Economical stove for the garage with your own hands. How to make a stove-stove for a garage with your own hands

Stove for the garage (photos, drawings, video)

The issues of heating garages in winter have to be resolved by owners of buildings that are not connected to a centralized network or are not built into a single heating system of a suburban area. Often, an additional garage heater saves car enthusiasts whose individual car parking is heated with insufficient efficiency. The cold, which has a detrimental effect on the car and prevents the owner from working in the garage, can be dealt with in several ways. The choice of the appropriate option depends on the economic status of the car owner and the type of building for storing it.

Why do you need heating in the garage?

The standards regulate the temperature that is favorable for storing a car; it is 5° C and allows deviations of one degree. Every car enthusiast probably knows what happens to a car at a lower temperature. Most of them, without a doubt, have had to deal with the labor-intensive task of starting the engine in cold weather, which is especially noticeable after the car has been parked for a long time.

Even antifreeze can freeze when exposed to low temperatures. Car enthusiasts who use plain water for cooling and drain it every night at night cannot fill the radiator with hot water. This can cause the cylinder block and the head of this unit, frozen from frost, to burst. Once in a very cool environment, boiling water freezes within a couple of moments and clogs the channels with ice plugs.

A primitive, expensive method of preventing these troubles is to run the engine around the clock, which reduces the life of the engine and entails high costs. Moreover, the car owner will still need to warm up the transmission with a blowtorch or a basic fire. After reading the list of threats and gaining practical experience, the garage owner comes to a natural conclusion: he needs a factory heater or a homemade garage stove that maintains a constant temperature with parameters dictated by standards.

Types of furnaces for garages

• The choice of the optimal heating method is influenced by two main aspects:
• the period of time during which the garage will need to be heated;
• the amount of money that the owner is able to invest in the construction of the furnace.

If the garage is a domestic extension to a residential building, it makes sense to equip it with heating devices and then connect it to the general network. In an autonomous garage located far from residential buildings with communications, you will need to make an individual system.

All garage heating units used today are classified based on the difference in the operating principle of the energy source. You can equip the building by installing in the garage:

Gas heating boiler. Quite productive equipment is distinguished by an affordable price and independence from power sources. However, in areas that do not have access to central gas supply networks, this heating method is not possible. The disadvantages include the risk of explosion.

Units that supply thermal energy through the combustion of solid fuels. You can buy a factory-made stove, foreign or domestic, or you can make a simple stove for the garage with your own hands. This is the most rational heating method in terms of costs and the resulting effect.

Electric heating devices, the attractive side of which is the ability to choose equipment with power that exactly matches your needs. Negative quality of systems powered from the mains, energy consumption with a rather large payment.

Furnaces operating on waste machine oil.

Electrical heating equipment is now represented by a wide range of factory products. The main argument in their favor is mobility, which allows the units to be installed in areas that are most in need of high heating rates. Garage owners who are not too concerned about energy consumption can purchase infrared systems, oil radiators or heat guns in stores.

Equipment produced by manufacturers is equipped with devices that can be used to set the direction of heat flow and adjust power. There are wheels for easy movement of equipment, systems that provide users with safety, preventing premature wear and tear of units. Heat guns and infrared heaters are also available in the range of gas systems.

An extensive range of factory-made garage stoves allows you to select and purchase a unit with any capacity that processes the type of fuel that is optimal for the owner.

Productivity and efficiency are combined with equipment running on standard solid fuel, which uses coal, special pallets, and firewood. They are produced in a wide range by industry.

Heating systems made from heat-resistant materials from manufacturers are installed in the places specified by the manufacturers using the simplest method described in the instructions. However, a basic wood-burning garage stove, made with your own hands, will be just as productive, but will cost tens of times less.

Benefits of a wood stove

An economical wood-burning stove made with your own hands is easy to maintain; many consider it the best option for arranging self-contained garages. The most common design is a potbelly stove, the installation of which requires compliance with two overriding rules:

A potbelly stove can only be used in rooms that have openings that provide air flow and pipelines that provide exhaust ventilation.

It is necessary to install the heating structure in a garage area, away from flammable objects, wood elements, and from places where lubricants and flammable consumables are placed.

One of the options for a potbelly stove can only be installed in garages with natural or artificial ventilation.

In addition to the efficiency and rapid rate of heating of the room, the popularity of this design is justified by the following convincing reasons: advantages:

• extremely low cost of equipment and affordable price of the fuel required for its functionality;
• the ability to independently install a productive, durable stove at minimal financial costs;
• excellent efficiency with small unit sizes;
• cheap installation;
• not labor-intensive maintenance;
• no need to build a special foundation for the stove;
• the ability to use a hand-made product for heating and cooking food.

This method also has disadvantages. The main one among them is the rather high consumption of inexpensive, but taking up a certain amount of fuel. Firewood is quickly consumed because the metal structure is not able to accumulate the generated heat. The energy obtained as a result of burning wood is immediately transferred to the air mass, but after the stove is no longer heated, the metal body cools down very quickly.

There is a method to reduce fuel costs, which consists of modernizing the design. A potbelly stove will require significantly less firewood if the pipe is mounted into the body almost above the door, and not, as is traditional, near the back wall.

By moving the position of the pipe, the walls of the stove will heat up first, and only then the combustion products will enter the pipe. At the same time, the time for the release of thermal energy will increase, since the clay concrete, insulated metal or brick pipeline cools more slowly than the metal of the body. In addition, the period required to heat the interior space in the garage will be shortened.

Structural components of a potbelly stove

The variability in the designs of stoves of the “potbelly stove” type predetermines the lack of clear regulations. Each master makes it at his own discretion, in accordance with personal preferences. But regardless of which scheme the manufacturer chose, all heating units of this type have common structural elements, these are:

Constructive diagram of the simplest stove-stove

• the firebox, which is a standard combustion chamber, its configuration and dimensions are not declared by strict canons;
• a grate installed at the base of the structure, it is needed to create traction and to place firewood;
• chimney pipeline, it can be curved or spiral; in the case of using a standard straight pipe, it should be noted that the length of straight horizontally installed sections of the chimney, according to building regulations, should not exceed 1 meter.
• An ash pan located under the grate, which is a device for collecting ash.

The simplest “bourgeois” stove consists of a metal body equipped with a fuel supply door and a pipe, the location of which is determined by the manufacturer. You can make small holes in the bottom as a blower; they will help create good traction. The tortuosity of the chimney is dictated by the need to reduce the speed of hot air moving through the pipe. The smoke, lingering in the chimney, will transfer thermal energy to the room, and not “fly out into the chimney” with undesirable swiftness.

Furnace operating at "working off"

The main advantage of this heating equipment is the use of the cheapest, often free, fuel. A simple, reliable unit operates without a nozzle or dropper. This is an extremely cheap stove - it’s not difficult to make it in the garage with your own hands, and it’s also not a problem to always find fuel for it.

A standard diagram of a garage stove operating on waste oil; the master can select his own dimensions.

Structurally, the furnace that processes waste oil consists of two containers connected by a perforated pipe. The lower element with a volume of 12 liters serves as a firebox and fuel tank. There should be a hole equipped with a lid on the upper plane of the bottom of the stove. The hole is needed for filling fuel, the lid is needed to control the operation of homemade equipment. By slightly opening and closing the lid, the owner will control the supply of oxygen required for combustion, on which heating productivity depends.

The upper container and the pipe connecting the two main parts play the role of heating elements of the furnace. This homemade device can heat up to 800-900° C. To prevent the containers from burning out, sheet iron with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm is used to make them. A pipe is welded to the top of the stove, onto which an exhaust pipe made of galvanized steel alloy is installed. The entire furnace structure should not be monolithic, since the upper container will need to be removed to remove soot from the burner.

Structural components of a future garage stove that processes waste oil.

How to make a stove with your own hands

To manufacture such a device, you will not need drawings, any in-depth technical knowledge, or professional skills. The unit will consume up to one and a half liters per hour, the entire system weighs no more than 30 kg. Standard dimensions that do not take into account the exhaust pipe vary from 35 to 70 cm. Most often, a pipe with a cross-section of 105 mm is used to make the hood.

For those who want to know how to make a stove in the garage correctly, and what to do so that the operation of the homemade product does not cause problems, there are several important recommendations:

• The preferred chimney height is about 4 meters, which is necessary for the formation of good draft.
• A stove operating during exhaust must be cleaned every ten days.
• There will be much less soot if the diameter of the top pipe is larger than the dimensions of the exhaust element.
• The unit must be installed in the garage area so that there are no nearby explosive substances or flammable objects.

Oil with any degree of purification is suitable for operating the stove. The unrefined composition is quite suitable. If you come to an agreement with the owners of nearby garages and install some kind of reservoir to drain the oil, the fuel for the stove will be completely free. You can use transmission, transformer, machine oil, diesel, and any heating oil to heat your garage.

There are a colossal number of waste stoves that have a similar design and operate on the same principle.

Such a homemade stove is ignited using paper or newspaper inserted into the lower tank, on top of which fuel is poured. The contents will begin to boil in about ten minutes; the combustion process is initiated due to the oil’s ability to spontaneously ignite. Fuel is added in 5 liter portions. When using purified compounds, maintenance of structural elements can be done less frequently, which will also be facilitated by increasing the cross-section of the chimney.

Video: manufacturing and operating tips:

A functional, efficient stove for a garage building can be made with your own hands at minimal cost. A novice master can do it without any problems, exorbitant costs of labor and professional skills. Homemade stoves are easy to use, productive, and safe if the rules are followed.

The garage has a small area and ceiling height, and it is also not advisable to spend a lot of money on heating.

Accordingly, there are specific requirements for the heating structure:

1. Small size. Usually, the garage does not have an abundance of free space, so few people are able to afford a monumental stove.
2. Fastest heating possible. A lot of time to workout is an unaffordable luxury today.
3. Normal air temperature must be maintained for a long time absolutely autonomously.
4. Cheap and easy to manufacture. It would be good if the structure was made from scrap materials.
5. Release of harmful substances is not allowed while working. You can get burned very quickly in a small closed garage.
6. Fire safety. Typically, car owners keep a small supply of fuel, oil and other chemicals. All this applies to highly flammable materials.

Such simple requirements narrow the number of possible heating options. Let's consider those that easily fit into all the criteria.

Potbelly stove - simple and practical

The simplest, therefore the most common type of garage stove for our country. For production, barrels, large-diameter pipes, and simple structures made of welded metal sheets are used.

Advantages:

1. Quick start of heat transfer. On average, no more than 10 minutes are spent on kindling. After this time, the space begins to heat up.
2. High efficiency. Improved models (ash pan, afterburning system, etc.) boast 85%. But even the simplest representatives allow achieving not much less efficiency.
3. Uniform heating. Moreover, this useful quality does not depend on the location of the device. A fireplace, for example, can become useless if the installation location is chosen incorrectly.
4. Fuel versatility. Any solid type of fuel (sawdust, coal, boards, waste) burns in a potbelly stove.
5. Relatively low price, especially when compared with masonry.
6. Easy to use. We lit firewood, loaded enough of it, closed the lid and forgot about the heating unit until the next time.
7. Can be used as a hob. A sheet of cast iron on top will make it possible to make tea, heat up lunch, even cook fish soup or other delicacies.

Flaws:

1. There is practically no heat accumulation. cools down quickly, stopping heating.
2. High chimney. For normal traction, a pipe height of at least 4 meters is recommended.
3. Regular chimney cleaning. A small pipe diameter requires cleaning work weekly, a large pipe diameter – once every 2 months.

Manufacturing procedure

The progress of work when using sheet steel or a gas cylinder (large diameter pipes) is somewhat different, so we will consider these 2 designs separately.

Sheet steel

Basic steps:

1. Cutting a sheet of metal, with a thickness of at least 5 millimeters into rectangles of the required size (the dimensions of the product are selected depending on the area of ​​the room - the larger the garage, the larger the unit).
2. The walls of the device are welded(side, back). After this, the lid is attached by welding.
3. The grille is attached. In this case, you can use welded reinforcement with a diameter of 16 millimeters, or a sheet of metal with drilled holes with a diameter of no more than 20 millimeters.

Installation method - welding to the walls, or laying on a pre-attached channel:

1. The front wall is being prepared. Holes are cut for storing fuel and an ash pan.
2. Prepared sheet welded to the other three.
3. The bottom is attached.
4. According to the selected drawing, a hole for the pipe is cut on the lid or side.
5. Prepared chimney is installed in its place.

It is important to consider that the longer the chimney, the greater the efficiency. The exhaust gas will heat the space as it escapes outside.

Gas cylinder

The thickness of the metal allows you to use the cylinder that has exhausted its life. Manufacturing:

1. Marking is being done. The outline of the future door for loading firewood and a hole in the middle of the cylinder for installing an ash mesh are outlined. You don’t have to cut the second hole, but simply drill holes in this area, which is easier.
2. Marked areas cut or drilled. At the same time, a place for the pipe is being prepared.
3. The grate is being made.
4. The grille is welded, under it there is a grate with a door (allows you to conveniently get rid of ash and regulate the intensity of combustion).
5. The oven door is welded(the simplest and most affordable option is store-bought).
6. The chimney pipe is being installed, with a diameter of 100 millimeters.

Waste oil furnace

This type of fuel is usually available in large quantities at service stations and large garage cooperatives. Most often, the drained oil is simply disposed of, but it can be used to heat the garage well in winter.

The positive points include:

1. Oil combustion does not entail the formation of soot and fumes.
2. The principle of direct air heating is used. Therefore, the power of the device is comparable to electrical appliances at low operating costs (from half a liter per hour).
3. Fire safety. The oil itself does not ignite; its vapors participate in the combustion.
4. Simplicity and durability designs.

But there is a negative:

1. Nessesary to use filtered lubricating fluid, which is difficult to do yourself. On the market, such processing is found at a price of about 10 rubles per liter.
2. At sub-zero temperatures the mining will freeze, so you need either an uninterrupted source of oil or a warm room to store supplies.

Manufacturing progress

Most often, sheet metal is used, so let’s look at the production stages in detail:

1. A strip is cut, 11.5 centimeters wide with a metal thickness of 4 millimeters. Using special equipment, the material is bent to form a circle with a diameter of about 35 centimeters. We weld the ends. The result was a fuel tank pipe.
2. A circle is formed from the same metal with a diameter of 0.35 meters is a cover. We weld the pipe and the cover together.
3. Steel is taken, 6 millimeters thick, from which a strip 60 millimeters wide is made. Similarly, we obtain a pipe with a diameter of 35.5 centimeters.
4. From a sheet of six a circle-lid is cut out (diameter is the same 35 and a half). In the middle we cut a hole with a radius of 5 centimeters (for the chimney), to the right a hole with a diameter of 4 centimeters is made (a place for pouring oil). We weld the parts and get the upper part of the container.
5. We connect the upper and lower parts without welding(we put it on, it should be tight). The result was a tank for working off.
6. The pipe is being prepared with a diameter of 10 centimeters and a height of 36 centimeters. Holes are drilled in it in 6 rows (8 pieces in a row), with a diameter of 1 centimeter.
7. The pipe is welded into the container lid(a hole for this was made earlier).
8. The upper container is made of metal 6 millimeters thick and 35 centimeters in diameter. The height is 18 centimeters. On the top and bottom lids we make holes with a diameter of 10 centimeters near the edge of the circle. When welding a finished tank, the holes are located on opposite edges.
9. We weld a plate inside the upper tank. It should not touch the top cover and be about 30 centimeters long. This way, the hot gas will linger in the container before exiting, heating it;
10. Putting the structure together electric welding. We insert a vertical chimney 4 meters high.

Brick oven

If you need to create a durable, reliable structure that will perfectly cope with heating a garage, then you cannot find a better material than brick. Manufacturing will require some skills, but you can do it yourself.

Advantages:

1. High heat capacity. To maintain a comfortable temperature around the clock, it is enough to light the stove 2 times a day.
2. Does not affect air humidity, unlike other options considered.
3. High fire protection characteristics.
4. Safety. The outer wall does not heat up to a high temperature, so there will be no accidental burns.
5. Huge service life.

But there are arguments against:

1. High inertia. It is not possible to warm up the garage quickly; the brick takes several hours to gain temperature.
2. Relatively high cost.
3. Complexity of creation, danger to life if laid incorrectly.

Step-by-step instruction

row laying scheme

For work, we stock up on refractory bricks and clay, cement, and fine sifted sand. Let's consider the simplest option with dimensions of two bricks on all sides.

How to make masonry:

1. First 2 rows spread horizontally over the entire oven area. It turns out to be some kind of basis.
2. From 3 to 6 row the bricks lie flat around the perimeter, leaving a recess for the door. This is how the furnace is laid out. The 6th row should lie on top of the door, securing it.
3. 7 row placed in such a way that there is a hole inside the size of a brick.
4. 8 row again flat around the perimeter, creating an extension of the interior space.
5. 9 row– brick with an edge along the inner perimeter.
6. 10 row– along the inner perimeter, but flat. A narrowing is created.
7. Subsequent rows go with the same alternation, creating alternate narrowing and expansion.
8. In front of the chimney entrance, we narrow the furnace, bringing the internal space to the diameter of the pipe.
9. The chimney is inserted, the gap is covered with clay and insulated with mineral wool.

Before starting operation, burn some paper inside, checking the traction.

Long burning stove

Another type of stove that deserves close attention. Its advantages:

1. Low fuel consumption.
2. The versatility of the oven. You can load almost anything into the firebox, from firewood with sawdust to leaves and all sorts of debris.
3. Long constant heating(one load allows heating from 12 to 24 hours).

But there are also significant disadvantages:

1. Official ban adopted on a stove of this type from firefighters. Therefore, if something happens, you will have to forget about insurance or other similar payments.
2. It is almost impossible to forcibly extinguish smoldering fuel., so the unit will work autonomously for a very long time, whether you want it or not.
3. Solid fuel must be dry. This means that you will have to allocate space in the garage for firewood.

Manufacturing instructions

The design is in many ways reminiscent of a potbelly stove, and the easiest way to make a stove is from a barrel. Work order:

1. Top edge of the barrel cut with a grinder.
2. At a height of 25-30 centimeters from the bottom a grate is installed to get rid of ash.
3. Welding a metal lid(at least steel four) with a 100 mm hole in the middle for the air duct.
4. A hole is cut on the side surface of the barrel (10-12 centimeters) for the chimney.
5. A metal circle is cut out equal to the diameter of the barrel with a hole matching in size and location with a similar one on the lid. This is how a press is made.
6. A hole is cut for the ash pan lid. This device is inserted.
7. Pipe damper installed air supply. The intensity of smoldering is regulated by the flow of incoming oxygen.
8. Chimney being installed at least 5 meters long.

Which oven should you choose?

There is no definite answer here; it all depends on the goals and time spent in the garage.

Conditional classification:

1. Go indoors for a few hours from time to time.(usually on weekends). In this case, a potbelly stove would be optimal. An open flame from burning oil vapors in a small garage can be dangerous, because there is a car nearby and a highly flammable liquid. Typically, a service station uses a furnace for mining. So a potbelly stove is the best choice.
2. The garage is your everything. A person may be retired, use the premises for primary or additional work, or even keep small livestock (rabbits, broilers). In this case, you need to spare no expense and create a brick structure. In this case, a long-term effect is obtained at the lowest cost. A long-burning furnace is suitable for these purposes; its production is cheaper. But fire safety in this case will suffer somewhat.

1. Chimney o The core of the base should be made of thick steel, and closer to the end even tin will do.
2. Laying a brick oven Still, it is better to entrust it to a professional stove maker. Errors in construction will lead to loss of money, and possibly health.
3. Welding seams must be airtight, otherwise disaster is not far away.
4. Metal can be painted to improve appearance. But only with heat-resistant paint.

The easiest and most convenient way to heat a garage in winter is to install some kind of electric heater. Many motorists do this, but then they have to deal with electricity bills that are not comparable with the heat received due to the high tariff. On the other hand, a stove for a garage using wood or exhaust is not as comfortable to use, but it will certainly be cheaper. This material will outline how to save even more and make such a stove yourself.

Wood burning stove

There are very few requirements for such stoves:

• so that it generates heat well;
• was suitable for burning any wood;
• fit on the space allocated for her.

Since simple stoves for a garage do not particularly need aesthetics, home craftsmen usually weld them from whatever comes to hand or is found on scrap metal. So the shape of the body can be arbitrary; if you find a piece of a large pipe, the stove will be round; if you find some sheet metal, let’s make it rectangular. By and large, this does not matter much; the design itself is much more important.

The Internet is full of drawings of different stoves, but they are all derivatives of a traditional metal potbelly stove. The heater body can be oriented in a horizontal or vertical plane; this has almost no effect on operating efficiency. The fact is that a homemade vertical stove for the garage, made with your own hands, takes up less space. While long logs are placed in the horizontal one, it burns longer with one load. Choose which option you like best.

Traditional potbelly stoves do not have a grate; this stove is a hearth stove. The chimney is located in the rear part and is supplied from above, as shown in the drawing:

In a garage where flammable liquids and oils are stored, the absence of an ash pan is not the best option. When cleaning the hearth, hot coals may crumble, making the procedure inconvenient. For this reason, a simple wood-burning stove received grates, an ash pan and a door for cleaning, or even a drawer. As for the pipe, it is boiled in the usual place or on the back wall.

But the improved two-way potbelly stove has a pipe in the front part. The design of the furnace promotes increased heat transfer, since the flue gases inside it make two passes in different directions, intensively exchanging heat with the metal walls.

The last passage of gases ends at the front wall, which is why the pipe is in the front. Such a stove for a garage is very effective; it can be made according to the drawing presented above:

Increasing the exchange surface will further increase heat transfer. Craftsmen solved this issue long ago by welding ribs made of strip steel 4-5 mm thick to the body, as shown in the photo:

Without going into details and description of welding work, we will give some general recommendations:

• try to take thicker metal, if possible, 4-5 mm. Then the wood stove will last longer;
• when attaching the chimney from above, it is better to strengthen the wall; this joint burns out most often;
• external fins significantly improve heat exchange; they can be welded to any stove;
• You can install at least one partition inside, like a two-pass oven;
• It is better to make many small holes in the grate than large holes where unburnt coals will spill out.

Waste oil furnace

The simplest garage stove that runs on waste oil is well known to everyone. And, although its drawing is not difficult to find in RuNet, just in case we will present it again:

As you can see, such a heater is simple to manufacture, but there are some nuances during operation. The main enemy of such stoves is water, which, due to various circumstances, gets into the used oil. A very small amount of it causes strong pops in the perforated afterburner (a vertical pipe with holes), which can lead to a fire. It turns out that before use, the fuel must be settled to separate the water.

Important. Any furnace used for combustion, as well as for wood, requires a chimney with good draft for stable operation, so it is recommended to raise it to a height of at least 4 m.

The second drawback of the heater is the pungent odor during the ignition and warm-up stages. Otherwise, the use of the miracle stove, as it is called on specialized forums, does not cause any particular complaints. It warms up quite well. But on the same forums, craftsmen have long proposed a more reliable and efficient design. And not such a fire hazard. The principle by which such an oil stove operates is shown in the figure:

The fuel burns in a metal bowl located at the bottom of a vertical pipe (or gas cylinder). It is fed into the bowl in drops from a dosing device. Thanks to this scheme, if necessary, a liquid fuel stove can also burn diesel fuel; you just need to adjust the air supply and dosage. Some of the oil vapor burns out inside a vertical perforated pipe - an afterburner when secondary air is supplied. The furnace structure is shown in the drawing:

As a housing, you can use a thick-walled steel pipe or a propane cylinder. The range of the remaining metal is indicated in the drawing; we will not list it again. Instead, let’s focus on the method of air supply; it can be of two types:

• natural, due to chimney draft;
• forced pumping by a fan.

A homemade drip stove made from a pipe can also operate at low draft if there is no way to raise the chimney higher. This is facilitated by installing a fan that forces air inside the afterburner. Then, looking into the operating furnace from above, we can observe the following picture:

The method is considered more effective and quite reliable, tested by more than one garage owner. If desired, such a diesel stove is enclosed in a water jacket, turning into a hot water boiler. This will allow you to install radiator heating in the garage and significantly increase comfort during long stays indoors in winter. The warning for oil heaters is the same as for wood heaters: if there is a high-rise residential building in the immediate vicinity, you will have to return to the idea of ​​heating with electricity.

Self-installation of a stove in a garage must be carried out according to certain rules. Firstly, you need to ensure the operation of the heater, and secondly, take fire safety measures. As for the first point, it concerns the correct installation of the chimney, which must create normal draft. Here are the recommendations:

• pipe height - at least 4 m, counting from the grate;
• turns - no more than 3, avoid setting knees at 90º, try to use 45 or 30º;
• if there is a horizontal section, then its length is no more than 1 m;
• It is better to insulate the section of the pipe on the street with basalt wool to prevent the formation of condensation;
• Attach the chimney to the wall so that it does not load the body of the stove.

When installing a wood or oil stove yourself, follow fire safety requirements. Here is their list:

• Place a sheet of metal on the floors under the stove, protruding 1 m from the side of the door;
• combustible wall structures near the stove must be protected with metal or brick screens;
• when passing a wooden ceiling through the chimney, ensure a gap of 250 mm between it and the pipe, filling it with basalt fiber;
• in order to protect the flue from being blown in by the wind, install a deflector or a special nozzle on it;
• Natural supply and exhaust ventilation must function in the garage.

Conclusion

Compared to electric stove heating, garage heating is much more economical and sometimes even more efficient. But the installation and operation of oil and solid fuel heaters has its own characteristics that must be taken into account. Making stoves with your own hands will not be very difficult for a person who has the necessary skills. As a last resort, you can entrust the production to a familiar craftsman, choosing a suitable design.

Car enthusiasts have to spend a lot of time in the garage, and with the onset of cold weather it becomes not very comfortable because it is not much warmer in it than outside. Thoughts appear that it would not be a bad idea to heat this room.

Heating a garage is not difficult: you built a stove for heating the garage out of brick or installed a potbelly stove, and heat it with wood. But when should you devote time to work if you constantly need to add firewood to this gluttonous firebox? It turns out that the stove is not for you, but you are for the stove. Do you want a DIY garage stove that burns for a long time without your intervention? If yes, then to the point.

Furnace at work

This is a stove that you can assemble yourself. It is simple, effective, economical and reliable. Fuel for it: used oil - cheap. The design resembles a “potbelly stove”.

Advantages

This stove has many advantages:

• easy to manufacture;
• environmentally friendly: no smoke or soot emissions;
• uses waste as fuel that needs to be disposed of;
• mobile - can be easily assembled and disassembled;
• no nozzle or dropper required;
• fireproof - the fire does not develop into an open flame, since only waste vapors burn;
• You can attach a heating system to the furnace in the garage and even regulate the temperature. The design is very simple: just install the tank on the stove. In its upper part there is a supply, in the lower part there is a return. If necessary, you can even cook yourself something to eat on it.

Design

It is not difficult to make such a stove for the garage with your own hands. Its components:

• two containers;
• a pipe with a large number of holes connecting these containers;
• a pipe on the top container, and on it a pipe for exhaust;
• the top part is removable for cleaning the burner;

It works like this:

• the firebox is located in the lower part, which holds 12 liters. It also serves as a fuel tank;
• mining is poured through the hole at the top;
• you need to choose a cover for it, which, despite its simplicity, performs an important function - how hot the fuel burns, that is, the temperature in the room, depends on the position it is in. This is a kind of remote control that regulates the oxygen supply;
• the container located on top and the pipe act as heating elements. If the oven is heated to maximum, they will have a temperature of 800 to 900 degrees.

What are the main elements of the stove made of?

To make a stove you will need the following material:

• for the upper container and pipe - iron with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm;
• exhaust pipe - galvanized iron.

Specifications

• dimensions: height (excluding pipe) - 0.7 m;
• diameter of the upper container - 0.5 m;
• diameter of the lower container - 0.35 m;
• weight: approximately 30 kg;
• exhaust pipe diameter 10.5 cm;
• waste oil consumption is 0.5-1.5 liters per hour.

• a garage furnace can operate even on untreated waste;
• the optimal chimney height is 4 m;
• for good traction, exclude horizontal sections;
• clean the stove and chimney every ten days;
• there will be less soot if the diameter of the upper pipe is larger than the exhaust pipe;
• the degree of clogging of the chimney is inversely proportional to its diameter: the larger it is, the less clogged it is;
• when igniting, place paper in the lower tank, pour waste (0.5 l) onto it and set it on fire;
• in 10 minutes. add about 5 liters of waste, and after a while, the same amount;
• Keep substances that may ignite or explode away from the oven.

Homemade wood-burning garage stove

There are designs of wood-burning garage stoves in which combustion lasts from 7 to 60 hours.

What is needed for production?

If you decide on this option for a wood-burning stove for the garage, then stock up on:

• steel 200 l barrel;
• channel;
• pipes.

Sequence of operations

• remove the top of the barrel;
• straighten the edges;
• make a lid;
• we make a hole in it for the pipe;
• We weld the channel;
• We weld a pipe with a diameter of 15 cm in the upper part - this is the chimney;
• We place a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm in the center of the lid for air supply. It should protrude above the barrel.

Operating a Wood Stove

After manufacturing, a homemade garage stove needs to be tested:

• fill the stove to 1/3 of its volume with firewood;
• install a pipe that will supply air and close the lid. When the wood is burned, the lid is lowered;
• We slightly moisten the fuel through the pipe with kerosene and throw a match.

If everything is done correctly, the metal garage stove will burn for at least 7 hours. And if the entire volume is filled with firewood, then all 60.

Other types of garage heating stoves

Brick

Brick stoves for a garage should be compact, but otherwise their design is similar to conventional stoves:

• before starting masonry, prepare the base: plastic film, and on it a layer of sand 1 cm;
• then 11 rows of brickwork;
• the seams are unstitched;
• the surface of the slab is refined.

It will be warm as long as the wood is burning, and then it cools down quickly.

Gas

A gas furnace for a garage is effective and very convenient, especially if there is a line nearby that supplies gas. But if you decide to heat your garage in this way, you will have to deal with gas services that will make so many demands that it will hardly be possible to fulfill them. Still, if you overcome all the obstacles, then you won’t have any special worries with the stove for heating your garage. This option can be called ideal.

__________________________________________________

Is it really possible to make a stove for heating a garage with your own hands with minimal time and money? The idea is not new, but not everyone knows how to implement it. After reading the article, you will understand how to properly make a stove using wood, etc.

Of course, a self-made garage stove must meet certain requirements:
• simplicity of design;
• so that liquid or solid fuel can be used;
• compactness;
• ease of use;
• the ability to maintain high heating temperatures for a long time;
• quick heating to warm up the room;
• unpretentiousness in maintenance;
• relatively low costs for manufacturing materials.

Fuel moment

Initially, you should decide what fuel to use for heating the garage. Naturally, I would not want to use high-cost (expensive) coolants for heating. In addition, security issues are not in last place.

So, the following picture emerges:
• It is completely unreasonable to supply main gas. The slightest random spark (and there are many of them in the garage), and the risk of fire increases to the limit. The same goes for gas cylinders;
• electric heating will require too much financial expense;
• or hard coal - an option worthy in all respects;
• a homemade stove for mining is perhaps the best option in most cases.