What is the long type of fire called? "types of fires and their purpose"

I remember that in the bearded Soviet years, when I was still a teenager, I came across a book about tourism, in which there was a chapter devoted to setting up a bivouac. It listed all conceivable and inconceivable types of fires, ranging from the banal “hut” to exotic ones like “Polynesian”. Even then, their diversity caused me slight bewilderment: why bother with this whole vegetable garden, when it’s already burning quite well, just in a bunch?

Subsequently, having started to “pump up” my fishing and tourism experience, I became convinced in practice that only three types of fires are really in demand for our brother, while the rest are either listed in reference books for the sake of words, or are suitable for specific situations.

Which of them turned out to be useful and which were useless will be discussed in this article.

Classification of fires

But before we move on to the actual listing and description different types bonfires, it would be useful to mention where so many of them came from. As it turned out, this diversity is not without reason, and is explained by the fact that a person specifically wants to get from fire in specific conditions. If we simplify everything, it turns out that there are only three types of fires:

Fiery bonfires- those in which the combustion process proceeds as quickly as possible, which gives good results, bright flame. This is ensured by absolutely dry firewood (also -) and a special stacking of firewood, due to which there is an intensive air supply (mainly due to natural draft). The purpose of this type of fire is to illuminate the bivouac and cook food. In special cases, a fiery fire can be used as a signal fire. They are not suitable for long-term heating (for example, during an overnight stay), because they quickly burn out.
fires- those in which, on the contrary, the combustion process is slowed down or even represents smoldering. For this purpose, the air supply is limited - again using a special design; also for this purpose, firewood from those types of wood that produce hot, “long-lasting” coals is used. Such fires give little light, but heat (in the form infrared radiation) are distinguished in order. They dry clothes, cook food (including by roasting over coals), and use them for long-term heating.
Smoke fires- as the name suggests, they are designed to produce large volumes of smoke.

Depending on the weather conditions available firewood, and the current capabilities of the tourist - there are several ready-made options for each type of fire.

The Three Most Useful and Important Bonfires

These are the types of fires that my companions and I use constantly on our outings. Tested by time, hundreds of cubes of dead wood, and thousands of megajoules of thermal energy.

"Taiga"

Rice. 1. The simplest version of the fire: “taiga”. Firewood of different sizes is tightly stacked parallel to each other. Subsequently, as they burn, they can be tossed and slightly crossed in order to optimize the combustion process.

I believe that the evolutionary path of the genus homo began with him. Primitive man - having barely learned to burn brushwood (and, by the way, having ceased to be a monkey) - burned precisely “taiga” fires in his caves. Why am I so sure of this? Yes, because information about this type of fire is embedded in the subconscious of each of us at the level of instincts, and is transmitted with genetic memory. The habit of stacking firewood more tightly parallel to each other appears in childhood, and is observed even in girls!

Rice. 2. Primitive hunters lit a “taiga” fire and are warming themselves.

I dare to note that in wood-burning stoves, before ignition, logs are laid out precisely according to the principle of a “taiga” fire, which once again confirms the fact that this fire is the most traditional and universal.

There are several varieties of this fire (“hunter’s hearth”, “Tunguska”, “cannon”, etc.). They will be discussed below.

Function: hot
Purpose: universal. You can cook food, dry clothes and shoes, and warm up.
Breeding method: first, in the place where the fire is supposed to be lit, a seed is lit (which can be some kind of fast-burning flaming fire made from small branches and wood chips, for example, a “hut” (see below)), then logs are laid on it. As soon as they char and begin to smolder, consider that the process has begun.
Advantages: very good for cooking, and after achieving some skill in laying logs, the boiler can simply be placed on top - no devices like crossbars, hooks, etc. are needed. It heats well and has a low flame. Firewood consumption is quite tolerable.
Flaws: not detected. Although, some tourists may complain that periodically the firewood in the fire needs to be moved towards each other, as well as new ones must be added. In my opinion, if this is a disadvantage, it is only if a tourist suddenly decides to spend the night next to the “taiga” without a tent. But for me, for example, this circumstance did not interfere with my sleep at all (over the years of forays, I developed the habit of quickly waking up in the middle of the night, quickly stirring up the firewood, putting it on, and just as quickly falling asleep). In general, for spending the night there is another type of fire - nodya (see below).

“Hut”, also known as “cone”

Rice. 3. Bonfire “hut”. It flares up quickly and burns out just as quickly.

Bonfire with accelerated process combustion - is ensured due to the characteristic design, due to which good traction occurs.

Function: fiery.
Purpose: in demand when you need to quickly get a hot fire. In principle, it is universal - can be used for lighting, cooking and heating. But we mainly use it to light the previous fire.
Breeding method: The firewood is stacked in a “hut” - thin twigs and highly flammable material go into the very middle. Then - thicker branches, and so on. The thickest firewood will lie outside (and support the entire structure). It is set on fire from below - from the middle. If laid out correctly, one match is enough.
Advantages: flares up quickly and produces a lot of flame. It illuminates the surrounding area quite well.
Flaws: one of the most uneconomical fires in terms of wood consumption, which must be constantly added to it. Otherwise, it burns out pretty quickly.

“Nodya”, also known as “two logs”, “three logs”, etc.

Rice. 4. Classic “nodya” of three logs. Please note that the rear lower log (far left) is slightly larger in diameter than the others. This is an optional condition, however, it allows you to somewhat optimize the heat transfer in one direction (to the right).

In principle, this is the same “taiga” fire, only “evolved” towards ideal heating. It looks like a forest “heater”. Most traditional version- three-log.

There can also be one-, two-, and four-log (according to some sources, this is not the limit) fires, where the logs are held above each other thanks to four pegs driven near the ends on both sides, or thanks to a stop that supports a stake driven into the top log .

Rice. 5. Double-log “node” - logs are fixed with pegs, for which it is best to use raw and thicker wood - in order to delay the moment of their burning. However, usually by the time the pegs cease to perform their function, the contacting surfaces of the logs have time to become flat.

For a double-log “node”, it is better to cut the logs on adjacent sides. This will make the combustion process more efficient, also in in this case the need for fixing the logs (in pegs or a stop) may disappear altogether (of course, if the lower log lies stably on the ground).

There is a variant of “nodya”, where a single log is used. First, it is split from the side - like a book, widening the gap with a pair of stakes. Then they place it vertically and ignite the seed inside. The fire, thanks to the draft, quickly rises through the crack. After some time - when inner surface coals are formed - the log is returned to a horizontal position and put in place.

Function: hot
Purpose: heating during the night.
Breeding method: the seed is placed between the logs and ignited. Another option is an additional fire, the coals of which are used instead of kindling.
Advantages:“nodya” is a powerful thing! It burns for a very long time (from 8 hours to a day and a half - depending on the thickness of the logs) and warms well the tourist sleeping next to it. The option with one log at the base can be lit in the snow without fear that the fire will fail.
Flaws: Before you light it, you’ll have to tinker, and no matter what kind of firewood will be suitable, only a long, thick piece of wood, with a diameter of at least 20-30 cm.

Special bonfires

These are, so to speak, “narrow-profile fires.” Designed for specific purposes, for example, for cooking.

"Hunter's Hearth"

Rice. 6. “The Hunter’s Hearth.”

A type of “taiga”, different from the usual version the fact that at the edges of the firewood stack there are two good logs. The result is a kind of “barbecue” on which you can put skewers, or place a pan on top.

Function: hot
Purpose: cooking.
Advantages: as mentioned above, the pot does not need to be suspended.
Flaws: in principle, this is not a drawback, because it can be eliminated in no time. The logs lying along the edges shield the side rays of heat - all of it goes up, so you won’t be able to sleep near this fire and warm yourself. Usually we do this - during the day we use the “hearth” in a standard configuration, and closer to night we place the already burnt-out side logs on top of the coals - with the smoldering side out, and place some more firewood on top. That is, we’ll convert the fire into a regular “taiga” one.

“Finnish candle”, also known as “Indian candle”, also known as “wooden primus stove”

Rice. 7. The essence of the simplest “Finnish candle”.

There are several varieties of the “Finnish candle,” but in almost all of them their meaning boils down to creating a “combustion chamber” inside a short log and lighting a fire in it. To do this, the log is split into two or more parts, after which they are placed next to each other. First, the core of the chopped logs is lightly selected. You don’t have to choose, but then the gaps between them must be left sufficient for air flow. The fire is started in the middle from the top, usually with wood chips, a flammable liquid, or both.

Sometimes the log is not split, but cuts are made in it crosswise - about 3/4 of its length from above. But the people did not stop there, and developed the “ideal Finnish candle.” Its main difference from the others is engineering perfection, optimal performance and the most precise, directed flame.

It is done like this: the log is split into 4 logs, then on each of them we retreat 10 cm from the bottom, and along the sharp edge (where the core is) we make a transverse notch 3-5 cm deep. After this, you should hit the upper end of each log with a hatchet - Having retreated the same distance from the same edge, the core will chip, but not completely, but just before the notch. Now, if you put the logs together, you will get a “glass” with very thick walls, the internal cavity of which will be the “combustion chamber”. But it’s too early to light a fire—it’s necessary to create a channel for air to flow in. To do this, any two adjacent pieces are cut out along a transverse groove on the contacting surfaces - from the lower end of the selected core to the bark. When put together, they form that same channel. Now you can tie the entire structure with rope or wire.

Rice. 8. “The ideal Finnish candle” - appearance and drawing.

The flame can be adjusted by covering the bottom “air” hole. There is also the possibility of reusable use of the “Finnish candle”: after cooking, we block the air supply and place something flat on the upper end, for example, an empty pot or a flat stone. You can simply turn the log over. The fire and smoldering inside stop within a few minutes, after which the “Finnish candle” is ready for the next use. And some tourists don’t bother and just extinguish it with water. Lighting a “wooden primus stove” before the next cooking session is not a problem at all if you have the right amount of kindling.

The only additional detail: it is better to keep the pot at some distance from the end of the log - in order to provide clearance for the draft to exit. This can be achieved by hanging it above the end, or by placing something under it, for example, several small stones.

Some tourists practice assembling a “Finnish candle” from three round logs placed together.

Rice. 9. Finnish candle made of three round logs.

Function: fiery.
Purpose: purely food preparation, and to some extent lighting. The three-log version is capable of some heating.
Advantages: directional flame. There is no need to hang the pot - it is simply placed on top. Single-log options - where all structural elements are fastened with wire, or are a continuation of the unsawed base of the log, have a very useful feature— the ability to drag the fire from place to place in your hands.
Flaws: No matter what kind of firewood is suitable. All varieties of this fire require a saw, and it is also advisable to have lighter fluid on hand.

"Kamelyok"

This type of fire is used to quickly obtain boiling water and cook large quantity food in places where good firewood is tight, but full of all sorts of garbage like brushwood, wood chips, etc. Essentially, it replaces a folding wood chip stove.

Rice. 10. "Kamelyok" On the left are three cobblestones installed in the form of a hearth. On the right are the same ones, “loaded” with brushwood and with a pot placed on top.

This is no longer a fire, but actually a full-fledged hearth. The design consists of three large stones, the shape of which more or less approaches a parallelepiped. It is also possible to lay out a “fireplace” from a larger number of smaller stones. The main condition is to create a combustion chamber with an open wall, the bottom of the pot acting as a roof.

Function: fiery.
Purpose: for tea and quick cooking.
Advantages: compact, very economical, invisible.
Flaws: requires three bricks, or a certain number of cobblestones.

"Smoke"

The purpose of this fire is to get a good smoke. Usually it is a medium-sized “hut” (it’s easier to light and it produces a lot of flame), covered with a decent layer of fresh branches on top evergreens(pine, spruce and other spruce branches). In the absence of these, you can also use branches deciduous trees, tall grass and so on.

The principle of operation is as follows: if necessary, the “hut” quickly ignites and the flame begins to burn everything piled on top, and it, in turn, smokes mercilessly.

Function: smoke
Purpose: usually used by seasoned tourists to scare away midges from the camp (for example, in cases where repellents are forgotten at home, and there are tons of mosquitoes). But keep in mind - there must be a lot, a lot of smoke, otherwise you will only make the little vampires laugh. This fire can be used to signal an airplane (the column of smoke will be visible from a distance of several kilometers). In particularly advanced cases, it is ignited to create a smoke screen - in order to mislead the most likely enemy (for example, in role-playing games).
Advantages: high-quality cloud of smoke.
Flaws: the need for an adequate amount of spruce branches in the vicinity.

"Cannon", aka "Tunguska"

Rice. 11. Bonfire “cannon”, also known as “Tunguska”.

In essence, it is a “taiga”, made up of long poles or logs, which rest with their burning end on a log lying across it. This is necessary - of course - for traction, and also so that the entire structure can stand on the snow and not fall down due to its melting. As it burns, the poles move.

Function: hot
Purpose: universal.
Advantages: as mentioned above, this fire can be built in deep snow (or on). The log also plays the role of a heat reflector to some extent.
Flaws: the need to periodically move burning logs. But keep in mind that at any moment a large piece can fall off from any of them and roll towards an unsuspecting tourist.

"Trench"

While hiking with a large number participants, to prepare food “for the whole crowd”, such a clever fire as a “trench” will be useful.

Rice. 12. Fire “trench”. The length of the dug hole corresponds to the length of all the pots available to tourists + small space for air flow and laying firewood, width - according to the narrowest pot, depth - approximately 20 centimeters.

Function: hot
Advantages: You can put several pots or pots on such a fire at once. In addition, it allows you to save wood.
Flaws: the need for a shovel.
Purpose: cooking large quantities of food.

"Useless" fires

Useless - from the point of view of an ordinary forest reveler, or an old-school fishing tourist - like our brother, who is used to simplifying everything. Although, in some special situations, they may come in handy.

"Polynesian"

Have you been to Tahiti? So we do too, so we don’t see any point in lighting this fire, except for fun.

Rice. 13. Polynesian fire.

It is a banal “taiga” fire, for some reason placed “on the butt” in a specially dug hole 30 centimeters deep. Thanks to this, it shines well and burns out faster.

Function: fiery.
Purpose: heating, drying clothes.
Advantages: They say that if the logs are not close to each other, but slightly apart, it illuminates the surrounding space very well.
Flaws: the need for a shovel.

“Well”, also known as “log house”

Rice. 14. Bonfire “well”.

This type of fire is very popular among some tourists, but it has not caught on with us. The reason is the need to split wood lengthwise (required to ensure the stability of the structure). In my opinion, it’s easier to breed “taiga” and wait a bit than to waste time and energy splitting logs.

Function: fiery.
Purpose: cooking.
Advantages: thanks to the full vertical draft, it gives an excellent flame on which you can quickly boil tea or cook something. It also does not require hanging the pot - you can simply place it on top.
Flaws: does not function for long - until it burns out and collapses. After this, the “well” successfully evolves into a slightly scattered “taiga”. For this reason, if the appearance of the fire begins to raise suspicions, it is better not to place the pot on it, but to hang it.

"Reflector"

Rice. 15. “Reflector” fire.

It is to some extent a hybrid of a “taiga” fire (in the “hunter’s hearth” variation) and a node.

Function: hot
Purpose: heating during an overnight stay; you can cook food on the remains of this fire.
Advantages: They say it heats very well - due to the fact that heat is radiated only in one direction.
Flaws: complexity of the design (you have to tinker with constructing the reflector, and on top of everything else, you need to select special logs for it). Also, apparently, this fire requires periodic addition of firewood. Isn’t it easier then to “portray” a node?

"Star"

Attention! The most “useless” fire according to the Urochishche website!

Rice. 16. Bonfire “star”.

Several logs are placed in the shape of a star, and a flame is lit between them. As the logs burn out, they should be moved towards the center.

Function: fiery (sort of).
Purpose: Rumor has it that it’s good to cook on the “star”.
Advantages: even if there is, they are covered by the main disadvantage of the fire. However, one of them is worth noting - the “star” one is very economical in terms of log consumption.
Flaws: the main drawback is that the tourist needs to constantly monitor the entire structure and promptly push the logs, which - if dry - quickly burn out. Wouldn't it be easier to use more simple options? Another point is bulkiness: the logs stick out in all directions like cuttlefish and occupy a decent area. Our experience with this fire ended quite eloquently - after fiddling briefly with the “star” and tripping over it a couple of times, we reconfigured this “miracle of technical thought” into a regular “taiga” one, after which we didn’t blow our heads - and made some tea, and they cooked porridge with meat and warmed themselves to their heart's content.

“Dakota Hearth”, or simply “Dakota”

Rice. 17. “Dakota Hearth.”

According to the “official” legend, this type of fire was invented by North American Indians. My companions and I are inclined to believe that all this is disinformation and another attempt to hide the truth. And it was developed by the CIA, because the Dakota is an ideal spy fire.

Function: hot
Purpose: exclusively for cooking food. Well, you can still warm your hands.
Advantages: there is virtually no flame at all, no smoke - like from a stove (at first there is, then only a light trickle). The fire is very inconspicuous. It is also economical in terms of firewood. Essentially, it’s a stove located in the ground.
Flaws: To create this fire you will have to pretend to be a gopher and dig a decent hole. It also sometimes requires a metal grid or several pieces of reinforcement. You won't get much warmth from the "Dakota". Let it be fueled by entertaining tourists, or by intelligence agents of the most likely enemy, who were thrown into the Siberian taiga for the purpose of espionage and sabotage. We will use the “taiga” or “fireplace” in the old fashioned way.

"Pyramid"

In essence, it’s a huge “hut.” Only good for pioneer rallies - when you need a powerful visual effect- to delight young “Indians”.

Function: fiery.
Purpose: as mentioned above - purely pyrotechnic.
Advantages: very bright lighting.
Flaws: very uneconomical in terms of firewood.

"Lattice"

Rice. 19. Bonfire “grid”.

It is somewhat reminiscent of a well, only without a central shaft, because in its design it is an ordinary stack, the thickness of the logs in which decreases with height. According to the instruction manual, it is ignited from above, after which the combustion zone gradually moves downwards.

Function: hot
Purpose: a bonfire for a crowd of people. Heating, drying clothes, you can also cook a bucket of soup on it.
Advantages: It gives off a lot of heat and the light is very good. And, judging by all estimates, it can be bred in deep snow or in a swamp. True, after the combustion zone reaches the bottom row of logs, it will still begin to collapse.
Flaws: like all similar fires, it is uneconomical.

There are many types of fires, and we need them, like the fire itself, in the forest for various purposes - for cooking, heating, lighting in the dark and scaring away wild animals. Let's look at the main types of fires and talk about how to light them.

It is important to light a fire with care to prevent the possibility of a fire. It’s best to use the previous fire pit. Make sure there are no stumps, dry grass, leaves, or bush branches nearby. Clear the area thoroughly. Do not leave the fire, but carefully extinguish it. To do this, pour a bucket of water over the fire and cover it with earth.

Bonfire - hut

You will need: kindling, tree branches, matches or other means for ignition.

This is a famous type of fire. Small branches are placed in the shape of the hut, and kindling is placed in the center. As it burns, larger branches are added.

This type of fire is good for cooking, heating and lighting. The downside is that it requires constant addition of fuel.

For kindling, birch bark is suitable - the “paper” bark of a birch tree, which is spaced from the trunk. It happens both on standing wood and on fallen wood. If there is none, then bark that fits tightly to the birch trunk will do. In this case, in order not to injure the tree or expose the trunk, remove only upper layer birch bark To do this, a longitudinal cut is made, and half of the birch bark is easily removed. Also suitable for kindling are spruce bark with resin, dry grass, small twigs, moss, etc.

Bonfire star

You will need: an axe, kindling, up to 10 long logs, matches or other means for lighting.

Such a fire does not burn intensely, but is economical and does not require frequent addition of new branches. It requires up to 10 long logs. The logs are laid in the form of an asterisk, so that they diverge from one point in a circle. The center of the star is set on fire, and as it burns, the logs are moved towards the center.

Bonfire well

You will need: axe, kindling, logs, matches or other kindling material.

The logs are stacked in a log house. We put kindling - wood chips, twigs, dry grass, chopped small firewood - inside the log house and set it on fire. After some time, the logs themselves are engaged.

In such a fire, the logs burn slowly, and a lot of coals will be created, releasing high temperature. It is suitable for cooking, heating and lighting.

The advantage of this fire is good air circulation and oxygen access to the burning wood.

Log fire - Finnish candle

You will need: saw, axe, log, kindling, matches or other kindling device.

Another easy way lighting a fire, which will also allow you to easily cook food. Take a log, 15-35 cm in diameter, or saw off part of the log. It is important that the log is cut from the log clearly vertically, so that it can stand securely on its base, and on top there is a horizontal surface on which to place a saucepan or kettle.

Chop the log with an ax or saw into four to six pieces. Gather the pieces back into the log so that they stand vertically, but slightly apart, about two centimeters. In the resulting space, place kindling - twigs, dry grass and birch bark. Place the twigs and wood chips horizontally, in different directions, in the space between the parts of the log, and then set fire to the resulting filler. The kindling will burn out, and then the firewood itself will take over. You will get a reliable, upward-pointing flame. Since the logs stand vertically and are collected together, a heat. Adjust the temperature by moving the logs apart and moving them apart. And since there is space between the firewood, this promotes air circulation, as a result of which the flame does not go out. Place a pot or frying pan on top of this firewood for cooking, or place a kettle and boil water.

U this method there are variations. Instead of splitting the log into pieces, you can make cuts to the middle of the log. Another option is to use several whole logs instead of parts of one log; this will increase the operating time of the Finnish candle.

Bonfire Pyramid

You will need: an axe, kindling, logs of various sizes, matches or other means for ignition.

It's a slow fire, but long burning. It is useless when the logs are damp, since they are stacked tightly and there is very little air circulation. However, in dry weather, this is an excellent type of fire, allowing you to practically not worry about maintaining it.

The fire pyramid consists of several layers. At the bottom there are two large logs laid in parallel. Several logs of smaller diameter are placed on them, in a continuous layer across the bottom two logs. The third layer is even thinner logs and the same across the second layer, and then we continue in the same spirit up to 8-10 layers. Kindling is placed on top, which is set on fire.

Bonfire Dakota

You will need: a shovel, kindling, firewood, matches or other means of ignition.

It is done in the ground. A hole is dug 30-50 cm deep and 30 cm in diameter. After the cylindrical hole has been dug, step back 10 cm from the top and expand the bottom of the hole so that the hole takes the shape of a light bulb. And then, stepping back 30 centimeters from the dug hole, dig another hole with a tunnel to the first one. Dig the second hole in relation to the wind: if the wind blows from the left, then dig a hole to the left of the first, if the wind blows from the right, then dig a hole to the right. This is needed for traction. Next, we put kindling in the first hole and set it on fire, and then gradually add larger branches and logs.

This type of fire is suitable for windy areas where it is difficult to light a fire on the surface. Such a fire does not smoke and is hardly noticeable, therefore, if you want to hide your presence, it is better to place the fuel no higher than the edges of the pit, otherwise the fire will smoke. At night, this fire is also not noticeable, since the flames are mainly concentrated below the surface of the earth.

On a Dakota fire you can quickly boil water or cook food in a pot. It is convenient to regulate the draft of this fire by opening and closing the second pit.

Bonfire in the winter forest – Nodya

You will need: an axe, kindling or coals from another fire, two logs of the same size - 2-3 m in length, two poles - 4-5 meters in length, two hook branches, matches or other means for ignition.

This is actually not even a fire, but a smoldering powerful source of heat. It is reliable, long lasting, warm and discreet as it does not burn brightly. This is a good way to start a fire in the snowy winter. Nodya heats for a very long time, but it is better to take into account that it is designed to heat only one person.

The node looks like two logs 2-3 m long, laid on top of each other horizontally, with a wall with a small gap of 2-2.5 cm. To prevent the top log from rolling down, a special hanging system is made of two poles and two branches-hooks.

For nodes, it is better to take standing wood, as it is important that it be dry. Two large logs of equal length are required. You also need 4-5 meter poles with a fork at the end. It is important that the poles are elastic. We insert them into the snow or under a tree trunk at an angle to the top log. You also need two hook branches.

We hang the top log. We make a split from the top of the edge of the log with a strong blow and hammer the hanger hook into the cut. We do the same on the other side. We take a log and hang it on poles by the hangers. The poles should rest against the hooks. To do this, you can support the poles from below with logs, branches, etc. The poles hold the top log, preventing it from rolling down during the burning process.

There are two ways to light a node.

Wedges are driven into the side of the lower log, on which the pole is placed. It turns out to be a shelf on which coals from a regular daytime fire are placed. And the node flares up from these coals.
Second way. We need to stuff kindling between the logs. To do this, initially create a gap between the logs using support sticks. Having stuffed the kindling, we set it on fire, the knot flares up, and we remove the supports.

Nodya should burn along the entire length of the logs, this is very important. If you do not use the ends of the logs, the middle will burn out, the gap between the logs will increase and the node will go out. If it smolders throughout the log, it will work for up to 15 hours.

Important! You won't be able to install the node the first time! In order to start winter overnight stays with nadya, you will need a lot of training setups first.

Bonfire in a wet forest

You will need: axe, knife, logs, branches different diameters, matches or other source of fire, tarpaulin or awning.

To light a fire in a wet forest you will need to get dry wood chips. How to do it?

Wet twigs are not suitable for this. Take a thick log, split it into pieces and plan dry shavings from the core, which will turn out to be dry. You can cut the lower branches from the trees, and by cutting away the damp upper wood, you will get to the dry center. Thin, dead spruce trees are also suitable, and for the fire you need fragments of trunks coated with resin, because It protects the wood from moisture penetration, and it is also possible to plan dry chips from this wood.

The process of collecting shavings and wood chips is long – an hour or even two. However, if you have a lot of fine wood shavings, the fire will burn quickly and easily. During rain or snow, to prevent the shavings from getting wet, cover yourself and the shavings with a piece of polyethylene or tarpaulin, or collect the shavings under an awning.

When there are a lot of shavings, melt them and place small wet sticks around them - vertically, in the form of a hut. As they dry, they will start to burn. Next, install larger sticks, etc.

To maintain a blazing fire, collect spruce bark with resin, as well as birch bark, which contains flammable tar.

Gas burners instead of a fire for cooking

You will need: gas-burner and a balloon.

Gas-burner- an excellent source of fire for cooking; with its help you can easily and quickly heat up a kettle or cook food for 1-3 people. You don't have to waste time making a fire, getting coals, and after cooking, putting out the fire.

Also, by using a burner, you do not harm nature. Fires leave burnt circles for several years; a burner allows you to avoid this.

The disadvantage of a burner compared to a fire is that it weighs a lot, and you have to carry the cylinders on yourself. Also with low temperatures and in the mountains the burners do not work well. But otherwise it is a good source of fire. Especially if you go to nature reserves where fires are not allowed. Also, a gas burner is a good option for a fire source in a wet forest, where it is difficult to organize a fire, and you don’t want to spend hours preparing coals.

You, who have been living on this planet for a long time (at least 20 years, right?), know how to lace your shoes, set up a tent, and build a fire. And you already feel like gray-haired dinosaurs, having eaten more than one bag of salt in such matters. But then a mushroom picker grandfather will come out to your clearing, glance at you from under his bushy eyebrows, and immediately realize: greenhorns. No, not because they are beardless. He just looks at your fire. And that’s it – the diagnosis is ready.

Because exactly according to type of fire one can judge the experience of the tourist. You won't cook soup from a full carcass, will you? Or make it from a parquet block? Right, each job has its own specifications, skills, tools and materials? This also applies very much to the fire. If your friend tells you that he has been on all the campaigns of the century, and at the same time makes one “pioneer” fire for cooking, and for drying things, and for heating, without skimping on firewood, according to the principle “the louder, the more musical,” this means only one thing: your friend, to put it mildly, is an incorrigible dreamer.

After all bonfire is a tool. It is different in every case. And if you learn to make fires based on your needs and capabilities, this skill will be very useful in life, and maybe even save it. Because a properly built fire will meet the stated requirements and will do the work that is assigned to it. I invite you to consider with me the most famous and effective types bonfires

Rest fires

You walk through the forest for a long time, following the route and schedule. The place to spend the night is still far away, but your legs are buzzing and your stomach will soon learn to say how hungry it is. You are all in the web, pine needles or just wet from the recent rain, suddenly you suddenly go around the last tree, and here is a clearing where you can rest. Hooray! Down with the backpack. The organisms, suffering to sit by the fire, rushed like elk into the forest to collect twigs and branches. Halt.

Bonfire "Shalash"

If you're just going to relax burning flame, you will be quite satisfied with a “hut” type fire. It is done simply - smaller branches, and any dry plant dust is folded into a pile on the ground; above it, thicker branches and branches are placed in such a way that the upper ends converge at one point, while the lower ones are on the ground, and the middle rests on the inner pile for kindling. Such a fire produces a large and fast flame. You can warm up next to it. But it also burns out very quickly.

Hunter's Hearth

If you want to refresh yourself with sandwiches at a rest stop, then you don’t need to stuff them into yourself dry - make tea. And it’s better to boil a kettle on a fire, which we call “ hunter's hearth" We place 2 not very thick logs in parallel at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. And between them are small branches and kindling, which we light. It is very convenient to place a kettle or pot on the logs, and now you have aromatic tea that will quickly restore strength and lift your spirits.

We rested, chewed, and were on our way. Many more interesting things await you along the way, which you will discuss in the camp, when setting up tents, preparing dinner and evening gatherings around the fire. After all, here you will already build a professional fire, like experienced tourists, with all the subtleties and conventions. For example, as “kitchen”.

Cooking fires

Kitchen fire

Breed kitchen fire you start with a “hut” fire, only larger. When the fire is already well lit, place 2 dry logs in parallel on both sides of it with a distance of 10 cm from each other at one end and 20 cm at the other. It is convenient to place teapots and coffee pots on the narrow “wall”, and pots and pans on the wide one. This way you can cook several dishes at once, just like at home on a multi-burner stove. By tossing branches or raking coals, you can create different temperatures combustion: it's like turning on the gas on a stove.

Bonfire "Trench"

But this variety bonfire very convenient in open areas in windy weather. For it, you dig a groove in the ground (see the length and width yourself) in such a way that you can hang camp boilers over it. It is recommended to dig a groove along the wind vector, with a slightly widened end towards it - this way your flame will always be “in good shape”. The walls of the trench will prevent the coals from disintegrating far, and you can regulate the bubbling in the pots by increasing or decreasing the height of the dishes above the fire.

Bonfire "Pit"

By the name you already understand that here you need to dig a hole. The bottom and lower row of walls will be properly lined with stones. This helps conserve heat, thus saving firewood, and options for using such bonfire– here you can not only boil water, but also bake, for example, potatoes in the ashes. Do you like potatoes baked in the fire? And a spit on spits installed above the pit will even help you bake fish or meat.

If on the way to your overnight stay you get caught in the rain or catch a cloud on a pass in the mountains (a common occurrence in the Carpathians), you will definitely need to dry your clothes and warm up so that your further journey is not overshadowed by a cold or in general. They will help you arrange heat therapy the following types bonfires

Fires for heating and drying

Bonfire " "

Such bonfire very popular in northern regions and taiga. They are usually used hunters And trappers. Meter pegs are driven into the ground in pairs. The first 2 with a distance of 10-30 cm between each other. The second pair is located in the same way, but at a distance of 1-2 meters, and maybe more, from the first. This depends on the length of the logs that you will use for the fire, by the way, as well as the distance inside a pair of pegs - on the thickness of these logs. These notorious logs need to be placed between the pegs in the form of a wall. Have you warmed up yet? That's not all! You set fire from below and create a clothes dryer for yourself. It burns for a long time, enough for everyone.

Reflector fire

In principle, technically, this is a symbiosis of the fires of Nodya and the Hunter’s Hearth, already known to you. Only Nodya is small, and acts as a reflective wall, reflecting the heat of the fire in the right direction. The wall is located close to fire pit, and at an angle of 90° to the surface.

This reflective fire provides a lot of heat, which is very convenient for small companies. And being alone is simply an irreplaceable option for overnight stays in the forest. Make a second wall-reflector behind your back or behind your place of lying, and even with a small flame you will be very warm and cozy.

Bonfire "Pyramid"

The basis for this bonfire Two thick, dry logs are used, which are used here instead of the first row of firewood. On top of them, perpendicularly - in the form of lattice rods - thinner logs are placed quite tightly to each other. On them - perpendicular to the 2nd floor - lay out the third floor, etc. Rising in height, the walls gradually narrow, forming a kind of cone of square cross-section.

A type of Pyramid can be called a fire, where the outer walls are like in the Pyramid, and the inside is a fire-hut. By alternating the number of floors of the walls with wet and, you can achieve long-term burning without adding firewood.

Bonfire "Star"

This fire requires 5-10 thick, dry logs. Do you remember how kids draw the sun? We make rays from logs, and the kindling itself will be our sun. As the firewood burns, it moves toward the center, providing warmth, light and a feeling of security for a long time.

This bonfire It’s also convenient when you don’t want to or don’t have anything to chop wood with - just find required quantity fallen young tree trunks birch trees or pine trees.

Taiga fire

Such a fire is indispensable when you need long-term warmth and there is a canopy over your head - maybe a rocky ledge, or you came across a hunting canopy on a hike, and there is slush and wetness all around. We separate the initial bonfire- yes, at least a hut. While we are waiting for coals, we prepare a long thick log, which we place near the coals along the canopy. We place thinner logs on it, star-shaped and on the leeward side. This fire is good because it burns for a long time without adding firewood and “distributes” the heat widely - over a large area.

Regardless of the type of fire you intend to build, you should ALWAYS adhere to the following rules:

The fire follows protect from strong wind;
The fire must be provided air access, otherwise it will burn poorly and smoke;
For heating it is better to dilute wide fire, and for cooking - a small cone-shaped one;
Never Do not leave unattended fire.

That, perhaps, is all the wisdom in kostrology for beginners. I hope this knowledge will help you feel much more confident in the difficult hiking life. And so that such extensive letter descriptions do not evaporate the romance in your souls, I will finally read you a poem Mikhail Treger about the fire.

BONFIRE

To light a fire
It's not enough to take out the matches,
To light a fire
It's not enough to take firewood,
A real fire is cunning
He hides his habits
How the crafty devil hides
Where the “fire-grass” burns.

To light a fire
I need cold, and I need evening,
This means that you need one
Who is cold and dark,
And the fire continues to argue,
Where there is nothing else to save,
Well, who will light it up?
It's basically the same.

Continents can be confused
Confusing division with multiplication
Life is fun, big lyceum
Everything will be fixed, but
Despite all alchemists
Don’t confuse decay with burning,
It will only show in the end
There is no room for improvement.

And now it’s definitely goodbye. Yes, and be healthy to me!

The article was prepared specifically for the 7th issue of the magazine .

Light a fire for an experienced tourist - a couple of trifles. You should break dry twigs near the tree trunk: pine, birch - anything will do. They are always dry near the trunk. No for seeding best material than a crumpled newspaper. After small branches have caught fire, thicker dry twigs must be added. The food for the fire is firewood. And what you “feed” the fire depends on how efficiently and comfortably you will use it. Never cut down living trees for firewood: they burn very poorly. Damp branches also burn only to create a smoke screen from mosquitoes.

The most the best firewood– pine. They burn brightly and leave virtually no coals or ash. Burning pine needles is very dangerous: flying sparks can become a source of forest fire; in extreme cases, they will burn through the tent canopy. Birch firewood Only those that have dried out, lost their bark and have not fallen to the ground are good. A fallen birch tree remaining in the birch bark will rot in two years and will not burn in a fire. Fir firewood is rarely not rotten and therefore is not suitable for a fire. Dried aspen trees - good firewood, but you should always remember that sparks fly from aspen.

In the steppe, even if there are no trees nearby, you can always find honeysuckle or cotoneaster bushes and use dead, dry branches for firewood. Once the fire is hot, you can add thicker wood. If the fire is low, you can try to gently fan it by waving a piece of cardboard. There are many ways to create a fire. It should be remembered that fires are lit for cooking when camping. With a large fire, hanging or removing the pot is problematic. The burning fire represents great danger and may cause a fire. In the evening, before going to bed, the fire must be extinguished - this is the law, since in the evening the wind blows up the remaining coals and a rekindled fire can cause a lot of trouble. Before leaving the camp site for the night, the fire must be reliably extinguished - doused with water, covered with earth or sand.

Bonfire "Trench" used for cooking in windy weather in open areas. To set up such a fire, you need to dig a groove in the ground of the required length and width, allowing you to install camp boilers over it. The dug groove should be located downwind and have a wide cone-shaped bevel on the windward side. When setting up such a fire, do not forget to take care of the removed turf.

The “Trench” fire is convenient because it does not require a large amount of firewood. IN cold weather, finding himself in the forest without sleeping bag, with its help you can equip a place to relax. To preserve heat after the firewood burns out, cover the pit with wooden logs, a thin layer of earth and grass. It won't be difficult to do it from above.

. To set up a fire of this type, you need to dig a hole in the ground. To preserve heat, it is advisable to line the bottom of the pit with stones. On such a fire you can boil water, cook food, or bake a roast in the ashes.

Bonfire "Star". To light such a fire you will need thick, dry wood. Lay them out in a star or fan pattern, as shown in the picture. As the firewood burns, it is moved toward the center. Such a fire can burn for a very long time.

. To set up this type of fire, you need to drive four pegs into the ground, between which you place firewood in the form of a fence. The fire is lit from below. It can burn for a long time, releasing a lot of heat if you mix dry and damp firewood. This type of fire is very convenient for drying clothes.

It is a mixed version of the “Nodya” and “Hunter’s Hearth” fires. Such a fire gives a lot of heat, and it’s good to warm up next to it in the winter cold.

spread between two dry logs, which are laid in such a way that a cauldron, frying pan or kettle can be installed on them.

. At the base of this type of fire, two thick dry logs are placed, on which firewood of smaller and smaller diameters is stacked in several rows in the form of a dense lattice. This type of fire is best suited for joint events with the participation of the entire navigator squad.

A slightly modified version of the “Grate” can be used for cooking, heating people, drying clothes, shoes, etc. Such a fire can be lit if dry or damp wood is available. As dry wood burns, it dries out wet wood, so the fire can burn for quite a long time.

Gives a big flame. It is suitable for quickly heating people and drying clothes, but it quickly burns out.

The simplest device for placing dishes over the fire with a flat bottom is a three-legged stand. This can be done by placing three roughly identical stones around the fire, or by sticking three metal pegs from the tent kit directly into the hot coals. Both stones and metal pegs should be located as if at the vertices of an imaginary equilateral triangle.

Depending on the conditions of the hike, other types of fires can be used in practice. For example, when building a fire in a swamp, you must first make a “foundation”. To do this, you should lay several logs in a row and build a fire of any type on them. To retain heat longer after the fire burns out, the coals should be sprinkled with ashes and a little earth. The heat in this case can last up to 10 hours.

General rules for making fires:

The fire must be protected from strong winds.
The fire must be provided with access to air, otherwise it will burn poorly and smoke.
For heating it is better to build a wide fire, and for cooking - a small cone-shaped one.
The heat from the fire goes up, so the bed by the fire needs to be made higher than its flame.

introduce the types of fires and their purpose;
teach folding Various types fires and keep the fire going.

Material support: logs, branches, sticks, moss, pine cones, wire, tin can, knife with awl.

Progress of the lesson

I. Organizational moment

What did we learn in the last lesson? That's right, we learned:

– choose and prepare a place for the fire;

– became familiar with the types of kindling and fire safety rules.

To natural conditions to warm up, signal about ourselves and cook food, we still need to learn how to build different types of fires and maintain the fire.

II. Checking homework

- Let's review the material from the last lesson. Answer the questions 1-5 on pp. 78-79.

– Additional questions:

Where should you not make fires?

– On a peat bog, in a field among dry grass, in dry pine forests during a dry period, on rocky placers during a dry period, under the crowns of trees, at the roots.

What should you do before leaving the parking lot?

– Collect and burn all the garbage, and then put out your fire: do not be lazy to fill it thoroughly.

III. Explanation of new material

1. Types of fires.

Picture 1. General rules making fires

A fire is needed for heating and cooking; fire scares away wild animals and can serve as an excellent signaling device.
The fire must be protected from strong winds.
The fire must be provided with access to air, otherwise it will burn poorly and smoke.
For heating it is better to build a wide fire, and for cooking - a small cone-shaped one.
The heat from the fire goes up, so the bed by the fire needs to be made higher than its flame.
The fire should be safe for you and as productive as possible!!!

Figure 2. Main types of fires: smoke, fire and flame

A smoke fire is lit to ward off mosquitoes and midges, as well as to signal one’s location.
A fiery fire is lit to illuminate the bivouac area, heat food, boil water, and drive away animals.
A fire is used for cooking, drying things, and for heating.

Figure 3. Bonfire “Shalash”

In prolonged bad weather, a fire tightly covered with a hut will protect the flame from wind and rain.
In this case, the firewood gradually dries out and ignites.
A fire, loosely built as a hut, is not bad for lighting. You can dry out quickly by such a fire.

Disadvantage: the “hut” burns out quickly and requires constant fuel supply.

Figure 4. Bonfire “Shalash”

Short, dry firewood is stacked obliquely towards the center, partially resting on each other.
With this design, the wood burns out mainly from above, and the flame turns out hot.
This type of fire is convenient if you need to boil water or cook something in one bucket or pan.

Figure 5. Bonfire “Well”

The “well” can be used for short-term lighting and heating (wood burns out quickly).
The well is convenient for laying thin twigs when making a fire, as well as firewood for drying.

Figure 6. Bonfire “Well”

Two logs are placed on the coals in parallel, at some distance from each other; across them - two more, etc.
This design is appearance, indeed, resembles a well log house.
It provides good air access to the fire, and the logs usually burn evenly along their entire length.
This fire is good even in wet weather.

(The teacher builds a fire “well”)

Figure 7. Bonfire “Starry”

“Star” is an economical type of fire that requires hard wood logs.
This fire is good for maintaining a fire for a long time without constantly adding branches.
If you have thick, long firewood, but you don’t need a fire that’s too hot, and you need to save wood and don’t have anything to cut it with, the “star fire” is ideal.
Such a fire is indispensable at night: you just need to move the logs towards the center from time to time.

Figure 8. Bonfire “Starry”

The logs are placed in radii from the center.
Combustion occurs predominantly in the center.
As the wood burns, it needs to be moved towards the middle.
This type of fire requires constant supervision or it will go out.

(The teacher builds a “star fire”)

Figure 9. Bonfire “Taiga”

The taiga fire is the most convenient for canopies.
A thick log lies along the canopy, 2-4 thinner logs are placed star-shaped with their ends on it, on the leeward side opposite the canopy.
As they burn, the logs are moved.
Such a fire is also suitable for spending the night without a canopy.

(The teacher makes a “taiga” fire)

Figure 10. Bonfire “Nodya”

“Nodya” of three logs is the most economical fire. Minimum effort and maximum output - burns for a long time, heats well, does not require constant addition of additional fuel.

A third log is placed on two thick logs. It is better to take the third log thicker than the two lower ones. The length of the logs is usually taken according to the length of the person, or longer (1.5-2.5 m).

In the simplest case, a fire of twigs is made on two thick logs, tightly laid one next to the other.

A node can also be made from two logs placed on top of each other. In this case, in order to prevent them from falling, it is necessary to drive a pair of stakes at both ends.

(The teacher builds the “Star” fire)

Independent work

– Open page 77 and sketch the types of fires in your notebook - we will need this at the end of the lesson.

2. Saving fire.

If there are no matches, the problem arises - how to keep the fire going. You can constantly burn a fire. Then you should have a person on duty at night.

If in emergency situation It turned out that there was a group of people, it was better to keep watch around the fire and, in addition to maintaining the fire, make sure that the sparks did not burn through the clothes of the sleeping people.

You can cover the coals from a burnt-out fire with a layer of ash or cover them with a large piece of bark, such as oak, pine or spruce. Then you can blow them up in the morning and put dry kindling on them. The fire is ready!!!

The Indians, for example, carried long-smoldering firebrands with them. During fishing they took with them logs that could smolder for 1-2 days.

But what if you have to move? Can be done portable fire storage – torch . To do this, you need to prepare bark, dry moss, and thin long splinters. Laying moss between the splinters, tightly wrap the resulting structure with bark. A torch up to 15 cm thick and 70 cm long will keep the fire for about 6 hours.

(The teacher collects the torch)

When moving through the taiga, you can carry smoldering cones and rotten things with you, for example, in canned food can, from time to time putting new pieces of dust, pieces of resin, new cones, moss there. This device will serve as an excellent means of repelling mosquitoes and midges.

(Teacher assembles portable fire storage)

Testing the assimilation of new material

Performance practical tasks for card groups (using the pictures on page 77):

– group No. 1 (2-3 students): build a “hut” fire from the prepared material;

– group No. 2 (2-3 students): build a fire “well” from the prepared material;

– group No. 3 (2-3 students): build a “star” fire from the prepared material;

– group No. 4 (2-3 students): build a “taiga” fire from the prepared material;

– group No. 5 (2-3 students): build a “nodya” fire from the prepared material;

– group No. 6 (2-3 students): collect the torch:

– group No. 7 (2-3 students): assemble a portable fire storage unit.

(The teacher evaluates the work of each group)

Answer the questions