How to install laminate flooring in an apartment without thresholds. Types of connecting strips

The laminated parquet has been installed, now you need to decorate the open joint in doorways, in the area where steps and risers meet or at the junction with other floor coverings - linoleum, parquet, tiles. Most popular option finishing - thresholds for laminate.

What are thresholds for?

As you know, laminate flooring needs to be laid indoors with a gap from any enclosing structures - walls, door frames, columns, etc. This is due to the relatively large coefficient of change in the linear dimensions of the flooring material due to temperature and humidity changes. For this reason, experts recommend laminate flooring in every separate room lay separately, and form between rooms in doorway peculiar expansion joint. This will allow you to avoid swelling of the coating in the future, compromising its integrity and geometry.

There is one more important note in the instructions for laminated parquet - the area of the solid coating should not exceed 30-100 m2 (depending on the density and size of the slab). That is, every 5-10 m in the room it is recommended to make an expansion gap.

Limit laminate area and seams.

The resulting compensation gaps are decorated in several ways. The most famous of them are transition profiles or thresholds. Their purpose:

Smoothing out differences in floor level or creating a neat transition from one type of coating to another;
Protection of the ends of the laminate from dirt, chipping, burrs and other damage;
Leveling seams at joints with a decorative effect;
Creating a zoning effect.

Thus, thresholds are useful finishing profiles that can be used both for their intended purpose and for the implementation of various design ideas. Available in the following sizes:

Width from 1 to 12 cm;
Length from 0.9 to 3 m;

Threshold types

Metal

Aluminum is used, less often steel or brass. Due to its durability, strength, and frost resistance, this is the most common type of threshold for home and commercial use. The advantages of metal products also include a wide range of decors. Including:

Simple aluminum ones, to which none applies decorative technique. Inexpensive, versatile and not too difficult to install.
Anodized. The metal strip undergoes anodic oxidation, resulting in the formation of a thin metallized film on the surface various shades and textures: gold, classic and blackened silver, copper and bronze with a touch of patina, etc. The effect is really beautiful, but this is not the only advantage of this treatment. Ready-made thresholds are not afraid of scratches, corrosion processes, are durable, and fit perfectly with classic designs laminate
Painted. Special polymer-powder compositions of rich and muted shades are applied to the surface. The coating is resistant to abrasion and impact, and easily withstands frequent washing even with the use of aggressive detergents. household chemicals. Recommended for use in combination with classic wood decors, as well as marble-like laminates, ceramics, textiles, etc.
Laminated. Aluminum strips are covered with a dense and durable PVC film with a laminate texture. This is the best-selling type of product, and all thanks to the reasonable price and the widest range of decors - up to 80.

PVC

Unique in its simplicity and practicality, the flexible threshold for laminate is produced by almost all factories producing skirting boards, panels and other plastic products. It is a set of:

Mounting solid or perforated strip - attached to the base with self-tapping screws or mounting adhesive
A profiled threshold that is inserted into the groove of the strip and fixed.

The product is made from semi-rigid PVC and is characterized by water, bio- and impact resistance. The flexible threshold is designed for:

Thanks to the rich color scheme(up to 30 shades) and texturing ensure a harmonious transition between identical and different floor coverings, including multi-level ones (for example, a threshold between a 12 mm thick laminate and a 4 mm thick carpet).

Wooden

Wooden thresholds in natural, tinted and bleached shades belong to the luxury category and are most often used in combination with parquet and parquet board. They are often purchased for laminate flooring, especially in cases where it is difficult to match the decor and tone of the coating with metal and PVC accessories. Profiles from solid wood expensive, not too difficult to use, not allowed for installation in wet areas. For fixation, use super-strong mounting adhesive or a fastening strip made of metal or PVC.

LMDF

MDF thresholds laminated with PVC film deserve special mention. If only because they are universal. That is, they can be used to level significant differences, and, if necessary trimming, for simple straight seams. The assortment, as a rule, includes an average of 12-25 of the most popular shades.

MDF thresholds are used in combination with parquet, laminate, parquet or engineering board. They are convenient because they are produced for certain collections, that is, the match in tone and texture will be perfect.

Separately, it is worth mentioning cork expansion joints - strips of cork of different thicknesses and heights. This is not a threshold in the classical sense. Rather, it is a kind of “buffer” between coatings that needs protection from moisture and dirt after installation. Rarely used in combination with conventional laminate.

Types of thresholds

The largest range of joints is found in the metal series. Wooden, plastic and other types of profiles are limited by the characteristics of the material from which they are made.

Thresholds are of the following types:

Overlapping joint or straight

Designed for installation on single-level floor coverings. They are slightly concave strips with a smooth or corrugated surface. This series produces thresholds for laminate flooring hidden fastening or open fixation.

Straight thresholds of different types.

The first are a strip, on the reverse side of which there is a guide groove formed by 1-3 protruding spikes made of metal, MDF or plastic. To attach it, you need to drill a hole in the base and drive a dowel into it. The head of the hardware is inserted into the groove, then the threshold is placed against the joint so that the edge of the self-tapping screw and the dowel insert coincide. The structure is nailed to the base until it touches the finishing floor covering.

The group of hidden fixation thresholds includes products of the “swallow” or multiclip system. The fastening T- or W-shaped profile is fixed to the base. Then a plastic or steel insert is installed on it, onto which the edging itself is “put on.”

Equal and multi-level thresholds with a hidden multi-fastening system.

Thresholds with open method fixations are considered the most convenient to use for beginners. Holes for fasteners are already drilled in the strip at a certain interval (no more than 50 cm). It is enough to place the bar in place and tighten the self-tapping screw or screw. Majority Russian manufacturers hardware suitable size comes complete with piping, which is very convenient for buyers.

Interesting modifications worth noting:

Multi-level

Overlays of standard or special shape, designed to smooth out differences between floor materials of different thicknesses. The width of the products varies from 1.5 to 10 cm, and the height of the leveled difference between the coatings can reach 20 mm. The mounting methods are the same as for single-level ones: open and closed with all possible modifications. You can also include linings with a special shaped fixing edging: Z-, L-shaped and others. The packaging of each product includes a simple and clear instructions in pictures.

Corner

Since stairs are often lined with laminate, let’s consider another type of product. In essence, these are well-known corners made of metal, wood and MDF, which protect the edge of the step from abrasion, dirt, chips, and also provide protection against slipping. The fastening methods are the same - open, using hardware, and closed, using additional or integrated edges of a special shape.

You can also replace the plinth with a corner, using it as an end or edging element.

Special for laminate

This group includes metal and MDF edges of equal and different levels, having a special profile - G-, H-, Z-, F-shaped, etc. They are used to connect homogeneous materials of different or identical palettes, densities and thicknesses. Convenient for forming expansion joints. The fixation scheme is exclusively closed.

Edging

This type metal products also called edge. In fact, this is a convenient analogue of a corner for steps or a plinth. The shape may be different, but the method of fastening is the same - closed. The sizes of products vary, so it is better to select them according to the existing laminate sample, and not in words.

We have listed only the most common types of thresholds. But this is enough to understand that the choice is extensive and you can find the right type decorative overlays for any, even the most difficult conditions installation

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To install a laminated floor in a residential area, you can use class 31 laminate. It is important to pay attention to the quality of the locks, the density of the panel itself (and not just the abrasion of the surface indicated in the class) and the geometry of the panels (some manufacturers allow quite noticeable differences in size). If at least one of these elements is not taken into account, this will ultimately lead to problems. Weak locks will appear as cracks (they will appear the faster, the more uneven the base for the floor is). The density of the panel directly affects how your floor will react to changes in humidity and temperature. The harder the panel, the better for the floor, the larger the area that can be laid without gaps.

Nowadays, more and more people are choosing to install laminate flooring without thresholds. The advantage is the absence of thresholds between rooms. Perhaps this really is a plus. However, there are quite a lot of possible “minuses”. Firstly, installing laminate flooring without thresholds is much more difficult than using any other method. This requires some skill; It is better if this work is done by professionals. Secondly, to lay a floor without seams it is necessary to carefully evaluate the geometry of the entire room. Without seams, laminate flooring can be laid over an area of 45–50 m2 or in sheets no more than 8–10 meters long. Any installation instructions you find in the package will insist that there must be a gap between rooms. Why? Because there is a danger that the laminate may swell near the doorway in one of the rooms. The situation will look even more unstable if the laminate area is more than 120 m2. The need for technical clearances is also supported by the fact that it is not always possible to achieve a perfectly level base on large area, and this is a mandatory requirement for seamless installation. In addition, if during operation it becomes necessary to replace a damaged panel, you will have to disassemble almost the entire floor to get to the damage.

If you think that all these precautions are not significant in your case, then you can proceed with installation without seams, that is, assembling a single integral structure without thresholds.

The laminate installation technology itself is not complicated and does not differ much from the usual one. All steps are described in the instructions for your coating. Let's add just a few details that should not be neglected.

Be sure to consult with a professional whether it is possible to lay the floor in your apartment this way and how best to do it. We can always help you with this.

Despite the fact that there will be no thresholds, do not forget about expansion joints. The walls should be left up to 10–12 mm, every 10 m of length and width - about 8–10 mm. Without them, your floor will quickly become deformed.

The laminate sheet can change its geometry both in length and width. To ensure that the floor is ready for such surprises, some craftsmen believe that it wouldn’t hurt to groove the wall a little (just a few centimeters) along a long strip. Then the floor should not rest against the wall or rise under any physical influence.

In general, if the combination of the floor affects only two adjacent rooms, for example, a room and a corridor, then there should be no troubles when laying laminate flooring without thresholds, carried out according to all the rules.

Today laminate is the most common flooring. Ease of installation, reasonable price, aesthetics of the laminate made this look finishing material one of the most sought after. Laying laminate flooring without thresholds is another new trend in floor covering. With this method of installation, the room looks more spacious and monolithic, and the risk of tripping over the interior threshold is completely eliminated.

Disadvantages of threshold-free styling

Without thresholds, you can cover a room with an area of no more than 50 m2 and a length of 8 to 10 m with laminate boards. In a larger room, the laminate flooring may swell, especially in the areas of doorways.
The installation method without thresholds will require certain skills and abilities and will take more time.
If you need to replace just one laminate panel, you will have to disassemble the entire floor covering to get to one damaged board.

The larger the area where laminate flooring is laid seamlessly, the greater the likelihood of floor deformation and swelling.

Despite the warnings, thousands of ordinary people are willing to take the risk and install seamless laminate flooring in their apartment to achieve visual spaciousness.

Before you begin the threshold-free installation of laminate panels with your own hands, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the theoretical nuances seamless installation, and also decide on the method of fastening the panels.

Methods of fastening laminate panels

Glue mount. This type of panel connection involves gluing laminate boards together.

Advantages:

This method is ideal for heavily polluted rooms with high humidity;
The joints are reliably sealed; dirt and debris do not enter them.

Flaws:

Mistakes are not allowed, since the entire floor covering will have to be dismantled.

Locking method of fastening. Assumes the presence of panels with special latches.

Advantages:

locking fasteners allow you to more accurately adjust the boards;
it is possible to lay laminate panels in different directions, which is very convenient when installing flooring;
possibility of dismantling small area coverings, if necessary, replacing several boards;
simplicity and ease of installation;
saving time.

Flaws:

high cost of laminate panels with a locking profile.

Essential tool for seamless laminate installation

Before laying laminate panels, you need to prepare the following tools:

an electric jigsaw, if you don’t have one, you can use a hacksaw, however, high accuracy may not be achieved;
roulette;
laser level;
perforator;
pencil;
glue (if chosen glue method installation);
square;
miter box;
restrictive wedges;
rubber hammer;
tamping block.

This set of tools and accessories is quite enough to carry out threshold-free installation of laminate flooring.

The choice of laminate panels will depend on the degree of load on the floor covering. In order to figure out which class of laminate needs to be used as a floor covering, you need to familiarize yourself with the classification of the room (Table 1).

Table 1 - Selection of laminate class depending on the load on the floor covering

Type of load on floor coverings	Class of laminate panels
Living spaces:


Public areas:



Industrial premises:

As can be seen from the table, the greater the load on the floor covering, the more high class laminate must be used. The choice of class of flooring material is determined by the overall degree of load in the entire living space. When laying laminate boards without threshold experienced specialists It is recommended to choose panels of class 33 or 34. This class of panels has a high degree of wear resistance. At the right technology styling flooring material will not swell, but will last more than 20 years without the need for complete replacement.

The room in which the laminate is installed must have normal humidity. Otherwise, the laminate panels may swell and become deformed.
The base on which the laminate is laid must be perfectly flat. Differences in surface height should not exceed 3–5 mm.
If laminate panels are laid on a wooden base, then parts of the floor that are deformed or rotten areas must be replaced.
As a substrate for the laminate coating, you can use cork and polyethylene, as well as sheets of cardboard connected with tape. It is not recommended to use carpet due to its high softness.
Since laminate is a “floating” floor covering, when laying it it is necessary to leave gaps along the walls. The width of the gaps is 1 cm. For uniform laying and accurate placement of the panels, it is necessary to install special plugs between the laminate and the wall, which are removed after completion of the work.

Stages of threshold-free installation of laminate flooring

The process of laying laminate flooring is simple if you know the technology and take into account the features seamless coating. The seamless installation algorithm is presented below.

Preparatory stage

Removing the old covering and leveling the subfloor. If the surface of the base has minor differences, then it is enough to simply remove the roughness and level the floor by sanding. If the base is severely damaged, then a concrete screed will be required. Concrete screed must dry for three months. The surface of the base must be smooth, clean and dry.

Installation of the insulating layer

Insulation layer ( mineral wool) immediately laid over the entire area of the room;
The apartment uses only a backing (cardboard, polyethylene or cork), which extends the life of the laminate and serves as a shock absorber.

Laying laminate panels

Installation of the covering should begin from the window, carefully connecting the laminate boards together using locks.
When laying, it is necessary to pay attention to the first three rows, as they will be fundamental for the further installation of the panels.
Be sure to leave a gap between the wall and the panels (approximately 1 cm). Then the gaps are closed with skirting boards, which are attached to the wall.
The laminate must be laid under the door frame so that it “breathes”. For this below door frame a small cut should be made. Slats in combined rooms should be laid in one direction. It is advisable to remove interior doors during installation.

In order for the room to appear visually spacious and monolithic, laying laminate panels must be done in only one direction.

It is quite easy to make a floor beautiful, durable and reliable if you know and follow all the features and nuances of seamless installation of laminate flooring. Watching the video will help you avoid mistakes and unwanted consequences.

Video

Features of laying laminate in a doorway with non-threshold installation:

Using thresholds for laminate flooring in floor repairs is important not only for different levels floors in an apartment or house. These elements look great as a connection between dissimilar flooring and when transitioning from one room to another, and also contribute to the long-term reliability of new floors.

Threshold for laminate flooring - main types

The word “threshold” is perceived as a designation of a step down or up, as a constructive difference in level - in the case of laminate, this is only partially true. Decorative thresholds can be completely flat, but they are still called “sills”. This category includes the following varieties design design laminated floors:

Classic thresholds, designed for decorating laminate steps. Like metal corners for tiles, they are internal and external - respectively, used for external corners and finishing risers. The requirements for the mechanical resistance of thresholds for external corners are very high; they bear a large load when walking and moving loads. If a laminate threshold is used to connect different-level floor surfaces, it must be metal - the strength of plastic or wood will not be enough;
Edge thresholds - used when there is a small difference in the level of the combined surfaces (up to 1 cm). They are a metal strip with an inner layer of elastic rubber. Due to the strong deformation of the rubber layer, a small difference in height is compensated during installation, and the floor takes on the finished appearance of a solid surface;
Plane overlays - used when decorating the transition from one room to another, even if the floors in both rooms are finished with identical coating. High-quality installation It is difficult to make a laminate with a continuous laminated sheet, with a consistent “grab” different rooms. It is much easier and faster to lay laminated floors in each room separately, and decorate the threshold joints with decorative overlays;
Curved thresholds for original design heterogeneous floor coverings. It is assumed that the level of the surfaces to be finished coincides, because made of impact-resistant plastic or cork (metal is difficult to bend in any way). Installing such thresholds is the most difficult thing; we’ll talk about it separately below.

The material for thresholds, trims and edges on laminate flooring is usually aluminum. It combines true metallic strength and lightness, and is easy to mount on various surfaces. Steel and brass are used less often - steel thresholds are made straight and serve for heavy loads. Brass thresholds are advantageous due to their high resistance to reagents, but are easily scratched by shoe heels and heels.

The outer (visible) part of the metal can be covered with a special film, the color of which imitates silver, bronze, gold or chrome - when worn, the film layer is replaced, and not the threshold itself.

Wooden and plastic thresholds are less common due to rapid wear and lack of strength. Glass inserts are used only where there is a minimum load - that is, when designing a riser. In combination with the right lighting, the glass threshold becomes a noticeable contribution to unique design the whole room.

Thresholds for laminate flooring - mounting methods

Mounting fastening of thresholds is carried out in several ways:

Mechanical straight. A molding with ready-made installation holes is placed on top of the already installed floor. Cut it with a sharp hacksaw for metal “to size”, with minimal clearance between door jambs or other bounding surfaces. Fastening is carried out by drilling the floor, driving into the holes plastic stoppers and tightening self-tapping screws into them. The fastening pitch is from 30 to 50 cm. It is not advisable to hammer straight sills with nails or dowels, such installation can damage the laminated board!
Hidden installation. Thresholds for laminate flooring are fixed with strong and quick-drying glue - concentrated PVA, “liquid nails”, etc. Relevant for curved turns and joints, as well as for dissimilar surfaces - laminate and solid board, parquet and tiles, when their connection is made along a winding line. Hidden adhesive installation looks more attractive than mechanical installation (there are no fastening fittings), but it will require more time and effort. It is impossible to glue a long threshold along an arc or other bend alone; you will need an assistant;
Mixed fasteners. It is quite rare and consists of mechanical installation of straight sections and adhesive fastening along radii, performed by one molding long length. Plastic is usually used as a material; metal does not tolerate such deformation well.

Threshold between tiles and laminate - the secrets of a durable joint

Assembly combination of laminated board and tiles- a difficult and responsible task when installing a new floor. A high-quality joint between laminate and tiles is ensured not only (and even not so much) by installing thresholds, but by a pre-planned combination of these floor coverings.

First of all, it is advisable to make the self-laying threshold between the tiles and the laminate straight. In the catalogs of repair companies and on the websites of professional craftsmen, there are many examples of intricately curved transitions from tiles to laminate - but installing them yourself will be very difficult if you lack experience. In pursuit of the original geometry of the laminate-tile border, you may end up with not a beautiful joint, but a jagged, curved gap in the middle of the floor...

Next, careful adjustment of the finishing floor surface in height is necessary. The joint line must be marked on a concrete base and “approached” to it with a height variation of the laminated boards and tiles of ± 5-9 mm. The greater the difference in height, the thicker the layer of rubber (porous) backing with inside threshold. At the same time, the gap between the tile and the laminate in width can be quite variable - the dimensions of typical threshold moldings easily cover gaps several centimeters in size.

Do not underestimate other methods of joint design; it can be done using sealants or cork fillers, especially when there is a curved transition from tile to laminated board. But it is better to trim the straight lines of the “sexual boundary” with a special threshold; this method is simple, fast and reliable.

Before installing a straight threshold, both the laminate and the tiles are laid completely, up to the future border (we have it drawn on a concrete base, remember?). It makes more sense to finish the tile work first, because... cement mortar must dry completely - otherwise the installed threshold will “float” along with the tile. Then the laminate is laid, and the threshold is installed as a finishing touch.

Straight thresholds are fastened with screws, through which holes are drilled. Currently available big choice decorative thresholds with a separate upper strip. The decorative strip hides the screw heads and snaps into place without play, ensuring a smooth and aesthetically perfect transition.