How to prepare interior doors for painting without removing the old paint? Painting over old paint How to paint old furniture.

People living for a long time in one unchanging environment often feel a strong desire to update their boring interior. Then the natural question arises: how to paint furniture? After all, it is she, in an updated color, that can refresh the boring interior appearance of the house. Tables, chairs, cabinets and bedside tables - this is what the arrangement of the room is formed from, but replacing them with new models every time you want to change is an extremely unprofitable idea. Thus, painting your furniture yourself becomes the best option. The following are painting tips.

Painting wooden furniture is an easy, quick way to update and refresh the look of a room.

Let's consider the attractive aspect of the question of how to refresh furniture with your own hands. First of all, this is a material benefit: you don’t have to spend a fortune on buying new fittings or the services of a professional painting craftsman. In addition, when painting yourself, you are free to show special ingenuity and creativity, giving the product the look you want.

Many families to this day keep cabinets with chairs passed down from the older generation, dating back to Soviet times, made so conscientiously that they are still able to perform their task normally. But they have one significant drawback - external “shabbyness”. In order to correct this annoying misunderstanding and finally update the appearance of the furniture, we suggest painting it yourself.

Tools and materials needed for painting furniture

In order for painting furniture with your own hands to be successful, you will first need:

• a product in need of updating;
• sufficient amount of paint;
• tape for painting;
• brushes;
• shallow container.

This is by no means a complete list. Before you start working directly, you need to treat the surface on which the paint layer will be applied.

Materials that will be useful in the process:

• putty;
• face protection (mask or goggles);
• a sufficient amount of sandpaper;
• wooden beam.

Paint selection

Before you paint your furniture, you need to decide what paint to paint your furniture with. Here you will see a wide range of paints in all their color diversity. Don’t rush to buy the first jar you come across: the choice should be made based on knowledge of the properties of the material from which your product is made. This way the paint will last longer, maintaining its original freshness.

Acrylic varnish has no pungent odor, suitable for exterior and interior use

Alcohol varnish is used for restoration of antique interior items

If you haven’t had to deal with choosing paint before, here is a list of common manufacturers on the market.

Painting process: step-by-step instructions

Important! – The key to quality painting lies in careful surface preparation.

Where to begin?

• Inspection

Check the product for any malfunctions, breakdowns, or defects. If there are any, eliminate them, then proceed to remove the old layer of varnish or paint.

Before painting, we disassemble the furniture and clean it from dirt.

Remove old paint using heat or mechanically

You can also remove paint from furniture using a special remover.

• “Skin”

Go over the surface with a piece of sandpaper. Use a fine-grained one: it will not cause deep damage. It is more effective to sand in the direction of the wood grain - this way you will achieve a flat and smooth surface without scratches.

We sand the furniture first with hard and then soft sandpaper.

• Primer coating

Distribute a layer of primer around the perimeter of the product, then cover the flaws (potholes, cracks) with putty - this will ensure that the adhesion of the materials is as strong as possible. Next, degrease the surface.

We prime wooden furniture

We putty large chips and cracks

• Application of acrylic primer

Spread the impregnating material evenly over the surface using a brush, then leave everything to dry.

• Puttying defective areas, grinding

Sand the areas where the putty was applied using a sander or sandpaper.

We fill small cracks and dents with wood putty of a matching color.

At the end of the complex procedures, remove the debris, and then re-coat everything with primer.

• Applying paint

Painting with acrylic paint with a brush

Painting in cans

Important to consider

You can paint furniture with a brush or spray

To carry out all painting work correctly, you need to adhere to a number of subtleties. Knowing them, you can not only effectively cope with the task in the shortest possible time, but also rationally save your budget.

Some useful tips that will help you paint your furniture efficiently:

How to paint antique furniture?

The effect of artificial aging depending on the method of painting wood

Stylizing your furniture and giving it a touch of antiquity is achievable. It is not necessary to go to workshops and spend a lot of money on it. To decorate the fittings in a certain style (country or French Provence - at your discretion), you can paint using the artificial aging method: with it, the appearance of the furniture will become more refined and give the room chic.

Some painting tips:

• Correct color selection;

To make the painted look more attractive and the antique effect to be natural, use light pastel colors: white, peach, beige, lemon, etc.

• Paint application;

To achieve the desired effect, it is not necessary to apply layers one after another to add saturation. It is enough to apply just one - the main color will slightly appear through it, adding more holistic naturalness to the picture.

• Grinding;

After applying a layer of paint, wait for it to dry completely, then treat the corners and those places of the furniture that are most often exposed to mechanical stress (handles, corners, etc.) - this way the final result looks neater, and the “antique effect” will become slightly natural. No one will think that the product has been aged artificially.

A well-known technique for “aging” furniture is to give the effect of old paint shining through. To do this, you will need to use a new brush, with which you will evenly distribute the paint of the new color. After drying, this layer is rubbed over. To express abrasions more clearly, we recommend using wax: rub it over the surface and get an ancient white color.

The “Loft” dry brush aging method is suitable for creating an old and scratched look for furniture

The use of wax is appropriate when the product has been painted recently. It is advisable to match furniture wax to the color of the countertop on which it is intended to be applied. It is easier to rub the wax in with a porous sponge - the product will be distributed more evenly over the entire area.

How to paint furniture white

Furniture painted white before and after DIY remodel

A solution that could come to mind for people who are not afraid of difficulties. It is known that white is a problematic color. Its original appearance is difficult to maintain.

Video: Painting furniture with acrylic paints.

I continue to decorate my room and in this post I wanted to talk about how I repainted the furniture. If you remember, I started by deciding on the general mood of the room, color palette and creating a moodboard. I wrote in detail about this stage.

The second stage was painting the furniture. The furniture in my room is very old. She's probably the same age as me (yes, she's also thirty-flirty-and-fabulous). Of course, there was an option to sell it for pennies on Avito or even just take it to the trash. But I thought this was a great chance to experiment with painting furniture. In the end, if nothing works out at all, then I will always have time to throw it away.

To paint lacquered furniture I used:

• the cheapest brushes (set of three);
• two liter cans of Dulux Aqua paint (white and coral, I chose the color in the store based on palettes - about 1000 rubles per can);
• white spirit and countless newspapers.

I had a bedside table, a wardrobe and a cabinet with a trellis. I chose a rather complicated painting method (to begin with, of course, it would be better to choose something simpler - paint everything one color). In my case, the main color was white, coral inserts on the fronts and gold accents. So here's my step-by-step guide to repainting old laminated furniture.

As a rule, old doors have a high-strength panel and a high-quality frame, but the appearance deteriorates over time due to the thick coating. One of the low-cost renovation methods is using regular paint for wooden doors. In this material you will learn how to paint wooden doors and get acquainted with other modern methods of renovating the coating at home.

Rice. 1. Door before and after painting

Selection of paints and varnishes

Paintwork materials are classified according to the following criteria:

• By composition (water and organic based);
• By protective effect (against organic and chemical substances, mechanical influences, changes in humidity and temperature);
• By method of use (internal, external, combined);
• By type (impregnations, paints, stains, varnishes).

1. Paints. Can be used to process new and old doors. There is no difficulty in choosing, but due to incompetence people choose the wrong material. Paint and varnish compositions can be transparent or opaque. The first compositions include certain pigments that exhibit a woody structure. But opaque coatings consisting of organic solvents (oil, alkyd and other types) are often used.

The most popular is alkyd enamel, the cost of which is affordable. This coating is highly durable and has a wide range of shades.. But the enamel smells bad, its unpleasant odor remains for 2 days, so they work with it outside, first removing the canvas from the hinges or vacating the room. An alternative solution is acrylic enamel, which also has many colors but does not have a toxic odor. Dried paint does not have much strength, so it is additionally treated with acrylic varnish to protect it from mechanical stress.

A more durable coating for wood doors is nitro paint, which has optimal strength. The composition is toxic and sometimes leads to allergic reactions, so you need to wear protective equipment when working with it. If an old surface is treated with nitro paint, the panel is prepared and sanded in advance to a light shade.

2. Varnishes. They are traditional coatings that add shine to wood and protect its surface. Typically, varnish is used to coat doors in rooms with high humidity (baths and saunas).

There are many different varnishes:

• Acrylic. The material is resistant to negative influences, humidity and ultraviolet radiation. There are matte and glossy finishes without a toxic odor.
• Nitrocellulose. Wooden doors can be treated with varnish. The coating is not suitable for treating bathrooms and baths, as it has insufficient strength and cracks quickly.
• Water based varnish. It has no unpleasant odor. Due to different additives, the properties of the material may differ.
• Polyurethane. The varnish has high strength and adhesion to wood, and comes in matte, semi-gloss and glossy. In addition to wood, polyurethane varnishes can be applied to parquet, veneer, and countertops.
• Oil varnish. There is no pungent odor. The composition contains a lot of fatty resins, so the old coating is removed from the door in advance. It is better to apply with a brush due to the thick consistency.
• Polyester. The composition has a pungent odor, is highly durable, but is toxic, so it is suitable for treating street doors.

It is better to paint interior doors with acrylic or polyurethane coating, and resistant materials are suitable for external work or rooms with high humidity.

3. Stains. The purpose of such compositions is to tint the wood and provide temporary protection from negative influences.

But it requires constant updating of the layer that emphasizes the wood structure.

• There are several options:
• With a varnish base (azure). The composition reduces the duration of work, but aesthetics are difficult to achieve, so a single-color surface can be obtained by spraying with a spray gun;
• With oils. Before use, it must be diluted with a solvent;
• With water. It takes longer to dry, but there is no toxic odor. The composition penetrates deeply, giving a more saturated shade and a clear pattern that looks beautiful;

Fig.4. Wood stain for a wooden door.

To protect wood from fungus, moisture and dirt, oil wax is used, which penetrates deeply into the surface. The coating adds strength and shine

If you are choosing what to stain the surface of the door with, then you need to take into account the drying time and the resulting effect.

Preparing the canvas for painting

First, the door is removed from its hinges and placed on a flat surface. Before using alkyd paint, it is better to place the canvas outside or in a well-ventilated area. The door is then locked so that all elements are accessible. The fittings are also removed or wrapped in foil, and the locks are sealed with tape.

Cleaning the door Preliminary cleaning and removal of old enamel or paint are carried out

Rice. 5. Cleaning and grinding the surface

Layers of old paint can be removed with an abrasive attachment on a drill. Pieces of dust and paint are swept away from the panel, the surface is sanded so that there are no scratches, unevenness or roughness. The surface is inspected from both sides, the density of the joints is analyzed, and the frame can be strengthened with fasteners and metal corners.

Puttying and sanding. For alkyd paint, a composition of any color is suitable, and before applying oil impregnation, varnish or wax, the tone of the putty must match the panel. The dried areas of the door are sanded with fine-grained sandpaper. At this stage, any defects are eliminated.

Antiseptic coating

When applying paint, the surface is pre-treated with a fire retardant and antiseptic impregnation (for example, biotex) when the door is installed in a steam room. It is advisable to choose products from the same company, which will improve interaction and quality of coverage.

After this, the door needs to be primed, and then a layer of putty must be applied. All areas of the door need to be treated, as well as cracks in decorative parts, between the jamb and the lintel. After the putty has dried, the surface is puttied again.

Dyeing technology

If you are painting a new canvas, you should protect it from swelling. First lay it on a flat surface and sand it with sandpaper or a sander. Then the panel is primed, the recesses and smooth areas are processed. After the surface has dried, secondary treatment is carried out.

An old house door needs to be painted with high quality so that there are no stains or smudges on its surface. It is unlikely that you need to buy a spray bottle to paint one or two canvases, so you can use a paneled brush or roller.

After you have chosen what you can use to paint a wooden door, you should familiarize yourself with some of the nuances of the work:

• fluff the brush, removing poorly fixed hairs;
• You need to paint a panel door correctly in 3 stages, using a roller, from the upper left corner you need to move to the right, covering the entire canvas. After drying, the door must be processed in the longitudinal direction. Then you need to paint the canvas from the upper right corner;
• When processing paneled fabric, you need to use a brush and treat the surface carefully, avoiding excess coating.

Painting with alkyd enamel

To coat doors with alkyd enamel, the following steps should be followed:

• remove the panel from the hinges so that paint drips do not appear on the surface. Then use a spatula and sandpaper to remove abrasions and the old layer, thoroughly rinse the surface and inspect for defects. Chips and cracks are puttied, the surface is dried and sanded. At the last stage, priming is carried out;
• the finished canvas lies on a horizontal surface of the floor, table or workbench, covered with polyethylene. The existing glass is sealed with tape. For a paneled door, first paint the panels with a brush, and then the protrusions. Subsequently, the entire panel is painted with a roller. With a two-layer application of alkyd enamel, the result will be a consumption of 40-80 g/m2;
• Additionally, you can tint the wenge fabric by impregnating it with a special compound. This paint is based on natural oils. After a layer of paint has been applied, you need to run it over it with a rubber spatula or sponge about 10 times;
• you can take liquid soap with paint. First, the panel is covered with paint and liquid soap. You need to apply another layer of coating to the soap.

Stain treatment

When choosing a stain, no primer is used. The product penetrates into the deep layers of pine or oak wood, coloring its fibers and increasing its protective properties. There are several ways to apply the composition: rubbing, spraying, simple application and staining with a brush. Usually simple application is used.

Since the stain will adhere better to a damp canvas, it needs to be slightly moistened. First, coloring is carried out along the fibers, and then across them. We perform the next layer in the direction of the fibers. We process the panel with jambs from below so as not to disturb the design of the structure.

After the water-based stain has been applied, the surface should be sanded using sandpaper (due to raised fibers), remove dust and apply the next layer of coating. If an alcohol stain is used, the fibers will not lift and no sanding is required. But aqueous formulations do not have an unpleasant odor or toxicity.

Oil or wax impregnations

There are nuances to processing canvas with oil impregnation. First, the Pinotex composition is mixed well. If applied incorrectly, darkened areas and streaks may appear. For work, use a brush, sprayer, roller or foam sponge. Depending on the porosity of the material, the number of layers will be calculated.

First, take a little composition, distributing it evenly across the width of the panel. Then the impregnation is rolled out with a roller or rubbed with a brush without sagging. Drying time is 8-12 hours. No later than a day later, another layer is applied.

Wood imitation

To ensure that you paint interior wood doors with your own hands correctly, follow the instructions:

• apply light paint (beige, white, gray or yellow) to the building material;
• treat the dried surface with liquid soap;
• cover with dark paint, remove liquid soap.

The wood structure can be created on veneered material by treating the fibers with a special brush (an antique effect is obtained). Then you need to apply one or more paint coatings to the surface and sand it.

How to paint laminated doors

Compared to doors made of natural wood, laminated products look aesthetically pleasing, are easy to use and are affordable. To process laminated doors you will need a roller or brush, wood putty with a spatula, sandpaper, rags, solvent and special enamel.

The surface is completely sanded, cleaned of dust with a rag and puttyed with a thin layer. After the putty has dried, it is treated with sandpaper, applied a second time and sanded again after drying. Before painting, the composition is diluted with a solvent. The paint is applied carefully, paying attention to hard-to-reach areas. After 3 layers, the result is secured with varnish.

If there are no defects, the laminated coating can be renewed. A tinted varnish or stain, which is applied after sanding and tinting, is suitable.

The color of the panel is selected based on your wishes. The main recommendations include:

• drying the surface before applying alkyd enamel;
• combination of shade of canvas with furniture;
• choosing a solid wood door coated with oil impregnation for a wooden home;
• combination of an aged door with antique items;
• choosing a dark-tinted door for lacquered furniture;
• use of water-based paints.

During the process of painting a door, you need to follow proper techniques and safety measures.

Can you paint over old paint? Is it necessary to remove wallpaper before painting walls? How can you cover rusty pipes, tiles or wood that has darkened over time? Let's figure it out.

Young fighter course

We're going to focus on unconventional painting methods. However, it's worth starting with the basics.

How to paint various surfaces correctly?

Without a clear understanding of this, it is difficult to know which deviations from standard procedure are acceptable and which should be avoided.

1. All old paint and varnish coatings are stripped down to a solid base.

Please note: the base must be stronger than the coating. Violation of this simple rule most often leads to paint peeling.

1. The surface is cleaned of all kinds of contaminants, dust, rust and degreased..
2. Then the surface to be painted is primed. Primers have greater adhesion to substrates and provide more reliable adhesion between them and paint.
3. Finally, the dye itself is applied - usually in several thin layers. If necessary, thickened paint is diluted with an appropriate solvent: two or three thin layers dry faster and are more durable than one thick one.

In addition, it is worth paying attention to several nuances.

• Coatings adhere better to rough substrates. If the surface is glossy, it is first subjected to rough grinding. Smooth metals are often etched before painting.

• Excessive absorbency of the surface to be painted leads to unnecessary waste of dye. Before painting in such cases, the use of penetrating primers is justified. They fill the largest pores, at the same time binding the top layer of the base and increasing its strength.

Now let's move on to difficult situations and exceptions to the rules.

Painted surfaces

As mentioned, usually the old paint is removed before the new coating is applied. For this operation, mechanical treatment is used (sandblasting, brushes, grinding) or chemical removal using universal removers.

Useful: old enamels of types MA, PF and NC can be pre-heated with a hair dryer.

However, in some cases, stripping the old coating is problematic or undesirable.

Here are some typical examples:

• Latex and silicone water-based gypsum emulsions can only be cleaned mechanically, which is likely to lead to damage to the base and the need for repeated puttying.
• Loose plaster painted with oil paint, after its removal, will also be decorated with deep scratches and gouges.
• Finally, with a large amount of painting done at home, removing the old coating will simply take an prohibitively long time. Imagine one person using a hair dryer to remove paint from a wooden floor covering an area of ​​a couple of hundred square meters: we are clearly talking about more than one week of work...

Solutions

There are two of them.

1. The same type of paint as the old one can be applied without prior stripping. PF enamel will fit perfectly on old alkyd enamel, NC is possible, and so on.

A caveat: the old coating must be durable and not show signs of destruction or peeling.

1. For other cases, there are universal primers that have equally high adhesion to different types of paints and varnishes. Mostly they are aqueous dispersions of acrylic resins. After priming, the surface can be repainted.

Technology

Let's look at a more complicated case - applying a new coating over a universal primer.

1. All peeling areas of the old one - with a spatula, sander or wire brush. Irregularities are carefully sanded. In the case of a glossy surface, it is better, as already mentioned, to sand it completely.

1. Visible depressions and irregularities are puttied - again, followed by sanding.
2. The primer is applied in one or two layers with intermediate drying.

Attention: primers for old paint should not be diluted before use. The instructions are due to the fact that excess liquid primer will collect drops on the painted surface or drain from it.

1. After the primer has dried, it’s time to paint. The procedure is standard: a brush, roller or spray is used; in each subsequent layer the direction of tool movement changes to perpendicular.

Wallpaper

Regular painting of old wallpaper is considered acceptable only if we are talking about non-woven or fiberglass wallpaper. The same type of paint can be applied in several layers; non-woven fabric allows up to 5-6 paintings, fiberglass - up to 10.

With paper wallpaper the situation is somewhat more complicated. The main problem with them is that when painting, the paper gets wet and moves away from the base. A strip of wallpaper either peels off completely or swells with untidy bubbles.

Solution

It can be a primer - a penetrating primer based on acrylic resins. Penetrating into the structure of the paper and the base, acrylic resin reliably binds them. Further painting is no different from putty work.

Technology

1. Try applying the primer to a small area of ​​the wallpapered wall and wait until it dries completely. If the wallpaper has not peeled off or swelled, it makes sense to continue the work. If this happens, the paper will have to be completely removed from the walls.

Tip: before removing, it is better to soak paper wallpaper with water using a sponge or sprayer. Some of the strips, once wet, will be removed entirely; the remaining areas can be easily cleaned with a steel spatula.

1. Prime the entire surface of the walls and wait until they dry.
2. Sand down any unevenness or wrinkles that appear. It is better to use medium-grain sandpaper on a hand grater or block: it is easy to remove excess with a sander.
3. Paint it.

Rust

Is there any way to avoid completely removing the rust? Cleaning curved surfaces with your own hands, given their large area, is extremely tedious.

Solution

A rust converter will come to the rescue - a composition that chemically converts iron oxides into a durable insoluble coating. The price of a liter package is approximately 200 rubles.

Technology

1. Plate rust is removed with a spatula. The converter can change its chemical composition, but will not do anything with its spatial structure; the base for painting, as we remember, must be durable.
2. Areas stained with lubricating oils or solarium are degreased with a solvent.
3. The rust converter is applied with a sponge or brush. Painting is possible immediately after it has dried.

Tile

Is it possible to paint old tiles?

Yes - provided that it is not glazed. No paint will adhere strongly enough to glass-like glaze.

Solutions

After cleaning from lime and other deposits, the tiles can be painted without prior priming. In this case, you will have to use wear-resistant, highly adhesive paints based on urethane or epoxy. It is acceptable to use acrylic-latex rubber paints: at a moderate cost, they, like the two types of dyes mentioned above, will provide complete waterproofing of the surface.

Technology

How to do the work of preparing and painting tiles yourself?

1. To remove deposits, it is better to use acidic agents - Sillit, solutions of hydrochloric or oxalic acids. The product is applied to the surface and washed off after 10-20 minutes. If necessary, processing is repeated several times.

Oxalic acid is an effective means for removing lime deposits.

Interestingly, acid solutions, among other things, break down fats. No degreasing is required.

1. Two-component dyes are mixed with a hardener immediately before use.
2. The wall and plumbing adjacent to the tile are protected with masking tape.
3. The paint is applied with a brush or roller in one or two layers.

Note: it is better to remove the masking tape after the paint has lost its fluidity, but before it sets. When painting in several layers, the tape is glued again.

Tree

How and with what to paint an old tree?

Solutions

You can use absolutely any dyes and varnishes on wood. The quality of the coating is determined only by the painting technology.

Technology

1. If you plan to apply transparent or translucent varnish, the wood is pre-lightened with any oxygen or chlorine-containing bleach. Even ordinary whiteness is suitable for washing plumbing fixtures.

The photo shows the result of bleaching old wood.

1. The next stage is treatment with antiseptic primer. It will prevent the appearance of rot and woodworm attacks.
2. After drying, the wood is sanded until the surface is smooth to the touch. Sanding - strictly along the grain.
3. Then - regular painting or varnishing in several layers.

An important point: after applying the first layer, the surface of the wood is sanded again with fine-grained paper. The operation is necessary to remove the lint that has risen when moistened.

To update the interior and carry out cosmetic repairs, it is not necessary to buy new expensive furniture - just repaint the old one. You can keep the usual design, just by refreshing the colors and masking defects and abrasions, or you can completely change the design style, giving familiar pieces of furniture a completely new look using tinting and finishing materials.

Preliminary preparation

Before you start painting, the surface of old cabinets, chairs and tables must be thoroughly sanded and cleaned. The new coating will not adhere to old layers of paint, and very soon the restored furniture will look even worse than before treatment.

The next step is eliminating defects. Deep cracks and scratches should be filled with putty, wait for the coating to dry, and go over with sandpaper again to remove all irregularities. The third stage of preparation is priming. It is necessary for two reasons: to ensure good adhesion (adhesion of paint to the surface) and to reduce paint consumption (which, without priming, is more absorbed into the substrate).

Even if there is no old paint or varnish on the furniture, it must be cleaned of dirt and dust before starting work. Careless preparation will nullify all your efforts, forcing you to repeat the repair procedure in the very near future.

Materials and tools

Enamels will cope best with the task. They form a durable coating that is resistant to external influences. Depending on the selected gloss level, the painted surface can be either matte or glossy.

You can use a traditional roller as a tool, but it works well for large, flat surfaces - for example, if you need to paint a cabinet, countertop or door. It is very difficult to paint small parts, joints or corners in this way; for such painstaking work it is better to arm yourself with a set of different-sized paint brushes.

Secret 1: Furniture that is being renewed can be painted much better if it is dismantled in advance, disassembling and unscrewing all the elements as much as possible.

Secret 2: To paint furniture in two colors and maintain a clear boundary between them, use masking paper tape. Make sure that there is not the slightest gap between the paper and the surface, otherwise the drawing will turn out blurry, and paint drips and stains are also possible.

Interior design ideas

We bring to your attention several specific ideas on how you can refresh furniture that has lost its former luster. With the help of TEX products, a small set of tools and a drop of inspiration, you can create an exquisite shabby chic environment from seemingly useless furniture elements or simply breathe a second life into your favorite items.

1. Gilded hangers. Clothes hangers are most often hidden from prying eyes: they are located in the depths of the wardrobe under layers of clothing, but every little detail is important in creating a harmonious interior. So, old wooden hangers look completely unpresentable, but they cope with their function without any complaints, what to do?

Will need: old coat hangers, sandpaper, medium-width brush, TEX Ruststop enamel in golden color or TEX Enamel for wood and metal, tinted in any bright color.

Step 1: Cleaning. Remove the old coating using sandpaper.

Step 2: painting. Apply Rust Stop enamel or Wood and Metal Enamel with a brush. Let dry for 5-7 hours.

2. Lace wardrobe. It would seem that nothing could be more banal and ordinary than a simple chest of drawers, but a creative approach can create a real work of art even from the most trivial object. The combination of wood and lace gives the interior airiness and lightness; such a wardrobe would look especially appropriate in the bedroom of a little girl or an adult fashionista.

Will need: an old wardrobe or chest of drawers, a means for cleaning the old coating (scraper, sandpaper or a special solvent), lace fabric or trimmings, a roller and a brush, golden TEX Rzhavostop enamel, .

Step 1: Cleaning. Remove old coating using a scraper, sandpaper or solvent.

Step 3: Painting the backing and gluing the lace. Using a roller and brush, apply to the cabinet surface.

golden enamel “Rzhavostop” and, without waiting for complete drying, apply scraps of old lace to the painted surface. After this, let it dry for 5 hours.

Step 4: final painting. Apply a second layer of golden Rust Stop enamel directly on top of the lace and let it dry overnight.

3. . A bright and unusual table will enliven the interior of a children's room and will appeal to inquisitive kids who like everything that is not done according to the rules.

Will need: wooden table, sandpaper, brush, Biotex Eco primer, two colors (we recommend white + any bright color).

Step 1: Cleaning. Carefully remove old coating and dirt from surfaces.

Step 2: Primer. Apply Biotex ECO primer to the surface and let it dry for several hours.

Step 3: painting - the first stage. Paint the table with two layers of white “Profi” Enamel for wood and metal and let dry for 6-8 hours.

Step 4: painting - the second stage. Once the white finish is completely dry, pour a can of any bright paint onto the countertop so that it can drip freely from the edges. Of course, you must first take care not to stain the floor and surrounding objects. The drips will harden into a beautiful and neat pattern, and the table will take on a slightly hooligan look.