequently.

A thick layer of mortar should not be applied between cinder blocks, so as not to create additional cold bridges in the masonry. A layer of up to approximately 15 mm is recommended.

A mallet (rubber hammer) weighing 600 grams will also not be amiss. for tamping blocks. Excess mortar on the seams should be removed using a trowel.

Completion of construction

We finished laying the walls, let them dry completely - it’s time to build the next floor and roof. This is where you need to take into account the weight of the rafters and floors.

It is advisable to strengthen the top row of wall blocks with an iron belt if we use something much heavier than wood for interfloor floors.

But there is no need to delay the construction of the roof in order to protect the open walls from precipitation. We do not delay both the interior and exterior finishing; it is advisable to additionally insulate the house from the outside with extruded polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam or basalt slabs.

P.S. And for dessert, I suggest you watch the video: Building a house from cinder block

Building a house with your own hands from a cinder block is considered a fairly convenient and fast way of construction, but any fact has both positive and negative sides, this is what we will try to figure out. We will also think about how to make this building material on our site.

House made of cinder block - choosing material

For small buildings this material is considered the most convenient and practical. In addition, the cheapness of cinder blocks has long been known; this fact becomes even more noticeable if you produce building blocks right on your site. Further, the advantages of this material only continue to pour in, for example, you don’t even have to be a professional mason to successfully build a house from cinder block. With the right technology, you will also get a “warm” house, because air cavities will become the best insulator.

But there are also disadvantages to this material, for example, it is very afraid of water, so you will have to guess the weather and after construction thoroughly plaster the walls; craftsmen advise making a layer of up to 2 cm on one side and the other. This “fear” is also reflected on the foundation, or rather on its insulation and height. To prevent moisture from reaching the blocks, you need to make the foundation higher, or better yet, provide a base, and then make a thorough waterproofing between it and the first row of the wall. It would be advisable to complete construction before the rainy season, and even install a roof, so that dampness and moisture do not damage the material. Fortunately, speed is an advantage of building with cinder blocks.

When purchasing blocks on the market, you should be able to evaluate their quality and harmlessness. After all, any filler for cement can be used in their production, sometimes even combustion waste, for example, ash. Such blocks will not be good; it is better to focus on expanded clay, sawdust, crushed stone, and brick chips. Do not hesitate to check the strength of the purchased material. You need to drop it, without force, just lift it about a meter and a half and release it. If it breaks, this product is not suitable for you, even a crack is considered unacceptable. Only a few chips indicate the required strength.

How to lay a cinder block and calculate its quantity per house?

The amount of purchased material is calculated in several stages: first, you determine the parameters of your structure and the thickness of the walls, and then calculate the number of blocks, depending on the geometric parameters of the building elements. First of all, we decide what the thickness of the walls will be; this will determine the type of masonry. If the harshest winter is no more than 20 °C below zero, then a 45 cm wall is enough, but if the temperature drops below, then it is better to make the thickness 60 cm or more.

Now we look at the parameters of purchased blocks or homemade ones and determine how to lay the cinder block, which will help us achieve the planned width of the wall as conveniently as possible. These can be the following options: half a stone, one stone, one and a half and two stones. And then comes the most important part - the calculation of the purchased material. You need to calculate the perimeter and multiply by the expected wall thickness. This will give you the area that the masonry edge should cover.

The specialists of the site REMOSKOP.RU have prepared a special calculator for you Calculation of building blocks. You can easily calculate the required number of blocks.

For example, you lay out a wall with two stones, the dimensions of which are 200x400 mm, that is, an area of 0.08 m2. It is necessary to cover an area of 12 m (house perimeter) * 0.4 m (wall thickness) = 4.8 m2. This means that to lay out the first row of blocks along the entire perimeter of the house, you will need 4.8/0.08 = 60 blocks. Next, estimate the height of one block, the expected height of the walls and calculate the number of rows. For example, the height of the block is 20 cm, the height of the walls is expected to be 2.5 m, which means that 250/20 = 12.5 rows will be required (rounded up to 13). Therefore, in total, about 13*60=780 blocks will be needed.

This calculation was made roughly, without taking into account the openings for windows and doors, but we will keep this figure as the main one in order to have a supply of stone in case of breaks, battles and other unforeseen situations during transportation and construction, in addition, some blocks will probably have to be cut.

How to make cinder blocks with your own hands?

As we already mentioned, you can make cinder blocks with your own hands. To make it, you will need a special form for pouring, water, cement, filler (sand, crushed stone, slag, expanded clay, etc.) and some devices for creating a cavity in the stone, for example, bottles or special blanks. The molds can be made of wood or metal, and it is better if there are a lot of them, because the blocks will have to be dried directly in them. The strength of cement is at your discretion, the design of your house is closer to you and you know about further loads on the walls, be it the roof or floors.

The solution is mixed as for pouring, the proportions are approximately the following: cement-sand-filler 1:3:5. All this is poured into a mold with bottles or blanks exposed in the places where the cavities are planned. After 5 hours, when the mixture has set a little, the blanks can be taken out. Now the resulting form is left to set for 24 hours. Then the blocks are taken out of the molds, and new ones can be poured, and these are placed in stacks to dry for 28 days, until the concrete gains strength, only after which they can be used in building a house.

Building a house with your own hands from cinder blocks - stages of work

The laying of this stone is somewhat different from the brick that many are accustomed to, however, in some cases, we even win, so let’s take a closer look at the process.

Building a house with your own hands from cinder block - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Preparing the Foundation

We have already mentioned that the foundation needs to be high (up to 70 cm above the ground) and well insulated, but it is not necessary to make it super strong, of course, unless you have several floors or reinforced concrete floors. The first stage of your construction should look something like this: formwork is installed on a high cushion of sand and crushed stone (about 50 cm), in which the reinforcement is placed, and the whole thing is filled with medium or high strength concrete. In a week, the foundation will set, and if you have a base planned, you can already make it, and the walls themselves can be started only after the concrete has completely cured, i.e. in 28 days. There must be high-quality waterproofing under and above the plinth.

Step 2: Building walls

First we set the corners, this guarantees us smooth walls in the future. To do this, we place one cinder block from each wall in the corners, level the corner with a building level, and stretch a rope around the perimeter, along which we will lay out future walls. All that remains is to take the solution and start laying. The first 3 rows will be the most important, they set the percentage of quality for the entire wall, so use a level more often, both in the horizontal and vertical planes. Some craftsmen add a plasticizer to the masonry mortar, thereby increasing the strength of the future structure and extending the life of the mortar until it hardens, in order to reduce the need to mix new portions.

We do not recommend applying a thick layer of cement between cinder blocks, as this will create additional channels for cold, because the working solution does not have the same insulating qualities as a cinder block, so a layer of up to 1.5 cm is enough. Do not fill the cavities in the blocks with cement, this will reduce thermal insulation; they can then be filled with something warmer, for example, slag. As you lay, you'll need a rubber mallet to tap the blocks and a trowel to remove excess mortar from the joints. By the way, you will have to erect even a one-story building using scaffolding; laying blocks from a stepladder is extremely inconvenient, this can deteriorate the quality of the building.

Step 3: Completion of construction

After finishing the laying of the walls and the complete drying of the elements, it is time for the next floor or roof. Here the question arises about the weight of the ceilings or beams of the rafter system; if you use something heavier than wood, then the top row of cinder blocks must be reinforced with an iron belt. And again, we are not afraid to repeat ourselves; we should not delay the construction of the roof; we must not allow the existence of open walls during the rainy season. Also, do not hesitate with the external and internal decoration; you can even additionally insulate the building from the inside and outside with a thin layer of mineral wool, for example. The main component of success in cinder block construction is to quickly protect the building from the external environment.

The first thing that interests owners who have decided to build a house is how much it costs and who will do the work. But don’t be afraid of difficulties, since you can always order the services of builders who are ready to do the job efficiently. And if cinder blocks are chosen as the building material, then the price will not be too high, although some variations are possible. The cost can be affected by the composition of the material when various fillers are added to concrete during production: expanded clay, slag, sand, screenings and even broken brick or sawdust.

The reputation of the manufacturer will also play a role. But each of us is interested in the strength and environmental friendliness of cinder blocks, which is also a very convincing argument when purchasing.

The basic cost of laying cinder blocks is 1,600 rubles per 1 cubic meter. meter.
The cost of building a house from cinder blocks on a turnkey basis for 1 m2 is 18,000 rubles. with materials.

Foundation

And when everything has already been decided and calculated, then it’s time to get to work. And the first thing a team of masons does is build a reliable foundation. Most often, this is a strip, concrete or rubble foundation, which must be provided with waterproofing. Several layers of resin-impregnated roofing felt are quite suitable for this. And since the structure made of cinder blocks is considered relatively lightweight, it is possible to save on strengthening the foundation.

Types of blocks

To build a reliable house, cinder blocks of standard sizes are used (390*190*188 mm), although there are larger parameters (400*200*200 mm). But the construction of partitions requires semi-blocks (390*120*180 mm). But since the Moscow region is subject to noticeable seasonal temperature changes, a plasticizer can be added to it to increase frost resistance and save the solution. And if everything is done according to the rules, and professional masons guarantee this, then despite all the affordable prices, the building will delight you with its unshakable strength for many years.

Construction of walls from cinder blocks

But since building a house requires its durability, masons must try their best and do everything strictly according to the rules. Here the construction technology is selected in accordance with individual circumstances, depending on the purpose of the building, the area where it is based and the wishes of the customer. Typically, walls are laid in several ways: half a stone, 1 stone (bonded), one and a half or even 2 blocks. Most often, the construction of the walls of a house is carried out in a bandaging manner, when each subsequent row is laid with offset seams in relation to the previous one.

And the most important thing is that the construction of walls begins with perfectly even corners. And the first 2-3 rows will play a decisive role in the quality of the entire structure.

Prices and benefits

And although each team has its own prices, in the Moscow region, as well as throughout the country, the speed of construction, ensured by the size of the cinder blocks, will reduce the cost of construction. Moreover, there is no need to worry about sound insulation, and thanks to the hollowness of the blocks (from 28 to 60%), heat conservation is also ensured. The filler is used for insulation. And in order not to risk the thermal insulation properties, the solution should not be applied in a layer thicker than 1-1.5 cm, nor should it be poured inside.

Cinder blocks were invented almost a hundred years ago. Due to their versatility of use and affordable cost, they have firmly entered the market. They are used everywhere for the construction of residential buildings and objects for various purposes.

During production, various fillers are added to the concrete solution: blast furnace or volcanic slag, gravel screenings, expanded clay, shell rock, ash, sawdust. After pouring, the molds are pressed in a vibrating machine and dried for a long time.

Finished blocks are lightweight and have a low heat transfer coefficient. Large dimensions make it possible to create lightweight structures and speed up the pace of construction. Slag concrete is actively used in the design of low-rise buildings, garages, arrangement of basements, cellars, installation of attics, laying columnar and strip foundations.

Advantages:

1. Cost-effectiveness - cheap fillers and low-cost technology require minimal consumption of the binder component (cement) without loss of product quality. Cinder block walls of a house do not require heavy, expensive foundations.

2. Fire safety - withstand prolonged exposure to open fire and are not destroyed by high temperatures.

3. Resistance to natural disasters - houses can withstand hurricanes and earthquakes, especially if the walls are reinforced with steel reinforcement.

4. Durability - the main material does not shrink and gains strength over time. For a slag concrete house, builders set a service life of up to 100 years.

5. Simple installation - it is not necessary to involve expensive specialists for masonry; you can handle the work on your own.

6. Unpretentiousness - storage and transportation of blocks do not require special conditions.

7. Affordable design - many online resources offer free detailed plans and ready-made schemes for the construction of turnkey houses.

The porous structure facilitates masonry work, increases noise absorption and improves the thermal insulation of the house.

Review of popular projects

1. House with an attic 10x15.

The total area of the cinder block building is 220 m2. Approximately a third of the first floor is occupied by a garage and technical rooms. On the opposite side of the house there is access to a wide terrace. The spacious living room and kitchen are located nearby, which is very convenient for receiving a large number of guests.

In the center of the attic there is a large hall with a floor-to-ceiling window. The project also includes a bedroom, an office, 2 children's rooms and 2 bathrooms. All rooms are separate, the doors open into the hall. The office and one nursery have balconies.

2. 10x10 house plan with garage.

The location of the attic is provided only above the residential part of the 1st floor. In addition to the garage, downstairs there is a narrow hall, a toilet, and a small kitchen. The living room has a stove, a built-in corner staircase and access to the terrace. On the top floor there are 2 bedrooms and a bathroom.

The house is designed for a small family of 2-3 people.

3. Project of a cinder block house on 2 floors 10x10.

The total area of the building is 180 sq.m. The house is divided into many living rooms. It also provides the necessary technical and auxiliary premises: boiler room, kitchen, wardrobe, 3 bathrooms (one downstairs and 2 upstairs). This is a spacious, ergonomic home for a large family.

What determines the cost of building a house?

The final price of a cinder block building is made up of many factors:

House design taking into account engineering and communication systems. Ordering a plan from an architectural studio starts from 25,000 rubles.
Excavation of soil under the foundation of a house to a depth of 0.7-1 m. A cube of earth costs 400-500 rubles.
Construction of a monolithic strip foundation (reinforcement + filling). For a wall 0.4 m thick, a base width of 0.5 m is required. Material costs are about 8,000 rubles per cubic meter. If you hire a team, then the project estimate needs to be increased by 10-15%. Laying a turnkey strip foundation costs 17,000-19,000 rubles per cubic meter of concrete work.
Filling with crushed stone and sand will cost 600-800 rubles/cube including delivery. At this stage of construction, you can include the arrangement of the basement.
Purchase of slag concrete 390×190×190 mm. To lay walls in one block per 1 m2 you need 12.5 pieces. If walls made of double cinder blocks are specified, then 25 pcs/m2 will be required. The approximate cost of a block is 30-35 rubles plus 8-10% for battle and defects.
Cement and sand. According to the laying plan, a cube of mortar is enough for 4.3 m3 of wall. To do this, you need to buy 6 bags of M400 cement and a cubic meter of sand, which will cost 1800-2000 rubles.

The estimate includes the costs of roofing, floors between floors, windows, and doors. The general list also includes materials for insulation, interior and exterior decoration. The most expensive part is the installation of heating, sewerage, gas, water and electricity.

Some nuances influence the final cost:

1. Walls made of cinder concrete cannot withstand the load of a concrete floor. Therefore, in a house project it is usually planned to install an armored belt made of longitudinal beams.

2. When constructing walls, it is necessary to reinforce every second row of blocks with steel bars. This increases the cost per cube of masonry by 300-350 rubles.

3. To make the structure lighter and cheaper, you can use hollow cinder blocks. Since they have increased fragility, they are suitable only for the construction of 1-2 storey houses, garages or installation of an attic.

Thus, the approximate price of a turnkey house is about 20,000-25,000 rubles per 1 sq. m. meter of area.