DIY concrete trays for ditch. Storm drainage at home: trays, wells, pipes, do-it-yourself installation

Drainage system – suitable option where it is necessary to drain the area and remove excess water from it.

Construction and installation of drainage systems on suburban area

When is drainage done?

Drainage installation on the site is required in the following cases:

  1. Soil is being washed away in the area. As a result, voids appear under the tiles on the paths; ditches in the garden.
  2. Soil heaving occurs. When the soil expands, it pushes out the buried soil, which deforms the paths. Cracks may appear on the walls, and distortions may appear on the doors and windows.
  3. The soil is becoming swampy. Water remaining on the surface forms mud and puddles. Plants wither and appearance the landscape is deteriorating.
  4. Cellars and basements are flooded. They contain constant humidity, mold appears, and materials (especially wood) become deformed.

Creating a Project

The quality of the design determines how effective the drainage communications will be. The design of drainage systems takes into account the following points:

  • The degree of susceptibility of soil-forming rocks to soil leaching;
  • The permeability value of some types of soil;
  • Presence of tectonic deformations;
  • Structure groundwater;
  • Location and power of sources feeding ground flows.

Project drainage system takes into account the following rules:

  • The slope from the top of the pipe to the drainage devices is 0.5-0.7%;
  • The system contains means for monitoring the operation of drainage and flushing devices;
  • The lower part of the pipe is installed 20 cm below the location point located next to the house).

When creating drainage, it is necessary to organize high-quality moisture removal. The role of water intake is performed by ditches along the road, ravines, rivers, and sewer structures.

Measuring the depth to install drainage around the garden area

The drainage system of the site is installed below the level at which ground streams flow. It is impossible to take measurements yourself, without using geodetic tools. It is advisable to contact professional hydrogeologists who will measure the depth and create detailed plan soil, indicating the depth of groundwater flow.

If drainage is at plot of land required not to protect the foundation of the house from washing out, but to create conditions for vegetation, a simplified method of measuring depth is used. On mineral soil channels are installed at a depth of 0.6 - 1.5 m. For garden plants and lawns - up to 0.8 m, for forest, tall plants- up to 0.9 m, for trees - up to 1.2 - 1.5 m. For a peat base, the depth of the ditches is 1 - 1.6 m, because peat tends to settle.

Types of pipes

Trench for laying drainage pipe

To create drainage structure perforated pipes are used, with holes located on them measuring 2-5 mm. About 40 years ago, the drainage pipeline was built from ceramics or asbestos cement. But the products immediately failed - the pipes had to be constantly washed so that no dirt remained inside.

A polymer pipe is a design made taking into account all technical nuances. The pipe diameter is 50 - 200 mm, and some varieties are equipped with a filter mechanism that protects the drainage openings from clogging.

Creating proper site drainage with your own hands according to the project

Installation of a drainage system deep type is done as follows:

  1. Channels 0.4 m wide are dug (how to determine the depth is written above);
  2. The channels are alternately filled with sand and crushed stone;
  3. On this basis, a drainage pipeline is installed;
  4. The structure is filled with crushed stone and sand, while still half the depth of the channel remains;
  5. The trench is filled with loam of a dense structure;
  6. The last layer is fertile soil.

Before last layer sometimes geotextiles are laid so that the layers do not mix.

Inspection wells with open drainage

To control drainage and to clean the pipeline, the design creates inspection wells(round or rectangular). They are executed from reinforced concrete rings. If the drainage system on the site is located at least 3 m, PVC pipes (with a smooth or corrugated surface) with a diameter of 0.3 - 0.5 m are used. Wells do not require tightness and waterproofing, since their function is to control water streams and supplying water under pressure to clean the pipeline.

The gaps between the wells do not exceed 50 m. In a high-quality structure, the wells are also located at the bends of the canals.

After installing drainage, if construction is carried out correctly, it is not visible on the surface and does not interfere with other objects. By draining the area, it catalyzes the growth of vegetation and prevents waterlogging and washout of the soil under the foundation.

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Common mistakes when creating drainage:

  • The use of pipes that are not suitable for the given soil. As a result, the pipeline becomes clogged. An example of an incorrect combination: no filter for clay soil;
  • Installation of the pipeline directly into the ground, without arranging bedding for filtration;
  • Creation of incorrect slopes and irregular water intake from the well shaft;

Proper drainage systems for draining groundwater are a guarantee of long service life for building materials, the foundation of dacha buildings and dense vegetation. Drainage of the site must be carried out in accordance with all SNIP rules so that the structure is as efficient as possible!

What leads to the destruction of foundations and road surfaces? Learn about installing drainage trays with your own hands and the problem will be solved! Types of trays and their purpose. Installation instructions. All installation features. You can find out about all this in our article!

Large amounts of rainfall and melted snow lead to water accumulation. Which leads to the destruction of foundations and road surfaces.

To eliminate this problem, the installation of drainage trays is used. Read below on how to install drainage trays with your own hands.

Drainage trays have several types:

  • Sewage
  • Box-shaped
  • Slotted
  • Curb

Waste tray has a rectilinear shape with a groove along its entire length. Designed for surface drainage water.


Box tray
U-shaped with grating, also used on surfaces.

Slot tray has a gap along the entire outer length; it can be intermittent or the entire length of the product. Good analogue box trays.

Border tray- a type of slot tray that has a protrusion in the shape of the letter “L” in its upper part to cover the gap in the gutter body.

All drainage trays are made from different materials:

  1. Metal
  2. Cast iron
  3. Plastic
  4. Reinforced concrete

For each type of drainage system, it is worth using a specific material.


Polymer is well suited for roofs; it is lightweight and durable. For surfaces experiencing heavy loads, cast iron, metal. Concrete is often used for roads.

All types of trays are manufactured according to European standards, as well as GOST.

Point drainage

Point drainage should be installed in problem areas. The main purpose is local water collection.

This method is an excellent addition to linear drainage. The walls of the tray have pipe connections. Using two systems, ideal drainage is achieved.

This drainage system fits well into flat terrain. Where there is no localization of water. Water will flow over the entire area.

It is better to make a conclusion to the sewer. The sand trap will stop small pebbles and debris. The grill will protect against large debris.

Drainage trays are laid on the sides of the covering. This will help protect concrete or tiled paths on the site.

When installing, it is necessary to maintain a slope of no more than 5 degrees. Water should flow freely down the gutter.


Surface drainage requires design.

Pay special attention to:

  • Determining the drainage system
  • Layout of canals, care points and water discharge points
  • Quantity of material

All these tasks are solved taking into account several important points:

  1. soil type;
  2. type of surface;
  3. groundwater level;
  4. layout diagram various buildings, structures, paths, flower beds;
  5. frequency and intensity of precipitation.

Hard soil allows moisture to pass through in small quantities; additional channels will be required. Clay soil promotes waterlogging and requires underground drainage. If there is a difference in the height of the area, additional sleeves will be required.

Do-it-yourself installation of drainage trays

Integrated drainage includes:

  • roof drainage system;
  • surface drainage;
  • internal water drainage;
  • groundwater drainage system;
  • drainage ditches.


In other words, a comprehensive drainage system consists of all water collection systems. This option will help avoid any issues related to the accumulation of sediment. Eliminates the formation of puddles, ice, swamps, preserves the foundation, etc.

In order to independently install drainage trays from any material, you will need to dig a trench according to the markings. Markings can be made using twine and stakes.

All plastic trays must be concreted. Otherwise, in winter the soil will squeeze them out and they will crack.


The trench should be wider than the tray. Crushed stone and sand should be poured into the finished ditch. Place a tray on top.

The products are hermetically connected to each other. Cement mortar the walls are strengthened. The solution is allowed to dry from 48 to 72 hours.

It is better to install the grilles right away. During the hardening process, the cement expands and can compress the tray, as a result the grate will not fit tightly. And the tray itself may become deformed.

When the cement hardens, the remaining voids are filled with soil. Slightly above the level of the tray. The mound will settle over time. Be sure to place a sand trap on one side and a side cap on the other. For plastic products, treat the joints with sealant.

This installation of drainage is suitable for trays made of any material. Concrete drainage trays can be installed without concreting. They are heavy enough to bear the load. This only applies to installation in the private sector, on personal plot, in areas where there is no heavy load.


Slot trays are ideal for installation between paving slabs, in all places where it is good to maintain an aesthetic appearance and avoid conspicuous holes on the surface.

The peculiarity of slotted trays is that they are installed under the covering. Also, do not forget that a certain slope of the surface towards the slot is required for good water drainage.

Roof drainage systems are installed from polymer or metal trays. Their installation requires special fasteners. It is better to collect on a horizontal surface. Installation should be carried out by at least two people.

Plastic drainage trays (for roofing and horizontal surfaces) should be assembled before installation.

The joints are treated with sealant. The trench should be wider than the tray.
If there is a grating, install it before concreting. All trays are mounted on a foundation pad made of sand and crushed stone.


Any types of trays are installed on a slope. The material for the drainage system is selected in accordance with its purpose.

A sand trap is always installed. The system must be cleaned once a year.

Any type of drainage system is installed 5mm below the surface level. Drainage trays installed by yourself will do the job perfectly. Increase service life road surface, foundation and will save the earth from oversaturation with moisture.

Some construction technologies do not involve any complex actions and can be successfully performed independently. Thus, filling the foundation with a gasoline pump, despite certain features, can be done quite easily, without the use of large physical costs. This will be helped by installing a special chute through which concrete will be delivered to the desired part of the foundation.

The construction of a gutter will not only avoid manual labor using shovels, but will also significantly speed up the construction process.

In addition, there are other advantages that determine the role of the structure when pouring the foundation as the main one. To understand this, we should consider how it is carried out. This happens using the following technology:

  1. The mixer delivers the concrete mixture into a chute, through which it enters the formwork of the future foundation.
  2. After delivery to the formwork, the more liquid concrete mixture spreads on its own; the level of thick concrete is adjusted with your own hands using shovels.
  3. As parts of the formwork are filled, the mixer and chute are moved to another area, where the next filling takes place. In order for concreting to take place as quickly and efficiently as possible, it is necessary to ensure free access to all areas of the future foundation. If this is difficult to achieve, it is necessary to make the gutter design of such a length that the solution can be delivered to any part of the formwork. In this case, the process will proceed correctly.

A self-made structure that delivers concrete to the place where the formwork is being erected country house, will allow to distribute concrete mortar in accordance with concreting rules. According to them, pouring the foundation with a concrete pump should not be carried out in small portions, which is inevitable if the manipulations are carried out manually. IN in this case there is a risk of joining seams, in which the curing of the concrete solution will not be of high quality and threatens with a completely unsatisfactory result of the work performed.

Preparing to make a gutter

When manufacturing a device for transporting concrete, the following must be taken into account:

  1. The structure must connect the concrete mixer container with the formwork of the future foundation.
  2. It must be at a certain angle, which will allow the mixture to flow freely under the influence of its own weight into right place.

To make the structure you will need the following tools:

  1. Hacksaw or saw.
  2. Measuring tape.
  3. Bulgarian.
  4. Hammer.
  5. Square.
  6. Screwdriver.

Materials to be prepared:

  1. Edged board 25x120 mm.
  2. Nails or screws.
  3. Linoleum, tin or plastic film.
  4. Blocks or timber for supports.

In addition, when starting the manufacturing process, you should take into account several basic rules that impose special requirements on devices of this type. Thus, the manufactured gutter along its entire length must have a constant level of slope. If the slope decreases, passing concrete mixture may slow down, after which this will lead to clogging or premature hardening of the concrete. If the slope of the device, on the contrary, increases and pouring begins to take place faster, the concrete solution may disintegrate into separate parts, which will inevitably lead to a deterioration in the quality of the mixture. The foundation base will lose its reliability and will be short-lived.

When creating a gutter, the level of its taper should be calculated based on the degree of delivery distance of concrete, as well as its consistency. Liquid mixtures that the mixer delivers over short distances allow for small slopes. If the mixtures are quite thick or are supplied over significant distances, then the gutters should be as steep as possible.

The preservation of the homogeneity of the concrete mixture is also influenced by such an indicator as the shape of the structure. A high and narrow chute, made by yourself, allows individual particles of the solution to come closer together when transporting the mixture. But at the same time, it must be made deep enough so that the concrete does not overflow over the sides when passing through it.

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Manufacturing technology for concrete mix troughs

The principle of constructing a device for concrete is quite simple. It is made in the same way as foundation formwork. The structure consists of edged boards covered plastic film or linoleum. To make a gutter:

  1. Take edged board the established size and put together the structure in the shape of the letter P. At the same time, make the height of the sides large enough to avoid stagnation of the concrete mixture during transportation.
  2. The inner surface of the resulting structure must be made smooth. To do this, line the bottom of the gutter with linoleum, tin, or cover it with polyethylene. These materials will reduce the adhesion of concrete and wood.
  3. After making the gutter for pouring the foundation, it should be installed in the desired location and secured with supports. To make supports, it is enough to install 4 under the structure gas silicate block or scraps of timber.

Drainage trays are necessary in areas where rainfall occurs throughout the year. large number precipitation. They are also required in places with clay soil. Since the flow of water washes away the fertile layer, it is necessary to constantly renew it and bring in fresh black soil.

The drainage system allows you to quickly remove excess moisture from your site, without making any effort.

There are many ways to make the water drain as quickly as possible. The simplest way is to simply dig trenches in the ground with a slope of 30. But they will be washed away by moisture and collapse.

Therefore, the best solution would be one assembled from drainage trays. You can purchase them or make them yourself. Although their manufacture is associated with certain difficulties, this method allows you to save quite an impressive amount of money.

The optimal shape is semicircular. But making a concrete product of this shape is quite problematic. Therefore, most often they resort to the following method.

Photo: overall dimensions

From the smooth boards needed overall dimensions a structure in the shape of the letter “P” is knocked together. It is best to use wood with a thickness of at least 10 mm. Since it is on it that the entire load will fall when pouring concrete.

The design will look something like this. It is better to fasten individual shields together using metal corners, as this will significantly strengthen the structure.


Photo: formwork dimensions

After the formwork is ready, you can proceed to the second stage - preparing the molding part. It consists of a pipe of the required diameter sawn lengthwise. An important point is the smoothness of the outer surface. Since it is this that will form the inside of the tray.

You can also use plastic pipe, which is more preferable. For example, a sewer pipe, the diameter of which can vary within a very wide range - from 50 mm or more. Its surface is almost perfectly smooth and has no pores.

Photo: molding part
Photo: tray dimensions

After the preparatory operations are completed, you can proceed directly to the production of concrete trays. The resulting solution is simply poured into the formwork, and a pipe cut lengthwise is pressed into it from above.

It should be left in this state for about a day. After the hardening process has completed, you can disassemble the formwork and pick out the pipe.

Required materials

To make drainage trays with your own hands, you will need a number of different materials.

First of all, this is all that is needed to obtain waterproof and very durable concrete:

  • Portland cement M (PTs 400/D20);
  • fine crushed stone or expanded clay, the diameter of one particle should not be more than 10 mm;
  • reinforcing mesh or steel rods;
  • sand (fine-grained);

Portland cement grade M (PTs) 400/D20 has extremely high strength, which is very important - during removal from the formwork, the tray can simply break.

The number 400 means that this material Easily withstands loads of up to 400 kg. Also, cements with greater strength - 500 or 600 kg - are ideal for the manufacture of drainage trays.

This brand is characterized by increased resistance to moisture - this is precisely the decisive factor. It is also extremely frost-resistant.

That is, even with very large temperature changes, it will not collapse, and repairs to the drainage system will not be needed.

Photo: Portland cement grade M (PC) 400 D20

To reduce the amount of cement, you can slightly dilute it with crushed stone. This will reduce costs, since the cost of this building material relatively small. And make the tray more durable by reducing deforming forces and the number of microcracks.


Photo: crushed stone

Reinforcing mesh or steel rods are required to reinforce the product. Since they not only increase the strength of the structure, but also do not allow the tray to collapse when it is released from the formwork. This makes it possible to produce very long trays, spending less time on the process.


Photo: reinforcing mesh or steel rods for reinforcement

Sand is needed to prepare the solution. Since during its hardening various microcracks and deformations are formed. And sand allows the resulting product not to crumble under the influence of these forces.

Tools

To prepare a high-quality concrete mixture, you need to have a certain set of tools. To both manual and electric:

  • shovel and bayonet;
  • trowel;
  • scoop;
  • concrete mixer;
  • drill or hammer drill;
  • attachment – ​​mixer for a hammer drill;
  • wheelbarrow for transporting solution.

A bayonet and shovel will be needed to lay the mortar inside the formwork. A scoop will be needed to accurately measure the amount of sand or crushed stone. Trowel - for trimming the product while it has not yet hardened.

The solution itself can be mixed in several ways. The simplest, but at the same time labor-intensive, is to do it manually. Everything you need is poured into some container - for example, a large trough, and simply mixed with a shovel.

This process can be carried out much faster with the help of some auxiliary equipment. It can be a regular drill or a hammer drill. With a special attachment attached to it, which acts as a mini-mixer for concrete.

It will make it possible to mix the solution as efficiently as possible and make it uniform. A concrete mixer will also work well for this. The volume of the container for mixing the solution (trough or other) should be selected depending on the volume of work.

Schemes

Drainage systems on the site can be made according to a variety of schemes.

It is only important to follow a few rules:

  • the slope of each tray must be at least 30 relative to the total length of the line;
  • the number of turns and corners is minimal;
  • Moisture should flow away from the garden, and not towards it.

If you need to perform complex drainage in a garden where there are a large number of trees or other perennial plants, then the optimal way out of the situation would be a branched circuit. It looks like this:

A feature of this scheme is the presence of two outlets, that is, water will flow out of the site in two places.

Photo: diagram of complex drainage in the garden

It happens that the site has an uneven slope over its entire area. Then the drainage scheme will have a slightly different appearance - all slopes in it must correspond to the heights at different areas land plot.


Photo: typical diagram drainage

If the site has the same slope over its entire area, then you can use one of the most simple circuits drainage - linear. Several parallel channels are dug, all of them connecting at the point of lowest slope.

Photo: linear drainage diagram

Manufacturing process

The tray manufacturing process includes several stages:

  • preparing the mold for pouring (formwork and molding part - pipes);
  • laying the reinforcing part into molds;
  • filling forms.

Formwork is the most important part. The strength of the resulting product depends on how reliably and accurately it is made. It is best to use boards of small thickness to make it.

They must be fastened not only with nails, but also with crossbars made of wood or metal. The bottom and walls of the formwork must be laid with thick, especially durable polyethylene.


Photo: formwork

Mixing the solution must be carried out in compliance with the proportions. Only then will the resulting concrete product be strong enough. According to various GOSTs, optimal ratio cement, sand and crushed stone is 1:3:5. Water must be added in an amount sufficient to obtain a solution of the desired consistency.


Photo: mixing the solution

Reinforcement – important stage. The mesh or steel rods should be spaced a few centimeters apart in a vertical plane to increase the strength of the product.


Photo: reinforcement

The penultimate stage is pouring the formwork. This process is quite simple, but it is important to be as careful as possible. After it is completed, it is necessary to immediately place the forming element - the pipe - into the formwork. It gives the hardening solution the desired shape.

After the solution has hardened, the formwork can be disassembled and the pipe removed. As a result, the resulting tray should be rectangular, with an internal cavity of the required diameter.

It is important that inner part, through which water will subsequently flow, was as smooth as possible.


Photo: the inner part through which water will subsequently flow should be as smooth as possible

Step-by-step installation

The site is carried out in several stages. The simplest and at the same time time-consuming is preparing trenches for laying trays. When the trench is dug, it is advisable to partially fill its bottom with fine sand or crushed stone. This will allow you to easily adjust the slope if necessary.

This parameter is best measured using a level or a building level more than 1 m long.


Photo: preparing trenches for laying trays

After which you can proceed directly to laying the trays in already prepared trenches.

It is only important to maintain the required slope along the entire length of the drainage system. This will allow the water to flow down as quickly as possible without accumulating or stagnating.


Photo: trays stacked

The trays are stacked. Now they can be fastened using the same solution. He is mixed in required volume and using a pre-prepared trowel, it is smeared into the joints between the trays.

It is important to do this as carefully as possible, making the surface smooth and sloping. Otherwise, sand and various suspended matter will accumulate in these places.

Like making concrete trays for it, the process is not complicated, requiring only time and the necessary hand tools. By following all installation rules, you can forever save yourself from the problem of site flooding.

Video: installation of ASO Euroline (drainage trays)

The need to get rid of excess precipitation and its consequences has been known to people since ancient times. Drainage designs have changed and improved, starting this way from dug sewage pits to combined complex drainages made from modern materials.

Installing drainage drains is a common procedure these days to ensure that rainfall and melt water are drained from the surface.

Thanks to drainage systems, the foundation of the building is protected from destruction, water and dirt do not accumulate in the area adjacent to the house, the slopes are protected from landslides, and the aesthetic appearance and cleanliness are maintained.

Drainage trays occupy a central place in the entire drainage system; they can be made of polymer, concrete and plastic. Each type of drainage tray has its own advantages and disadvantages in use and installation, each installation has its own characteristic features.

are installed in stages in the following order:

  • a trench is prepared in accordance with the diagram in the place where the tray will be installed;
  • a concrete footing is made by laying concrete in even layers along the bottom of the trench;
  • plastic trays are located in the trench in the center;
  • the slopes are concreted to give the system stability.

They are connected to each other using the butt method. To do this, there is a tongue on one side of the tray, and a groove on the other. To significantly increase the warranty period of plastic trays, the joints are sealed.

They can be open or equipped with storm grates. Drainage trays with gratings prevent large debris from entering the drainage system and create optimal conditions for passing vehicles.

To attach the grid to the plastic tray, you must:

  • install the main fastening system into the tray by unscrewing the bolt from it;
  • attach the bolt to the puzzle located on the grid;
  • firmly fasten the bolt all the way, checking the reliability of installation;
  • The stamped grille is attached very easily: the locks located at the edges of the grille are bent, the grille is fixed into the tray.

To make a side connection, you need to make small hole in the side wall of the tray, connect the trays at right angles, seal and plug.

Advantages and disadvantages of plastic trays

The advantages of such trays are much greater than their disadvantages. The main advantages are:

  • throughput. Smooth walls are not covered with growths, to which debris can cling and accumulate over time;
  • durability, which is caused by resistance to stress, chemicals, temperature changes;
  • light weight, which facilitates transportation and installation of such a system;
  • several holes, which makes it possible to vary when connecting to a sewer pipe;
  • installation is so primitive that one person can handle it without special education or specific or expensive equipment;
  • Wide area of ​​application – from intensive areas with a large number pedestrians to small courtyard areas.

The disadvantages of plastic trays are:

  • unreliability at temperatures below zero. Plastic may burst in severe frost or due to the weight of passing traffic;
  • possible deformations over time due to different expansion coefficients of plastic and concrete. In addition, the plastic tray may fall out of the concrete trench over time;
  • Due to the lightness of plastic, it must be pressed when connecting to concrete, which requires additional effort.

Materials and tools

Materials for installing the plastic system:

Components that provide extensive rainwater runoff:

  • stamped grille;
  • cast iron grate;
  • rainwater inlet;
  • storm drain;
  • sand trap;
  • fasteners and plugs;
  • plastic adapter for creating a line of trays with different heights.

Tools:

  • concrete;
  • sealant;
  • saw with diamond blade;
  • hammer;
  • hacksaw;
  • shovel;
  • plastic trays in the required quantity.

To properly install a plastic drain, you need following materials(quantity depending on the length of the drain):

  • gutter;
  • 45 degree turns on pipes;
  • plugs;
  • funnels;
  • brackets;
  • connecting elements.

Tools for installation: hammer drill, grinder, screwdriver, marker, building level, knife.

Installation diagram


Photo: installation diagram of a plastic tray
Photo: diagram of the joining of plastic trays with a sand trap and sewer pipes

Step-by-step installation

You can install plastic drainage trays step by step as follows:

  • distribution and installation of brackets evenly 500-600mm from each other with a given slight slope, which will allow water not to overflow over the edges of the gutter, but to go into the pipe;
  • installation of water intake funnels. To do this, glue is applied to the end of the funnel and secured to the roof using brackets;
  • cutting a hole in the funnel using a hacksaw and attaching it to the plastic using special glue;
  • direct installation of a plastic gutter. It should be noted that it is better to make the first fastening under the pipe elbow at 45 degrees. Plastic gutters must be fixed from each other at a distance of approximately 50 cm, the slope of the gutters is 2-3 mm.

Many people assemble the entire drain on the ground, and then install it vertically on brackets. This requires at least two people and two ladders.

During assembly plastic drain yourself, it is better to assemble the drainage at the top, which is not difficult due to the lightness of plastic trays and other components.

The escape of water into the drainage system can flood the foundation of the house, so storm drainage is necessary.

Important! For quality work storm drainage requires a special list - these are trays for storm drainage, storm water inlets, a collector-water collector, a rainwater inlet well, a sorption filter.

The following steps are required:

  • install the drainpipe outlet to determine the location of the cast iron or. Use pegs to measure at the installation site;
  • for a rainwater inlet, you can use a pit or cheaply and simply make it yourself, the approximate dimensions of the inlet are 400x400, 600mm deep;
  • dig a channel for laying drainpipes;
  • dig a well to filter the flowing water. Recommended size 1000x1000mm, depth no more than a meter;
  • we lay the pipe, the end from the side of the pit should protrude by 60 mm, from the side of the well - by 500;
  • plastic or concreted. We construct wooden formwork, plug the pipe hole;
  • installation of the grille.
Photo: storm sewer installation

Installation of concrete trays

Concrete trays are installed in a ditch on a concrete base in asphalt, concrete or tiles. The thickness of concrete depends on the load class. The base is usually made of B25 concrete. The sides are fastened in the form of slopes.

The width of the slopes also depends on the load class. The correct deepening of concrete trays is checked as follows: after installation is completed extreme point on the grille should be 4 mm below the road point.

Concrete trays are connected to each other and sealed. If the drainage is connected at an angle, the concrete tray and grate are sawed.

If a concrete tray is installed in asphalt, it is recommended to cover the gratings with fiberboard. You cannot run over a concrete tray with a car.

When installing concrete trays, one must not forget about expansion joints. The connection of concrete trays is carried out through a sand trap using a 100-160mm pipe or using a vertical pipe installed at the bottom of the tray.

Important! When installing concrete trays, it is necessary to clean the system of debris and dirt annually.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of concrete trays are obvious - reliability and simplicity, special wear resistance. It should be noted that the scope of application of concrete trays is especially effective in Russia due to its special climatic conditions.

Concrete trays can withstand severe temperature overloads and retain their functionality. In addition, many concrete gutters and trays are resistant to various mechanical loads.

Modern concrete trays are made using a special vibration pressing method; metal inserts are added to improve the class of the product and increase its wear resistance.

Some products are made from fiber-reinforced concrete, concrete combined with fiberglass, the characteristics of which include increased impact resistance.

An important factor of concrete trays is their correct installation and competent scope of application. Yes, there are concrete trays general purpose, class C, cross-section 100, load up to twenty tons.

For the movement of freight transport, more powerful drainage is required; super-class concrete trays are made for it for maximum load.

The only drawback of the average concrete tray is its low impact strength, especially this characteristic has great value during transportation.

As mentioned above, for special type works produce especially strong concrete, trays from which are used on runways and in industry.

Thus, when installing a concrete tray, you need the help of a specialist who will help you understand the class of concrete required for a specific drainage and install it correctly.

Materials and tools

The tools required for installation are a hammer, a shovel, a hacksaw, and a hand saw with a diamond blade. Hand saw with a diamond blade will be needed for sawing iron gratings and concrete trays if the drainage channel is installed at an angle.

Installation materials - concrete trays, concrete, gratings, sealant, crushed stone, sand.

Installation diagram

Installation diagram of a concrete tray in asphalt


Photo: installation diagram of a concrete tray in asphalt

Installation diagram of a concrete tray in concrete


Photo: diagram of installing a concrete tray in concrete

Installation diagram of a concrete tray in tiles


Photo: installation diagram of a concrete tray in tiles

Step-by-step installation


Photo: sectional installation of a storm drain

To install concrete trays, you need to perform the following sequential steps:

  • According to the characteristics of the drainage system, its area, type of surface, as well as the amount of expected precipitation, a drainage system diagram is drawn up and models of drainage gutters and other materials are correctly selected. It should also be taken into account the degree physical activity, water composition (if the environment is too aggressive, the drainage is treated with a special chemical);
  • according to established scheme, trenches are prepared, where concrete trays are subsequently installed. For precise installation, it is recommended to use a marking cord. At the bottom of the trench you need to install a concrete backing measuring 10 cm. It should be noted that the width of the trench should be twice as large as the tray, and the depth is calculated so that after installation the storm grate is five centimeters below the surface;
  • Concrete trays are installed in the center of the trench and filled with concrete;
  • on installed trays gratings are attached.

Video: installation of concrete drainage trays

Installation prices

After spending comparative characteristics prices for installing drainage trays, an approximate table of prices in the Russian Federation has been compiled for demolition, turnkey installation, individual species works To find out the exact price, you need to know the specific scope of work and the company that will carry out the order.

Thus, the rich assortment offered modern market, allows inexpensive installation drainage trays of varying complexity depending on the required drainage.

The installation design of the trays is simple for anyone, even those not initiated into the art of installation. The service life of drainage trays is so long, and the costs are so meager that preference is always given to a system of drainage trays.



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