I will not separate roses to order (received at some point) and roses purchased ready-made and chosen by the gardener himself (still dormant or already blooming).
Looking at the catalogs of official sellers, many people have a legitimate question - why two roses of the same variety have different prices. This is where you need to learn to understand the categories of roses and the relationship between your capabilities, your experience and your desires.
In general, there are only three categories of roses. Europeans define them with the letters A, B and C, Americans 1, 1.1/2, 2 (this need not be particularly considered until, unfortunately, roses do not reach us from there). Category C is the lowest.
The rose must have at least two well-developed shoots, the thickness of a thin pencil. B – 3, A – 4-5. At the same time, the sizes of root systems vary accordingly.
Category A seedlings are extremely rare in our sale, and not from mass sellers. The reason is simple - the price of such seedlings is initially high, and it is not profitable for our resellers to supply such seedlings in large quantities.
For the most part, roses are supplied to our country in the OKS version. This is convenient for many reasons - this reduces the physical volume (weight) of supplies, reduces customs duties and makes it easier to pass sanitary control.
To increase the sales price, companies often purchase branded pots separately and OKS roses are sold in containers, like ZKS plants. Here you need to understand that in reality such roses are not ZKS. A ZKS plant is a plant not just planted in a container before sale, but grown in this container. Therefore, even if you bought a rose in a pot, be sure to check its entire root system after purchase. (This does not apply to gift roses from rooted cuttings, sold everywhere, although they should be replanted in normal soil if you want to admire their blooms longer)
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OKS roses are delivered to our country “dormant”; they are usually placed in winter storage in the producing country in the fall, for a couple of months. But as soon as the temperature rises a little, such roses begin to wake up in February. “Over there” they are planted in open ground at this time, but here we have to wait several months until the ground warms up enough. But, if possible, it is worth planting a dormant rose in the garden as early as possible if the ground is already being dug. Thus, she will begin to grow in the garden at the same time as her friends, already growing there.
When storage conditions until the moment of sale are poorly observed (due to various reasons, such as delays at customs or the lack of refrigeration chambers of the required volume from the seller), then buyers receive their pets already in a “frozen” state, dried out or, on the contrary, actively vegetating. Shipping wax, which is used to cover either only the tips or the entire length of the stems, in this case plays a disservice - under it, closing pockets of sores may appear, which would not exist if such a rose was planted in the ground.
Speaking of customs. I don’t want to scare anyone (I encountered this myself at this time). But this year, customs rules have been greatly tightened; absolutely all goods are checked. So no matter what happens in the spring there will be queues, which will not add health to future pink purchases.
To be continued...
ABOUT US
ABOUT OUR ROSES
We offer flowering three-year-old rose bushes in 10-liter containers .
Our roses are grafted onto R.canina - the most optimal rootstock for the Russian winter - and grown in the Yaroslavl region. Thereby, roses winter successfully and develop quickly.
Bushes ready for sale are in perfect condition, have several flower stalks, and the basal shoots of the current year that are forming (wen, milk shoots).
The container substrate is prepared with the addition of manure humus and loosening components. Of the fertilizers, in addition to organic matter, the main filling is present in the soil PG Mix with trace elements and magnesium sulfate. The soil surface can be mulched with cut straw. Container volume and supply of nutrients in the substrate enough for the full development and flowering of the bush until autumn without additional fertilizing, but with careful adherence to the watering regime.
In the "Catalogue" section you can choose roses from various groups, but most varieties belong to tea hybrids. Plants of this group are called aristocrats among roses for their exquisite aroma, size and charm of the flower at any stage of dissolution. The assortment also includes English roses, spray, floribunda climbing and scrubs . Since 2015, standard forms in 20-liter containers have been added to the catalog.
Flowering bushes are being sold. In exceptional cases, some specimens are issued on painted buds.
After purchasing, you can leave the roses in containers, placing them on the site according to your taste and desire, or plant them in a permanent place. The closed root system allows you to plant bushes throughout the year, incl. and in the summer heat. Our roses do not get sick when transplanted.
In 2015-2016, our seedlings participated in the Moscow International Festival of Gardens and Flowers "Moscow Flower Show". Flowering bushes were part of the composition “Do you want me to become a tea rose,” which won a silver medal in the “Art in the Garden” category.
A blooming rose seedling is a wonderful gift and an excellent solution for landscaping.
We deliberately do not grow roses in small containers, so as not to unnecessarily prune the rootstock. According to our observations, a rose with a short main root is doomed to form an inferior bush after planting in open ground. In addition, in small volumes, bushes quickly begin to starve, regardless of the frequency of fertilizing, and as a result, they take a long time to “recover” after replanting. We do not spoil the impression of seedlings with a closed root system, as such.
Roses with a closed root system do not require immediate planting; in good conditions they can be stored for a long time, even until next year. It is best to place pots of roses in a shady, windless place in the garden. To prevent the roots from overheating and drying out, it is advisable to dig the pots into the soil or sawdust.
Water rose seedlings regularly before planting. Spraying the leaves with plain water is also useful. If planting is delayed for more than 2-3 weeks, start feeding the seedlings weekly with liquid or soluble. What is needed is seedling fertilizers used for plants in pots. Specialized fertilizers for roses are not suitable for caring for seedlings. They are ideal for roses that are already planted in the ground, and if you pour such fertilizers into a container, you can accidentally burn the roots.
Preparing a rose seedling for planting in the ground
Before planting, to ensure the good quality of the rose, carefully remove the seedling from the pot. To simplify this task, some companies use a metal mesh liner. This is the best option, because the mesh allows you to see the condition of the roots without destroying the earthen coma.
The roots should penetrate the entire earthen ball and have fresh white roots. Such good seedlings do not require additional processing; they are only soaked in water for 1-2 hours before planting.
The metal mesh of rose seedlings does not need to be removed when planting in the ground. It decomposes itself in the soil in 1-2 years and does not interfere with the development of roots.
There are other packaging options, such as a cardboard insert. It also retains a lump, but determining the state of the roots in it is very problematic, especially if the roots have not yet grown through the walls. If you cannot examine the root system or doubt its quality, soak the seedling for several hours in a solution of a root formation stimulator. To obtain a solution, pour a sachet (10 g) of the stimulant into 7-8 liters of water and stir.
Immerse the rose roots in the solution directly in the container. If the container has a cardboard liner, you can remove the plastic pot and soak the rose seedling in the cardboard. Processing time is 2-3 hours.
The "Kornevin" solution for planting roses can be replaced with the "Epin" solution. Dilute 40 drops in 2 liters of water and pour the container well, placing it in a bucket. Leave in the solution for 2-3 hours.
Place to plant roses
A rose can grow in one place for decades, so it requires careful preparation.
Prepare the planting hole. Rose planting hole size 60x60, depth 50 cm. Leave the top fertile layer of soil next to the hole, remove the lower layers of soil. Soil for planting roses should be loose and fertile, so add humus or well-rotted sand, as well as 0.5 cups of double superphosphate to the soil from the top layer. Roses prefer neutral soil, so add additional additives to reduce the acidity of the soil: 1-2 cups wood or 1 cup. Mix all components thoroughly and fill the planting hole with the mixture.
If you dug a planting hole immediately before planting the rose, then fill the mixture in layers, compacting each layer so that after watering the soil does not settle too much.
At what depth should I plant a container rose?
After filling the hole, make a depression in the soil so that the upper part of the lump, when planting, is 5-7 cm below the edge of the hole. It is better to plant roses with a slight depression.
How to plant roses
Plant roses directly in a net or cardboard liner, but those parts of the liner where the roots have not yet sprouted can be carefully removed.
This will ensure air access to the root system, and the rose will take root better after planting.
Place the seedling in the prepared hole. Check again the depth level of the top of the earthen ball (5-7 cm) and pour the solution remaining after soaking into the hole.
Fill the hole with the remaining fertile mixture flush with the edge of the hole so that during rains excess rainwater does not fall into it and stagnate.
Water it. To water one rose seedling after planting, you need at least 8-10 liters of water to thoroughly wet all the soil in the planting hole.
After watering, check the planting level of the rose again. If necessary, adjust: either add soil, or, conversely, carefully pull the base of the bush so that the root collar is closer to the soil surface.
After watering, mulch the surface with peat to avoid the formation of a soil crust.
If the weather is hot, then for the first time after planting the roses should be shaded. The easiest way is to put small arcs and pull any on them.
Considering that roses are one of the most ancient and actively used shrubs in landscape design, the popularity and availability of which is growing every year, one could assume that all the nuances of planting/transplanting them have long been studied and tested. However, for most gardeners, it is precisely the determination of the timing of these procedures that remains an open problem today. Unpredictable natural disasters in recent years have increasingly called into question the recommendations of experienced rose growers (Teorina A.I.) that were relevant just recently and force rose lovers to approach the issue more creatively - taking into account the type of planting material and varietal characteristics, weather conditions and winter hardiness zones , characteristics of the site and even, oddly enough, accumulated experience.
An unspoken pattern has established itself in the gardening community: beginners prefer to plant roses in the spring, while experienced ones prefer to plant them in the fall. From the point of view of beginners, providing plants with sufficient watering and care in the spring is much easier than “adjusting” weather conditions in winter. And if we take into account that it is recommended to plant most shrubs during a period of relative dormancy, then rose seedlings entering the market in the fall in an actively vegetative and even flowering state cannot but cause concern. On the other hand, experienced flower growers are confident that autumn weather, with its relative warmth and humidity, stable soil temperature and rather cold nights, are optimal conditions for the survival of roses, and when buying seedlings with flowers, there is no chance of accidentally buying the wrong variety (in cases with unscrupulous sellers ). Assessing from the outside the positive and negative aspects of autumn planting, it should be noted that in the spring, planting material goes on sale mainly from storage or storage areas and its healthy condition is highly dependent on proper storage. In the fall, it is much easier to purchase healthy, high-quality seedlings, and after autumn planting, they usually begin to grow earlier in the spring and actively bloom, but only under the condition of a successful wintering, which, unfortunately, not all beginners can provide. Many gardeners, gaining experience from their own mistakes, try to plant roses in both spring and autumn, and then determine the appropriate option for themselves. But if your financial situation does not allow you to conduct such experiments, and your pride does not get along with the title of amateur and does not allow you to tolerate the death of seedlings, try to first delve into the theory, and then set the time for transition to practice.
First, you need to decide on the choice of planting material: with OKS or ZKS, “local” or “foreign” origin, etc. Seedlings with ZKS coming from nurseries can be planted at any time, since roses are sold during the active growing season and, with proper care, quickly take root. However, if there are doubts about the “quality” of the ACS, it is better to plant no later than August: seedlings with ACS planted in a container immediately before sale cannot be considered planting material with the ACS, so it will take longer and worse to take root. Although, on the other hand, even with “false” ZKS, seedlings before sale often suffer less from drying out roots than planting material with OKS. It is better to purchase rose seedlings of “local” origin in the fall, preferably from the sites of conscientious rose growers - this way it is more reliable to choose planting material and check its quality, and if you are lucky, you can get advice on the best time for planting. It is recommended to carefully examine “imported” seedlings purchased in the fall, which usually arrive in wax: if the buds have already begun to grow under the wax coating, it is better to postpone planting to spring. Western planting material is generally less winter-hardy than local vigorous plants, so for acclimatization it is strongly recommended to plant it in the spring, even in the south. By the way, it is advisable for novice gardeners to also pay attention to the flowering time of the selected varieties: roses that bloom only in the spring (wild species, park roses, etc.) are guaranteed to ripen by autumn and are better able to tolerate planting/transplanting from the beginning of autumn. Repeated flowering of remontant varieties is highly dependent on weather conditions and can sometimes be delayed until the end of autumn (in the south), as a result of which the ripening of shoots is delayed and the preparation of plants for winter is in question. If the weather and opportunities do not allow waiting for such plants to bloom, then when planting they need to be “forced” to prepare for winter - be sure to add potassium-phosphorus fertilizers to the planting holes and completely exclude nitrogen fertilizers.
Since “in practice” autumn begins at different times in different regions, when determining the timing of planting roses it is better to focus solely on weather conditions. Ideally, in the fall, planting should be done so that after it the roses have time to grow suction roots and smoothly transition into a dormant period, without throwing out young shoots. Rooting of roses occurs best at a soil temperature of 12–17 °C and lasts 3–4 weeks, and the transition to dormancy begins with the onset of the first frost and a drop in air temperature to minus 1–3 °C. September is considered to be the average time for autumn planting, but since in the north nature can “create optimal conditions” already in the summer, and in the south only by the end of autumn, in the first case you will have to hurry up with planting, and in the second, on the contrary, you will have to delay. Many gardeners, by the way, have become convinced in practice that in the north-west spring is generally better suited for rooting roses, with its more stable (compared to autumn) temperature and humidity, and in the south (Crimea, the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus) roses can be planted without fear even at the end of November. Please note: the rooting time of a seedling can be reduced and even accelerated by almost half if, before planting, its root system is kept for a day in a solution of a growth stimulant (kornevin, heteroauxin, etc.).
When choosing roses for planting in harsh climatic conditions, novice gardeners often pay attention to the winter hardiness characteristic, which determines in which zone (USDA zone) the plants can overwinter without shelter. In practice, unfortunately, these data are not always confirmed, but experienced flower growers claim that with properly carried out autumn planting and timely organized shelter, absolutely all varieties of roses, even weakly winter-hardy (climbing, hybrid tea, self-rooted specimens, etc.) They take root quite normally in conditions that are more severe than those indicated in the characteristics. Therefore, beginners who are unsure of the correct choice of varieties are strongly advised to pay special attention to preparing the plants they plant for wintering and organizing an air-dry shelter for them.
As a rule, the place for planting roses is chosen carefully: well-lit and preferably with a slope to the southeast or west - this way the soil under the plants will not overheat in the summer heat and will retain the necessary heat and moisture longer in the fall. Places located in lowlands, often flooded by meltwater, with heavy, poorly permeable soil and a high (above 1 m) groundwater level are not suitable for roses. In such areas, it is recommended to plant roses on high (40 cm) ridges and ensure drainage and rapid outflow of water. It is better to place plantings in groups, taking into account the organization of winter shelter for them: a place is left next to where they will be laid for the winter, and bush and hybrid tea plants are grouped so that they can be hidden under a common shelter. Naturally, the placement of roses should take into account the size of adult plants: a distance of at least 1 m is maintained between park and climbing roses, for hybrid teas and floribundas the required minimum is about 50 cm, and for low-growing patio and miniature roses 35–40 cm is sufficient. Please note: in regions with a harsh climate, it is recommended to plant roses more sparsely to ensure better soil heating and plant aeration to prevent fungal diseases. And it is better to place roses planted for cutting more closely - with a distance of 25 cm between plants in a row and 50 cm between rows - with this planting, the bushes stretch out a little and grow long flower stalks, although by autumn they stop growing in time and ripen normally. Professional rose experts, by the way, advise planting cut roses only in the fall, and standard roses only in the spring.
Since loose, nutritious loams with a slightly acidic reaction are considered the best soil for roses, 2–3 weeks before planting, poor soils are enriched with the addition of rotted manure (1 bucket for each plant), neutral soils are slightly acidified by adding peat, and leaf humus is added to highly acidic soils. It is advisable to “heavien” the quickly drying and freezing sandy soil of the site with weathered clay (up to 10 kg per bush), and lay a layer of it (5 – 7 cm) at the bottom of the planting hole. On heavy clay soils, it is better to plant roses on ridges with a nutrient soil mixture, but if the groundwater level allows, you can dig slightly larger planting holes, lay drainage at the bottom and plant the plants in nutrient soil with the addition of coarse sand (1/4 of the total volume of soil ). In absolutely all cases of autumn planting of roses, it is strongly recommended to apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (superphosphate, potassium sulfate, bone and dolomite meal, etc.), which will speed up the process. Ideally, the garden soil from the planting hole should be thoroughly and evenly mixed with additives, pour a bucket of humus into the bottom of the hole and dig to the depth of a spade bayonet, and then fill the hole halfway with the prepared soil mixture and water it so that it settles sufficiently before planting.
The dimensions of the planting hole are calculated depending on: for rooted and low-growing borders, 40x40x40 cm is enough, for bushes and parks - 50x50x50 cm, and for climbing plants, the depth of the hole should be at least 70 cm. In areas with heavy clay soil, all dimensions should be increased by 10 - 15 cm to eliminate the possibility of the root system protruding after the soil freezes. When calculating the depth, it is also necessary to take into account that seedlings of bush (English) and climbing roses during autumn planting are recommended to be planted 5 - 10 cm deeper than for other species.
During the day before planting, rose seedlings are kept in Kornevin's solution (or at least just in water), and on the day of planting they are pruned - the roots are shortened to 25 - 30 cm, the shoots - to 30 - 35 cm, and all leaves are cut off, and single unripe ones the stems are pinched, leaving “stumps” of no more than 1 cm. Please note: such pruning is gentle, since the main pruning, taking into account the characteristics of the species and variety, should be carried out only in the spring. Prepared seedlings for disease prevention are kept for 30 minutes in a solution of iron sulfate or potassium permanganate (3%), and their roots are dipped in a creamy clay mash (2 parts clay + 1 part mullein), after which they proceed directly to planting.
A pile of loose nutrient soil mixture is poured into a pre-prepared hole, onto which, carefully straightening the roots, the seedling is placed so that the grafting site is turned to the south and buried 1 - 2 cm below the soil level. Then gradually add the rest of the soil mixture, compact it slightly with your hands and at the same time form a hole around the bush. After planting, periodic watering is carried out at the rate of 10 - 20 liters per bush, and the next day - a control inspection: the grafting site should be 3 - 4 cm below the soil level (of course, this does not apply to bush and climbing specimens). If it turns out to be lower, the rose is carefully lifted with a pitchfork and soil is added, and if it is higher, the bush is buried and the hole is mulched with dry soil. In cool, cloudy and humid weather, the planted plants do not need to be earthed up, but if a sharp cold snap or (which is not much better) warming is expected, the bushes should be covered with earth to a height of 10–15 cm to protect them from freezing and drying out.
Further care for autumn rose plantings consists mainly of controlling the air temperature, since the need for frequent watering, as a rule, disappears. When the temperature drops to minus 5 - 7 °C, the rose bushes are covered with spruce branches and arched (U-shaped) wire frames are installed above them, which are covered with fiberglass or roofing felt and on top with plastic film. The minimum height of the frame should be 40 - 50 cm and, although in general its dimensions may vary depending on how many bushes will be under it, it is better not to save money here - the more air under the cover, the more successful the wintering of roses will be. At air temperatures of minus 10 °C and above (during periods of prolonged winter thaws), it is recommended to press the edges of the film loosely to the ground - this will prevent the shoots from drying out. In the spring, such cover is removed gradually, starting with ventilation, so as not to provoke the appearance of sunburn on the stems.
In cases where rose seedlings cannot be planted in a timely manner in the fall (they were purchased late, the weather has suddenly deteriorated, shoots have begun to actively grow), it is recommended to place them for winter storage at a temperature of 1 - 3 ° C in a greenhouse or basement, or, in extreme cases, put them in trench, which is organized at the highest point of the site. In the trench, the seedlings should be placed on a slope and sprinkled with soil up to half the stems, after which, when the soil begins to freeze, similarly cover with spruce branches and build an air-dry shelter. Please note: it is difficult to predict the outcome of such storage and the survival rate of overwintered seedlings, but late (at air temperatures closer to 0 °C) planting of roses on the site will definitely doom them to certain death.
If we take into account that for successful long-term cultivation of roses on the site, sooner or later you will still have to master the practice of air-dry shelter, then it is better to start planning rose gardens with this. And with proper preparation for winter and shelter, even novice gardeners will enjoy roses planted in the fall.
The rose is rightfully considered the queen among flowers. It is not only very beautiful, but also quite resistant to cold, which makes it possible to successfully decorate parks and gardens with it even in the difficult climatic conditions of Russia.
Rose seedlings in a container: main advantages
Anyone who decides to decorate their plot with roses is faced with the choice of which seedlings to choose. Today there are two main varieties:
- rose seedlings with a closed root system;
- seedlings with open root system
When purchasing plants with an open root system, they must be planted in the ground immediately. If this is not done in time, the seedlings may die. In this regard, rose seedlings in a container have an undeniable advantage. Not only do they not need to be planted immediately, but they can even be left to grow in a container, the main thing is that its size does not interfere with the growth of the root system. By replacing a simple shipping container with a beautiful pot or flowerpot, you can effectively decorate not only your garden plot, but also your veranda or balcony. Pots with flowers can be rearranged, changing the design to your liking.
If you still want to plant seedlings in the ground, then rose seedlings in a container have advantages here too. Unlike bare-rooted seedlings, they do not overdo it when transplanted, quickly adapt, continue to actively grow and bloom, delighting their owners with their beauty and aroma. Having planted such a seedling in the spring or early summer, by autumn you will receive a full-fledged bush that will meet the cold fully strengthened and easily survive the winter. In general, roses with a closed root system can be planted at any time during the warm season, and this is their main advantage.
How to plant rose seedlings with zks
Rose seedlings with ZKS can be planted as early as April, without waiting for ideal weather conditions. Before planting, you need to prepare the hole. Its size should be at least twice the size of the container itself. The walls of the hole must be well loosened. Next, the seedling is carefully removed from the container: to do this, use garden shears to cut the container on both sides, take the seedling so that the lump of earth does not fall apart, and place it in the hole.
The planting material should be placed in the hole so that the grafting site is 2 - 5 centimeters below ground level. The free space is filled with garden soil; you can add compost or special fertilizer. After planting is completed, the seedling is watered abundantly. Regular watering is especially important during the first few weeks. In order for the root system to be better supplied with moisture, it is worth making an earthen bank around the seedling; it will retain water, preventing it from spreading over the surface of the earth.
If the seedling is not planted immediately, but continues to grow in a container for some time, it is necessary to provide it with constant watering, since moisture from the container evaporates faster than from open ground. When watering, it is important to direct the water directly to the root part, avoiding getting on the leaves. Otherwise, unsightly spots may appear on them. Keep in mind that roses do not like shadows; choose well-lit areas for them.
How to choose rose seedlings with a closed root system
The stage of selecting seedlings is difficult to underestimate. It is the initial choice that determines whether the plants will delight you or will only bring you trouble and disappointment. When choosing rose seedlings with ZKS, it is important to pay attention to the following parameters:
- color;
- variety;
- condition of seedlings;
- place of purchase.
The color of future roses is usually indicated on the packaging of the seedlings; many have photographs. Color, like size, is a matter of taste. It is also worth choosing those flowers that will match the design of your site.
Not only the appearance of the plant, but also its “behavior,” characteristics of growth and care depend on the variety. Beginners are advised to choose unpretentious varieties; mistakes in care in this case will not lead to the death of the plant. It is also important to take into account the light regime, proximity to other plants and other features of a particular area.
In order for planting material to be guaranteed to take root, it must be in good condition. Inspect the shoots; they should have a healthy, viable appearance.
The place where plants are purchased is also important. You should not buy seedlings from unknown street sellers. This is fraught with the fact that you will not get the variety you wanted. In addition, only specialized nurseries can provide optimal conditions for seedlings, one of which is “Soul of Roses”. Here you will find more than 200 varieties of rose seedlings. When sold, each planting material is supplied with a label with a photo of future flowers and the exact name of the variety. In the nursery, the seedlings are professionally cared for, which guarantees quality and almost 100% survival rate.
