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Fastening wood to concrete: the use of specialized adhesives, polyurethane foam

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Quite often, a fence or gazebo needs to be repaired only because the wooden posts buried in the ground have rotted. To prevent such a process, you need to place supports on anchors. Then the tree will not touch the ground and it will “live” longer.

If you have already decided to simply bury the posts in the ground, then you need to protect them from moisture and further destruction. So, having lowered the support into the hole, you should bury it not with freshly excavated soil, but with gravel.

Plus, the bottom of the wooden post needs to be wrapped with film, and the posts that will take on heavy loads, for example, holding a gate, should be completely concreted.

Such protective actions should be used for light wooden supports - pergolas or fences. Their poles can also be placed above the ground: on U-shaped anchors made of galvanized steel.

The rods of such anchors are poured into the pits with concrete. And wooden poles that are designed to hold a heavy load are installed on H-shaped ones (see photo 5). They are designed to hold posts up to 140 cm thick.

1. After installing a wooden post in the hole, it is best to fill it with gravel.

2. The bottom of the support is wrapped with film, and its upper edge is secured with perforated tape (tape with holes), into which nails are driven.

3. For the sake of beauty, special aesthetes can cover the protruding edges of the film with boards that are screwed to the post with screws.

4. Wooden posts that are intended to hold the gate can sometimes simply be concreted.

5. Anchors for fastening poles and racks. At the top left is a light anchor with a width of 71 mm, next to it is an anchor with an adjustable width up to 141 mm, to the right is a heavy anchor with a tubular rod and an anchor with two lintels 600 mm high, at the bottom left are two anchors attached to the base with bolts.

6. Ready-made concrete plinth blocks. For light posts, the height is 30, 40 and 50 cm. For heavy posts, a height of 60 and 80 cm is used.

10-11. The anchor is secured to the concrete slab with dowels and bolts. The wooden stand itself is placed in an anchor, fixed with a clamp,

8. This photo shows a heavy anchor that is designed to hold the stand pitched roof.

9. Bottom row - empty blocks for high load. The top one has already concreted anchors.

10-11. The anchor is secured to the concrete slab with dowels and bolts. The wooden stand itself is placed in an anchor, fixed with a clamp, holes for bolts and the wooden support is screwed.

Similar articles:

Installing a mesh fence

samipostroim.com

Methods of fastening wooden parts to concrete and brick, metal, aerated concrete and plasterboard

All photos from the article

During the construction process, there is often a need to attach wooden elements to structures made of brick, concrete, aerated concrete and metal. In order for the result of the work to be reliable and durable, you need to know the types of fasteners and the features of using one or another option.

Modern technologies have made it possible to develop many solutions that provide high strength and allow you to carry out installation yourself; this article will be devoted to this issue.

In the photo: fastening of wooden floor beams to an armored belt can be done different ways, but the use of perforated corners is one of the most popular options

What you should know about this type of work

Before you begin installation, you need to familiarize yourself with several important nuances, which will ensure the highest reliability:

Important! Sometimes you have to proceed from the existing situation when the walls are erected, but even in such cases you can achieve an excellent result of the work.

You should not skimp on fasteners for wooden structures and choose the most reliable ones.

Nowadays, beams in a wooden house are secured using special high-strength supports.

Overview of the main mounting options

The choice of one solution or another depends on the base to which the fastening will be carried out, the weight of the structures and their location. There are many methods, we will look at the most widespread and popular of them and will start from the material to which the wooden product will be attached.

Concrete and brick

It all depends on what elements need to be installed:

• Fastening a wooden beam to concrete wall carried out using quick installation dowels or special metal anchors. The work is quite simple and is carried out in the following way: in wooden block holes are drilled at a certain distance, the diameter of which must be equal to the size of the fastener; holes of a certain depth are also drilled in the wall; for reliability, the length of the element in the wall must be twice the thickness of the bar.

Dowels – convenient option, which is very simple to use: a plug is inserted into the wall and a nail is driven into it, which expands the shank and securely holds the element

• It is better to fasten wooden floor beams to the wall with support from a partition or wall, but in extreme cases, you can use special supports that are securely attached to concrete and transfer the load to the wall, which ensures high reliability designs. The most important thing in this case is the use of massive anchors, because they will hold the entire system.

Beam supports are used very widely and have proven themselves, like others metal fastenings for wood

• The easiest way to attach wooden posts to a concrete base is to use special anchor bases. A hole is drilled under them, and the elements are carefully driven in, after which you receive a ready-made connecting unit that securely fixes the element, preventing it from moving under the influence of loads during operation. For complex cases you can use a special adjustable support, which is equipped with a threaded unit.

Adjustable supports allow you to align the structure as accurately as possible; attaching a wooden stand to concrete with their help is a very simple and quick process

Important! As for the support units, they can be used on different types of bases, the only difference is the configuration of attachment to the surface, it can be a platform (for all types of materials) or a pin (for concrete and brick).

Metal

Fastening wood to metal has its own characteristics, let’s consider them in more detail:

• Often, when carrying out work with their own hands, developers choose a metal channel as a reinforcing element. This option is very attractive from the point of view of reliability and simplicity of the process; you need to lay channels and then insert them into wooden beam, for this, the configuration of the elements must match, so sometimes the ends of the elements must be cut off.

  It is very important that the beams adhere well to the channel shelf

• Special self-tapping screws for fastening wood to metal have a drill tip and thread so that they are securely held in the material. The head can be either a screwdriver or a wrench (most often 8); to carry out the work, purchase a special bit for a screwdriver in advance.

This is what a self-tapping screw looks like for attaching wooden elements to metal

Important! If thickness metal elements is large or they have increased hardness, it is recommended to first make holes using a drill, the diameter of which should be 2 mm smaller than the self-tapping screws used in the work.

Aerated concrete

This material has its own characteristics, so the following fasteners are used for it:

• Special nylon dowels, which can have different configurations, to use them you need to read the recommendations given in the instructions on the package; it will indicate which drill and how deep you need to make the hole and which screws to use for fixing. This is the simplest and quick option, and the photo below shows some configurations of products of this type.

Blocks require special fasteners

• For more massive structures It is recommended to use metal fasteners; they have teeth, which when tightening the self-tapping screw required diameter diverge and cut into aerated concrete, providing the highest reliability.

Metal fasteners are highly reliable

• If a wooden staircase is attached to an aerated concrete floor, then additional reinforcement may be necessary using a threaded rod, which goes through and ensures the highest reliability.

Drywall

Let us immediately note that heavy structures cannot be attached to this material, but small elements can be fixed very reliably using the following products:

• The “driva” dowel is a unit with or without a drill at the end; the first option is preferable, since there is no need to drill a hole.
• The butterfly dowel is inserted into the hole, with the help of a self-tapping screw it expands from the inside and holds the element. Its price is low, but it is very convenient to carry out the work.

Wood is attached to drywall quickly and easily

Conclusion

The video in this article will tell you Additional information on this topic. In general, it is worth noting that compliance simple recommendations and the use of high-quality fasteners are the main components of reliable connections.

rubankom.com

Fastening stair poles

Anyone who has ever installed a staircase knows perfectly well how much trouble the issue of attaching pillars to the floor can cause. Craftsmen involved in the installation of stairs come out of the situation in different ways. Someone makes a through hole inside the pole and passes a fastening pin through it, someone mounts the poles on homemade fasteners, and someone fits plumbing screws-studs designed for fastening toilets.

Today, the Zipbolt company offers new ideas that not only make the carpenter’s work easier, but also allow you to create things that please the eye, sometimes surprise, and sometimes delight, and most importantly, make it possible to earn more.

Zipbolt 14.100 - fasteners for wooden staircase posts

The screw - stud Zipbolt 14.100 has a gearbox in which, using a bevel gear, rotation from one plane is transmitted to another. In addition, thanks to a powerful hardened metal rod 280x14 mm and a reinforced gearbox, the staircase or fence post will be securely fastened! The benefits of using a Zipbolt 14.100 hairpin screw instead of homemade fasteners are obvious, just look at the picture.

To work, you will need a minimum set of tools: drill, drill bits, wrench and hex key! Screw - Zipbolt 14.100 hairpin allows you to significantly simplify the process of attaching staircase posts.

Fastening ladder posts with Zipbolt 14.100

To work, you will need a Zipbolt 14.100 carpentry screw, a drill, drill bits and keys: hex 6 mm and open-end 10 mm.

You'll be surprised how quickly and easily you can attach wooden staircase posts!

Now you can show your work to the customer and let him admire it!

zipbolt.ru

How to make a porch for a house

Most correct option porch - this is when its foundation is cast along with the house. In this case, there are practically no problems. Sometimes when planning a building it is forgotten. Then a porch is added to the house. An extension is made mainly from three materials: wood, metal and concrete. If the house is brick, they can build it out of brick. Another option is to make it from building blocks and then finish it. In any case, when planning to make a porch with your own hands, you must immediately decide what kind of foundation to make and whether or not to connect it with the base of the building.

How to calculate parameters

First you need to decide which way the steps will go. They can be on one, two or three sides. You determine this based on personal preferences and the finances that you can/want to allocate for construction. The height of the porch depends on the height of the plinth and should be 50-70 mm below the edge door leaf. This small step prevents precipitation from getting inside the house. Perhaps more importantly, it prevents the doors from becoming blocked if the porch rises up due to frost heaving (if the doors open outward).

Determining the dimensions of the upper platform

The layout of the porch begins with determining the size of the upper platform. If the doors open outward, you should be able to stand on the landing to open the doors. That is, its depth should be 30-40 cm greater than the width of the door leaf. According to GOST recommendations, the dimensions of the platform should be 1.5 times the width of the doorway. More is possible - less - undesirable - inconvenient.

Porch with small terrace

If your doors are 80 cm wide, then the depth of the upper platform at the very minimum is 120 cm. Its width is determined based on the tastes and proportions of the house, but it should definitely be greater than the width of the doorway.

We count the number and sizes of steps

You know the height of the porch: 50-60 mm below the door leaf. The recommended height of the step (riser) is 15-20 cm. Divide the height of the porch by the height of the steps, you get the approximate number of steps. The number rarely turns out to be a whole number. The remaining centimeters can be divided between all steps or one of them can be made higher. Another option is to create a small step at the bottom, although this may be awkward.

Optimal sizes steps

The optimal width of the step (tread) is 25-30 cm. Knowing the number of steps, the depth of the upper platform, the depth of the steps, you can calculate the full dimensions of the porch. Using them you can already develop the foundation for the porch.

When choosing the parameters of the steps, you must adhere to the recommendations of SNiP: the sum of the tread and double riser should be in the range of 600-640 mm. For example, you calculated that the height of the step (riser) is 17 cm, the tread (depth) is 280 mm. After performing the calculations we get: 170 mm * 2+280 mm = 620 mm. We fit into the recommended parameters, which means there is no need to change anything.

What kind of foundation is needed?

If the porch is planned to be light - wooden or metal - the foundation is most often made of piles or columns. Specifically chosen based on geological conditions. On well-draining soils with low levels groundwater A columnar foundation is sufficient; if there is a tendency to heave, a pile foundation is needed, perhaps TISE.

For a heavy porch - made of brick or monolithic concrete- do strip foundation or monolithic slab. The type of foundation is most often similar to the one on which the house is built.

Types of foundations for a porch

Next, you need to decide whether you will connect the porch foundation to the house foundation or not. Decisions are made based on the planned mass of the extension and the type of soil. Both options have disadvantages. If there is no connection, cracks often form at the junction of the porch and the house; due to frost heaving, the porch may become warped. Owners often face this problem. summer cottages- Mostly the porch to the dachas is made of wood and disjointed. After the ground thaws, it may “sit” in place on its own, or it may require some additional measures.

When installing connections, it is also possible for cracks to form, but not only at the joint, but also in the “body” of the extension. This happens if the reinforced connections installed cannot compensate for the uneven load, created by the house and an extension. Therefore, a connected foundation for the porch is made if it is attached to a heavy house and is itself heavy and massive, made of reinforced concrete. The second difficulty with this decision is to make the connection high-quality. To do this, use ribbed reinforcement with a diameter of 12-16 mm, for which holes are drilled in the foundation with a given diameter. Reinforcement is hammered into them and a frame for the porch is knitted on its basis.

Staircase designs

There are two main designs of stairs: on bowstrings and on stringers. They can be made of wood or metal. There are also combined options- metal + wooden steps or metal + concrete steps.

Staircase designs - on bowstrings and on stringers

On the bowstrings

Stairs on bowstrings are the simplest. For a porch - a good option, especially if the house is wooden or a small country house. TO inside support bars are attached to the bowstrings. If you are working with metal, the bars are welded horizontally (with a minimum slope of 1-2° to allow water to drain from the steps). In the case of wood, support bars can either be nailed to which the step will then be attached, or recesses can be cut into the string (no more than 1/2 the thickness of the board), into which the step boards are inserted.

On the stringers

A staircase on stringers can also be of a simple design - with open supports. In this case, triangles are cut at the required angle in the upper part of the board. Their lower part serves as a support for the steps.

Staircase on an open stringer

When cutting the stringer, set aside the height of the step and the width of the tread. They are connected at right angles. Using the applied markings, a template is made, with which all steps are marked.

The principle of cutting stringers

The number of stringers in a staircase depends on its width and the thickness of the boards used for the steps. The thinner the board for the steps, the more often you need to install stringers. If you use 25 mm boards, then there should be a distance of no more than 50-60 cm between the two supports. If you need a larger staircase width and don’t want to install three stringers, use thicker boards. It is important that they do not bend under your feet.

The procedure for assembling stairs on stringers

If you decide to weld a ladder on stringers from metal, you will need to be patient: you will have to weld many small sections, but the formation principle is the same.

Metal staircase on stringers

Methods of fastening parts

The lower edge of the porch stairs can sometimes rest directly on the ground. This option is simple, but unreliable. Firstly, the soil may settle and the stairs will begin to collapse. Secondly, upon contact with the ground, both wood and metal are destroyed faster. For wood there is special impregnations(Senezh and Senezh Ultra, for example), and the metal is well formed with a primer and painted in several layers. However, it is better to make a base - pour a shallow tape on which the bowstrings or stringers will rest.

How to Support a Porch Staircase

There are two ways to attach a porch ladder to a reinforced concrete base - to a beam - a beam with a cross-section of at least 75 * 75 mm or to an embedded beam of a smaller cross-section (pictured on the left).

Difficulties may also arise with the installation of porch posts. There are several ways. There is one very simple and effective one that works great even on heaving soils (clays and loams). Holes 50-60 cm deep are dug under the pillars. A bucket and a half of sand is poured into them at the bottom and compacted well. Half a bucket of crushed stone is poured on top of the sand and compacted too. They put up a pole, level it, put spacers that will hold it in a given position. The space between the wall of the hole and the pillar is gradually filled with crushed stone, tamping it thoroughly. The hole is filled flush with the ground, the top can be concreted (so that precipitation does not drain), but not spilled to the very bottom. Pillars installed in this way do not lead even with severe heaving. A significant part of the water goes into the sand, and the remaining forces of frost heaving are absorbed by the rubble, neutralizing them.

Methods for attaching pillars to a concrete base

If piles, a strip foundation or a monolithic slab are poured under the pillars of the porch, or a columnar base is laid, then studs or special glasses are walled into the concrete to secure the wooden posts. After the concrete has matured, the rack bars are attached to them with wood grouse or bolts.

If the racks are metal, a corner with a wall thickness of at least 3-4 mm is placed in the concrete so that it can be easily welded to it later.

When building a wooden porch with your own hands, questions may arise about attaching the railings and balusters. They can be assembled using ordinary nails, but if desired, you can use bolts or wood grouse. In this case, holes are pre-drilled, then fasteners are installed in them and tightened using an angle wrench. Such a connection is certainly more reliable than simply using nails.

How to attach railings or balusters

If the porch is attached to a freshly cut wooden house, in which the shrinkage has not yet been completed, and the design of the porch provides for the presence of a canopy, the racks must be attached to special adjustable plates.

Installation of porch posts with the ability to compensate for shrinkage wooden house

All racks supporting the canopy over the porch of a wooden house are placed on special adjustable elevators

Please note that both the metal and wood that you will use to build the porch require careful processing. The porch is exposed to all climatic influences and the materials require good protection.

Monolithic concrete stairs

The most durable stairs are made of monolithic concrete. They take longer to manufacture than metal or wood ones, but their service life is calculated in decades. The types of concrete stairs are described in detail in the video. The basics of calculation are also given.

How to make it yourself concrete stairs on stringers, see the next video.

Wooden porch

A wooden porch is one of the most common options in our country. Wood is plastic, easy to process, costs relatively little (in our country), and forgives many mistakes. That is why it is a favorite building material.

It also has disadvantages: it requires good protection before construction begins (antibacterial impregnations and fire retardants), as well as regular care- security updates paint coating. Then it looks attractive for a long time, otherwise it quickly loses its decorative effect.

One of the options for building a wooden porch with a ladder on bowstrings can be seen in the video. Please note that the porch is being built on sandy soil, so the method used to install the pillars is not suitable for everyone. Everything else is clear.

Brick porch

Since brick is a dense and heavy material, a brick porch requires a serious foundation. Usually this is a monolithic slab, with double reinforcement and it is better if it is larger in size than the planned porch.

When calculating the parameters of the steps, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the brick and the thickness of the seam between them. Then the laying work will be easier - no need to cut the brick. If you are not going to cover the porch, use for the outer rows quality material. The inner rows - backfilling - can be made from scrap or building blocks and their remains.

Brick porch with wooden steps

If the house is on a high base, making a monolithic brick porch is too expensive. Then the columns or walls are folded, leaving empty space inside. It can then be used for household purposes or covered with decorative panels. If an upper platform is needed, these columns/walls overlap from above concrete slab- homemade or ready-made - it’s your choice. Then a staircase is attached to the resulting base. It doesn't have to be brick. It can be metal, concrete or a combination.

Photo report: wooden porch on a metal frame

A theory is just a theory, and in construction too. You always understand the essence of the matter better if you observe the process yourself, because you can see how others do it and learn something for yourself.

At the request of the parents, an exact copy of the old porch was made. The only difference is that the new one has a welded metal frame.

This is an old porch

In place of the demolished porch, a pit with a depth of 25 cm was dug. Sand was poured and compacted into layers at the bottom, crushed stone was placed on it - 10 cm each. A metal mesh with a mesh of 10 cm was laid on top and the whole thing was filled with concrete.

Porch slab

Welded according to the previous dimensions of the porch metal carcass(from a corner 70*5 mm). The sidewalls are set vertically and secured with studs. Next, the base for the benches is welded to them. All metal is treated with a rust converter, primed and painted twice.

We weld, prime and paint the base for the benches

The wood used for construction was dry. Planed boards were cut to size (the width of the porch) and treated with impregnation for direct contact with the ground.

Wood dries after impregnation

We lay the dried boards on the frame. You have to drill a hole for each fastener - you can’t just take a corner.

The boarding of the porch has begun

At this stage, two mistakes were made at once. The first is that the sheathing did not start from the sides. They immediately began laying the steps. As a result, water constantly flows into the joints of the side paneling and steps and warps the wood. It is necessary to start the cladding from the sides, and make the steps a little longer so that they protrude beyond the side cladding by at least a couple of centimeters. The second mistake is that the boards on the porch are laid close to each other. At high humidity they swell and the surface becomes uneven. When laying porch sheathing, make gaps of at least 5-8 mm.

Sheathing process

After all the boards are secured, they are sanded. First tape grinder with coarse grain, then disk with fine grain. The process is long. At the same time, the task is being solved - to remove green color impregnation. It is not covered even by three layers of tint.

Sanding the surface of the boards for an acceptable smoothness

After sanding, we begin painting. We apply it three times. Each layer after the previous one has completely dried. The resulting color is dark mahogany.

Wooden parts are covered protective composition

That's already three layers of paint

While the paint dries completely, we begin making the benches. We cut boards for them, grind down an oblique chamfer (for beauty), and cover them with impregnation.

Boards for benches

We make backrests with small decor- rounded edges.

We mark beauty according to the template

We saw along the marked lines with a jigsaw, then sanded to a smooth edge.

This is how the bench on the porch turned out

The sides are covered with plywood, which was painted the same color. The porch is ready.

Ready wooden porch do it yourself - side view

DIY brick and concrete porch: photo

The walls of the staircase landing were pre-built from brick, on top of which a monolithic concrete slab was poured. Along the edge, a frame of corners is embedded into it so that the stairs and railings can be welded.

Porch plan: how everything should look

Finished brick base with concrete slab

From a corner 70*70*5 mm we cut blanks of the required length. After which we treat them with a rust converter. We start cooking after the reaction has stopped and the metal has dried.

Cut the metal to the required length

Treated with rust converter

We welded the first metal string.

First string welded

The finished sidewall was attached to the concrete base with two pins.

Attaching to a concrete support support

We cook the second string in the same way and secure it. When working, make sure that the two bowstrings are in the same plane.

Two bowstrings and a level, the feast of which controlled the plane

We begin to weld the support bars. Here it is important to constantly monitor the horizontality so that the steps are not oblique.

The first frame under top step ready

We weld all the supporting pieces onto the bowstrings

We weld transverse pieces of the corner to the support bars to form a shelf.

The cross members are almost welded

The corners are welded so that they form a frame. We put a piece of slate sheet in it. We lay out a reinforcing metal mesh on the slate. We weld the edges of the mesh to the frame.

Steps ready for pouring concrete

We pour concrete into the prepared steps. We make it high-quality so that the steps do not wear out longer.

The steps are filled with concrete

While the concrete gains strength, we begin to work on the posts that will support the canopy over the porch. For them we take a profiled pipe 70*40*3 mm. We cut four columns from it. Two are slightly longer - they will be near the wall of the house, two are 15 cm shorter - they stand on the outer edge of the porch, creating the desired slope - so that the water and snow melt off normally. For railings and crossbars we use profiled pipe 40*40 mm.

Canopy and Porch Railing Parts

All metal is also treated with a rust converter.

First we set up the racks, grab them, install temporary stops

To avoid lateral stresses, it is important to position the racks strictly vertically. We set them up, grab them, use short seams in several places, and check again whether they are positioned correctly. We weld the temporary stops and only after the next check we weld them according to all the rules.

Clamps make work easier

Once all the posts are aligned and welded, you can assemble the railings. On required height they are fixed strictly horizontally.

Railings are welded horizontally

This is what it looks like from the outside

Then we proceed to install the roof. We also cook it from a 40*40 mm profile pipe. First, strapping around the perimeter - at the level of the shorter posts, then - the rest of the structure. It's not complicated, but it takes a lot of time - a lot of intersections.

Rafter system canopy over the porch

Then it was time to do the railings and decorations. And again, there are no difficulties, it can be done easily if desired.

We improve the railings

That's it, the porch is ready for finishing works. On the steps and landing purchased rough tiles for outdoor use. The sidewall was also trimmed with it monolithic slab.

The tiles for the steps were red-brown to match the color of the brick

The metal was painted with paint that matched the tone, and the corrugated sheeting left over from the installation of the roof was used on the roof. The DIY porch turned out pretty good.

Photo ideas for porch design

One of the options for a concrete porch with wooden railings

View from the other side

Easy porch to country house on metal poles

Porch to wooden bath or dacha - a staircase made of logs

Porch covered with WPC - wood-polymer composite

Metal porch with polycarbonate canopy

Round brick porch

Porch made of logs to a log house

Porch-terrace with polycarbonate canopy

Wooden beam - practical construction material. Low price, low heat loss, light weight and ease of installation of a house made of timber make this material very popular. However, securing the beam to the foundation is not so easy, because wood cannot be glued to concrete or welded to metal. In this article we will talk about how timber is attached to various foundations what they pay attention to and what mistakes they make.

Types of foundations for a timber house

Waterproofing

The bottom beam, as well as the wooden grillage, must be properly protected from water and dampness, but it is not always possible to use creosote or other equally effective (and most often unpleasant-smelling) substances. If it is not possible to treat the grillage or lower beam with heavy fractions of oils, then it is necessary to use less effective substances, and between the foundation or iron/concrete grillage and beams you need to lay at least 2 layers of roofing material. This is material that falls out due to temperature changes. After all, in the morning the air temperature rises, but the temperature of the foundation or grillage remains unchanged. If you use a wooden grillage, then waterproofing must be laid both under and above it. This will protect the wall from dampness and prevent mold and rot.

Which mounting method is better?

When choosing a mounting method, consider the following factors:

• timber moisture;
• climatic conditions;
• seismic activity;
• the strength of the most frequent winds.

To attach damp (over 16%) timber to a wooden grillage, you must use only shrinkage compensators. All other fastening methods are ineffective.

After all, the beam is high and especially natural humidity, gives very strong shrinkage, so ordinary anchor bolts will not be able to provide high-quality fixation. To fasten timber with high or natural humidity to a wooden grillage, it is necessary to use an analogue of a shrinkage compensator, only made not from a screw, but from an anchor bolt. The same method can be used when installing timber on threaded rods. Instead of a nut and washer, you need to use a nut, two washers and a spring. The same fastening method should be used in those regions where there are heavy and long rains in spring and autumn.

In regions with high seismic activity, it is necessary to use a bottom beam with a moisture content of no higher than 12%, treat it with the most effective waterproofing and install it on the most rigid fastening (regular and anchor bolts). This will ensure sufficient strength of the entire structure. The same approach must be applied in those regions where wind speeds often exceed 20 meters per second. Neglecting rigid anchorage in seismically active or windy regions will result in the anchorage being exposed to external factors will become loose and the house will begin to rock. Neglect of shrinkage compensators when working with natural and high humidity, as well as in regions with frequent and heavy seasonal rains, will lead to the appearance of gaps between the flashing crown and the foundation or grillage.

All photos from the article

In the process of performing various construction work Sometimes it becomes necessary to attach a wooden pole to concrete. As a rule, this operation raises many questions among novice masters. In this article we will look at how to attach wooden poles to a concrete base in several ways.

General information

The need to install wooden poles on concrete can arise in a variety of situations, for example, when installing fences, building gazebos and others. wooden structures on a strip foundation.

At first glance, it may seem that installing a wooden pole on concrete is very difficult, but in reality, professionals have some tricks that allow them to cope with this operation without any difficulties. Below you can see for yourself.

Installing a wooden post on concrete

First of all, it should be said that installing pillars on concrete often means different operations:

Below we will take a closer look at each of them.

Pillar concreting

Many novice home craftsmen doubt whether it is possible to concrete wooden poles, since wood in concrete can quickly rot. In fact, if you follow a certain technology, then wooden support can stand for quite a long time.

Instructions for performing this operation look like this:

• The first step is to make a hole to the depth of soil freezing. In different areas, this depth may be different, but on average in our country it is 1.2 m. If you make the hole shallower, then there is a possibility of the pillar being pushed out as a result of soil heaving.
  The easiest way to dig a hole is with a garden auger, but if you don’t have one, you can use a regular shovel.
• Next, you need to fill the bottom of the hole with crushed stone or gravel and compact it well. The layer thickness should be about 15 cm.

• Before concreting a wooden post, it is necessary to treat the wood with a protective compound.. Currently, specialized stores sell special impregnations that protect wood from moisture penetration, exposure to microorganisms and other negative factors.
• After processing, the post must be installed in the hole and secured with spacers. In this case, its position should be checked building level to prevent deviation from the horizontal.
• Next, the space in the hole is filled with concrete..
• Protruding concrete must be smoothed down to a slope away from the post so that water does not accumulate near the wood.
• Then the concrete must be covered with damp burlap. It must be moistened periodically throughout the week. This procedure prevent cracking of concrete during the drying process.

Question. Hello! A neighbor at his dacha put wooden fence and filled round wooden pillars with concrete. Tell me, is it possible to fill wooden pillars with concrete?

Answer. Good afternoon Fence posts they are filled with concrete so that they do not sag due to time and the load of the fence fabric. Therefore, wooden poles are not just “possible”, but “necessary” to be filled concrete mixture. The only question is how to prepare such pillars for contact with concrete. Below we present the technology for installing wooden fence posts “on concrete”.

The best types of wood for posts are oak or larch. Oak and larch, even in their untreated form, are highly resistant to decay. However, for reliability, the part of the column located in concrete should be treated with two layers of BT 577 bitumen varnish or two layers of MBI bitumen mastic.

The length of the part of the column buried in the hole is taken to be approximately 30% of its total length. In this case, the surface should be covered with mastic or varnish in the format of 30% of the total length plus 5-8 centimeters to ensure reliable protection from splashes of rain and snow.

If the groundwater level is high, the column is buried below the freezing depth of the soil in the area, and drainage is poured into the bottom of the hole - fine crushed stone in a layer of 20 cm.

It is best to drill with a hand-held garden drill with an attachment with a diameter of 200-250 mm. A garden drill can be purchased in a store or online store of gardening supplies. The need for this tool in a private home arises constantly, so it should be in the arsenal of every private household.

So, the wooden posts and holes in the ground are prepared, you can either buy ready-made concrete or proceed to preparing it yourself concrete mortar. Will be required following materials and tools:

• Portland cement CEM I 32.5N PC (old marking M400);
• sand;
• small crushed stone or construction waste (broken bricks, broken tiles, etc.);
• halves of red brick (battle);
• water;
• building level;
• putty knife;
• bucket;
• shovel;
• steel trough or sheet of iron;
• a piece of reinforcement with a diameter of 12-20 mm, a length of 1.5 meters (rammer).

In a trough or on a sheet of iron, the concrete components are mixed in the following proportions: 3 buckets of crushed stone, 3 buckets of sand, 1 bucket of Portland cement and approximately 0.5 buckets of water. Everything is thoroughly mixed to a homogeneous creamy mass. If necessary, you can add more water.

The post is placed in the hole, leveled vertically and secured with brick halves hammered between the post and the ground. Next, the volume of the hole between the post and the ground is filled with concrete and “bayoneted” with a piece of reinforcement.

Important point! The column is poured 3-5 centimeters above the ground level. The part of the fill protruding above the ground is smoothed with a spatula “from the pillar to the soil surface”, ironed and covered with polyethylene for 2-3 days.

Wooden logs are required to ensure natural ventilation underground space And better preservation heat in the rooms. Thanks to the use of lag flooring can last much longer. However, among people who do not have much experience in the construction business, you can often hear the question of whether it is necessary to attach the logs to concrete floor? Experienced craftsmen know that for a truly durable flooring that does not change its geometry under load, and for its long service life, it is imperative to correctly fix the logs on any supporting structure, including on a concrete screed.

Now that it is clear whether it is necessary to attach the joists to the concrete floor, it is worth noting that this task is not difficult, does not require special skills and knowledge, and, therefore, can be done by any home craftsman.

• Materials and tools
  • Fasteners
  • Tips for choosing lags
  • Tools
• Methods for installing joists on a concrete floor
  • Fastening the log to a metal corner
  • Attaching joists to concrete pillars
• Step-by-step instructions for attaching joists to concrete with your own hands
• Step between joists

Materials and tools

Fasteners

The question of how to secure joists to a concrete floor has different answers: simple or adjustable structures can be used for this. The latter use special screws, by tightening which the logs can be leveled. In addition, the choice fastening elements and fastening methods depend on what kind of logs are used.

Most often, the lags are fastened to the concrete floor with metal anchors or self-tapping screws with polypropylene dowels, the dimensions of which are selected depending on the cross-section of the selected beam for the lags.

The choice between anchor nails or self-tapping screws is determined by the following:

• Self-tapping screws are cheaper, of course, but anchors are more reliable. In practice, fastening with self-tapping screws is almost always sufficient.
• The advantage of anchors is that in addition to fixing the beams, they tightly press the logs to the base. This becomes especially important when the finish is quite heavy and is regularly exposed to mechanical stress- this must be taken into account when choosing a method for how to properly attach logs to a concrete floor.

With modern technologies, logs under a wooden floor could not be secured at all, however, such a solution would greatly increase the likelihood of the floor covering being skewed or the logs moving from their original location. Therefore, when it comes to fastening lags, it is best to rely on old methods that have been time-tested more than once.

However, fastening may not help if low-quality or unsuitable lumber or incorrect fasteners are chosen for the work.

When choosing logs for a concrete floor, you need to pay attention to the following points:

• type of wood;
• type of lumber;
• length and section;
• price.

For reasons of economic feasibility, you should not take expensive wood, because spruce, fir or pine, if properly processed, can last no less. Doesn't really matter and appearance material, however, it is necessary to discard specimens eaten by grinders or blackened by mold. Evenness of tone and correct geometry of the lag are of less importance. For this work, grades B and BC with a humidity not exceeding 20% ​​are suitable. As is customary to work with lumber, they should be stored in a dry room for some time so that they equalize the humidity with the surrounding atmosphere.

All wooden elements Before attaching the joists to the concrete floor, you need to thoroughly soak it with an antiseptic.

Tools

Since the task is how to lay logs on a concrete floor, you will have to use the following tools in your work:

• Drill and hammer drill.
• Carpentry tools: a circular saw, hacksaw, plane.

In addition, you will have to spend money on waterproofing, which must be spread over the entire surface of the concrete. When calculating the amount of material, you need to add another 10-15 cm overlap to the floor area.

Methods for installing joists on a concrete floor

Methods for attaching joists to a concrete floor come down to four main options, after familiarizing yourself with which, any master can choose the most suitable one for himself.

This the simplest way fastening the lag, but, unfortunately, it is not suitable in every situation.

1. First, you need to drill holes in the timber to match the diameter of the plastic dowel, and use a hammer drill to make a counter hole in the concrete.
2. Then the dowels are driven in with a hammer, after which self-tapping screws are screwed into them or dowel-nails are driven deep into the ceiling.
3. The head of the screw should sink a few centimeters into the hole.

People often ask, what step of attaching the joists to the concrete floor is better? There is no strict standard here - the step can vary from 40 cm to 80 cm, but on average you can safely focus on half a meter.

The logs will hold securely enough only when there is a small gap between the base and the beam. This should definitely be taken into account by those who want to know how to properly lay joists on a concrete floor.

Anchors, unlike self-tapping screws, not only rigidly fix the logs, but also attract them to the concrete surface. Thanks to this installation wooden beams will hold more securely, which is why most craftsmen prefer to use anchors. In addition, this powerful fastener will restrain the deformation of the wood to a certain extent, especially if it has not been sufficiently dried beforehand. But it is much more difficult to pull an anchor out of a concrete base than to drive it in, so workers will have to spend a lot of effort during dismantling.

Be that as it may, when using anchors, the floor covering will not swell, but it may sag. To avoid the latter, it is necessary to install gaskets more often.

1. Installation of logs on a concrete floor here begins with drilling through holes in the beam.
2. Then, opposite each of them, counter holes are made in the concrete.
3. After this, the anchor bolt is inserted into both holes and tightened with a spanner or open-end wrench. It is important not to overtighten the bolt, otherwise it will bend the beam, especially when there is a gap in this place. Then and on finishing field there will be a depression here.

Before installing the anchor, you need to drill a larger diameter hole in the beam to accommodate the bolt head.

The anchors should be spaced at intervals of 60-100 cm, and their length should be sufficient for them to penetrate approximately 6 cm into the concrete. Most often, anchors with a diameter of 10 mm are used. Typically one joist is held in place by 4-5 anchors.

Video about attaching joists to a concrete floor with anchors:

Fastening the log to a metal corner

It becomes inconvenient to work with logs 10 or more centimeters high. To fasten them, it is better to use steel corners, which will touch the joist with one shelf and the concrete base with the other. In this case, fixation is carried out: to the concrete - with dowel-nails, and to the timber - with self-tapping screws. In this case, the main load should fall on the gaskets, and not on the fastening elements, because the corners should only fix the position of the beam.

In order for the lag to be better bonded to the surface, you need to use self-tapping screws whose threads do not reach the head.

You can also attach wooden elements to a concrete base using a galvanized steel corner. The installation process is as follows:

1. Attach the corner to the joist using self-tapping screws, which should go at least 30 mm into the wood.
2. Attach the corner to the concrete base using dowels.

Video on how to secure joists to a concrete floor with corners:

There is another option for attaching joists to a concrete floor. For this, a rectangular stand is used, which is attached to the base with four dowels. In the middle of this stand there is a pin that pierces the beam through and through.

By rotating the nut located under the beam, you can accurately set its height, and use the upper nut to fix the element in the required position.

This system is not that difficult to install; it is attached to the floor with dowels, and you will need to make a hole in the joist for a pin. The frequency of installation of stands under it depends on the cross-section of the log; however, in any case, it is not recommended to make an interval of more than 1 meter. Similar option fastening the log to a concrete base, although recognized as optimal, however, due to its high cost, has not become very popular.

After fixing the logs, a subfloor made of boards, OSB or similar materials is laid on them. If the work is done efficiently, the appearance of the finished floor can be impeccable.

Attaching joists to concrete pillars

Logs are attached to concrete pillars in the same way. The same fasteners are used here, but intended for poles.

1. The pillars need to be waterproofed in advance by coating them with simple bitumen or bitumen mastic. The upper cut of the pillars can be waterproofed by placing pieces of roofing material pre-cut according to its configuration on it.
2. Also, in advance, you need to make holes in the bases of the pillars and in the timber into which to drive a dowel or anchor spacer.
3. The beam is attached to the post with a self-tapping screw, the length of which is 2-3 times the width of the spacer.
4. The timber can also be attached with special metal plates equipped with screws. For this purpose, they are screwed to the base of the posts with dowel nails, and a through hole is drilled in the joist, into which you will then need to insert a screw and screw the joist to the top of the posts. Thanks to this, the lag will hold tighter.

Step-by-step instructions for attaching joists to concrete with your own hands

Attach to concrete floor wooden joists It's not difficult even on your own. There are several mounting options, and below are the steps of one of the standard methods.

1. Lay waterproofing (roofing felt or simple PVC film) on the concrete base. The joints between the pieces must be secured with special tape.

1. Next, you need to lay out the logs along the floor in a certain step. This step will depend on the material from which it will be made. finishing flooring: when using a 25x100 mm tongue and groove board, the logs can be laid with an indent of 70-80 cm, but for other materials the step will need to be reduced to 40 cm.
2. If the length of the material is not enough to cover the entire room, then the elements can be joined using iron corner or by making cuts that form a connection into a root tenon.
3. Before installing the joists on the concrete floor, you need to take care of the outermost joists that will be located near the walls. They must be laid level, clearly leveling their height by placing wooden planks or pieces of plywood under the beams. It is most convenient to use a laser level. When the outermost logs are fixed, a nylon thread is stretched between them, which will serve as a guide when installing the remaining logs.
4. To attach timber to a concrete floor, you need to make holes in both. You need to drive a dowel or steel anchor spacer into the hole in the concrete. Each joist must be fixed with at least four anchors, and the screws must be placed 40-60 cm from each other.

1. You need to prepare levelers for the joists in advance - cut chipboard or plywood into even strips. With the help of these elements, the joist structure is fixed in a level position (pieces of plywood are simply placed under the joists if you need to raise them) so that the finishing coating on it does not creak or move.

1. If in concrete base If, on the contrary, there are bulges, then you will have to level the lag not by placing plywood under it, but by selecting part of the material from below using a plane.
2. When all the logs are installed in their places, thermal insulation should be laid between them, for example, expanded clay.

1. Before covering with the topcoat, you should think about laying the necessary communications. It is also advisable to use a vapor barrier layer.

Step between joists

How to properly lay joists on a concrete floor, if for finishing coating will be used different materials? Below is the relationship between the thickness of the floor boards and the distance between the joists:

• with a board thickness of 20 mm, there should be a distance of 20 cm between the logs;
• for boards 25 mm thick, a step of 50 cm will be required;
• for 25 mm – 60 cm;
• for 40 mm – 70 cm;
• for 45 mm – 80 cm;
• for 50 mm – 100 cm.

If the floor is plywood, then the step between the joists is determined differently:

• with a plywood thickness of 15-18 mm, a lag pitch of 40 cm is required;
• at 22 mm – 60 cm.

Which method do you prefer to attach joists to a concrete floor, and why? Share your opinion or experience in the comments.