Tool for caulking a log house. Caulking a log house: methods - traditional and modern, work technology, subtleties

Caulk with moss

In caulking with moss, the main thing is no longer compliance with technological subtleties - in this respect it is much simpler than caulking with fibrous materials - but the preparation of material. More precisely, procurement. Forest and swamp building moss goes on sale, but self-harvesting of tree moss is possible only in certain places very remote from civilization, and self-harvesting of bog moss in most developed countries is prohibited and punishable by law: in recent decades, the extremely important role of swamps as moisture accumulators and regulators has been revealed natural processes. In addition, mosses actively accumulate many useful and harmful microelements; swamp moss is a natural filter of radionuclides. By caulking with moss collected yourself, you risk not only infecting the frame with rot, mold and pests, but also yourself and your loved ones, which is no better.

The best moss for caulking is bog sphagnum, or cuckoo flax, pos. 1 in Fig: it never wakes up in buildings and releases substances that protect wood from damage. But it is impossible to caulk with bright green fresh sphagnum (item 2) - on the contrary, it will overheat and ruin the frame. You need to caulk with moss (both swamp and forest), dried until it withers without rotting, pos. 3. This moss is sold in bags (item 4). It must be stored in them until use, not allowing it to dry out completely: moss that is still slightly alive is suitable for caulking. Dried gray or brown building moss (item 5) is not caulk, but an insulating material. By the way, very good.

Note: It is impossible to caulk with rock and ground moss - particles of the substrate with germs of wood pests will certainly remain in it.

Procedure for caulking with moss

They caulk with moss before winter. In the spring, when it gets warm but not dry yet, the hanging festoons are checked (see below) and the green ones are plucked out. Then the scallops are tapped into the grooves. It is very important to prevent the caulk from drying out: if the moss begins to crumble under the caulking tool, the entire caulk will never be intact, and every 2-5 years you will have to re-caulk, and the entire log house will not stand as long as it can. A year later, the building is checked and, if it is split, a secondary caulk is carried out with the same (!) moss.

Sphagnum moss is laid out in the grooves when assembling the log house as a mountain (item 1 in the figure below), because It cakes heavily under pressure. The festoons of bog moss should hang abundantly from the grooves, pos. 2. Immediately after assembling the frame, moss is added to the remaining cracks (shown by arrows in position 2), tamping the top with oblique wooden caulk. Quite easily reviving tree moss, on the contrary, is laid out sparingly but tightly so that there are no empty cracks, pos. 3. Its festoons should protrude from the grooves of the assembled frame by approx. half the palm of your hand, but not hanging down, pos. 4. Hanging ones (shown by an arrow in position 4) are cut off.

Instead of moss

In coastal areas you can find durable log buildings, caulked instead of moss with damask - sea grass eelgrass or eelgrass thrown ashore by storms. Damask is also a good insulator and as such is now sold dried, but caulking can only be done with damp, fresh damask. But caulking with damask turns out to be excellent: it releases salts into the tree, making it unsuitable for pests, and releases iodine into the air in the room. Which, as is known, among other beneficial properties, helps remove cumulative poisons and radionuclides from the body. They caulk with damask like moss, with some differences: they take it apart into flat strands and lay them out in the grooves of the log house in a herringbone pattern without gaps so that the ends hang down half a log. Upon completion of the assembly of the log house, the ends are tapped into the grooves with wooden caulk.

Synthetics and sealants

Synthetic caulking is used in combination with rough jute tape, or, for “aesthetics,” with twisted white jute rope. The rough tape is placed in the grooves of the log house under caulking with sealants without wings, flush with the edges of the groove. If the logs have a Finnish groove, then the edges of the tape should lie exactly on the longitudinal cuts in the log under the edge protrusions of the groove of the upper log.

Sealants for wood are chemically neutral polyurethane: silicone is less compatible with wood in terms of mechanical and physico-chemical properties (in particular, in terms of the thermal expansion coefficient TCR), and is destroyed under the influence of even very weak acids. In turn, the silicone solvent - acetic acid - spoils the wood, so do not try to replace special sealants for wood with ordinary construction ones. Synthetics are used to caulk mainly log houses made of laminated logs and timber - their estimated service life is the same as that of glue joints of laminated lumber.

Caulking with sealants is done quickly and simply: the initial composition is squeezed out of the tube into the groove, pos. 1 in Fig.. When it has set, the seams are puttied on top with a finishing compound to match the wood, pos. 2.:

There is also an “ultra-modern” method of caulking log houses built without rough caulking at all: cuts are made along the seams, strands of self-expanding polyethylene foam are inserted into them and sealed with wood-like sealant, pos. 3. In essence, this is no longer caulking, because This method is suitable for buildings made of lumber without shaped grooves, assembled on dowels and impregnated with water repellents (water-repellent impregnations). In addition, it is only suitable for selected chamber-drying materials that are completely dried and settled. And then what will happen with warping from moisture during operation - we’ll wait and see: in practice, “caulk-free caulking” has so far been used for no more than 10-12 years.

Let's return to caulking, which is still caulking, albeit synthetic. Finishing compounds darken when dry, so they are selected to match the wood using test strokes on the container. But in the light, the finishing synthetic caulking fades and the walls of the log house take on the appearance shown in pos. 4. Some people, since such “decoration” cannot be avoided, order caulking seams to be glued or filled with white twisted cord. How much this adds “aesthetics and respect” to the building is a matter of taste of the owner. And there is no arguing about tastes. Moreover, about the tastes of people who believe that natural wood needs additional “refinement”.

It is much more practical to use synthetic caulk to seal gaping cracks in logs, pos. 5 in Fig. On top of the sealant, the cracks are filled with any wood putty for exterior use, and the entire structure is rejuvenated. The putty has to be renewed every 2-3 years - it also fades in the light - but this doesn’t last long, it’s not difficult and inexpensive.

The final touch - sanding

Caulking has not yet completed the construction of the log house until it is ready for flooring, installation of the attic floor, roof, installation of windows, doors, partitions, for finishing and equipment - it is desirable to sand the log house, but it is necessary to sand the inside. Especially - chopped from wild logs, debarked by hand.

Sanding a frame with sandpaper is extremely time-consuming, tedious, and this damages the outer most resistant layers of the wood. The frame is sanded using a hand-held universal grinder with nylon brushes. Worse - grinder with them; drive is too powerful. But the main thing here is still brushes for sanding wood, see video review:

Video: review of nylon brushes for sanding logs

Sanding a log frame with a brush is actually a controversial issue: the brush removes the bead of caulk, see figure..

To caulk a log house you will need special tools

Caulking a log house will require time, diligence, the right material and a good tool.

Such work is quite labor-intensive and manual. There are no mechanical devices that would speed up the caulking process and make the work easier. Only with your own hands and nothing else.

It’s not for nothing that in wooden construction there is such a specialization as “caulkers.” A team of several strong men only performs caulking!

Since they perform only this kind of work, they have achieved the highest qualifications in this specialization. If you manage to find such a team, then be sure to use their services, because the caulking will be done quickly and, most importantly, with HIGH QUALITY.

Naturally, the caulking team has a complete set of tools for caulking log cabins for all occasions, depending on:

• material used for sealing log seams
• seam sizes
• type of log wood
• the presence of complex elements (corners, junctions) in the configuration of a wooden building

Tool for caulking logs in a log house

The following tool for caulking logs is necessary with the correct technology for performing the work:

1. the caulk itself. These are different types of blades (wooden or metal), which should have a smooth blade so that when pulling it out of the seam, it does not pull the insulation along with it. And the pointed end of the spatula (blade) should be thin enough to drive the insulation into a thin gap, but not sharp so as not to cut the insulation during the driving process.
2. a hammer (mallet, mallet) for hitting the caulk, hammering the insulation into the cracks.

Wooden caulk

Wooden caulk for hardwood

Wooden caulk, such as a spatula, is usually made by caulking a log house with your own hands.

What's so complicated about caulking a log house?! I took it, tapped a wooden spatula and slowly pounded it with a hammer, compacting the tow in the seam...

Some people manage to insulate the seams of a log house with an ax, simply poking the oakum inside...

It's not that simple. Yes, in early times, when caulking, homemade spatulas of various widths and sharpness were always used. But even before, this work was entrusted to a person who KNEW how to caulk the seams of a log house with high quality and who was considered an expert in this matter.

Wooden caulk should be:

• made of hardwood. What is the point of it if after a couple of meters its blade becomes terry with burrs
• with a polished surface so that the insulation does not cling
• with a metal handle, if a metal hammer will be used as a driving tool
• width 100mm, other options are possible, depending on the technology

The task of the caulk is to tightly fill the inter-crown seams with insulation. And, if the log house is not of the highest quality, then its seams are wide enough to easily caulk them with a wooden caulking shovel.

If the seams between the logs are very thin, for example in a log house made of galvanized logs, then metal caulking will be required.

Caulking chisel

Chisel-caulker with protector STAYER 2125

It’s easier to say that a caulking chisel is the same shovel, only metal. Nowadays, such a tool for caulking a log house can be bought in a store. That is, you don’t literally take a chisel and start hammering the insulation into the seams with it...

Although you can try, the chisel is too thick, and the blade should have a thickness of no more than 5mm. And the chisel is too narrow for such work: it will take a long time to chisel. To speed up work, the width of the blade should be 80-100mm. It is with this caulk that the main volume of the log house is made: 100mm wide, 5mm thick. It is also called type-setting caulk.

On sale, metal caulking chisels can be purchased in various widths and blade thicknesses for caulking:

• straight seams with large footage
• middle grooves
• narrow gaps

It is also worth purchasing a curved caulking tool designed for corners and rounded areas. Without it, it will be difficult to tightly (high-quality) insulate the joints of the logs into the bowl.

You can view this tool for caulking log houses (chisel-caulk) on the website “All instruments.ru”:

• reasonable prices
• large selection of markings (with protection, rubber protector, etc.)
• wide range of purposes and applications (narrow, wide, curved)

Caulking with a hammer drill

We can immediately say that caulking with a hammer drill is not a good idea to speed up work at the expense of quality:

• can damage the wood of the logs

The load is shock and uncontrollable. If, with manual caulking, a professional hits the caulk only once the width of the blade in order to place the insulation at a certain and constant (due to an individual blow) depth, then with mechanical caulking with a preforator, the blows are frequent and the worker cannot evaluate them accurately: in what - In that place it took several blows, in another place I went through it with a punch faster than in the previous one, so the force of sealing the insulation into the seams was less. and so on. Due to such circumstances, the caulking of inter-crown seams turns out to be uneven and of poor quality.

Caulking with a hammer drill has only one positive fact: speed.

But professional caulkers will never allow themselves to use a hammer drill, since the main factor is important to them: quality.

Also, we will not dwell on such non-professional caulking as an ax, chisel, etc., that is, an improvised tool that we could find in the house.

Last year, on a neighboring site, we observed the process of caulking a log house by a woman using an ax and the poking method. It is clear that women’s hands only superficially plugged the visual “holes.” In this way, without a special tool for caulking a log house and the correct technology, high-quality insulation will not work. The problem of “draft” will arise for the owners within a year, when the new log house settles...

Despite the wide range of materials, building houses made of natural wood is still a priority for many people. Wood is not only an environmentally friendly, durable and reliable material. Houses made from timber “breathe”, which allows you to maintain a healthy indoor microclimate. But in order for your home to be warm and free from drafts, you need to correctly follow all stages of construction.

Insulating a log house is a very important step that will help maintain heat in the home and prevent the penetration of moisture and dampness into the room. Since ancient times, log houses were caulked with moss; at that time it was the only available material for insulating housing. The modern choice of insulation materials that can be placed between logs is much wider. Caulking the gaps between the beams provides high-quality thermal insulation.

Stages of log house insulation

A log house shrinks over several years. Despite the fact that a crown seal is always placed between the logs, it is not possible to avoid cracks and gaps in the walls.

The first time the log house is caulked immediately after or during construction. The work process itself is quite painstaking and time-consuming. The walls are insulated a second time after a year or more. During this time, the logs are exposed to the environment, which may cause the material to become slightly deformed. It is the cracks that appear after shrinkage that need to be caulked again.

The third time the walls of the house need to be caulked is after 5 years after the construction of the log house. During this period, the house will finally shrink and the material will take on its final shape.

Important rule! You need to caulk the log house strictly according to the scheme: start sealing the gaps on the lower crown, along the entire perimeter of the house. Only after one row of logs is sealed can you begin to insulate the second row. If this rule is not followed, the log house may warp.

"Stretched."

This method involves pushing the insulation material into the gaps using a special tool. In this case, the gap is tightly filled with insulation, the remaining material is tightly rolled into a roller and forcefully pushed into the gap.

"Recruiting."

This method is suitable for filling wide gaps. The insulation is made into bundles, which are then twisted into loops. These loops are pushed into the gaps and completely fill the free space. With this method of insulation, material residues do not stick out from the cracks.

Materials for filling gaps between logs

Natural materials

Moss. Despite the fact that moss has been used to insulate walls for many centuries, it still does not lose popularity. This natural material is not only environmentally friendly and safe, but also provides long-term antibacterial protection for wood. Moss prevents mold and mildew from growing in the gaps between logs.

This material is made by grinding flax and pressing it into ribbons. Linen wool has good heat-saving properties, is not subject to rotting, and does not accumulate moisture. This material is laid between the crowns during the construction of the log house. Attached to logs using a construction stapler.

Jute. Today it is one of the highest quality and most durable materials for caulking log houses. Jute tapes are laid between the crowns during the construction of the log house. Attached to brackets. Jute does not rot, is not hygroscopic, and is durable. The only drawback is the rather high cost of the material.

Also, when purchasing insulation, you should pay attention to the fact that the material should not contain any secondary additives, for example, flax. If there are additives, then the insulation is not durable and resistant to rotting.

Rubber sealants

Working with these insulation materials is quite simple, not labor intensive and does not require effort. Sealants can be divided into three types.

Soft sealant in special tubes is squeezed into the cracks, filling the entire space. Excess extruded material is leveled. This sealant can be matched to the color of the wood, which will improve the appearance of the log house.

Video - Insulating a log house with acrylic sealant

Polyethylene foam in the form of a cord is pushed into the cracks and leveled. After drying, it can be coated with varnish or other covering material. Sold in different color options.

Briquettes for caulking a log house require the use of a special electric caulking gun. The liquid mass is squeezed into the slot through the nozzle and fills the free space. This insulation method is perfect for walls with large gaps, since the tool has several nozzles with different nozzle diameters.

Tools for caulking log houses

If sealants are not used for insulation, then before caulking the log house you need to purchase the following set of tools.

Mallet.

A hammer with a wooden or rubber base for working with blades. Stacked caulk.

This tool has a narrow spout that makes it easy to push material into narrow crevices. Crooked caulk.

This type of instrument has a curved shape. Allows you to quickly fill gaps of uneven width with insulating material.

Road worker. This is a wide spatula, similar to a spatula. Allows you to work faster with gaps of equal width.

What you need to know before starting work

1. The process of insulating and sealing walls using natural materials is a rather labor-intensive task. With this procedure, the material is forcefully driven into the cracks, which helps raise the entire structure of the log house by 10 -12 cm.
2. Before insulating the walls, you cannot carry out any finishing work inside or outside the house. Raising the crowns can cause damage to the entire finish.
3. You need to start work from the lower crowns of the structure. The material is driven into the cracks evenly and consistently. After the lowest logs around the entire perimeter have been insulated, you can work on the overlying crown.
4. Caulking only one wall can lead to deformation of the entire structure of the log house; it is also not recommended to use different materials with different hygroscopicity indicators to insulate one building. When moisture accumulates, the insulation tends to expand, which can also lead to distortion of the frame.
5. If self-insulation has led to a distortion in the building’s structure, do not panic. Professionals who do this type of work can correct defects by re-caulking.
6. Particular attention should be paid to caulking cracks at the corners of the house. Since a locking or groove fastening system was used for the construction of the log house, the gaps may vary in size.

To insulate stretched walls, tow or other fibrous materials are most often used. You need to take a bunch of insulation in your hands, smooth it out, forming a wide strand. The material is then applied to the gap. It is important that the fibers run across the gap.

The insulation is pushed between the logs, the remains of the fibrous material should stick out 5-6 cm from the gap. Then a dense roller is rolled up from the protruding fibers, which, using a tool, is forcefully pushed into the gap and hammered in with a chisel. After this procedure, the material should not protrude more than 1 cm between the logs. The amount of material from which the strand is formed depends on the width of the gap. The larger the gap, the more insulation you need to take.

For this type of insulation, it is necessary to pre-prepare the material. Thin and long strands are formed from the insulation, which are rolled into a ball. Then the resulting bundles are folded into loops, which are pushed into the gaps between the logs. This method of insulation is suitable if the cracks in the log house are large and different in width.

When caulking, the loops are first driven into the upper part of the gap, then compacted into the lower part. In this way, you can achieve uniform filling of the space between the logs and high-quality thermal insulation of the walls.

If jute was used as insulation, then after the house shrinks, additional thermal insulation of the log house is required. When laying the crowns, the jute should be placed between the logs so that the edges of the insulation protrude a few centimeters in the gaps. After the log house has shrunk, it is necessary to additionally caulk the walls. To do this, the protruding ends of the jute are tucked down and forcefully driven into the resulting gaps. It is also necessary to follow the insulation technology: sealing the gaps must begin from the lower crowns.

It is not necessary to drive the insulation into the very top crowns, which are located high, using a mallet. It is enough to push the jute into the gaps with a spatula.

Video - How to properly caulk a house using jute

How to properly caulk the frame of a house and the frame of a wooden bathhouse made of timber? What is the difference between caulking at home and caulking in a bathhouse?

What tool can you offer for caulking a log house? How (what material) should I use to caulk log houses and bathhouses? Which caulk (tool) is better to use when punching inter-crown seams - oak or metal caulk? On which sides should a wooden frame be caulked? What are the advantages of log buildings?

Professional carpenter-caulker Ivanov Petr Petrovich answers this question.

What are the advantages and disadvantages of wooden log houses and baths?

Most often, beautiful log houses are preferred for the construction of country houses. The construction of a residential building and even a bathhouse must be taken seriously. There are other building materials on the market that can be purchased for this purpose. Therefore, before purchasing wooden material, you should familiarize yourself with all the advantages and disadvantages of a log house.

Advantages of wooden houses and baths

1. Wooden buildings have a natural beauty. They always look great. There is no need to carry out finishing decorative work for this. You can only use colorless paints and varnishes, which will only emphasize the structure of the material.
2. The construction of wooden houses does not take much time; they are erected quickly. The walls of the house can be erected within 7 days; all that remains is the roof and caulking.
3. If for a stone house you need to build a deep and powerful foundation, then for wooden houses you can build a columnar one. The log structure is lightweight.
4. Houses made of natural wood are the safest, because a more environmentally friendly material than this material can no longer be found in construction stores or markets. The main thing is to use only natural materials when operating and insulating the house, which will not disturb the eco-friendly atmosphere, and, moreover, are not capable of harming it when in contact with wood.
5. Wooden houses retain heat well. The walls of the house perfectly withstand severe frosts in winter. Thanks to this advantage, you can significantly save on space heating.
6. In terms of its cost, a wooden house is more profitable than one made from stone building materials.
7. In a wooden house you will not be disturbed by extraneous sounds coming from the street, because... The log house has good soundproofing characteristics.

Disadvantages of wooden houses and baths

1. Uneven drying may cause cracks to form on the surface of wooden materials. To prevent this from happening, it is recommended to impregnate the material in the first years after construction with special impregnations that will prevent the surface from cracking. If cracks do appear on the surface, they must be eliminated immediately so that they do not develop into deep cracks that will affect the strength characteristics of the material (you can use sealants for this).
2. The log house needs to be given time to shrink. Wooden material contains moisture, even if it has been kiln dried. It is advisable to let the log house stand in an unheated, non-living state for the first year after construction, so that the material dries out under natural conditions and shrinks evenly.
3. Wooden material is not able to withstand fire on its own. It quickly flares up, and an all-consuming fire quickly spreads through the wood. To protect your home you need to purchase fire retardants (fire retardants). There are many such funds on the construction markets. They exist in two types: providing treated wood with fire resistance group 1 and fire resistance group 2, i.e. after processing, the material becomes non-flammable or difficult to ignite. On average, such compositions provide protection for a period of 5 years.
4. With high air humidity, wood-staining mold fungi may appear on wooden materials. Wood-destroying fungi also form, which can completely destroy the wood in a short time. To protect the material from biological pests, it must also be periodically treated with antiseptic protective compounds. You also need to constantly ventilate the premises.
5. In addition to fungi and mold, wooden material can be exposed to insects. These pest beetles wear away wood from the inside; their appearance is difficult to detect immediately, and during their stay in the wood structure they can cause significant harm to it and deteriorate its strength. To combat beetles, you need to treat them with compounds without waiting for them to appear.

There are disadvantages to the wooden material, but you may not even encounter them during the operation of the log house if you carry out preventive work correctly and in a timely manner. But wood has many advantages that are almost impossible to impart to other building materials.

Almost any wooden structure, built from logs or timber, exhibits significant shrinkage in height during the drying period. During the shrinkage process, uneven various air gaps are formed between the crowns of the frame of a wooden house or bathhouse. To eliminate these gaps, it is necessary to caulk - densely punch (pack) the inter-crown joints with a suitable insulating caulking material. In this case, it is advisable to have a special tool designed for caulking work.

Photo: the simplest and most reliable way to caulk logs of a wooden frame is traditional.

Shrinkage of the log house is the main catalyst for caulking work!

Logs and beams are a building material that repeatedly, especially during the drying process, changes its configuration and volume depending on weather conditions, the operating time of the building, and the method of processing the logs and beams. Various gaps between the crowns of a house or bathhouse, as the logs and timber of a wooden house naturally dry, gradually increase in size and, as a result, cracks appear in the wood. Through them, heat begins to escape from the premises and the wall loses its soundproofing abilities.

What to do? You ask!

Caulking a log house or bathhouse is a very tight seal of the grooves between the crowns of the log house, in the grooves between the logs and in the notches of the corners of a wooden log house using a special hand tool for caulking work.

Proper caulking is a rather complex operation to seal the inter-crown seams. After shrinkage of the walls, it is necessary to caulk log cabins and log cabins made of simple sawn timber. Also, as a rule, after one year, houses and bathhouses made of rounded and simple chopped logs are caulked.

Profiled timber is usually not caulked when assembled correctly; the system of grooves and tenons allows you to reliably insulate a wall made from such timber without caulking. Logs of a log house, and especially simple (not laminated timber) timber, are very susceptible to torsion. At the same time, the insulation placed between them gradually erodes, leaving behind cracks into which the wind can easily blow. In addition, birds carry tow to build their nests. To caulk a log house (caulking with a tool), you need to move along the perimeter and move from the lower crown to the upper one. After finishing the work on the outside, they move on to the internal wall of the log house.

The correct technology for caulking a log house using a hand-held caulking tool is as follows. Tow is taken from a bale or roll and rolled up in the form of a roller; its thickness should be slightly greater than the thickness of the inter-crown seam. You can make it according to the size of the interventional seams. Then, the resulting “rope” of tow is tightly hammered into the cracks between the logs. You need to use a hammer and caulking tool. But here, you need to be extremely careful and the force of “pushing” the caulk into the cracks should be tight, but not excessive. If you hammer the seam too hard, you can tear the log from the log, causing problems.

Precautionary measures

It is imperative to carry out caulking without wedging the crowns! Wedging the crowns of a log house is strictly prohibited by the rules for caulking work.

Where to buy material and tools?

We sell wholesale and retail various types of decorative cords, ropes and ropes, as well as various types of inter-crown insulation made of jute and flax, special materials and tools for carrying out caulk work for insulating log houses and baths.

In addition to the opportunity to buy materials and tools for caulking log houses from us, by calling us you can get more detailed advice and, possibly, a lower price for tools and caulking materials.

Photo: tow in tape for caulking wooden housing construction objects

Photo: jute tape in rolls is a good material for caulking.

Photo: caulking tool. Iron caulks are most often used for caulking (caulking work), due to their strength and the ability to produce “dense”, high-quality caulking of a wooden frame.

Below in the video, below - you can see what materials are worth buying to perform caulking of a log house of a wooden house

Caulk is a slang word that refers to the process of caulking the walls of a wooden house. It comes from the name of the tool for sealing gaps and cracks in the frame of a wooden structure - caulking.

Tools used for caulking

Caulk is a wooden spatula. It is made of hard wood and looks like a blade with a pointed end and handle. Strikes to the shoulder blade are applied mallet— it is also made of hard wood. Strikes with a mallet must be applied until the material begins to spring back, as it were, that is, to the maximum possible density. Builders call this condition “before the bell rings.” By gradually adding insulation, the seam being sealed is completely filled.

Attention! We do not sell tools, we do caulking of log houses.

By using flat caulking(A) caulk the gaps and grooves. The width of its blade is 100 mm, and its thickness is 5 mm. To seal corners and rounded areas, use a special crooked caulk(B) - its width is also 5 mm, and the blade is narrower, approximately 50 - 60 mm. To settle strands of tow and give them a roller shape, use road worker(G). The width of its blade reaches 170 mm, and the thickness is from 8 to 15 mm. A groove 10 mm deep is made along the length of the blade. It is more convenient to have three road guides - for grooves of different sizes: wide, medium and narrow. By using breaking caulk(B) with a 30mm wide wedge-shaped blade, widens narrow grooves, making it easier to insert insulating material into the gaps. Mallet, mushel, beater(D) - all these are the names of the wooden hammer that is used to hit the caulk.

The general requirements for all types of caulking tools are that their blades should not be too sharp so as not to cut the insulation used. They should not have any roughness on which the inserted materials could get caught and accidentally be removed from the groove.

Some nuances of caulking

The wooden structure is caulked in several stages. The first stage is caulking the building immediately after the roof is erected. In order for a wooden house to be warm and windproof, it must be caulked on both sides - external and internal. It is very important to properly insulate a building. Caulking begins from the bottom crown and sealant is placed in the gaps around the perimeter of the entire building. Then they move on to the next seam and continue work on insulating the structure to the very top.

At the same time as the outside of the structure, the inside should also be caulked. When insulating external and internal walls in turn, vertical deviation of the walls is possible. At first glance, caulking seems to be a fairly simple construction operation; in fact, it is a complex, time-consuming job, on which the quality of the built house largely depends.

The second time caulking is done after the house has given its initial, basic shrinkage. This usually happens after a year or two, depending on the type of material from which the structure is built, the degree of its humidity, and some other factors.

After 4 - 5 years, to achieve the final thermal insulation effect, it is advisable to repeat the work of caulking the building.

The window sill will help protect the building from the undesirable consequences of natural shrinkage. It will protect window and door openings from deformation, and the seal placed between the logs or beams and the casing itself will additionally insulate the structure.

To ensure that all the necessary work is completed efficiently and professionally, it is best to seek help from a team of specialists. Professional workers of the Konotopets.ru company, having invaluable many years of experience in working with wood, will carry out the necessary construction operations with high quality and with full responsibility.