Cement sand mortar for laying aerated concrete blocks. Glue or solution? Which is better to use? How much does it cost to lay aerated concrete?

Construction from aerated concrete involves laying walls from blocks in compliance with a certain technology. the main task– what should aerated concrete blocks be placed on?

Let's consider the types of solutions, foam, mixtures and adhesives for laying gas blocks. Comparative analysis characteristics and properties will allow you to make right choice. You will find out which glue is better, how much is consumed, when and how to use it, cost different manufacturers+ tips for preparation and application.

In practice, several types of adhesive mixtures are used for laying aerated concrete. However popular options just two:

Cement-sand mortar for laying aerated concrete

Is it possible to lay aerated blocks on cement mortar?

The use of cement mortar for laying aerated concrete is not recommended for several reasons:

• seam thickness 10-12 mm;

• the composition of the solution is not constant;

• a long preparatory period, from sifting sand to kneading, which increases work time;

• significant dustiness of work;

• the appearance of cold bridges at the junction of the blocks, which means additional heat loss;

• difficulty when laying walls in winter. Because of the frost, the mixture must either be kneaded in small portions or constantly heated.

Note. Cement mortar justifies itself when laying aerated concrete blocks of the second category. When laid in a large layer, it allows you to fill the voids caused by the broken geometry of the block.

Adhesive for aerated concrete masonry

The main components of the glue (special adhesive mixtures or thin-layer mastics): cement, fine sand, polymer binders, modifying additives, the presence of which allows the solution not to harden at a temperature of -10°C.

Tool for applying glue to aerated concrete blocks

Appeared on the market new tool, which simplifies the application of the adhesive solution (controlled thickness of the adhesive layer when laying aerated concrete) - a special container, trowel-bucket or carriage for aerated concrete. These are different names for the same device.

Thanks to these devices, laying aerated concrete blocks is completed faster and with minimal glue consumption, and the cost of work is reduced.

Advantages of adhesive for gas blocks:

• the plasticity of the material and fine-grained filler (no more than 0.63 mm) allows a seam thickness of 2-3 mm to be achieved. Those. consumption is reduced by at least 4 times, and the thickness of the seam is reduced, which reduces the total area of ​​the joints and, as a result, eliminates the increase in heat loss through the seams;

• a bag of dry adhesive mixture (25 kg) requires only 5.5 liters of water. This means that the humidity of aerated concrete will not increase significantly;

• compound adhesive solution always the same, which allows for the same gluing performance;

• the mixture contains additives (anti-frost), giving it frost resistance and moisture resistance;

• glue can be used as putty. This eliminates the appearance of residues;

• amount of glue from ready mixture It’s easier to knead as much as you need for work;

• the presence of special winter adhesives for aerated concrete allows you to carry out work in the cold season;

• the glue is able to harden without shrinking.

The only conditional disadvantage of the glue is the setting time. The glue hardens in about 10 minutes. At the first stage, this can create certain difficulties for beginners.

How to use aerated concrete adhesive correctly

• keep warm (not lower than +5°C);

• knead warm water(up to +60°С);

• aerated concrete should not be covered with snow (in this case its humidity increases, which means the properties of the glue decrease);

• glue spatulas or carriages should be kept in warm water;

• Use containers only for glue, otherwise larger impurities may appear. This will not significantly affect the properties of the glue, but it will definitely affect the thickness of the layer (as a result, excess glue consumption).

As the main argument, adherents of the classic recipe for cement mortar cite the high cost of glue. Correctly and objectively, the adhesive mixture is more expensive. But if you take into account the consumption of aerated concrete adhesive per m3, it turns out that a bag of adhesive mixture is enough to lay 1 cubic meter of aerated concrete, and the “homemade” solution is only a third, then the cost overrun is obvious.

How to choose glue for gas blocks?

The solution to the issue is complicated by the significant variety of adhesive compositions on the market.

The easiest way to decide is to conduct small tests.

Test 1. Take several types of glue and glue two aerated concrete blocks with each. After a day, break the connection and look at the location of the break. If the fracture goes along the seam, this glue is not suitable for use. If partly along the seam, and partly the blocks themselves are deformed, then the use of such glue is questionable. If the seam remains intact, but the gas block is damaged, this is best glue for aerated concrete. This is the glue that should be preferred.

Test 2. Prepare for use 1 kg of each type of glue being tested. Fill identical containers with them. After hardening (24 hours), weigh. Preference should be given to glue from the container that weighs less. Low weight indicates that most of the moisture has gone, which means the mixture is less thermally conductive.

Anticipating a healthy dose of irony from readers, we note that testing several adhesives is, of course, troublesome and expensive. But it will be useful for those who have a couple of types of glue and don’t know which one to choose.

We will indicate those brands of adhesive for aerated concrete blocks that have been tested by professionals and have earned their approval.

Manufacturers and cost of aerated concrete adhesive

Today you can buy adhesive for aerated concrete in many online construction stores. Before placing an order, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the top three, by number positive feedback(the table shows manufacturers and average prices at the end of 2015)

As you can see, adhesives are presented in different price categories, despite approximately the same composition and purpose.

It is worth noting that a modern adhesive material has appeared for laying blocks from cellular concrete - .

Unique technology the use of foam allows you to make a very thin seam and eliminate cold seam bridges, along with incredible efficiency (1 cylinder = 1 cubic meter of masonry) and high adhesion.

The new product is still being treated with caution. Due to the lack of time-tested confirmation, manufacturers are limited to recommendations for the use of adhesive foam for internal self-sealing. load-bearing walls. IN European countries Foam is already actively used for laying blocks.

Material prepared for the website www.site

Adhesive consumption for aerated concrete

A 25 kg bag of dry mixture is dissolved in 5-6 liters of water, resulting in 18 liters of finished glue from the bag.

Consumption of glue (dry masonry mixture) for thin-seam masonry (seam 1-3 mm) per cubic meter. is 16-17 kg.

The lifespan of the finished adhesive mixture is 2-3 hours. The time for adjusting blocks after laying is 10-15 minutes.

The consumption of aerated concrete adhesive directly depends on the dimensions (the indicated calculation data are based on blocks 600 mm long and 300 mm high) and the quality of the aerated block surfaces (poor geometry, chips and defects increase consumption), as well as on the professionalism of the mason. Therefore, calculated values ​​may differ from actual ones. It is better to calculate with a reserve.

Formula for calculating glue consumption

P – consumption of dry glue mixture kg per cubic meter aerated concrete masonry;
L – length of aerated block (m);
H – height of aerated block (m);
d – seam thickness (mm);
1.4 – calculated value of dry mixture consumption for glue (kg/m2 with a layer thickness of 1 mm).

What affects the price of aerated concrete adhesive?

1. place of purchase ( retail store, wholesale warehouse, online store);
2. delivery (pickup);
3. purchase volume (pieces, wholesale);
4. brand awareness.

Technology for preparing adhesive for aerated concrete

Each manufacturer puts instructions for use on the packaging. But as general rules we indicate:

• the required volume of water is measured;

• the mixture is poured into water in small batches;

• mix with a mixer until a homogeneous mass is obtained for 5 minutes;

• the mass should “rest” for 5-10 minutes, during which time the polymer additives will open;

• mix the solution again;

• Stir the solution periodically during operation.

The optimal consistency of the glue is such that the teeth that appear on the surface after applying the glue with a notched trowel (comb) do not spread.

Advice. It is unacceptable to add water to the mixed adhesive solution during work, as this will reduce its adhesive properties. Therefore, you should prepare a small portion of glue, sufficient to work for half an hour.

When can you lay aerated concrete?

When deciding on the choice of adhesive for aerated concrete, you should remember that external factors also affect the adhesive ability of the glue. Many people are interested in whether it is possible to lay aerated concrete in winter, in frost, in rain, at what temperature, etc.

External factors:

• humidity environment . Laying walls made of aerated concrete must be done in dry time of the year. Then the glue will harden at the optimal speed. During rain, snow and strong wind- it is forbidden. Actually, it is also undesirable to work with dirty, wet and icy blocks;

• air temperature. The hotter it is, the faster the hardening process will occur, which can lead to shrinkage cracks. During the cold season, the glue will harden more slowly.

Advice. If you are laying blocks in winter, use summer glue to cover the container with glue and seal it with hot water.

How to correctly lay aerated concrete with glue

• block preparation. An aerated concrete block suitable for work must be of the proper size and free of contamination (dust, dirt, snow are not allowed). Excessive humidity block is also undesirable;

• the block is not moistened before applying the glue (!);

• to reduce glue consumption, applied to the surface aerated concrete block notched trowel or carriage;

• Excess glue is removed after hardening. They are cut off with a trowel (the exception is spreading glue over the front surface of the block).

Having thus compared adhesives for aerated concrete and a cement-sand mixture, one can draw a clear conclusion in favor of using ready-made adhesive solutions.

The blocks from which many people build houses today are elements of proper rectangular shape. Walls and foundations are built from these building materials. The blocks have enough good characteristics strength, hardness, as well as high thermal conductivity, durability, resistance to wear and moisture. There are several types of blocks. According to their purpose, they are divided into wall ones, for arranging the foundation and thermal insulation. By design, they are solid and have a cellular structure.

Many have already appreciated all the advantages of these materials, and people are concerned about such issues as laying blocks. This process is worth considering in great detail, because there are different types blocks, and each has its own installation rules.

Advantages of materials

Blocks have several serious advantages, and this has allowed them to become popular. Thus, we can highlight the high speed of construction. How larger size has building materials, the less time it will take for the construction process. Laying blocks according to special technology significantly reduces the volume of cement during work.

Geometrically correct, these materials allow maximum speed adjust the level. Even if there is the slightest distortion, it will be immediately noticeable. Another serious advantage is that even people who have no previous experience in building houses can build from these materials.

Disadvantages of construction

Not every block has a comfortable weight, and not every one is convenient during the installation process. Reinforced concrete products are almost impossible to use without lifting devices. But even aerated concrete, foam concrete and other elements are difficult to maintain on site. Most modern block building materials do not like exposure to moisture and cannot last long in the open air.

Preparing mortar for laying blocks

Construction solutions have many various features. Regardless of what exactly will be used throughout the masonry, the first row is laid strictly on cement-based sand mortar. It is easy to prepare: for 1 part of cement we take 3 clean sand.

The mixture for working with blocks must be stirred thoroughly. It is much more effective to use a concrete mixer, since it is very difficult to prepare a lot of solution by hand. To work with blocks, it is necessary to maintain uniform density throughout the entire time by stirring. First of all, pour into the mixer a small amount of water, and then all other elements are added. The components of the solution must be mixed for about two minutes. It is very important to remember that building mixtures for aerated concrete blocks, as well as any other building materials, must be used within two hours.

Mortar of sand and cement

Many developers traditionally use this mixture. Blocks planted on this type of solution are a guarantee of heat loss, even if it is small. Savings on adhesive mixtures in this case, if any, will be insignificant.

As for strength, it is the same in any case. If concrete blocks are laid using traditional mortar, the walls will have to be insulated. When glue is used, then the cost of insulation is not necessary.

How to prepare glue

First of all, water is poured into the bucket. Then the dry mixture is poured there. All this needs to be mixed using a drill. It is best to do this at low speeds.

The percentage of water and dry mixture may vary, depending on the manufacturer. To prevent the glue from hardening, it is better to make it in portions. You can check the correctness of preparation using a notched trowel. If the mixture for laying blocks is applied very easily, and also passes freely between the teeth, and the grooves do not merge, then everything is correct.

Features of laying gas silicate blocks

These products are used for the construction of external walls, various partitions, to fill in various frame buildings. The production of gas silicate is very high-tech, so this material has high strength characteristics, low thermal conductivity, low weight and excellent environmental friendliness.

Preparatory stage

Laying of gas silicate blocks is most often carried out on a strip foundation. Its depth should be approximately 1.8 m. Before proceeding to laying the first layer, waterproofing should be done.

Ruberoid or any other roll material can be fixed using a traditional cement-sand mortar, for the preparation of which cement and sand are mixed in a ratio of 1:3. Additionally, it is necessary to lay the solution on roofing felt. Then you can proceed directly to installation.

Necessary tools for laying blocks

So, you should prepare an electric drill, plastic buckets, trowels, a building level, as well as a mallet and a plane. You will also need a manual, or preferably an electric, saw, a square for marking work, a brush, a set of drills and a grater.

Popular installation methods

There are two methods by which gas silicate blocks can be laid. The first method is to use a traditional solution, the second is done using glue. The price of the solution is at least two times lower than the cost of adhesives.

However, in this case, cement-sand mortar is consumed 6 times more than glue. The thickness of the seam using mortar should be about 10-20 mm. This can trigger the appearance of “cold bridges”, and then the development of mold, mildew and condensation accumulation. That is why many people discovered adhesive compositions. With this material it is possible to reduce the thickness of the seam and at the same time significantly reduce heat loss.

The thickness of the adhesive layer should be only 2-3 mm, which will significantly increase the level of thermal insulation. If laying blocks with glue is done in winter, then you can find products with antifreeze substances on sale.

Technology

Because building block It has correct form, the process will not be difficult. But the first row should be placed very carefully. It is installed on the solution in order to level the surface as horizontally as possible. To improve adhesion, the blocks are moistened.

First, the blocks are laid in the corners, and then they are aligned along the guides. After this, the remaining elements are laid. Guides for external walls It's best to do this before starting work. Internal walls are laid from the sides.

The next layers can already be laid with glue. The composition is also applied to the ends. Excess glue does not rub off. It needs to be removed with a trowel. You can move on to the next row only after 2 hours. During this time, the glue should set and shrinkage will occur. The blocks are laid with an offset of 8 cm. Thus, the next rows after the first and each subsequent one must be offset. This will increase the rigidity of the structure. If it is necessary to level the block, this can be done using a mallet. Unevenness can be easily removed with a grater. If it is necessary to cut a block, then gas silicate lends itself well to the saw.

In the process, every fourth row must be reinforced - a row is grooved, and reinforcement is installed in the groove along the entire length. Next, the row must be filled with glue or mortar. performed using the same technology. There are no differences here.

Construction with ceramic elements

This block is a microporous stone, side faces which are corrugated. The size of one element is larger than traditional brick, which significantly reduces construction time.

Advantages and disadvantages

Among the advantages are high performance environmental friendliness and the ability to carry out work independently without inviting professionals. Ceramic blocks have high energy-saving characteristics throughout their entire service life. Also, these materials are characterized by high strength and non-flammability.

The disadvantages include the high price, as well as fragility during transportation. There is also a shortage of professional builders who actually know what laying ceramic blocks is.

Work technology

Before you begin the process, the first step is to waterproof the foundation. The mixture is applied across the entire width of the wall and try to prevent the formation of voids. The first block is laid from the corner. Use only for the first layer.

The process is greatly facilitated by the presence of tongue-and-groove joints on this building material. This helps secure the blocks on a vertical plane. For adjustment, use such a tool to eliminate chips and adjust the level. As you can see, laying blocks, whatever they may be, is not much different from working with bricks. The only difference is that the materials used for manufacturing are different.

How to build a house from expanded clay concrete

This building material has been used for more than half a century. The process of laying the walls of houses from this material is not particularly complicated. Even beginners can handle it, but it is necessary to take into account the features of expanded clay concrete and follow the technology.

Composition and types of data blocks

The materials are produced by pressing a mixture of expanded clay, as well as sand, water and cement. The building material is safe, environmentally friendly and ideal for walls. The blocks have a porous structure, they are lightweight and have high thermal insulation characteristics.

These elements may differ in shape and size - in most cases this depends on the specific manufacturer. Products intended for walls can be either solid or hollow. There are cavities too various forms and sizes, it all depends on the place of application.

Work technology

Masonry can be done different ways. The choice of the appropriate one depends on the required thickness, the presence of insulation, and the type of wall cladding. So, you can lay it in half a block, one element wide with dressing, 60 cm wide with dressing and voids, two walls. Whatever the method, you must strictly follow all the rules. The base part of the foundation should be as level as possible with waterproofing in two blocks.

The process of laying these building materials is not much different from all others. Here also the first block is laid from the corner. Right on waterproofing material lay a solution up to three centimeters thick. The position of the block must be strictly controlled according to the construction and water levels.

A cord is pulled between the blocks in the corners and the first row is laid along it. The process must be performed strictly on a solution of sand and cement. Next comes the second row with dressing and strict control along the vertical plane. The second and subsequent rows can be planted on adhesives.

Simultaneously with the masonry, it is necessary to carry out reinforcement of the external and internal walls. This procedure is carried out for every third or fourth row. For this, fittings with a diameter of 8-10 millimeters are most suitable. Sometimes you can use a grid instead. The reinforcement is laid in the grooves - they can be ready-made, or they will have to be made using a grinder. After laying the reinforcement, the groove is filled with cement mortar.

Conclusion

This is how you do it yourself. As you can see, it's really not that difficult. It is enough to strictly follow the technology, follow all the above recommendations, and then you will definitely succeed.

Aerated concrete structures have gained popularity recently among many construction companies. This is an affordable and easy way to build reliable home, garage or other necessary building. Do-it-yourself installation is not at all difficult to master, even for beginners. Knowing the intricacies of working with the material, the construction process will not cause any difficulties, and the result will last for many years.

A competent approach to choosing gas blocks is half the success of construction. The strength and thermal insulation qualities of the future building depend on this.

Aerated concrete blocks have advantages over other masonry materials. They have less weight due to their porous structure due to the characteristics of their composition. Essentially it is a mixture of sand, cement, lime and aluminum powder, with the addition of foaming plasticizers.

Selection Guide quality material includes selection taking into account the density of aerated blocks. In the documentation it is designated by the letter D. The trick is that with an increase in porosity, the thermal insulation properties increase, but the strength of aerated concrete suffers.

Based on the density indicators of aerated concrete blocks, there are:

• structural – D300 – D500;
• structural and thermal insulation – D500 – D900;
• thermal insulation – D900 – D

Based on these characteristics, the optimal solution for a specific type of work is selected. For example, for laying walls made of aerated blocks as part of a reliable and durable residential building, a value of at least D500 should be used.

Worth giving preference famous brands manufacturers of aerated concrete, since materials created by handicraft will not be able to ensure the proper quality of masonry of aerated concrete blocks.

The standard size of an aerated block is 62.5x25 cm. Its width may vary depending on the scope of application. Thus, the standard establishes the thickness of aerated concrete walls:

• façade walls, bearing structures– 37-40 cm;
• internal walls – 25 cm;
• light partitions – 10 cm.

Another important innovation that allows you to save building mixture, is a technology for the production of aerated concrete using a tongue-and-groove joining system. Such fastening will allow you to carry out operations with bricks yourself without the help of third parties.

Preparation of masonry mortar

IN budget option used for laying blocks cement mortar, prepared on your own with sand in a ratio of 1:3. Some experienced builders recommend adding a small amount of any plasticizer to the preparation instructions to ensure even mixing of the mixture.

Modern technologies have come up with a line of more reliable and digestible products, especially when used in winter. Ready masonry mixture is made from a number of innovative components that give the connection not only the necessary strength and reliability, but also frost resistance and a reduction in the thickness of the adhesive layer.

Adhesive for aerated concrete allows you to create an adhesive joint thickness of no more than 3 mm. This is important to prevent the formation of cold bridges, and thereby enhance the heat-saving properties of the structure.

However, it is preferable to install aerated concrete blocks in the first row using cement mortar, while laying blocks with polyurethane glue can be done in subsequent rows. Also, some craftsmen do not recommend using a ready-made composition for the construction of load-bearing walls.

How to place blocks correctly

Step-by-step installation instructions include the initial critical stage - laying the first rows, which in turn will determine the accuracy and quality of the entire structure. The gas blocks here must be perfectly matched to each other. The layout of the first row blocks looks something like this:

• Waterproofing the foundation using bituminous materials in two layers.
• Laying a layer of cement mortar at least 2 cm thick - ideally leveled using a level.
• Laying aerated concrete, starting from the highest corner. Important: the difference between the corners should not exceed 3 cm. Subsequent bricks are adjusted to the level of the first. Laying corner connections It is carried out with the tenon facing outward, for the further possibility of sanding off all the irregularities.
• After installing the blocks in the corners, laying marking devices to maintain the exact geometry of the row.
• Filling the row, adjusting if necessary using a rubber mallet.

Most often, the number of bricks in a row is not a multiple, so to obtain fractional parts, a special saw for aerated concrete with large teeth is used.

Important: the laying of internal load-bearing walls is carried out along with external ones, aerated blocks of equal thickness. Moreover, at the junction in external wall a third of the brick is cut into which it is inserted indoor unit coated with adhesive solution. In places where aerated concrete partitions are intended to be laid, flexible connections must be laid, secured with nails or embedded in the mortar.

After laying the first row, you need to wait a couple of hours before starting work. Laying aerated concrete blocks with your own hands continues with the obligatory grinding of each subsequent row with a special plane. This is necessary to create a more even surface and better fit of the blocks to each other. The amount of displacement between adjacent rows is allowed to be at least 8 cm. The finishing row of masonry for each floor is a reinforcing belt, which acts as a support for rafter system roof and stiffener for the entire wall structure.

Features of masonry in winter

The most appropriate period for laying and concreting walls is the warm season. If work is carried out in winter, a number of difficulties arise associated with heating construction materials. Since the water included in the adhesive solution instantly freezes at subzero temperatures, preventing the joint from gaining proper strength.

Laying at sub-zero temperatures Load-bearing walls made from aerated concrete blocks are made only at an average daily temperature of at least -5°C, in the absence of precipitation and prolonged freezing of the walls.

The technology for construction in winter is only possible when using winter adhesive for aerated concrete with anti-frost components. When mixing such a solution, only heated water is suitable, and the amount of the mixture should correspond to the volume required for 30 minutes of work.

When taking breaks in laying, it is not allowed to apply glue to the top row of blocks, in order to avoid icing of the composition, and the connection in such an area will be impossible. Don’t forget to cover the last row with plastic wrap.

For small buildings with an area of ​​up to 100 m2, it is allowed to carry out masonry work under a canopy installed over the entire floor. Thanks to the operation of heat guns, the inside will be maintained optimal temperature for laying aerated concrete.

To maintain the proper quality and technological characteristics of the material, it is important to arrange proper storage conditions. Thus, during long-term preservation of more than three weeks, aerated concrete is recommended to be left in its original packaging, which protects the bricks from the harmful effects of the external environment. The storage location can be either indoors or outdoors. Two weeks before direct use, remove the packaging and allow the blocks to dry from excess accumulated moisture.

General guidance and common mistakes

The key to the strength of a building is reinforcement. It is carried out independently when laying the first and every fourth row of aerated concrete. Installation reinforcing bars is carried out according to the following scheme:

• In the finished assembled row, parallel grooves are laid along the entire perimeter of the walls measuring 10x10 mm.
• The channels are thoroughly cleaned of dust.
• 1 or 2 metal rods of 8 mm in diameter are placed in the slots and filled with adhesive mortar or cement paste.
• The surface is thoroughly rubbed flush with the base.

wait Extra time There is no need for the solution to set; you can continue further construction with your own hands.

Additional reinforcement technology is also provided in places where window and door openings are laid. In this case, U-shaped blocks are used. A frame of 5 rods is installed in them and also filled with cement mortar.

One of the most common errors may be neglecting the insulation of brickwork. The fact is that aerated concrete has distinctive strength and a relatively low thermal conductivity coefficient. During additional construction of brick or concrete elements, for example, armored belts, some builders forget about laying insulation. As a result, condensation and mold may form in these places in the future.

The correct process of laying aerated concrete walls requires the fulfillment of a certain sequence of rules and requirements, one of which is the use of special construction adhesive for the installation of certain elements or structures made of aerated concrete. Also during masonry, local and encircling reinforcement of lintels, openings and the most loaded places of masonry is used.

Aerated concrete is produced according to dimensions approved by GOST 31360-2007, in the form of rectangular blocks with special tongue-and-groove locks for some brands, designed to simplify corner masonry.

The proven technology for laying gas blocks using construction adhesive is a quick and simple process. To build a block structure you will need the following building materials and tools:

1. Aerated blocks of the type and size whose characteristics are recommended by the project;
2. Dry adhesive mixture;
3. Level, wooden mallet, mooring and marker cord, plumb line;
4. A hacksaw or grinder for manually cutting blocks into custom sizes;
5. Construction bath for liquid glue;
6. Construction mixer for preparing mortar;
7. Nails, light hammer, trowel, spatula, perforator for chipping blocks;
8. Reinforcement Ø 10-12 cm;
9. A metal brush for cleaning blocks from dirt and excess mortar;

To save on construction glue, the first row of aerated concrete blocks can be laid on a regular cement-sand mortar, the remaining rows can be laid on glue to prevent the appearance of local cold bridges in the wall. Not recommended for use masonry mortar based on sand and cement for the entire house, since due to thick seams its consumption increases several times, while the strength remains at the same level. Also going down thermal insulation characteristics buildings, and cold bridges may appear between the seams and aerated concrete.

The first step in the process of laying aerated concrete blocks is to install aerated concrete beacons at the corners of the house foundation. Such beacons are necessary so that the straightness of the blocks can be checked using a cord stretched along them. To secure the cord to aerated concrete, it is wound around nails driven into a block or into a seam between aerated bricks at the height of the first row.

By density, aerated concrete products are:

1. Structural: density grade D 300-D 500;
2. Structural and thermal insulation: D 500-D 900;
3. Thermal insulation: D 900-D 1200.

Based on the density parameters, the optimal brand for each house project will be the one that provides the necessary strength, frost resistance, moisture resistance and heat resistance with the required wall thickness in a given climatic region. For middle zone RF grade D 500 and higher is recommended. The characteristics of gas blocks according to GOST 31360-2007 and GOST 31359-2007 are given in the table:

The standard dimensions of an aerated block are 625 x 250 mm, and the thickness of the product can be different, depending on the loads, for example:

1. The thickness of the blocks for facade and load-bearing walls is 370-400 mm;
2. Thickness for internal walls – 250 mm;
3. The thickness of light non-load-bearing partitions is 100 mm.

The tongue-and-groove fastening system allows products to be laid perfectly evenly even without construction skills.

Any masonry of aerated concrete blocks requires the installation of lintels - for windows and doors, between rooms and floors. Concrete lintels are poured on site and reinforced, and in some cases the lintel can be constructed on the ground. Since lintels are essentially a thermal bridge that contributes to the emergence of bridges and cold spots, they must be insulated separately. Mineral (basalt) wool or polystyrene foam 6-8 cm thick is used as insulation.

Masonry mortar

Ordinary sand-cement mortar with the addition of lime for laying aerated concrete products you can do it yourself. This solution is used selectively - to lay the lowest row, and for installing lintels. The proportions of the components are 1:3:3 (cement - sand - lime). The heat transfer coefficient of this composition is 0.8 W/(m K). To obtain a more uniform composition, any plasticizers can be added to the solution in a small volume.

For further work, buy a ready-made dry adhesive mixture with the addition of polystyrene foam, expanded clay, and perlite, which is prepared according to the instructions. The finished adhesive has much better heat resistance - 0.16 W/(m K). Construction adhesive must be applied to horizontal surfaces when using blocks with a tongue-and-groove system, and to vertical planes when laying aerated concrete with a smooth surface. The glue is applied with a special carriage or toothed trowel.

How to lay blocks correctly

The step-by-step masonry technology begins with the removal of the first row, which is laid from the corner fragments formed from 3-4 blocks. Installation of the first row is carried out as follows:

1. The upper part of the foundation is covered with 2-3 layers of waterproofing made of bitumen or tar;
2. A cement-sand-lime mortar 2 cm thick is applied to the bitumen. The solution must be accurately leveled to minimize deviations and errors when laying blocks;
3. Subsequent wall laying is carried out starting from the highest point of any corner. Corner gas bricks must have a tongue-and-groove system and be laid with the tenon facing up. Then a cord is stretched between the corners, along which the walls are laid with adhesive mortar;
4. Some features of the masonry: the blocks should be leveled and placed into the solution with light blows of a rubber or wooden mallet, the thickness of the adhesive solution should not exceed 3-4 mm.

For sawing blocks, use a regular hand saw woodworking or grinder.

The internal walls on which the floors will rest are made the same width as the external ones and laid together with them. At the joint in the outer wall, 1/3 of the block is removed with a hacksaw, and the block is inserted into this opening interior wall. The joints are mounted with construction adhesive. Joining of internal load-bearing walls and internal partitions strengthened with flexible connections - nails embedded in the solution, or driven into the wall.

The second row can be laid only 3-4 hours after laying the first row. Each finished row is sanded using a special plane so as not to increase the thickness of the adhesive solution to minimize the straightness and evenness of the rows in all directions. Displacement error between adjacent rows ≤ 8 mm. Every 3-4 rows, girdle reinforcement is applied to the top row. To do this, one or two grooves are made along the entire perimeter of the row (depending on the thickness of the wall), into which a rod Ø 12-14 mm is placed. The reinforcement should be 5 cm away from the edges of the gas brick. The last row, as well as rows above window and door lintels must also be reinforced.

Additional reinforcement of walls using U-shaped blocks (if it is not possible to make lintels) is recommended to be carried out above window and doorways. A reinforced frame of five rods is mounted into such a block, which is filled with a regular, not adhesive, solution.

Features of masonry

At winter construction houses made of aerated concrete blocks, laying on a regular mortar and a standard glue composition is allowed only up to -5 0 C, since the water in the glue quickly freezes and the strength of the seam decreases, and a lot of energy is spent on heating the workplace or all building materials. It is not allowed to build aerated concrete walls in rain, snow or when the walls freeze for a long time immediately after a thaw.

IN cold period special winter adhesive for aerated concrete is used, which contains anti-frost additives. In this case, the first row will also have to be laid with the same glue, and not with ordinary cement mortar, which will make construction more expensive. Winter glue must be mixed in warm water and in a volume sufficient for only 30 minutes of work. Do not leave applied glue on for a long time in the cold, as the solution will freeze and adhesion will deteriorate. The last top row must be covered with waterproofing material.

For low-rise and small houses with total area with an area of ​​up to 100 m2, you can organize a canopy to protect the construction site from precipitation and wind. When erecting a canopy, the site can be heated with heat guns and masonry can be continued at any temperature. If the material is purchased in advance, it must be stored in appropriate conditions, in original packaging and at a positive room temperature.

Laying aerated concrete blocks updated: January 15, 2017 by: Artyom

One of the main differences between a foundation for a brick wall and a gas block is its depth. In the first case, you need to make a very deep ditch, because the mass of the wall will be large. On average, to build a house you need to go deeper by 150-170 centimeters so that there is no subsidence and the walls do not blur anywhere. In case of use innovative materials the procedure for preparing the base is simplified - 120 centimeters is enough, sometimes less, depending on the number of floors and the thickness of the wall of the future building. Mass 1 cubic meter 25-30% less, due to which the pressure on the soil is minimal.

It is also worth taking into account the strength indicators, when correct reinforcement aerated blocks they will be 50% stronger than a regular wall. This reduces the risk of subsidence and cracking, the result is the ability to fill the foundation another 20-25 centimeters shallower.

As for the composition, it can be left unchanged, pour a 1:3 mixture with sand and crushed stone, and use M500 cement. The thickness of the foundation is very important point. It must correspond to the thickness of the future block, a deviation of 25% is allowed (for example, for a masonry width of 30 centimeters, the foundation must be at least 23-25 ​​cm).

Installing the first row on the foundation

The quality of the entire structure and the amount of money you spend on its construction will depend on how “beautifully” you lay it. And this is without exaggeration. A deviation of just a few degrees in the first row can cost you thousands of rubles spent on Consumables, more precisely, on assembly adhesive for masonry, which you will spend tens of times more. Let's consider detailed instructions on installation.

Step 1 Level the foundation.

Here we take a grinder and remove all the pebbles, “bloopers” of the solution and other possible irregularities that we got after removing the formwork. You can trim the edges, remove the corners a little. In general, do any operations you like that will lead to the absolute evenness of the base as much as possible.

Step 2 We put the first row.

We apply 2-3 centimeters of solution, and a strong one (1:2 on sand and M600 grade) so that it has minimal subsidence. We level it with a trowel and carefully place several blocks, first leveling them according to the hydraulic level. Then we lay 3-4 more pieces, trim them again, do this until the end of the row, let them “simmer” for 10-12 minutes.

Step 3 Alignment.

It is necessary to level left and right, but this is not the master’s primary task. The most a big problem– top level alignment. In order to do everything accurately, you need to take a high-quality level, you can use laser devices. Set the entire row to 0 so that the outer blocks are at the same level, then pull up all the rest to their mark. This can be done by adding or removing a layer of solution.

Measure 10 times so that the blocks are completely lined up. This will not be difficult to do, since their dimensions are very accurate (deviation no more than 1-2 mm), unlike foam concrete, where an error of 1-2 centimeters is allowed. The first row of aerated block masonry can be considered complete; all that remains is to make reinforcement on top of it, which we will consider in the next section.

Do-it-yourself gas block laying

We figured out how to lay out the first row of aerated concrete blocks, now we move on to the construction of the entire structure. This process requires some preparation and special tool, simply applying glue with a trowel will not work - the layer will be uneven, and overspending will hit your pocket hard. The first thing you need to do is buy a special dispenser bucket. It allows apply construction adhesive up to 2 mm thick - there is no point anymore. Next, you need to buy the “cement” itself. There’s not much to choose from here, you just need to buy a few bags from famous manufacturer, their composition is not much different and is absolutely suitable for working with any blocks.

The next step is the purchase of fittings. You can use twigs with a diameter of 5-6 millimeters and make a mesh out of them, but most builders prefer thick reinforcement with a diameter of 12-16 mm for connecting blocks. For cutting blocks and fitting exact dimensions you need to stock up on a saw, and a mandatory requirement for it is carbide teeth. When compacting the block, you will need to use a heavy rubber hammer (200-280 g), as well as a grater with large teeth to smooth out the seams and polish the cut. And don’t forget about the wall chaser - the work won’t work without it. Let's consider step by step instructions how to lay a gas block correctly.

Step 1 Let's start laying blocks.

Essentially the process is very similar to brickwork. We need to make a “binding” so that the seams do not fall into one row, as in conventional house construction. The connection between the rows is made by laying a “half” in the corner and then displacing the whole aerated concrete. We mark the half with a pencil, cut it off with a saw, and polish the cut with a grater. Then we spread a layer of glue with a ladle (it should be thick, as with) 2-3 mm, glue the building material and compact it with a hammer. We continue to do this until the end of the row.

Step 2 Laying reinforcement.

This process is a little different from normal house or garage construction. Before laying the gas block, your task is to make grooves in order to completely hide the fittings flush in the block. It must not protrude from above, as the glue must cover it and not disturb the level. Using a hand wall chaser we make 2 grooves (mark the place with a pencil for the ruler), then put the reinforcement in it (it can be cut or welded