If you have started a major renovation of your bathroom, or the plumbing has broken down, then you may need to replace the toilet. This process has a number of features that must be taken into account, and the approach to choosing a new toilet must also be correct.
Of course, you can call a plumber from the housing office, or contact private craftsmen who will provide professional installation. But installing a toilet yourself will not only save you money, but will also allow you to understand the whole process, which means choosing the most suitable installation option.
In this article, we'll walk you through everything you need to renovate your toilet to help you do the job yourself.
The first thing you need to decide is which toilet to choose.
Replacing a complete toilet is part of a comprehensive package, so it includes:
- selection of a new toilet, taking into account the mounting and drainage methods;
- dismantling the old toilet;
- repair toilet room, including replacement of pipes, screeds, cladding and other things;
- installation and connection of a new toilet.
Buy new toilet should be done in advance, and at the same time you need to consider some features that will help you make the right choice.
Floor-standing toilets are divided into several types according to their design. Their differences are based on the shape of the main nodes.
- The shape of the outlet drain can be horizontal, vertical or oblique, at an angle of 45 degrees.
- The toilet bowl can be visor-shaped, plate-shaped or funnel-shaped.
- Models also differ in type cistern: it can be combined with the base of the toilet or installed on the wall, and at different heights.
- The fixings of the toilet to the floor vary. This may be an option with two or four fastening points, or a design in which the toilet is installed on special corners attached to the floor.
Tip: choose a toilet based on the type of drain. If you are not going to change the sewer pipe, then take a model with the same type of drain as the old toilet. No adapters will provide a high-quality connection to a toilet with a vertical and direct outlet.
The method of connecting the tank will determine the types of further facing works in the toilet room. For example, if you choose to mount it to a wall, you will need a prepared place and anchors for installation.
- First of all, the water supply inside the drain tank is shut off, the water is drained from it and the underwater hose is unscrewed. After this, the fastenings of the tank are unscrewed. If they are rusty or covered lime deposits, you need to hold the bolt head with a screwdriver and unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench. Use kerosene or aerosol lubricant - these products significantly soften rust and lime deposits.
- After the tank is removed, unscrew the fastenings that hold the toilet - dowels or nuts screwed onto the anchors.
- Now you need to disconnect the drain from the sewer pipe. If your home is still old building, then most likely the drain will be fixed. In this case, you will need a hammer and chisel. Position the chisel across the caulk and carefully prick the cement in two places. Rock the toilet with force so that the drain rotates and becomes loose. Tilt the toilet without disconnecting it to drain the remaining water.
- After dismantling the toilet is completed, close the hole in the sewer pipe with a wooden plug or fabric stopper.
Dismantling the toilet does not require special care, because you are unlikely to reuse the product. Therefore, if the cement coating is too strong, you can beat off part of the toilet bowl with a sledgehammer to make the work easier, and then make a transverse hole in the pipe and insert a metal rod there as a lever to make it easier to loosen the drain.
Please note: if you have installed drain pipes made of cast iron, it is better to immediately replace them with plastic ones. Operation of PVC pipes are much simpler, both for the initial wiring and when connecting all drain points.
DIY toilet installation process
After you've dismantled old toilet or have completed all the finishing work, prepare the surface, level it and begin installing the toilet installation.
- Attach a rigid pipe or corrugated pipe to the toilet flush to connect to the sewer outlet pipe. The optimal option would be one in which the toilet flush goes directly into the pipe outlet. Use a rubber seal with a border. Do not seal the transition of the drain into the sewer inlet with cement.
- Prepare water input. A flexible hose that is screwed onto the inlet of the tank and the water supply tap is well suited for this. Please pay Special attention to the diameter of the hose fasteners at both ends.
- After the connection is made, you can fix the toilet to the wall or floor. Below we will look at this process in more detail.
- Assemble the toilet. Place the tank on the pre-fixed base. If your tank is suspended, secure it to the wall and run a pipe. Now you can check whether the tank settings are correct and the toilet is operational. Turn on cold water and wait for the tank to fill. While the water is filling, you can adjust its level. You can learn more about this from the instructions for the tank.
- The last stage is attaching the toilet seat. There are holes on the top of the toilet bowl for mounting it, and the necessary parts are supplied in the kit.
Now we will look in more detail at the methods of attaching the toilet, as well as the features of each of them.
How to install a toilet correctly, taking into account every little detail
There are usually three options for attaching the toilet to the floor:
- installation using anchors embedded in the screed or dowels;
- fixing the toilet with screws to a wooden base previously mounted in the screed;
- installation on epoxy resin.
If you decide to change the toilet due to overhaul, then suitable option will anchorage or prepared wooden base. IN in this case anchors for attaching the toilet are placed on the floor when forming the screed. They should be installed so that they protrude 5-6 cm above the surface. The excess can then be cut off.
Choose taffeta ( wooden board) to the size of the toilet base. Drive nails in a checkerboard pattern over its entire surface so that they protrude from the other side. Now turn the taffeta over and install it where the toilet will be located. Fill the screed with concrete along the top edge of the board, install the toilet and secure it carefully with screws.
There are also certain rules for attaching a toilet to a tiled surface. Be sure to wear rubber gaskets under the nuts and on the dowels: they will prevent the toilet from cracking when tightened and will prevent rusty streaks on the ceramics. Use nickel-plated anchors and bolts; they can be easily unscrewed even after their service life has expired.
Advice: when installing the toilet on, to prevent damage to it appearance, use epoxy resin or dowels.
Under the dowels you will need to make holes through the screed and tile into which the screws will be screwed. The holes should not be too deep so as not to touch waterproofing layer. If the screed is too thin, pour some sealant into the hole before installing the dowel. Be sure to put a rubber gasket on the screw. It would be best to place the toilet on a sealant pad and then press it down with screws.
What other options are there for installing a toilet?
When installing a toilet, you can completely do without such parts as anchors, dowels and screws. will come to your aid epoxy resin. The main thing is to prepare the base of the toilet and the floor surface according to all the rules. This option is optimal if the tank is mounted on a wall, since it represents half the weight of the complete structure.
- First, take a walk sandpaper or an abrasive stone on the floor surface so that later the epoxy resin will set and stick well.
- Apply adhesive to the floor and base of the toilet in an even layer of a few millimeters. Install the structure, level it and wait for the resin to dry completely.
Recently, wall-hung toilets have become popular. They are installed on the wall, without any contact with the floor. For installation you will need to do metal frame and attach it to load-bearing wall, and directly fix the toilet on it if you plan to hide the pipes and tank behind a plasterboard wall.
Before installing a new toilet, it is necessary to complete all the necessary repair and finishing work in the bathroom. If the sanitary unit is divided, then, of course, the repairs need to be completed in the toilet. A new toilet in an apartment can be installed in two ways: using external fastening and using internal fastening. The type of fastening is pre-determined by the manufacturer.
There are certain features of installing a toilet in a private house with your own hands. The article will discuss in detail both types of fastening step by step, as well as a photo and video tutorial.
Video
Necessary materials for self-installation of the toilet
For correct installation You need to buy a certain amount of a new toilet Supplies, namely:
- flexible hose for supply cold water;
- a set of drills for glass and concrete; (many people have such sets at home);
- “FUM” tape (experienced plumbers always have flax in stock);
- corrugation;
- ball valve on the water supply pipe.
Necessary tools for installing the toilet yourself
Let's list the tools you need to install a toilet on a tiled floor:
- an adjustable wrench should always be available;
- or a hammer drill, whichever is more convenient to use;
- hammer;
- pencil or thin marker;
- rubber spatula.
If you have a wooden floor in wooden house, then you will need the same tools, only less labor for installation.
In this case, installation is carried out using special bolts (usually included with the toilet). If the toilet has an oblique outlet with holes for installation, then much less effort will be spent on installation.
First of all, you need to calculate where the toilet will be installed, taking into account all the supply lines. Having placed the equipment on, use a pencil to mark the holes for installation.
Jpg" alt="Method of installing a toilet with an external type of fastening" width="463" height="347" srcset="" data-srcset="https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Prikruchivaetsya-samorezami-k-polu..jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 463px) 100vw, 463px">!} 
Note: to make the marks even, the pencil must be held strictly vertically.
After the marks are made, the toilet must be moved to the side to avoid unnecessary damage. The marked areas must be drilled out for subsequent installation of dowels.
Note: It is recommended to use a glass drill first to avoid breaking fragile tiles, and then a concrete drill to avoid damaging the first drill.
The resulting holes must be thoroughly cleaned of dust, and then filled with silicone, which will serve as additional waterproofing. The last step work with the holes will be the installation of mounting dowels in them.
All that remains is to correctly install the toilet yourself exactly in the place where the holes were marked, after first applying silicone to the office for additional fastening and moisture insulation. Mounting sleeves are mounted into the mounting holes of the toilet, then the mounting bolts are screwed in and the plugs are installed.
If excess silicone “peeks out” from under the toilet, then it must be removed with a rubber spatula.
Just as in the first case, it is necessary to prepare in advance for the supply of communications by calculating the distances for pipes and hoses.
The mount must be connected to the toilet in advance. Next, the toilet is installed at the site of future use and carefully traced along the contour with a pencil or marker. It is also necessary to note the locations of the fasteners.
We take the toilet out of the room, mark the inside of the resulting drawn silhouette, and then drill out four holes for fastening.
Jpg" alt="Method of installing a toilet with internal type fastenings" width="349" height="265" srcset="" data-srcset="https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/ustanovka..jpg 300w" sizes="(max -width: 349px) 100vw, 349px"> 
Dowels are placed inside the holes, to which the internal fastening is screwed with special bolts. It is important to do everything carefully and slowly, so as not to have to worry about adjustments later.
Installing the corrugation is quite easy. Thanks to its structure, it can change the bending angle and length.
The connection of all pipes must be airtight; for this it is necessary to use FUM tape, wrapping the threads at the joints.
After everything is prepared, the installation itself begins. The corrugation is secured to the side of the sewer hole using silicone sealant, and all the necessary adapters are installed on the pipes. The external bolts on the toilet are finally tightened, then the bolts on the fastenings.
Jpg" alt="Installing the toilet lid" width="285" height="166" srcset="" data-srcset="https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/mldom201306-deti-11j..jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 285px) 100vw, 285px">!} 
The lid of a new toilet cannot always be found complete with it, leaving the buyer to choose the option for themselves.
Installation of the cover is very simple and is done last. The mounting bolts, usually plastic, are tightened from the bottom of the toilet. If the fasteners are metal (for example, nuts), then you should not directly press them against ceramic surface toilet. It is best to use special gaskets to avoid damage and rust.
Are you busy renovating your bathroom or toilet? Sooner or later, you will be faced with the question of installing a toilet yourself. In this article, we will describe the entire process in detail so that you can complete all the work yourself without any problems.
Installing a toilet yourself, not like that difficult task. The entire process can be completed without the involvement of plumbers. Considering that for the work they charge from 1,500 rubles for the installation of the simple toilet In addition to saving money, you will gain invaluable experience.
Preparing the room consists of:
- Cleaning old plumbing;
- Leveling the seat;
- Determining parameters for a new toilet;
In general, installing a toilet with your own hands, although easy job, but does not tolerate “white hands”. We recommend purchasing latex gloves, and wear them when working with sewer pipes. This is the dirtiest place.
Turn off the water supply to the toilet tank and disconnect the water line.
Removal of the old toilet depends on the mounting. In some cases, they may be set on cement, in which case it must be chipped off. If the fixation was on a bolted connection, then unscrew the bolts, slightly loosen the toilet and carefully lift it tilting back. This must be done to drain the remaining water in the siphon. Now you can remove the toilet pipe from the sewer pipe.
In old houses, the connection between the toilet and the sewer was sealed cement mortar. If this is your case, then you will have to work with a hammer and break the drain pipe. Its fragments may be inside the sewer pipe. They must be removed! The hole in the sewer pipe is covered with a plastic bag.
Depending on how the old toilet was fixed, the seat is prepared.
Sometimes, toilets were coated with cement mortar and laid tiles, forming a new surface. In this case, you will have to fill the recess to level it to one level. The easiest way to do this is with a quick-setting self-leveling screed. It is found in small packaging, 2-5 kg. A two-kilogram bag will be enough for the job.
All debris is removed from the excavation, swept, then primed. Dry screed is diluted according to the instructions on the package. Ready mixture poured in such a way that its level coincides with the level of the main surface.
After a day, the screed gains the declared strength, and it must be primed.
If the toilet was installed on top of a complete covering, but in this case a dirt rim may clearly appear. No matter how well and thoroughly the cleaning is done, microscopic particles of dust are always deposited in such places. They eat into the surface of the tile and can be very difficult to remove.
A solvent with a very weak surface tension film will help cope with this task. This necessary condition, for the penetration of liquid into the smallest pores of the glaze. They will not harm the tile itself. We recommend trying:
- WD 40;
- Acetone;
- Xylene.
One of these solvents will help cope with the task.
To determine the parameters of a new toilet, you need to measure:
- the height of the inlet to the sewer pipe;
- liner length;
- dimensions of free space behind the toilet.
Write down the results obtained on a piece of paper so as not to make a mistake when choosing. TIP: Take a photo with your camera mobile phone, general form prepared toilet. This may come in handy in the store.
What parameters should you use to choose a toilet?
There are certain criteria in which we are not allowed to give you any advice. For example, the color or shape of the toilet. This area is entirely your responsibility. But there are some characteristics that should be considered first.
- Toilet type.
They come in three types:
- Hanging;
- Attached;
- Floor-standing.
Yes, there is a small gap between the floor and the wall-hung toilet. But its diminutiveness is a fiction. The fact is that the installation system hides at least 30 cm from the depth of the toilet. It will be decorated wall covering, and it won’t be visible. But the volume of the toilet room will be significantly reduced.
Attached toilets can be considered as a type of floor-standing ones. But they have a perfectly flat back surface, and often they are fixed not only to the floor, but also to the wall.
Floor standing toilets – normal look plumbing fixtures, bolted to the floor.
- The material of typical toilets is sanitary porcelain and sanitary ware. Essentially it's the same thing White clay, but quartz is added to sanitary porcelain. These toilets are more expensive. In operation, with regular cleaning, there are no differences.
- Bowl type.
For household toilets, three types of bowls are possible:
- Dish-shaped (with shelf);
- Visors (with an oblique wall);
- Funnel-shaped.
Plate-shaped bowls are considered obsolete because they require stronger water pressure. Hard water can cause rust deposits to form on the shelf. Rarely found on sale.
Visor bowls are more hygienic. Does not create splashes. The slope can be either on the front wall or on the back.
Funnel-shaped bowls require the least amount of water to flush. They have a drawback - the formation of splashes. But most models have an anti-splash system. This small protrusions at the bottom of the funnel, which are formed during the manufacture of the toilet.
- Exhaust system.
This the most important parameter, which you should pay attention to first. It happens:
- Straight (horizontal);
- Oblique;
- Vertical;
- Universal.
Straight and oblique outlets are a gradation of the angle at which the drain is located in relation to the floor. If desired, these two options can be corrected using a corrugated pipe. But the vertical outlet is located at the bottom of the toilet. Typically, such systems involve the installation of plumbing in private housing construction. This option is not acceptable for an apartment.
The universal outlet can be positioned at any angle without additional equipment. But such models are 25-30% more expensive than their analogues.
- Type of cistern.
They come in three types:
- Built-in
- Monoblock;
- Mounted;
- Ceiling.
Built-in tank is an element wall hung toilets. Quite a cumbersome design that requires camouflage behind finishing materials.
Monoblock is a single design with the toilet. It is impossible to separate them. In operation they are no different, but have a solid appearance.
A hinged cistern is convenient for customizing plumbing equipment to suit your needs. Each manufacturer has a wide range of products that can be configured at your discretion.
The ceiling tank is characterized by the highest quality flush. It is placed at a height of 1.8-2 m from the floor and is connected to the toilet with a vertical pipe. When flushing, the water flow has greater pressure, and the toilet bowl is cleaned more fully. If desired, the ceiling tank can be “covered” with wall finishing material, and it will not be noticeable.
The tanks have a volume from 4 to 8 liters. The drain type can be rod or push-button. In the first case, the lever must be raised, in the second, the button must be pressed.
Push-button systems are often equipped with a differential drain. In this case, the button is divided into two unequal parts. When you press the smaller button, half the tank is drained, and when you press the larger button, the entire volume of water is drained. Considering the prevalence of water meters, such systems allow a family of three to save 1-1.5 cubic meters of cold water per month.
- Water supply.
There are side, back and bottom. The difference between the side and rear is only in the location of the inlet. But the lower water supply ensures silent filling of the tank. Many experts consider the lower intake to be more reliable.
- Flush type
There are two most common types:
- Straight;
- Circular.
In the first case, the drain occurs in one direction from one point. This design is a relic of the past, and is gradually disappearing along with the plate bowls. Its disadvantages are noise and splashes.
A circular flush system ensures water flows from different points. Water consumption is less, bowl coverage is almost 95%. No splashes are produced.
What is the price
Incredibly, most plumbers quote the cost of installing a toilet at 1,500-2,000 rubles. In Moscow it will be even more expensive. In our opinion, this is quite a lot, because... The work is not that difficult, and takes about 30 minutes with communications carried out in advance.
Toilet installation
Now we will show in detail how to install a toilet with your own hands. To work you will need:
- Fan pipe (or corrugated toilet pipe);
- Silicone sealant;
- Drill (if the toilet is installed on a tiled floor);
- Tubular drill;
- Adjustable wrench;
- Marker.
Place the toilet in the prepared place. Check how level it is relative to the walls. Through the bolt holes, mark the drilling locations with a marker. TIP: Glue the pieces masking tape on the tile, and the markings will be visible better.
You can also drill tiles with a spear drill. But for some varieties ceramic tiles, it doesn't fit. But diamond-coated tubular drills can drill through any tile or porcelain tile. But when drilling, set the limit to 600-800 rpm.
IN drilled holes insert plastic dowels. If necessary. Cut off the protruding part with a construction knife.
The use of a fan or corrugated pipe is decided depending on the connection between the toilet outlet and the sewer pipe inlet. If they match in level, then I use fan pipe. Otherwise, use a corrugated pipe for the toilet.
In any case, first insert the adapter into the sewer. But it is pre-coated silicone sealant. This will not only improve the quality of fixation, but also prevent the appearance of unwanted odors.
The toilet outlet and the adapter cuff inlet are also treated with silicone sealant. But in this case, in addition to sealing, this procedure will provide softer penetration.
The toilet is pushed towards seat, while simultaneously inserting the release into the adapter cuff. Align the holes on the toilet base with the holes in the floor. Then I fix the plumbing with bolts. Don't tighten it too much. Usually they tighten it until the toilet stops wobbling.
Place of contact of the toilet sole to floor covering, be sure to treat with silicone sealant. This must be done to prevent water from getting under the plumbing during wet cleaning.
Tank installation
If the tank was purchased separately, then to fix it, assemble the valve system in strict accordance with the instructions. There is no single guideline, as systems vary.
The assembled water drainage group is installed in the tank and secured from below with a clamping nut. At the point of contact of the tank with the drain system, apply a little silicone sealant.
The toilet tank is installed using plastic gaskets. Fastening is carried out manually, and the last 1-2 turns are tightened with an adjustable wrench.
Close the tank lid and screw the button or rod handle on top.
Water supply is carried out through a flexible hose. It is recommended to select a hose of such length that its excess is no more than 3-7 cm. Otherwise, it will form spiral bends when collecting water.
If the tank ceiling mount, then it is fixed to the wall, at the height of the pipe included in the kit. TIP: This element can be hidden behind wall panels. The pipe from the tank is also closed plastic panel, having previously cut off its stiffening ribs.
Installation of a wall-hung toilet
This is a more complex process that will require complete renovation toilet. The fact is that fixation is carried out with anchor bolts to a depth of 25-30 cm. Only such fasteners will ensure the immobility of the system under a load of 200 kg.
The installation system will require 30 cm to be allocated behind the toilet. It is secured in the same way. After this, the installation is sewn up with finishing materials, and only the water drain button remains on the outside.
IN ordinary apartment, suspension systems are installed extremely rarely. The dimensions of the toilet room are too small for such equipment.
Quality control of installation work
Even if all work on installing the toilet was carried out with maximum control of each stage, it is necessary to monitor the proper operation of the entire system. Particular attention is paid possible appearances leak.
TIP: You can purchase a leak indicator at plumbing stores. This is a small device, about the size of a pack of cigarettes. It runs on batteries. They turn it on and place it on the floor. When water appears, the contacts close and the indicator emits loud noise. Device cost ≈ 500 rub.
The easiest way to find out if there are leaks is to flush the water 2-3 times, and then wipe everything with a dry paper napkin. threaded connections.
Special attention is paid to connecting the toilet outlet to the sewer pipe. The test is carried out according to this scenario.
Before installing a toilet with your own hands, you need to choose the right option. For standard apartments A compact model of domestic or imported production is suitable. However, it is better to purchase a product similar to the previous one or with a similar fastening system.
Installation different types different from each other. The main differences are usually the connection to the device additional functions and in the installation of special automatic equipment. Modern toilets With various functions accompanied by detailed instructions in at least ten languages, including Russian. Even regular models have detailed instructions on assembly.
Preliminarily inspect your old toilet, pay attention to several important points:
- Release angle. Available with direct release, oblique and floor release. Measure the height of the outlet from the floor surface. If the selected model does not match, you can buy a transitional drain corrugation.
- Water supply. Traditionally, a side or bottom connection is connected to the tank flexible hose. When choosing a new toilet model, it is necessary to take into account the length of the water supply. It is recommended to purchase a new liner in the form of a flexible hose in advance.
- Method of fixing to the floor. If the old toilet sits on the floor and is secured with two bolts using plastic dowels, purchase another set for fastening. Sometimes the plumbing is cemented, then you will have to break the screed until the wooden insert appears.
- Before installing the toilet yourself, check how the water supply to the tank is shut off in the apartment - locally or from a common riser. In the second case, it is necessary to negotiate with the control room and local plumbers. Also analyze the condition of the water supply and sewer pipes in an apartment, it might be worth changing them at the connection points at the same time. Then, even more so, you will need responsible plumbers to turn off the water through the riser.
Basic list of tools and materials for installing a toilet:
- Drill with drill bit diameter 10.
- Hammer.
- Adjustable wrench.
- Two keys wrench for assembling the barrel.
- Silicone sealant.
Preparatory work for dismantling the old toilet
- Water is drained from the tank.
- The water supply is disconnected. If it is flexible, it unscrews from the water supply and from the tank. If it is metal, it is necessary to cut out part of the pipe; on the water supply side, the threaded connections are disassembled so that there is access to screw on the nut of the new flexible connection.
- Preparing for dismantling. Immediately before dismantling, treat the toilet with special disinfectants. At home, bleach or “Whiteness” is suitable for this. Carry out the dismantling procedure wearing protective gloves. If you plan to split old plumbing, protect your eyes with any glasses to prevent debris from getting into them.
- We remove the fastenings to the floor. If the old toilet was fixed with bolts, they are unscrewed; if it is fixed with cement, the cement or plumbing fixtures are broken in the places where they are fixed. After removal, you need to tilt the toilet back to drain the remaining water from the cavities.
- Disconnect the bell. If it is corrugation, we simply remove it; if it is cast iron or plastic socket– we take out the plumbing fixtures, disassemble the socket to the first connection or cut it to size.
- Installation of drain corrugation in the sewer socket. On the side of the junction with the sewer, the corrugation is lubricated with sealant, the socket is cleaned from the inside and also lubricated with sealant. Insert the corrugation until it stops. After installation, it is recommended to cover the entrance of the corrugation with a plug or an old rag to prevent the spread of sewer odors.
- The floor is flat (screed or tiles), the old toilet was attached with bolts. If new model has a similar fastening to the old one - you can install it in the old place. Old plastic dowels are drilled out of the holes in the floor and replaced with new ones. If the holes are wider than the new dowels, it means that the new toilet will not be securely fastened and new holes must be prepared. It is necessary to place the assembled plumbing fixtures at the installation site and mark the location for new mounting holes, taking into account the dimensions, length of the lines and corrugations.
- The old toilet was fixed with cement. After removing the plumbing and cleaning the recess in the floor from excess cement screed, V standard houses you can find a wooden mortgage. You can level the floors with thick cement mortar, place plumbing fixtures on top of the new screed and screw them directly through the wet screed to the old wooden mortgage, and after complete drying, tighten the screws. However, the mortgage may rot over time; before carrying out this procedure, you need to check its reliability. If a wooden mortgage is not installed, we make a screed, which should dry for 2-3 days.
- The fastening dowels are carefully driven into the holes prepared in the floor. They should fit into the floor easily. From proper preparation depends on the stability of the new toilet.
Attach assembled toilet to the prepared mounting location. Alternately tighten the fastening screws, tighten one and the other evenly.
The socket must be coated with sealant and the corrugation must be put on.
Assembling the toilet involves assembling the cistern. Modern models, as a rule, have a “compact” design, when the manufacturer has already connected the elements together. There is no difficulty in installing equipment with automatic equipment for collecting and draining water; attention must be paid to careful installation and adjustment of the float valve at the reservoir.
The float valve must regulate the pressure and volume of water entering the tank. The float needs to be adjusted.
The rule here is that the lower the float, the better. This will reduce during operation total consumption water in the bathroom and save money. The purpose of the adjustment is to correctly set the filling level in the water tank so that it does not reach drain hole by 50 millimeters.
Next we screw on the new one flexible liner to the water supply. Let's open it up a little water tap and drain some water through the liner. This is done to ensure that all excess debris comes out of the water pipe. We close the water and screw the second part of the liner to the tank of the new toilet, check the presence and integrity of the structure rubber gaskets, which are located under the liner nuts.
We open the water in the system, check for leaks in all connections of the tank and liner. After the tank has been filled and filled with water, you need to wait a few minutes and check the entire system again for leaks. The water from the tank must be drained several times, and new sewer connections must be checked for leaks. After a few hours, it is recommended to carefully inspect everything again, all connections after starting the water and draining it without problems. If everything went well, the new toilet was installed correctly on its own!
Video
This video will allow you to see the toilet installation process.
