We make a gas gun based on a blowtorch. How to make a homemade gas torch for soldering

A gas burner is special device, which ensures uniform combustion of gas and allows you to regulate the fuel supply. Often, not every person can afford such a device, but a do-it-yourself gas burner, made from scrap materials, will be an economical and practical alternative to factory-made analogues.

The main components in the manufacture of powerful gas burners are industrial valves. They may be new, but for homemade device It is enough to use used ones if there is no gas leak. They are designed to work in tandem with a 50-liter gas cylinder on propane, having an angle valve and a reducer.

Burner with valve VK-74

The structure of this burner is shown in Fig. 1. The valve of the oxygen cylinder VK-74 is taken as the basis. A machined machine is installed at the outlet end lathe a fitting-handle, to the corrugated part of which the hose from the cylinder is connected. A cap with a prepared hole with a thread for the nozzle is screwed onto the part of the valve with a conical thread K3/4˝, with which it was connected to the gas cylinder. Can be used ready-made option blowtorch or gas stove.

The nozzle is made from a piece steel pipe 1/4˝ 100 mm long and welded to the cap on two pieces of wire ∅5 mm. A distance of 15 mm should be left between the cap and the nozzle to allow air to enter the combustion zone. By bending the wire holders, the position of the nozzle is adjusted to achieve a central flame position.

Sequence of actions to ignite the burner:

  1. Open the cylinder valve;
  2. Place a lit match near the nozzle and slowly open the burner valve;
  3. Control gas ignition;
  4. Adjust the flame using the burner valve

By the way! The highest flame temperature is at the end of the green-blue part of the torch.

A homemade gas burner of this design has one drawback associated with the location of the valve. The gas flow is directed in the opposite direction to the normal position. Stuffing box seals experience constant gas pressure (including when the valve is closed), so it is necessary to constantly monitor the tightness of the seals.

Attention! Valve VK-74 should be used only when adjusting the flame. Stop the gas supply only at the cylinder

Burner converted from acetylene gas cutter

If you have an acetylene torch with a faulty oxygen supply valve, do not rush to throw it away. It is also suitable for making a burner (Fig. 2). The mixing chamber requires modifications, the contents of which must be removed to reduce weight. The oxygen barrel and valve will need to be removed. Solder the resulting hole with hard solder. Connect the hose coming from the gas cylinder reducer to a fitting with a left-hand thread M16 × 1.5.

Using a union nut, secure a homemade tip bent at 45° to the mixing chamber to make it more convenient to work with the burner. Screw a flange with a nozzle welded to it onto the thread of the tip.

One of the design options for such a burner is to use a cap with an M22 × 1.5 thread. The design of the nozzle here is similar to the nozzle of the burner described above. The homemade gas burner is ready for use.

Gas mini burner

Mini gas burners are more suitable for working with small details. The mini burner is based on a needle for inflating balls. It is necessary to make a cut in it, a little further than the middle of the needle. Some needles already have a similar hole, which significantly speeds up the work process. Next, you need to take the syringe needle and bend it about 45 degrees in the middle.

Mini gas burner design

It is best to sharpen the pointed end of a syringe needle so that it is straight. After this, it needs to be inserted into the ball needle so that one end comes out through the hole, and the other protrudes from the large needle by a few mm. The resulting mini structure should be fixed using soldering. After this, droppers must be attached to the bases of the two needles. Clamps - dropper regulators need to be moved as close to the needles as possible. In the resulting burner they will act as gas and air supply regulators. They also need to be fastened together, and this is best done using a heat gun. All that remains is to connect a source of compressed gas to the finished device, the burner is ready for use. This homemade gas burner can heat objects up to 1000 degrees. You should work with it carefully, observing safety precautions.

Infrared heater

Using homemade gas burners may give you the idea of ​​creating your own infrared heater. Such heaters are designed to heat houses or garages in the face of ever-increasing gas prices. The most in a simple way To keep warm is to use ordinary food foil. It must be mounted on the wall behind the battery. Heat flows will be reflected from the aluminum surface into the room, which will not allow heat to escape through the walls.

In more complex version you can use a spiral. To do this, you need to purchase an incandescent coil and an infrared port in the store. Making such a device is quite simple: the spiral needs to be placed in metal block which is connected to the mains. An infrared port is attached to the resulting structure. This device works based on the ability of the port to distribute thermal information received from the hot coil into the room.

For garages or other small non-residential premises a heater based on a small tin box and graphite sand. Such a device is quite compact, it does not require much space, and at the same time copes well with the tasks assigned to it. Before starting work, the container must be thoroughly rinsed and dried. It can be of any diameter and size; it is important that it fully matches your ideas about what the future heater should be like.

Graphite must be mixed with fine sand in a one-to-one ratio and fill the box halfway. From a sheet of tin you need to cut a circle with a diameter suitable for iron container, and attach the lead wire to its edges. This structure must be laid on a mixture of sand and granite, and then covered with the remaining mixture. Next, the container must be tightly closed with a lid to artificially create pressure inside it. The second wire of the container body is connected to the car battery.

You can regulate the heating temperature of such a device using the lid. When screwed tighter, the temperature of the tin box will be higher. If it is less, it will lose heat. It is important not to let such a heater overheat. In such cases, the box will begin to glow red or orange. When overheated, the sand sinteres, which leads to a loss of efficiency of the homemade gas burner. To restore it, shake the inside of the device.

Gas infrared heater more expensive in terms of materials, as it requires the purchase of small infrared ceramic heating pad. Best not to buy big device, since it will be “powered” by a small propane cylinder with a volume of 1 liter. In addition, you need a burner - a nozzle with a special tap. First of all, you need to get rid of all the burner nozzles, leaving only the pipe and tap. A hose is put on the pipe, which should be a little more than half a meter long. The gas cylinder is connected to this device. It is very important that it is in a vertical position, since the gas moves upward and not horizontally. This heater operates for two hours on a regular 200-gram cylinder.

Fishermen often use a similar device when winter fishing in a tent. A supply of gas cylinders allows you to comfortably spend the night on the ice. In addition, this design is safe, there is no open flame that can cause harm. Ceramic tiles 10 minutes are enough until it warms up completely, after which it begins to actively radiate heat, heating the air around it.

How to do gas burner with your own hands? Or a heater? Very simple! The main thing is to know the internal structure of these devices in order to have an idea of ​​​​its operation. After this production homemade design won't be difficult. The main thing is not to forget about observing safety precautions when working with open fire or its sources.

A blowtorch is one of the most indispensable things in everyday life, because with its help you can not only warm up frozen elements of locks or vehicles (snowmobile owners are especially familiar with its need), but also perform no less important work, like tarring poultry, pig carcasses, etc., etc. Many craftsmen have learned not only to effectively repair it, replacing worn-out parts, but also to even make a blowtorch with their own hands from available materials. But, first things first, the easiest way to make this multifunctional device at home is to make an open-flame lamp from a copper pipe with an insert. Samu copper pipe made curved at a right angle, using a special connecting corner for this purpose. A second piece of pipe is attached to this corner, but only of a shorter length.

Among other things, you will need such auxiliary fasteners as ball valves with rotating mechanism, tightly mounted on a copper or metal piece of pipe, a nut, a tip and a coupling device. Connection work is carried out using washers, modification no less than M6. The most difficult stage in performing a blowtorch at home is the manufacture and fixation of the burner. To provide maximum convenience to fit the tip, it is best to weld the nut to internal walls copper, which is known to have a very small thickness. Moreover, this approach makes it possible to significantly simplify not only the procedure for fixing the tip, but also its dismantling and replacement. After this, through holes are made along the entire diameter of the part, the main purpose of which is rigid coupling.

In order to maintain the most accurate level of the aligned connection parts during subsequent soldering, you will need to temporarily fix the auxiliary bolt, which is removed immediately after completion of the work as it is completely unnecessary. To attach the tip, the height of which ranges from eight to ten millimeters, you will need a special recess in the workpiece, the size of which will be about 4.5 millimeters. Also, don’t forget about this the most important stage, which occurs at the final stage of the work process, like wrapping those areas with a special fine mesh ball valve, which are adjacent to each other. Ultimately, if you follow the instructions correctly, it should lie exactly under the washer with the M6 ​​modification. Such a simple device will help to stop the gas supply in time, which is undoubtedly very convenient.

However, it cannot be said that we are talking about the most powerful means, but cope with the above simple tasks it can, and quite well. If desired, you can make more complex device, which can not only heat or burn surfaces, but also melt them. As an example, we can consider a gas burner made in the form of a spray gun, a more advanced prototype of which is widely used by jewelry craftsmen. To do this, you will need a durable container made of stable materials such as plexiglass or metal, the average volume of which will be about one glass (200-250 milliliters). The body of such a mini-burner itself is best made of brass, and shut-off valve It is not welded or screwed onto a thread, but rubbed in using a special paste.

As many have probably already guessed, we are talking about GOI paste. At the same time, before putting the spray burner into operation, you should definitely check the quality of the grinding and this is very simple to do. To do this, the brass body, together with the tap mounted on the GOI paste, is lowered into the water and the hole is plugged with a finger. After this, air is supplied to the workpiece by pumping the connected bulb and the presence of oxygen bubbles emanating from the joints is observed. If they are completely absent, it is concluded that the connection was made efficiently. In order to make it absolutely safe to attach the body to the vessel itself, a gasket must be used in this place to ensure complete tightness. The burner itself is also machined from brass, and in the absence of special auxiliary devices, its manufacture can be ordered from a qualified specialist.

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Gas gun from a blowtorch

The cold weather arrived and problems immediately began to arise about how to heat this or that room. When they approached me with a request to make heating for the workshop, I decided to take a different path - not to invent anything new, but to use an old blowtorch, so that in the future the owner could heat not only the workshop, but also nearby standing garage and a bathhouse.

First, I found a blowtorch.

All I needed from it was an ejector (this is where the flame burns) and an adjustment valve. To connect the hose from a gas cylinder, we make an adapter from copper tube, but remember that if you solder with tin or glue, this connection will last for several minutes, since the ejector can heat up to 1200 degrees. Therefore, it is better to solder using gas or welding.

With the diameter of the nozzle that was originally installed, it was not possible to start the burner, so the nozzle was drilled out by 1.5 mm.

Now you need to select a piece of pipe according to the diameter of the blowtorch outlet. Then use a grinder to saw along the holes along this pipe and insert 2 mm thick plates there. The length of the plates is 15-20 mm. and the width depends on the diameter of the gun body.

After the burner extension is ready, weld it to the lamp.
Now we assemble the body of the gas gun.

In my version, the diameter was selected according to the fan. I had to cut the freon cylinders. And so at one end of the case we have a folding fan. and on the other there is a hole for a gas burner extension with 3 holes for heat output, but if you plan to remove heat to one specific place, then weld a piece of pipe and put a corrugation on it. When the housing is ready, insert the extension cord into the housing and secure it with a clamp.

For ease of maintenance and ignition, I have a folding fan on a hinge. We set it on fire, wait for steady combustion and then put the fan in place.

The gas gun is ready, but as you understand, CO2 will be released during combustion, which is not good. And all my ideas are aimed at maximum safety. Therefore, the output of the gas gun is inserted into the firebox of the existing stove or, like mine, propane tank, which I decided to use instead of a stove and into which pipes can be welded, connected to each other with bends (rolls) and used as a water boiler.

I made this gas ejector gun to create a “Tashkent” in the room without suffocating from combustion products.

I think I succeeded.

Detailed photo and video instructions for making a burner using a blowtorch

Furnaces and boilers running on waste oil have long taken their rightful place among heating devices. Exhaust is a cheap and sometimes free type of fuel; it is often used for this purpose in car repair shops and garages. Many craftsmen, when choosing a design, ask the question: is it possible to convert a gasoline blowtorch into a burner for mining?

Is it possible to make a blowtorch work during mining?

The principle of operation of a conventional blowtorch is to ignite gasoline vapors, which are pushed out under the action of compressed air. This effect is achieved by pumping air into fuel tank burners.

What happens if you pour used oil into a blowtorch?

Oil itself, even under pressure, does not evaporate well - it needs to be heated. Due to poor atomization, the flame will be uneven and it will be difficult to ignite the burner. Oil burns with formation large quantity carbon deposits and soot, so the jet will quickly coke, its cross-section will decrease, and the lamp will fail. Increasing the cross-section of the nozzle will also not give the expected effect - the oil will be sprayed in large drops, which will not allow obtaining a uniform flame of the torch.

In addition, used oil often contains impurities: diesel fuel, gasoline, antifreeze and even water, which can lead to flashes inside the lamp. To use waste as fuel for a blowtorch, you will have to install a filtration system, which will further complicate the task.

Considering all the difficulties, using a gasoline blowtorch as a burner during mining is difficult and unsafe. Therefore, it is necessary to modify or completely change its design.

This article talks about the types of wood-burning stoves and how to make them yourself.
About the advantages and features of the design brick oven with a water circuit, read here: http://gidpopechkam.ru/pechki/kirpichnaya-vodyanym-konturom.html

How to make a burner for mining yourself

For successful combustion of oil, you must either preheat it to the evaporation temperature - approximately 300 degrees Celsius, or finely spray and enrich the oil vapor with air. You can heat the oil to such temperatures using powerful heating elements, but this will increase energy costs.
An oil aerosol can be created by applying a stream of compressed air through a layer of oil. This effect is realized in the Babington burner - a device, an analogue of which you can assemble with your own hands from available components.

Babington burner - an alternative to a blowtorch

The Babington burner was originally patented to run on diesel fuel. Later, having made minor changes to the design, the craftsmen changed the design with their own hands and adapted the burner for burning waste machine and food oils. The degree of oil contamination does not matter much, since the fuel channels of the unit are free of bottlenecks prone to blockages.

Unlike a blowtorch, where the fuel-air mixture is sprayed under pressure through nozzles, in a Babington burner oil is pumped from a reservoir using a low-power pump and flows in a thin film along an inclined or spherical surface, and the oil-air mixture is formed by blowing a thin jet of compressed air air through this film.

The spraying effect is clearly presented in the video:

    The Babington burner consists of several functional blocks:
  • Fuel - tank, pump and pipes for supplying fuel.
  • Air, it consists of a compressor and an air tube.
  • A hemisphere with a small diameter hole where the air stream mixes with oil.
  • A nozzle that directs the flame in the desired direction.
  • The standard design can be modified with your own hands, increasing its efficiency. To do this, the fuel tank is equipped with a heater that heats the oil before the burner starts operating, which makes it possible to increase its fluidity. In addition, a fuel channel made of a metal tube can be wrapped around the nozzle - this way the oil will heat up while the burner is operating.

    The burner nozzle is directed into the boiler, where the fuel chamber and water jacket are heated. You can also use the device to melt and heat metals.

    Advantages of a DIY Babington burner:

    • a wide selection of fuel - used machine oils, lubricants of any viscosity, diesel fuel, fuel oil, any vegetable oils, including food production waste;
    • the presence of impurities in the fuel;
    • simplicity of design - you can do it yourself.
    • difficulty setting up the burner, especially often when changing the type of fuel;
    • smell and dirt - the burner cannot be installed in residential premises, a boiler room is required;
    • The use of the burner involves an open flame, so fire safety precautions must be observed.

    There must be a powder or salt chemical fire extinguisher in the boiler room!

    DIY Babington burner

    You can assemble the burner yourself from simple components; for this you will need:

      • A hollow ball or hemisphere with such a wall thickness that you can drill a hole with a diameter of no more than 0.3 mm. You can use any metal objects similar configuration, for example, brass door handle spherical shape, nuts with plugs. The main condition is the possibility of reliable fastening of the air duct.

    • Metal tube for supplying compressed air from the compressor, diameter - 10-15 mm.
    • A compressor, for example, from a refrigerator, with an operating pressure of 2 atm, a maximum pressure of 4 atm.
    • Fuel tank with a built-in heating element of 0.5-1 kW made of non-corrosion metal.
    • Fuel sump and pipe to drain excess oil back into the tank.
    • Copper tube, diameter - 10 mm, wall thickness - 1-1.5 mm for the fuel channel.
    • Oil pump from a car or motorcycle with an electric motor to drive the pump. It is advisable to equip the pump with a filter with a large mesh at the inlet.
    • The nozzle is a 200-400 mm long nozzle with an external thread of 2 inches.
    • Crosspiece for two-inch metal pipe with internal thread.
    • A 1" threaded drain and a 2/1" adapter to drain excess fuel into the sump.
    • Adapters and fittings for connecting the fuel line, air duct and nozzle.

    Preparing burner components for assembly

      1. The main and most important task is to make a hole of a given diameter in a spherical nozzle. The power of the burner depends on its size. For example, a boiler with a thermal power of 10-15 kW requires a burning torch obtained by operating a burner with one hole with a diameter of 0.2-0.25 mm. To obtain more power, there is no need to expand the hole - this will lead to larger droplets. It is better to make 2-4 holes with a diameter of 0.1-0.3 mm with a distance between them of 8-10 mm, otherwise the torches will be mutually extinguished. Fuel consumption can be calculated as follows: through one hole of 0.25 mm, 2 liters of waste are sprayed per hour.

    Video about how you can make small diameter holes in a metal hemisphere:

      1. The tank is made of corrosion-resistant metal. A heating element is built into it with a thermostat set to turn off the heating element at a temperature of 70 degrees Celsius.
      2. It is necessary to make a fuel sump from the same material, equipped with a pipe with an overflow. Through this pipe, oil from the sump will flow back into the tank. To drain dirt from the sump, you can provide a plug in its bottom.

    • Assemble the burner body: connect the nozzle from the squeegee to the 2-inch cross in the front part, then adapters: from the top for oil supply, from the back side for air. From below, a 2/1-inch adapter and a squeegee are connected to the crosspiece, through which excess oil will drain into the sump. Adapters are made from plugs with drilled holes, into which the fuel and air channel tubes are inserted.

    The housing can also be made from a tee, in which case the air duct is inserted into top part, having previously drilled a hole of the required diameter.

    • The fuel path is made of a copper tube, one end of which is wound around the nozzle three times, and then led through a plug adapter into the housing at the top. The fuel pipe is connected to the pump, installed strainer rough cleaning and lead the other end of the tract into the tank. The fuel path can be equipped with a valve. The pump is connected to an electric motor operating from a 220 V network.

    • An air duct made of a metal tube is attached at one end to a hemisphere with a hole, having previously installed a plug adapter at the required distance. The hemisphere should be positioned so that the oil from the fuel tube evenly flows onto the rounded part of the nozzle, and then into the lower part of the housing and into the sump. The other part of the air duct is connected to a compressor, which is also connected to a 220 V network.
    • Since the installation will have as many as three consumers of electricity, which are not turned on simultaneously, it is advisable to equip the burner with a control panel: install a separate toggle switch or button to turn on the heating element and a separate toggle switch to turn on the compressor and pump. If desired, you can equip the remote control with a light signaling system made of diode lamps.
    • You can equip the burner with a controller that automatically turns on the units in accordance with the selected mode. Electric ignition is realized using spark plugs, and to extinguish the burner it is enough to turn off the oil supply.

    Video - burner assembly diagram:

    Preparing fuel for the burner

    Almost any waste oil can be used in a Babington burner. Automotive testing with big amount foreign inclusions are filtered before being poured into the tank through a mesh and mixed with cleaner oil. Oils with a small amount of impurities can be poured without preparation.

    When using food vegetable oils, for example, deep-frying, it is recommended to let it sit for several hours and carefully drain off the residue. These oils are quite fluid when normal temperature, so they can be heated in the tank only at the moment the burner starts. When using fuel oil and other thick materials, they must be heated to a temperature of 70 to 90 degrees, otherwise the pump will work with overload.

    In this article we consider in detail the entire process of making a potbelly stove. long burning: from arranging the foundation to making a chimney.
    The technology for safely disassembling a gas cylinder and then making a wood-burning potbelly stove from it can be found here
    Read about the pros and cons of a long-burning wood-burning stove made by yourself: http://gidpopechkam.ru/pechki/dlitelnogo-goreniya-na-drovax.html

    Security measures

      A burner using oils and other GSPs can be dangerous if installed and operated incorrectly. To avoid a fire, a number of measures must be observed:
  • floors and walls made of flammable materials are sheathed with metal or asbestos sheets;
  • fuel reserves are stored at a safe distance;
  • oil leaks must be removed in a timely manner;
  • electrical elements of the installation must be carefully insulated to avoid sparking in the oil spray area;
  • The burner should be placed out of reach air flow and drafts.
  • A burner with an open nozzle must not be left running unattended!

    The Babington burner, unlike a blowtorch converted to work in mining, is a reliable and durable unit that does not require complex maintenance. It is enough to periodically clean the fuel system, tank and sump, blow out the air duct in idle mode, and also monitor the serviceability of the compressor and oil pump. A working burner is a reliable and economical unit with long term services.

    Let's do gas gun based on a blowtorch

    With the arrival of cold weather, the issue of heating rooms became acute again. What to do when you need to heat a garage, warehouse, basement or any other room quickly and without hassle? One author has developed an interesting device for these purposes that allows you to quickly solve the problems. Conventional heat will be used as the basis for generating heat. blowtorch. Take a closer look at how you can assemble such a device with your own hands and forget about the cold.

    Materials and tools for making a cannon:
    — a blowtorch (preferably like the author’s);
    - drill with drills;
    - Bulgarian;
    - metal plates (thickness 2 mm, length 15-20 mm, and width depending on the size of the lid body);
    — welding;
    — refilling freon cylinders (to create a housing);
    — folding fan;
    - marker, ruler and other small things;
    - a piece of iron pipe (according to the diameter of the lamp ejector).

    Gun manufacturing process:

    Step one. Disassembling the lamp
    First you need to take a blowtorch and disassemble it. For homemade work, you only need an ejector, that is, a device that emits a flame. You will also need an adjustment valve. Next, in order to connect a hose to the ejector, you need to attach an adapter to it. The author makes it from a piece of copper tube. It is important to understand that during operation of the lamp the ejector will heat up to 1200 C, so it will not be possible to place the tube on the glue. At a minimum, you need to use a soldering iron for these purposes, but it is best to use gas or electric welding.

    Step two. Refinement of the ejector
    Now you will need to do a little work with the drill. The fact is that to start the burner, the diameter of the nozzle hole needs to be made larger. For these purposes, the jet must be drilled out with a 1.5 mm drill. To do this, it is turned out and clamped in a vice. The main thing is to make the hole clearly in the center, otherwise the burner will not work correctly.

    Step three. Making a burner extension
    Next, you need to find a piece of iron pipe; its diameter should be such that it fits the outlet of the blowtorch. Next, take a grinder and use it to make longitudinal slits in the pipe, then metal plates are inserted into these niches. The author has four of them. Welding is used to fix the plates. The thickness of the plates should be about 2 mm, the length about 20 mm, and the width depends on the diameter of the gun body cover.

    Step four: assembly and testing of the gun

    On final stage The extension for the burner is welded to the lamp. Next, you can begin assembling the body of the gas gun.
    To mount the fan, the author used a housing from a freon refill cylinder; it was the one that perfectly matched the diameter of the structure. As a result, the system will consist of two parts. One will have a fan, and the other will have a burner with an extension cord and three outlets warm air.

    If you need to remove heat to a specific place, then you can weld a piece of pipe to the structure and put a corrugation on it. After manufacturing the housing, an extension cord is inserted into it and secured with a clamp.

    That's all, the gas gun is ready, but it has one drawback: when it works, it emits carbon dioxide, which may pose a health hazard. In this regard, the output of the gun must be inserted into the stove or all this hot air must be driven through a conventional liquid cooling system, making minor modifications. According to the author, the device turned out to be quite simple and very effective.

    Homemade gas burner, do it yourself

    Design of a homemade gas burner

    The device of a homemade gas burner includes:

    • metal case;
    • gearbox;
    • nozzle;
    • fuel supply regulator;
    • head;
    • unit for securing a gas cylinder.

    The metal case includes a special glass, with the help of which the mechanism eliminates the possibility of blowing out the flame. This also includes a metal or other handle that does not exceed 100 centimeters. A wooden holder and a gas hose are installed on top of the handle. Using a reducer and a tube with a valve, the gas supply level and its length are adjusted accordingly. The nozzle is used to ignite the fuel, in in this case the last one is propane.

    Type of fuel the burner runs on

    As mentioned earlier, a gas burner is also called a propane burner. From this it is easy to conclude that, as a rule, propane or a mixture of propane and butane is used as fuel.

    With this fuel a special cylinder is filled. which is attached to the burner.

    Do-it-yourself gas burner production

    As you can understand from the list of elements of the entire design of the device, it is extremely simple and does not have any complex parts that require a lot of time.

    In order to make the unit with your own hands, it will take a little time and effort. And if you correctly study the material presented in this article, as well as approach the process with all seriousness and accuracy (since the work is carried out with flammable substances), then it will definitely be completed.

    As practice and many living examples show, on average, a person who has never created homemade gas burners, 40-45 minutes after reading the instructions, could already boast of a homemade burner.

    How to make a gas burner with your own hands

    Here we come to the very interesting process. For the manufacture of the burner. Below we will describe in detail the entire process of creating this unit, taking into account all the nuances and tips.

    So, you should start with the simplest, but no less interesting. From the manufacture of the burner handle. In principle, any material can be used. By the way, it would be more reasonable to simply use a ready-made handle from some old and unnecessary soldering iron. The supply tube is made exclusively of steel.

    Do not forget to pay great attention to the dimensions of all parts. For example, the diameter of the burner supply tube should not exceed one centimeter, and its thickness should fluctuate around 2 - 2.5 mm. This tube is inserted into the handle and fixed with glue or other quality material suitable for this purpose.

    The burner body, oddly enough, is also made of steel. It is best to use a brass rod, the width of which should be approximately 2 centimeters. The divider can also be made from it.

    Next, several holes are made in order to create circulation of oxygen in the unit. After all, as anyone knows: fire cannot exist without oxygen. The total number of such holes should be four: each with a diameter of about 1 millimeter. They are made in the very core of the burner divider.

    The next step is to forcefully press the divider, which was worked with a little earlier, into the body of the gas device. The inner flange must be installed with some clearance of about half a centimeter. With the help of this gap in the future, a huge flow of gas approaching the igniter will be slowed down.

    As mentioned earlier, the nozzle is used to supply fuel, namely propane, from its cylinder to the outside. To make it you should use special metal rod. Here you will need a 2mm drill to make a blind hole in the nozzle. For the jumper we will need a 4mm drill. The holes made are caulked with a hammer, and then sharpened using everyone’s favorite sandpaper.

    After this, a hose from the gearbox is mounted on the end of the tube, which must be made of special rubber and fabric material. Fastening occurs with a regular clamp using a standard screwdriver.

    After the mechanism, in your opinion, is correctly secured, you need to set optimal pressure in the cylinder and supply gas from it. The air from the hose should then be completely displaced. Fire length at correct location and the work of all parts should be about 40-50 mm.

    In general, as mentioned earlier, a homemade gas burner is quite unique means, which will come to the aid of any owner in any unpleasant everyday situations. And the maximum ease of its manufacture can only further attract all priorities to itself.

    Attention, TODAY only!


    With the arrival of cold weather, the issue of heating rooms became acute again. What to do when you need to heat a garage, warehouse, basement or any other room quickly and without hassle? One author has developed an interesting device for these purposes that allows you to quickly solve the problems. A conventional blowtorch will be used as the basis for generating heat. Take a closer look at how you can assemble such a device with your own hands and forget about the cold.

    Materials and tools for making a cannon:
    - blowtorch (preferably like the author’s);
    - drill with drills;
    - Bulgarian;
    - metal plates (thickness 2 mm, length 15-20 mm, and width depending on the size of the lid body);
    - welding;
    - refilling freon cylinders (to create a housing);
    - folding fan;
    - marker, ruler and other small things;
    - a piece of iron pipe (according to the diameter of the lamp ejector).


    Gun manufacturing process:

    Step one. Disassembling the lamp
    First you need to take a blowtorch and disassemble it. For homemade work, you only need an ejector, that is, a device that emits a flame. You will also need an adjustment valve. Next, in order to connect a hose to the ejector, you need to attach an adapter to it. The author makes it from a piece of copper tube. It is important to understand that during operation of the lamp the ejector will heat up to 1200 C, so it will not be possible to place the tube on the glue. At a minimum, you need to use a soldering iron for these purposes, but it is best to use gas or electric welding.


    Step two. Refinement of the ejector
    Now you will need to do a little work with the drill. The fact is that to start the burner, the diameter of the nozzle hole needs to be made larger. For these purposes, the jet must be drilled out with a 1.5 mm drill. To do this, it is turned out and clamped in a vice. The main thing is to make the hole clearly in the center, otherwise the burner will not work correctly.


    Step three. Making a burner extension
    Next, you need to find a piece of iron pipe; its diameter should be such that it fits the outlet of the blowtorch. Next, take a grinder and use it to make longitudinal slits in the pipe, then metal plates are inserted into these niches. The author has four of them. Welding is used to fix the plates. The thickness of the plates should be about 2 mm, the length about 20 mm, and the width depends on the diameter of the gun body cover.


    Step four: assembly and testing of the gun


    At the final stage, the burner extension is welded to the lamp. Next, you can begin assembling the body of the gas gun.
    To mount the fan, the author used a housing from a freon refill cylinder; it was the one that perfectly matched the diameter of the structure. As a result, the system will consist of two parts. One will have a fan, and the other will have a burner with an extension cord and three holes for the release of warm air.

    If you need to remove heat to a specific place, then you can weld a piece of pipe to the structure and put a corrugation on it. After manufacturing the housing, an extension cord is inserted into it and secured with a clamp.


    To make it easier to light the cannon, the author made the fan folding, that is, it is attached on a hinge. After setting the fire, you need to wait until the lamp begins to burn steadily, after which the fan is installed and turned on.

    That's all, the gas gun is ready, but it has one drawback: during its operation, carbon dioxide is released, which can pose a health hazard. In this regard, the output of the gun must be inserted into the stove or all this hot air must be driven through a conventional liquid cooling system, making minor modifications. According to the author, the device turned out to be quite simple and very effective.

    Furnaces and boilers running on waste oil have long taken their rightful place among heating appliances. Exhaust is a cheap and sometimes free type of fuel; it is often used for this purpose in car repair shops and garages. Many craftsmen, when choosing a design, ask the question: is it possible to convert a gasoline blowtorch into a burner for mining?

    The principle of operation of a conventional blowtorch is to ignite gasoline vapors, which are pushed out under the action of compressed air. This effect is achieved by forcing air into the burner fuel tank.

    What happens if you pour used oil into a blowtorch?

    Oil itself, even under pressure, does not evaporate well - it needs to be heated. Due to poor atomization, the flame will be uneven and it will be difficult to ignite the burner. The oil burns with the formation of a large amount of soot and soot, so the jet will quickly coke, its cross-section will decrease, and the lamp will fail. Increasing the cross-section of the nozzle will also not give the expected effect - the oil will be sprayed in large drops, which will not allow obtaining a uniform flame of the torch.

    In addition, used oil often contains impurities: diesel fuel, gasoline, antifreeze and even water, which can lead to flashes inside the lamp. To use waste as fuel for a blowtorch, you will have to install a filtration system, which will further complicate the task.

    Considering all the difficulties, using a gasoline blowtorch as a burner during mining is difficult and unsafe. Therefore, it is necessary to modify or completely change its design.

    How to make a burner for mining yourself

    For successful combustion of oil, you must either preheat it to the evaporation temperature - approximately 300 degrees Celsius, or finely spray and enrich the oil vapor with air. You can heat the oil to such temperatures using powerful heating elements, but this will increase energy costs.
    An oil aerosol can be created by applying a stream of compressed air through a layer of oil. This effect is realized in the Babington burner - a device, an analogue of which you can assemble with your own hands from available components.

    Babington burner - an alternative to a blowtorch

    The Babington burner was originally patented to run on diesel fuel. Later, having made minor changes to the design, the craftsmen changed the design with their own hands and adapted the burner for burning waste machine and food oils. The degree of oil contamination does not matter much, since the fuel channels of the unit are free of bottlenecks prone to blockages.

    Unlike a blowtorch, where the fuel-air mixture is sprayed under pressure through nozzles, in a Babington burner oil is pumped from a reservoir using a low-power pump and flows in a thin film along an inclined or spherical surface, and the oil-air mixture is formed by blowing a thin jet of compressed air air through this film.

    The spraying effect is clearly presented in the video:

      The Babington burner consists of several functional blocks:
    • Fuel - tank, pump and pipes for supplying fuel.
    • Air, it consists of a compressor and an air tube.
    • A hemisphere with a small diameter hole where the air stream mixes with oil.
    • A nozzle that directs the flame in the desired direction.

    The standard design can be modified with your own hands, increasing its efficiency. To do this, the fuel tank is equipped with a heater that heats the oil before the burner starts operating, which makes it possible to increase its fluidity. In addition, a fuel channel made of a metal tube can be wrapped around the nozzle - this way the oil will heat up while the burner is operating.

    The burner nozzle is directed into the boiler, where the fuel chamber and water jacket are heated. You can also use the device to melt and heat metals.

    Advantages of a DIY Babington burner:

    • a wide selection of fuel - used machine oils, lubricants of any viscosity, diesel fuel, fuel oil, any vegetable oils, including food production waste;
    • the presence of impurities in the fuel;
    • simplicity of design - you can do it yourself.

    Flaws:

    • difficulty setting up the burner, especially often when changing the type of fuel;
    • smell and dirt - the burner cannot be installed in residential premises, a boiler room is required;
    • The use of the burner involves an open flame, so fire safety precautions must be observed.
    There must be a powder or salt chemical fire extinguisher in the boiler room!

    DIY Babington burner

    You can assemble the burner yourself from simple components; for this you will need:

      • A hollow ball or hemisphere with such a wall thickness that you can drill a hole with a diameter of no more than 0.3 mm. You can use any metal objects of a similar configuration, for example, a spherical brass door handle, nuts with plugs. The main condition is the possibility of reliable fastening of the air duct.

    • Metal tube for supplying compressed air from the compressor, diameter - 10-15 mm.
    • A compressor, for example, from a refrigerator, with an operating pressure of 2 atm, a maximum pressure of 4 atm.
    • Fuel tank with a built-in heating element of 0.5-1 kW made of non-corrosion metal.
    • Fuel sump and pipe to drain excess oil back into the tank.
    • Copper tube, diameter - 10 mm, wall thickness - 1-1.5 mm for the fuel channel.
    • Oil pump from a car or motorcycle with an electric motor to drive the pump. It is advisable to equip the pump with a filter with a large mesh at the inlet.
    • The nozzle is a 200-400 mm long nozzle with an external thread of 2 inches.
    • Crosspiece for two-inch metal pipe with internal threads.
    • A 1" threaded drain and a 2/1" adapter to drain excess fuel into the sump.
    • Adapters and fittings for connecting the fuel line, air duct and nozzle.

    Preparing burner components for assembly

      1. The main and most important task is to make a hole of a given diameter in a spherical nozzle. The power of the burner depends on its size. For example, a boiler with a thermal power of 10-15 kW requires a burning torch obtained by operating a burner with one hole with a diameter of 0.2-0.25 mm. To obtain more power, there is no need to expand the hole - this will lead to larger droplets. It is better to make 2-4 holes with a diameter of 0.1-0.3 mm with a distance between them of 8-10 mm, otherwise the torches will be mutually extinguished. Fuel consumption can be calculated as follows: through one hole of 0.25 mm, 2 liters of waste are sprayed per hour.

    Video about how you can make small diameter holes in a metal hemisphere:

      1. The tank is made of corrosion-resistant metal. A heating element is built into it with a thermostat set to turn off the heating element at a temperature of 70 degrees Celsius.
      2. It is necessary to make a fuel sump from the same material, equipped with a pipe with an overflow. Through this pipe, oil from the sump will flow back into the tank. To drain dirt from the sump, you can provide a plug in its bottom.

    • Assemble the burner body: connect the nozzle from the squeegee to the 2-inch cross in the front part, then adapters: from the top for oil supply, from the back side for air. From below, a 2/1-inch adapter and a squeegee are connected to the crosspiece, through which excess oil will drain into the sump. The adapters are made of plugs with drilled holes into which the fuel and air channel tubes are inserted.

    The housing can also be made from a tee, in which the air duct is inserted into the upper part, having previously drilled a hole of the required diameter.

    • The fuel path is made of a copper tube, one end of which is wound around the nozzle three times, and then led through a plug adapter into the housing at the top. The fuel pipe is connected to the pump, a coarse strainer is installed and the other end of the pipe is inserted into the tank. The fuel path can be equipped with a valve. The pump is connected to an electric motor operating from a 220 V network.

    • An air duct made of a metal tube is attached at one end to a hemisphere with a hole, having previously installed a plug adapter at the required distance. The hemisphere should be positioned so that the oil from the fuel tube evenly flows onto the rounded part of the nozzle, and then into the lower part of the housing and into the sump. The other part of the air duct is connected to a compressor, which is also connected to a 220 V network.
    • Since the installation will have as many as three consumers of electricity, which are not turned on simultaneously, it is advisable to equip the burner with a control panel: install a separate toggle switch or button to turn on the heating element and a separate toggle switch to turn on the compressor and pump. If desired, you can equip the remote control with a light signaling system made of diode lamps.
    • You can equip the burner with a controller that automatically turns on the units in accordance with the selected mode. Electric ignition is realized using spark plugs, and to extinguish the burner it is enough to turn off the oil supply.

    Video - burner assembly diagram:

    Preparing fuel for the burner

    Almost any waste oil can be used in a Babington burner. Automotive waste with a large number of foreign inclusions is filtered before being poured into the tank through a mesh and mixed with cleaner oil. Oils with a small amount of impurities can be poured without preparation.

    When using edible vegetable oils, such as deep frying, it is recommended to let it sit for several hours and carefully drain off the residue. These oils are sufficiently fluid at normal temperatures, so they can be heated in the tank only when the burner is started. When using fuel oil and other thick materials, they must be heated to a temperature of 70 to 90 degrees, otherwise the pump will work with overload.

    Security measures

      A burner using oils and other GSPs can be dangerous if installed and operated incorrectly. To avoid a fire, a number of measures must be observed:
    • floors and walls made of flammable materials are sheathed with metal or asbestos sheets;
    • fuel reserves are stored at a safe distance;
    • oil leaks must be removed in a timely manner;
    • electrical elements of the installation must be carefully insulated to avoid sparking in the oil spray area;
    • The burner must be placed out of reach of air currents and drafts.
    A burner with an open nozzle must not be left running unattended!

    The Babington burner, unlike a blowtorch converted to work in mining, is a reliable and durable unit that does not require complex maintenance. It is enough to periodically clean the fuel system, tank and sump, blow out the air duct in idle mode, and also monitor the serviceability of the compressor and oil pump. A working burner is a reliable and economical unit with a long service life.



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